Hemlines are likely the most variable style line in women's fashion, driving many to total confusion.  Historically, hemlines have varied between floor-length to ankle-length for centuries, rising to just below the calf and mid-calf during World War I with the increase in working women needing more practical lengths.  By the 1920s, knee-length flapper looks typified the (slightly rebellious) modern woman.  Looking back we see that hemlines rose from floor-length to knee-length in just 15 years.  Imagine the cultural shock that set off!  From the 20s through the 70s, most women felt compelled to wear whatever the style of the day dictated.  Today, due to mass media and global migration or travel, hemlines range in from floor-length to hip high, often determined by religious values and/or economic conditions as well as current trends.  

Should hemlines be long or short?  Is there a proper length for hems?  Tell me please, how many inches from the floor should I hem my skirt?  My answers in short are No, No, No -- I won't tell you in inches.  Leg lengths vary too much in proportion to total body height to rely on such an arbitrary guideline as 14, 16, or 18 inches from the floor.  Your choice in hem length depends on too many factors:

• The age and weight of the woman
• The size and shape of the leg
• The style lines and shape of the skirt
• The weight and drape of the fabric
• The style and height of the shoe
• The occasion 

Today we'll explore the various skirt lengths that are available to you and discuss which work best for different occasions.  It's difficult to find photos of exactly what we want to show, but we hope the following images will give you a general idea. 

Currently new and popular is the so-called "high-low" or "hi-lo" hemline, significantly higher in the front and tapered lower in the back, ankle to floor-length.  The back of the skirt serves to frame the legs.  Legs need to have a shapely thigh, calf and ankle, not thick.

Classic skirt lengths are middle of the knee and two inches below the middle of the knee, where the calf indents or curves back inward.  These lengths tend to be the most attractive for most women.  They are standard for business and leadership roles. 

 

Fashion lengths are above the knee and below the calf.  Hemmed one inch above the knee requires attractive knees.  This length In pants we is called them Bermuda shorts.  Dimpled, wrinkled, or boney knees, knock knees or bowed legs are more attractive hemmed below the knees.

Mid-thigh length and higher are called miniskirts or shorts, appropriate only for social and some sports occasions.   In miniskirts or hot pants hemmed near or at the top of the thigh, you cannot bend over or sit modestly.  The look attracts undue attention and is inappropriately provocative for the workplace.

Just below the calf expose the lower leg and ankle so this length tends to be attractive for most women and is also appropriate for business and leadership.  This is the most attractive length if calves are flat and ankles are slim.  Cropped or Capri pants are generally most attractive hemmed below the curve of the calf. 

Contrary to popular belief, shorter petite women can wear skirts hemmed just below the calf.  When you think about it, it makes sense that longer legs require longer skirts and shorter legs require shorter skirts.  The key is that they are hemmed in the same location on the leg--just under the calf.  Making it work for petites requires lighter-weight fabric and a noticeable focal point in the neckline or collar area to lift to the look. 

Handkerchief hemmed skirts are angled unevenly, in a zig-zag manner above or below the calf. 

They are certainly interesting and more creative or relaxed in mood and feeling for more social occasions.

Mid-calf length is generally unattractive as it hits at the widest part of the calf.  The look is perceived as dumpy or dowdy, particularly if the ankles are wide.  The beige flared skirt example is quite flattering for the mid-calf because it's flared and not straight -- a flared skirt at the mid-calf will be more flattering on the majority of body types than a straight pencil skirt.

Ankle length or maxi skirts are flattering if you have slim ankles.  It is appropriate for formal day and evening occasions [many people are wearing them for everyday occasions as well as an alternative to pants or jeans, so it's not just formal occasions].  Ankle length straight or pencil skirts can appear very stiff and severe even for business, generally overpowering the person. Opt for a flared or peasant skirt instead.

Floor length gowns extend to the floor without actually touching or dragging.  Like the hem of pants, slacks, or trousers, they should touch the top of your foot, smoothly covering the entire instep.  The back hem may be even or about ¼ to ½ inch longer.  This allows for ease in walking without tripping on the fabric.  Low, medium, or high heeled shoes will effect the finished position of the hem.  Floor-length hemlines are appropriate for formal evening occasions.  When walking up or down stairs, lift the skirt slightly to prevent tripping on it.  For ease in walking, longer straight skirts require a slit or kick pleat in back.  Evening and wedding gowns may have a fish-tail hem or train flowing behind that actually dragging on the floor which require caution when walking. 

Based on where you're going, what you're doing, who is going to see you, and what you want to accomplish, you can choose the skirt length that will help you to achieve your goals. Remember, clothing is a resource to help you achieve your goals!

To read more information about wardrobe basics and line as applied to dress and grooming, with instructions and examples regarding people just like you, order Conselle's Wardrobe Strategy Book #3 Basics & Line at $27.97.   You'll find charts that will summarize the information and simplify your learning and application.  Order through Conselle's Store or call 801-224-1207 and order directly through Kathy.  Order Basics & Line here!  

Here's a little exercise that allows you to compare the look of different hemlines and choose the most attractive levels on your body.  Stand in bare feet in front of a full-length mirror-either at home or in a clothing store.

• Hold a longer straight-style skirt low on your leg, exposing only your ankle.  (You could also use a large scarf, towel, sheet, or length of fabric.)
• Slowly raise the skirt, exposing more of your lower leg, stopping below the calf and assessing the look.  Move the skirt up to mid-calf level and note the widening effect on the leg. 
• Next, move the skirt up to a position about 2 inches below the middle of your knee, on a level with the indentation above the calf.  This is generally a flattering length.  If the calf is very full, under the calf may be a more flattering look for you. 
• Begin raising the skirt again, stopping at a position level with the middle of your knee and assess the appearance.  Lift to one inch above your knee, and so on. 
• Once you identify the most flattering skirt lengths on your leg, use a measuring tape to measure the most attractive short, classic, and longer lengths from the waist, allowing you a variety of skirt lengths for more variety in the looks of your wardrobe. 

You are wise to align yourself with a tailor or alteration specialist since you're going to need one when working with your clients.  Nine times out of ten, ready-to-wear pants will be too long, and the tenth time they will be too short.  If you can't locate a tailor, go online to the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals and check the membership listing for professionals in your area.  Whether it is a dress, skirt, pants, jacket, or coat hemline, don't let the hem be cut so narrow that necessary weight for a finished looking hem is lost--or that it can't be let out at a later time.  2 to 2 1/2 inches is the norm for straight hanging hems.  From there, the fuller the flare, the narrower the hem has to be in order to ease in and lie smooth. 

When making alterations, remember you can nearly always take up a hem, but you can't always let one down.  Tiny tell-tale holes often mark the position of a previous hem in velvet, jersey, and leather.  Crease lines are another giveaway, but may often be removed with a solution of vinegar and water lightly sprayed over the surface during pressing. 

If you find your client has a pair of pants that are are too short at the ankle, high-water pants or "floods" as they are called, you may have to make it work until the client can afford new pants.  Some solutions in the meantime are to match the shoes and stockings to the color of the pants.  The color is carried down and hemlines appear longer.  This also works quite well if the skirt is too short to cover the top of winter dress boots.  Keep in mind that in contrasting colored stockings, the hemline may appear even shorter as the color contrast visually pushes them apart.  

Next Session:

May 6 - 11, 2013