June 2011 Newsletter - Fabric and Texture in Design

Newsletter Header with Judith Rasband and Conselle Seal

Conselle Fashion & Image Newsletter

From Image Expert, Judith Rasband, AICI CIM 

Greetings!   

It's a grand field I work in.  This was so very evident at the recent Association of Image Consultants International annual conference I attended.  It was an amazing event and so reaffirming regarding the global nature of this image management work I do.  Gathered in Orlando, Florida, fully half of the attendees were from foreign countries.  The efforts they put forth to attend are humbling.  

AICI Convention Gala
At the AICI Convention Gala with Caterina Rando, Sangheeta Bahl, and Joyce Knudsen

I am grateful to be a part of such a dedicated association of image professionals.  The rapport among the membership was outstanding.  Several things occurred to bring this about.  Noteworthy was the keynote speaker, Helice "Sparky" Bridges.  Author Jack Canfield said about Sparky, "Her powerful "Who I am Makes A Difference" acknowledgment system gives children and adults of all ages the long overdue right to be appreciated, respected, loved, and nurtured by the society in which they live."  This message made everyone feel very appreciative of each other and the bond we share in our profession.  I bought her small book, "Who I Am Makes A Difference" and plan to read it during my family vacation, sharing her message and method with my family.  I recommend it to you and yours.

 

June's Newsletter topic deals with Conselle's Wardrobe Strategy # 6, all about Fabric and Texture in Clothing Selection and Coordination.  The book content reminds us to choose fabrics with textural characteristics that meet our needs or purposes.  Fabrics must be in harmony with our lifestyle, values, personality, figure or body type, and personal coloring, as well as with one another. Hence, this month's featured article about coordinating fabric textures.  I hope you find in it some value for you and your family.

 

For those new to our newsletter, at Conselle we work with a complete set of 12 wardrobe strategies. Each wardrobe strategy is independent, yet each strategy builds on the others, much like the pieces of a puzzle working toward the whole. Each month I'll focus on a specific wardrobe strategy within the Featured Article. Other Newsletter sections will dip into timely topics with applied meaning for you. With limited space, I'll try to choose my words carefully to suggest a range of options available to meet your individual needs.

 
Sincerely,   

Judith
In June's Issue
Fabric and Texture in Design
Timeless Truth
Consumer Corner
Consultant's Corner
Dress Slim

Ask Judi

Judith Rasband

If you have an image issue that is getting in the way of accomplishing your goals, email me about it at judith@conselle.com. I'll do my best to get back to you with a solution that will help move you forward. Please include a contact phone number in case the answer is a bit long, so we can really talk it through.

Newsletter Archives
Featured Article - Fabric & Texture in Design

 

Color Separated Closet
Color grouped closet

I'll never forget the woman who called me from California asking me if I'd come there to make sense of her closet.  "You buy the plane ticket and I'd be delighted to come," I told her.  She did and I went.  She had told me she had a lot of clothes.  Well, that was an understatement.  I teach about a closet being a "small room."  Well this closet was a big, big room!  There was some sense to the way her clothes were neatly hung according to color on racks all around the room, just not good sense.  The variety of reds didn't go with one another.  The blues, greens, and purple fought a battle royal, and so on around the room. 

 

In this arrangement, my client couldn't figure out which clothes went with which, and no wonder.  All the reds together combined winter-weight wool gabardine with summer-weight eyelet.  Among the blues there was casual cotton corduroy mixed in with dressy silk satin.  Throughout the color groups there was assertive, weighty wool serge mixed in with approachable, lightweight cotton knits, romantic velvet, and sporty seersucker.  There were sexy sheers hung next to fleece, flannel, tapestry, and tweed.  Linen looked totally out of place next to dotted Swiss and suedecloth, not to mention hopsacking next to chiffon and crepe de chine. 

 

It took me two full days to sort and coordinate the clothes into meaningful clusters and single outfits, all the while teaching my client that within any one cluster or outfit, the textures must work together.  But what does that mean?  Most people don't really know.  To work together means that to appear in harmony with one another, one texture must be dominant and all other textures must be subordinate.  It means that the winter-weight wool gabardine overpowered and clashed with the summer-weight eyelet.  The two communicate opposite moods and feelings.  Corduroy and satin together communicate mixed messages.  Satin and seersucker together make absolutely no sense.

 

My client had been totally overwhelmed by the visual noise screaming loud and clear from all around the room, and no wonder.  Making sense of her closet meant sorting the style lines and shapes, colors, textures, and patterns into outfits that communicated one mood and message; into clusters that communicated one personal style type according to at-home, business, or evening occasions.  To un-mix the fabric textures was the key to the initial sort.  This my client learned to see for herself, and what an experience in fashion styling it was!

 

Nygard Report for Duty
This cluster of clothes has a fascinating mix of all-season and summer-weight textures. 

 

I was reminded of this past experience again this week, seeing a woman attempting to look trendy wearing a winter wool cardigan sweater over a delicately tiered lace skirt.  Worn with layered necklaces and a fancy flower in her hair, the look was just too much to look at.  Here we go again, "Two busies don't work!"  (See February Newsletter, Consumer's Corner.)  This means that one texture must appear dominant or more important, and all other textures must appear subordinate or less important, attracting less attention to themselves.  The winter wool cardigan becomes subordinate working with dominant wool tweed or gabardine.  The lace becomes dominant working with a subordinate smooth silky blouse.  It works!

 

Read further for more points about personal clothing fabric selection and if you'd like the whole discussion of Fabric and Texture in Clothing Selection and Coordination strategies, order Conselle's Wardrobe Strategy Book #6 Fabric and Texture at $27.97. 

 

Order through Conselle's Store or call 801-224-1207 and order directly through Kathy or Sarah.  

 

 Order Fabric and Texture here!   

Timeless Truth

Fabric Care InstructionsRely on all-season, light-to-medium weight fabrics you can wear comfortably during 9 months out of the year.  Choose all-season fabrics made from natural fibers and from high-quality blends of natural and man-made fibers-generally with no more than 35% man-made fibers as listed on the label.  Blends combine the good looks and absorbency of a natural fiber with the easy care properties of a man-made fiber, often at lower cost.  

All-season, medium-weight fabrics include broadcloth, chambray, narrow pinwale corduroy, crepe, challis, chino, denim, silk noil, tropical weight gabardine, and jersey knits.

Consumer's Corner

 

Tight t-shirt outside bust curveTexture certainly creates illusions about size and shape of body. Heavier weight, thicker fabrics and furs will increase apparent size.   Medium weight fabrics tend to decrease apparent size.  Light weight fabrics are another matter as they tend to reveal the body beneath.  The worst are T-shirt knits!  Without enough ease in the fit, T-shirts drag over the body revealing every bulge in a most unflattering way.  Select your
T-shirts in a size larger because they're going to shrink with washing.  Wash on cool and dry on delicate.  Snap into shape and hang smoothly.  If your body reveals a bra, midriff, or belly bump, layer tees with a good-looking shirt jac worn open for a slimming center front line.  If you're full-busted, opt for a woven shirt, still with enough ease, and look 100% better.  

 

As we can see at right, tight fit puts too much attention at the bust line, making it distracting for professional or leadership roles. 

 

Below is a perfect example of the bra bump from the back. 

 

 Bra bump

Consultant's Corner  
Fabric Burn Test
A safe way to conduct a fabric burn test

Once in a while a fabric may be incorrectly mis-labeled.  During our last Fabulous Fit Retreat, one participant brought in a piece of fabric labeled "100% Wool."  Holding the fabric, it just didn't feel right, I was sure.  Still, there was the label.  The only way for us to be sure, influencing our treatment and care of the fabric, was to carry out a "burn test."  Holding a little piece of the fabric over the sink, I lit a match and held it under the fabric.  Wool would have curled away from the flame and burned slowly if at all.  Instead, the fabric immediately melted and shriveled into a hard, round, black plastic ball with a faintly sweet smell.  No wool there!  Pure polyester, a man-made fiber.  Wash and press on low heat only.  While it isn't needed often, when you need it, the burn test works.  For a burn chart, see Fabric and Texture in Clothing Selection and Coordination.  

Tips for a Fabulous Fit -- Dress Slim
Slinky acetate

This one is a no-brainer.  Try out "slinky" knits for  all-season core clothing pieces of in a cluster.  Slinky is blend of acetate and spandex.  It is a weighty, but not bulky fabric.  Its weight causes the fabric to hang vertically and visually slim the figure.  Admittedly, I look like a beached whale wearing cotton or wool flannel skirts, pants, or jackets, but seem 30 pounds slimmer in slinky!  Look for slinky clothes at Chico's, department stores, even Walmart and Target.  Don't over-wash and dry.  Brush or use a little water to remove a spot.  

 

Slinky is known to stretch a little longer over time and may need to be re-hemmed.  If you're not up on sewing skills, take your slinky to an alterations specialist.  It's worth the effort.  

Photo c/o Chico's

In Closing, it's been a great month with many good experiences.  I've crossed a lot off my "to do" list.  I've participated in some amazing discussions with our latest Educational-Training group.  I've been privileged to speak to local business and community groups regarding the need for more positive self-presentation and civility in the workplace and in the community.  If you are interested in these topics for a group you belong to, do get in touch.  I'd be delighted to work with you. 

 

Sincerely,

 

Judith Rasband

Conselle Institute of Image Management

801-224-1207

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