Makeover My Mom: Vivian (Photo: Kristin Burns). The "after" is certainly a nice dressy look, but that thigh bump is distracting. We need a little ease in the fit of that skirt.

I've written on this topic for decades, beginning with style selection, fitting, and alterations textbooks that came out of my years in the college classroom with students.  During this time, I became acutely aware of the pain most women allow themselves to feel as they compare themselves with a so-called "ideal."  Lately it's all the "Before" and "After" photos we're seeing in makeover magazines, books, and television shows.  But we've got to recognize that most of those photos are "doctored."  In the "Before" photo the posture is slumped with the tummy allowed to protrude.  In the "After," the model stands tall, sucks it all in, and smiles.  If we'd all do that we'd all look and feel a whole lot better! The What Not To Wear authors are guilty of this charade also.  

Another book out there asserts that the most common figure is the ideal.  Not so.  No way.  Truth of the matter is, most of us have some figure variations from the so-called "ideal."  And some of those figure variations come in typical combinations we see so often that we tend to recognize their shape.  We call them figure types and body types or shapes.  Many people recognize only two figure types, the "pear" and the "apple."  Does the entire world population fit into only two body types?  Of course not.  So, I often ask, where do we go from there, to include bananas and artichokes?  I don't think so, although I actually did find a system on the internet that refers to the pear, the apple, and the banana.  Good luck with that one.

The author of the HOAX system of body typing recognized four figure types, the rectangle, the oval, the triangle, and the hour-glass.  But that's still not enough.  The author of the Pocket Stylist claims to identify six body types, but in reality only deals with three types: the triangle, rectangle, and hour-glass.  The first set of three are average in weight and the second set of three are plus sizes of the same shapes.  Talk about confusing.

At Conselle we work with eight distinct figure types for women.  They include a generally ideal figure and seven more as illustrated below. 

Keep in mind that men's bodies come in most of the same shapes, except the feminine ideal and the hour-glass which depend on a full bust curve.  To select clothing that accommodates and flatters your figure, you first need to recognize what figure type you're living in-or combination of types. 

The ideal figure types (women only), though rare, are average in weight, appearing similar in width in the shoulders and hips, with a medium bust size and small waist.

The triangle figure types are narrower in the shoulders and wider in the hips-thigh area. They are often smaller in the bust or chest and waist, narrower in the back, and rounder in the buttocks-generally straighter body lines above the waist and curved lines below.

The inverted triangle figure types are wider in the shoulders and narrower in the hips-thigh area. They are generally larger in the bust or chest, wider in the back, and flatter in the buttocks-generally curved lines above the waist and straighter body lines below. This tends to be considered the ideal body type in men.

The rectangle figure types are average to above average weight range for their height. They are similar in width in the shoulders, waist, and hips-thigh area. They have little to no defined waist curve or indentation.

The hour-glass figure types (women only) have full-rounded body lines, with proportionally large bust, hips, and buttocks and a proportionally small waist.  This may be considered the feminine ideal by some, but it presents real fitting problems.

The diamond figure types are much wider in the midriff and waist area, narrower in the shoulders and hips-thigh area with a high hip curve and slim legs. The bust or chest  and buttocks size varies, but is often smaller.

The tubular figure types are slim to thin and below average weight range for their height, with generally straight body lines and bony angles. They generally have few obvious curves.

The oval or rounded figure types are generally above the average weight range for their height. Being larger throughout the figure, body lines are full-rounded curves, generally with a wider back and waist.  (Do not mistake a full-figured triangle, inverted-triangle, rectangle or hour-glass figure for a rounded figure.)

After learning these 8 figure types, I often hear people recognize one figure variation from this figure type, and one variation from another, "So what am I?"  That's easy.  They're a combination of figure types, such as the "rectangular triangle" or the "rectangular hour-glass," women who have added weight through the mid-section of the body.  It's very common.  With all of the breast implants today, we now have tubular hour-glasses, with fitting problems nobody bothered to warn them about.

So, get yourself in front of a full-length mirror in underwear only and look for cues from the descriptions above to figure out what figure type you're living in.  Once you know that, the next step is easy for some.  Simply find clothing styles that most nearly repeat your own figure type or shape.  That's what I call "Quick Fit."  The triangular shaped outfit accommodates the triangle figure type.  The inverted triangular shaped outfit accommodates the inverted triangle figure type.  The rectangular shaped outfit accommodates the rectangle figure type.  From there it's not quite so easy.

Contrary to popular opinion, the hour-glass figure is not the ideal.  For women with a double-D cup bust curve, most clothing doesn't fit because it's been designed for a B-cup bust.  For a  solution to this fitting problem see the Timeless Truth segment below.

The diamond figure or body type is difficult to fit because there are no real diamond-shaped clothes to choose from.  For women, the closest we come to fullness through the middle is the blouson clothing style.  Another option is often the inverted triangle shaped dress.

Believe it or not, the tubular figure presents its own set of fitting problems, including finding clothing that fits.  To prevent them from looking "skinny," the main thing here is to fill the figure out with soft curved silhouettes, layered looks, and/or softer yet thicker fabrics.

Like the diamond, there are no really rounded garment shapes that flatter the larger oval figure type.  Triangle and rectangle shaped outfits present the best options for a flattering fit.  See Timeless Truths for points about "Smart Fit."

There is more to be said, but this is a start to get you thinking about what shape you're living in.  If you're still not sure after a session in front of the mirror, have a friend take your full-length photo in a swimsuit and send it to me for a virtual figure evaluation.  If you're in Utah, call and book a Fit and Fashion Clinic for a complete figure evaluation. 

If you'd like the whole discussion of Shape in Design strategies, order Conselle's wardrobe strategy book #4 Shape at $27.97.  You might also consider Fabulous Fit or the advanced Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach.  Order through Conselle's Store or call 801-224-1207 and order directly through Kathy or Sarah.   

Order Shape here!  

Clothing comes in specific types of shapes, just like figures.  The triangle shaped garment is the very easiest of all clothing shapes for women to wear.  Visualize a light weight flared skirt, fitting the waist and flaring outward below.  This automatically creates the illusion of a narrower waistline.  Add flat-lying elastic in the back of the waistband and you've got an easy and very comfortable fit.  Below the waist the flared skirt skims easily over the tummy, hips, thighs, and behind.  If the flared skirt is cut on the bias angle, the folds of fabric ripple beautifully.  A flared shirt-waist dress is a favorite for virtually all figure types. 

Don't buy into the thoughtless idea that no woman ought to wear a rectangular shaped shift dress on the grounds that you should always show off a waistline.  Not everybody has a waistline they want to show off.  A rectangular shaped dress fitted at the shoulder skims easily over the wider waist of a rectangular figure.  It's an easy "Quick Fit."  Wear it loose and care-free, or belt and blouse it.  Blousing above the waist creates the illusion of narrowness in the waist and hip below.  Layer with a vest or jacket when you like and no one has a clue what your waist width is, but you've got comfort and style!  Going further, look for tops that move out the shoulder seam a little further and insert a moderate sized shoulder pad.  The added width at the creates the illusion of a slimmer waistline.  Now that's a "Smart "Fit!"

Added width at the shoulder to accommodate a shoulder pad also accommodates a fuller bust area, regardless of what figure type you're living in, be it a triangle, rectangle, or an hour-glass figure type.  You've got options! 

Granted there are many more figure or body variations that require attention.  My co-author, Elizabeth Liechty, and I have identified some 89 figure variations.  Many of these figure variations require minor to major alterations for clothing to fit well.  I highly recommend that you invest in the book Fabulous Fit for style selection and alterations instructions dealing with 60 figure variations.  

If you provide custom fitted clothing, you may want the more comprehensive reference book Fitting and Pattern Alteration dealing with all 89 variations.  Align yourself with a custom fitter, tailor, or alterations specialist and acquaint them with the newer methods provided in the books.  

Conselle Educational-Training for Image Consultants

Courtesy of Spanx

While women may groan at the idea of an outdated "girdle," do become aware of the new "shapewear" underwear available to compact and smooth your silhouette.  Stores and catalogs carry an inviting variety to choose from with Spanx being a popular brand among women. 

But don't forget the simplicity of wearing a slip under fitted clothes. The silky surface allows fabric to skim more easily over your shape.  Remember, we want the clothing silhouette to be dominant and the body silhouette to be subordinate. 

We can all look terrific in well-fitted clothing with a little ease throughout.  It works!