Yet many woman are convinced they can't wear a longer jacket to crotch length.  It's drummed in her dear little ear that it "cuts you in half!"  As a result, short jackets reveal tummy, bottom, and side thigh bulges.  Historically, it's women who have huge hang-ups about the shape of their bodies.

Let's take a lesson from the guys, girls.  The longer length will camouflage tummy, bottom, and side thigh bulges beautifully, helping give the illusion of a more ideal body.  When it comes to looking terrific, good fit in our clothing is a key factor.  Standards of good fit are essentially the same for men and women. 

The following set of guidelines serve as a short-course in recognizing good fit in all of your clothes.  Get them in mind and get only the clothes that fit you well. 

Guidelines for a Fabulous Fit 

by Judith Rasband © 1992-2011 Judith Rasband, Conselle

Necklines should fit the curve around the base of the neck, unless designed to do other-

wise, without cutting into the neck, wrinkling or gapping.  A wide or lowered neckline should 

lie flat and snug to the body.

Collars should fit the neck comfortably snug unless designed to do otherwise.  When  

buttoned at the neck, one finger should fit easily into a shirt collar.  A suit collar should  

reveal 1/2" of a shirt collar at center back. Lapels should lie flat without gapping open. 

Shoulder Seams should lie on top of the shoulder, appear to bisect the neck and shoulder, 

and end at the shoulder joint unless designed to do otherwise.  Shoulder pads should be 

well placed, appear natural, not too large or lumpy.   

Armscye (Armhole) Seamline should cross the shoulder at the shoulder joint (end of the  

collar bone) unless designed to do otherwise.  The seamline will appear in line with the back 

arm crease.  A jacket may extend 1/2" to 1" beyond the shoulder joint and a coat 1" to  

1 1/2" beyond. 

Upper Back areas should lie smooth, without wrinkles or strain at the armscye seam when  

arms are forward.  There should be no horizontal wrinkle, bubble, or bulge below the collar. 

Darts should point toward and end about 1" before the fullest part of the body curve being  

fitted, with no wrinkles or bubble at the dart tip. The larger the curve, the larger the dart  

should be and vice-versa. 

Center Front and Back Seams should be centered on the body and fall straight down  

perpendicular to the floor. 

Closures should hang straight and smooth, without wrinkles or gapping across the chest,  

bust, back, abdomen or hip area. 

Side Seams should extend from the center of the underarm to the floor and fall straight  

down perpendicular to the floor.  They should appear to intersect the waistline at 90  

degree angles. 

Lengthwise Grain (vertical fabric thread) should be perpendicular to the floor at center  

front and back unless fabric is cut on the bias (diagonal grain). 

Crosswise Grain (horizontal fabric threads) should be parallel to the floor at the chest,  

upper back, hip, and hem unless cut on the bias (diagonal grain). 

Sleeve Caps should look round and smooth, without puckers or wrinkles. 

Sleeves should be large enough to lie smooth around the arm with about 1 1/2" ease.  One  

finger should fit easily under short sleeve hem.  Ease at the elbow should be sufficient to 

allow the arm to bend without binding.  Elbow darts or fullness should be centered over the 

end of the bone when the arm is bent. 

Short Sleeve Length should appear attractive in relation to the chest or bust. 

Long Sleeve Length should end at the wrist bone when the arm is bent.  The shirt sleeve  

cuff should show 1/2" below a jacket sleeve.  Pockets should lie closed and smooth against  

the body unless styled to extend away. 

Waistbands and waisted dresses should fit comfortably snug at the natural waistline when  

standing, yet remain comfortable when sitting.  Two fingers should slip easily into the waist- 

band. 

Gathers should be tiny and evenly spaced, with no bulges or spaces.  They should fall  

straight down or radiate evenly from a seamline. 

Vents, Slits, Pleats and Tucks should lie flat, closed, and smooth against the body.  They  

should hang straight and closed when the person is standing, opening only with movement. 

Jackets should fit loosely enough to ease comfortably over a shirt, blouse or sweater.  Suit  

jackets and sport coats should cover the seat of men's slacks.  Jackets should not pull tight  

around the abdomen or hips when fastened. 

Coats should fit loosely enough to ease comfortably over a jacket or suit worn underneath. 

Skirts should fit loosely enough for fabric to relax and lie smooth on the body.  There  

should be a 1" to 2" ease on each side -- you can "pinch an inch" on each side.  There  

should be no horizontal fold around the waist or below the waist at center back.  Skirts  

should fall straight down below the abdomen and hipline, not cup under the stomach, thighs  

or behind. 

Slacks should fit smoothly over the abdomen, behind and thighs, with adequate seat fullness  

and crotch length.  Slacks should not hang below or cut up into the crotch area.  There  

should be no wrinkles that radiate from the crotch area.  There should be no horizontal fold  

around the waist or below the waist at center back.  Linings should fit smoothly and comfortably  

loose. 

Hems should be even all around and parallel to the floor, unless designed to do otherwise. 

Skirt Hems should not cross at the widest part of the calf.  Classic skirt length is 2" to 2 1/2"  

below the center of the knee.  Lengths longer or shorter should flatter the entire figure. 

Slack Hems should brush the top of the shoe in front, the heel in back or taper slightly lower  

in back, unless designed to do otherwise.  Coat Hems should cover or fall about 1" lon- 

ger than skirts. 

Hint: 

• Tight horizontal wrinkles mean the garment is too small around the body. 
• Tight vertical wrinkles mean the garment is too short on the body. 
• Diagonal wrinkles indicate the garment is too small for the body curve above the wrinkles. 
• Loose vertical wrinkles mean the garment is too large around the body.

Note: The appearance of a well-fitted but less flattering style may be improved by layering  

with another piece of clothing in a more flattering style. 

For more information on fashion style selection, fitting, alteration, and the art of dress, send for the  

books Fabulous Fit by Judith Rasband, and Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach by Judith Rasband, Elizabeth Liechty and Della Pottberg. 

© Copyright 1992-2013 Judith Rasband, Conselle

To read more information about wardrobe classics and shape as applied to dress and grooming, with instructions and examples regarding people just like you, order Conselle's wardrobe strategy Book #4 Classics & Shape at $27.97.   You'll find charts that will summarize the information and simplify your learning and application.  Order through Conselle's Store or call 801-224-1207 and order directly through Kathy.  Order Classics & Shape here!  

When I teach Image Management, I teach you to buy into the classics, rely on the classics, look sharp in the classics.  But what are classic clothes and how do we recognize them?  What's the difference between a classic, a trend, and a fad?  Ask any fashion retailer, fashion writer or reporter to define a "classic" and they will tell you, "It's always in style.  It's timeless."  Nope.  Those are benefits, not a definition.  They don't tell you how to recognize a classic. 

• A Fad is extreme or shocking to some degree, doesn't meet the needs of real people in real life, and is fun for a few months at most.  An example of a fad is the bubble skirt.
• A Trend comes on strong, still a bit extreme it's not for everyone, but sticks around for a few years.  An example of a trend is cropped pants.
• A Classic, however, you can learn to recognize because it is not extreme in design lines and shapes.  It's not very wide or very big, very long or very short, very tight or very revealing, and so forth.  An example of a classic is a broomstick skirt. 

Because just about every body can wear the classics, they stick around, available over the decades.  Classic styling changes very slowly and only slightly.  Fashion forward classics can become more fashionable at one time or another, such as  ¾ length sleeves and sweater sets.  Buy your core wardrobe pieces in classic styles--jacket, skirt and/or pant, shirt, sweater and/or vest.  Update your look with a touch of the trendy.  Wear the trends hard, wear them out, and be on the lookout for the next trend that works well with your lifestyle and personal style.

Recently I received another Spring fashion update put out by an image consultant which included photos of some of the outfits put together for a variety of clients.  I was surprised -- and disappointed.  The clothes were classic, but the outfits were so plain and boring--solid color shirt and pants, solid color cardigan sweater and skirt, but that was it.  There was no creativity, no finesse or pizzazz, nothing finished about the outfits.  Anyone could have put these outfits together -- no need to pay a professional for these ultra basic looks.  

As image professionals, we need to offer something a bit out of the ordinary -- something perfect for the client but something the client wouldn't likely think of.  When we hear the client say, "Oh-h-h, I'd never have thought of that," we know we just earned our money.  

Classics don't need to look so conservative that they become boring.  Include a perfect pattern in some of the outfits.  Layer lightweight fabrics in an unusual way.  Finish the outfits with unique or updated accessories, always with one dominant focal point in the outfit -- remember my Fashion Rule of ONE.  Make sure your work delivers something out of the ordinary, an investment in perfect harmony with your client.

Next Session:

May 6 - 11, 2013