Approximately 80 species of whales roam the world's oceans and seas, and about one third of them spend time in the nourishing warm waters of the Sea of Cortez, as permanent residents like the fin and sperm whales. A good many of the rest of the species at least drop by the southern entrance to the middle of the Sea during their migration in search of mates and to enjoy the variety of foods that live here.

Do you think human mammals travel great distances for the extended enjoyment of a refreshing sea and oh so pleasant weather (plus the dozens of other intrinsic amenities particular to our little slice of paradise by the peaceful sea)?  Consider our mammoth marine mammals who, by instinct developed over a period of 50 million years, travel tens of thousands of miles each and every year-with no vehicle other than shear personal energy-oh, and without stopping for a single meal during the grueling trip from the near freezing arctic waters  to the kinder blue Sea of Cortez, many of whom sing their own original love songs all the way and in such a deep resonance as to be heard (and felt) for up to 20 miles around. When you're traveling that far to meet a mate, it stands to reason that you can't start announcing your intentions too early, eh?

If we gave trophies for the mammalian winter visitor traveling the furthest to enjoy our glistening sea, the Humpback Whale takes it flippers down. Humpbacks at around 15 meters long and weighing in at 25 to 30 tons migrate round trip from the northern  Polar regions to as far south as Cape Horn each year in search of a mate.  Fortunately for us, the humpback whale seems to have a lot of fun swimming up the Sea of Cortez to our calm waters near Puerto Peñasco. In the last few years we've seen more and more of them coming in closer to the inhabited beaches-so close, in fact, that it's not rare that you can photograph them from your balcony!

Only a few years ago, we had to go out 10 to 15 miles to catch a glimpse of humpbacks and fins frolicking freely across the sea surface. Last year and this year, as these photos reveal,  they are within plain sight of Sandy Beach. And what an exciting sight it is!

You can recognize a humpback right away because it lifts its wide heart-shaped tail (called a "fluke") straight up into the air as it dives. But how it gets its name is from the hump shape it makes with its back as it prepares to dive, as shown in these up close and personal shots by our friend and professional photographer, Tony Ballesteros. Your first sign that you're about to see a humpback, or other whale for that matter, is by the powerful misty spray that shoots upwards of 20 feet in the air just as they surface. As mammals, these animals must breath, so after a deep dive of up to a quarter to half a mile during which they may take up to 15-20 minutes or longer, a whale is quite anxious to exhale and take in some fresh oxygen.

The antics of a humpback include slapping their huge flukes flat against the surface in rapid succession, called "lobbing", which causes  an extremely loud sound. Marine scientists have several theories about why a whale does this: it could be to stun their prey, attract a mate, or defend a mate.

Perhaps their most famous maneuver, and a truly awesome sight, is their ability to breach from the water, causing their entire body to clear the surface on occasion. And there is no "belly flop" even remotely like that of a 30 ton belly flop!

There is so much more to see and be in awe of during a whale watching trip that everyone who chooses to visit Puerto Peñasco from December to March should reserve a trip. In fact, there have been whale sightings as early as last November, and last year there were sightings in April.

Fin whales are still a bit shy and hang a little farther out, but the humpbacks seem to have adopted our nearby waters as their playground. According to Oscar Preciado, Captain of this 42 foot sailing catamaran, Tempo, when humpbacks find a place where the water is right and they feel comfortable, they'll return year after year. And they are quite an animated bunch as well, fun to watch and photograph because they have no fear of boats or people, especially if the boat pilot knows how to approach and follow the big guy to keep him in a playful mood.  Oscar earned the moniker of "The Whale Whisperer" through his uncanny ability to keep these giant cetaceans playing extremely near the boat, much to the glee of his passengers...

The winter season and its lower temperatures are no impediment for visitors to take in the magic and wonder at the Pinacate Reserve. The Reserve, which encompasses craters dotted across the desert landscape, offers one of the most biodiverse spots in the world and is located just about 30 miles north of Puerto Peñasco.

This mystical spot, which in 2013 was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers visitors an immense gamut of landscapes, from the largest crater, the "Elegante" which is the most visited along the Reserve route given its proximity to the entrance, as well as dunes, water tanks, rocky lava terrain, and infinite flora and fauna. All these wonders can be enjoyed even more fully during the cooler season.

Although temperatures in this area can reach down below zero °C, particularly in the higher parts of the Pinacate mountain range, days are generally sunny and perfect for hiking and enjoying the varied landscapes at a time when the heat is not as extreme as in other parts of the year.

During this time one can see winter foliage across the desert, and there's the possibility to catch glimpse of white tailed deer "venado bura", as well as birds that migrate to the region during colder months, including eagles. Reptile species take advantage of this time to hibernate and therefore do not represent risks for visitors.

According to statistics at the Pinacate Biosphere Reserve, the number of international visitors from the U.S. and Canada tends to increase considerably in the winter given the temperate climate.

Staff from the National Commission on Natural Protected Areas (CONANP) at the Pinacate Reserve recommend visitors first stop by the Schuk Toak Visitors Center and Museum where one view the modern, interactive museum exhibit complete with videos and images about the Sonoran Desert. The museum specifically houses information about the volcanic shield of the Pinacate and Grand Desert of Altar, as well as cultural information in furthering the goal of nature conservation.

Winter Visitor Recommendations

CONANP provides the following recommendations for those interested in visiting the Pinacate during the winter season:

• Winter visiting hours: 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.
• General admission $56 pesos or $28 pesos for local residents (from Puerto Peñasco, Sonoyta, and San Luis Río Colorado). Admission fee is similar to that in all protected natural areas in Mexico and is put toward conservation efforts.
• Dress appropriately and be prepared for drops in temperature due to cold fronts.
• If camping, don't sleep outdoors but rather use a tent and warm sleeping bag. Take your own wood for campfires and only use designated camping areas.
• It is strictly prohibited to collect or extract plants, animals, organic remains, wood, sand, rocks, minerals, archaeological remains, or any other natural or cultural element from the area
• If planning to prepare food, bring in own wood or charcoal.
• Use of portable stoves that use gas, alcohol, or other fuel is permitted.
• Do not destroy any forestry resource.
• We recommend you leave pets at home. Pets allowed only when they remain in the car or are kept on a leash.
• Large or heavy vehicles are not allowed entry, these include RVs and buses, as well as all-terrain vehicles (ATVs, etc.).
• The camping area is located between the Elegante crater and Cerro Colorado, maximum capacity 40 people. This is a fascinating spot and while visitors may not plan on camping, this area may be used for picnics and hiking along the interpretive trail up to the top of Cono Mayo. From there, visitors can view a large part of the lava flows and fields covered by volcanic ash.

Camping guidelines

• Bring your own tent, sleeping bag, and wood for campfires. It is important to keep in mind night temperatures can dip below 0°C.
• Be sure to have sufficient water and sunscreen as well as comfortable, warm clothing. During the winter use heavier clothing to cover the whole body, as well as a cap or hat. Be sure vehicles have a full tank of gas and that tires are in good condition.
• Do not use rocks as stakes for tents or coverings.
• Sliding on slopes of volcanic ash is strictly prohibited.

Dune Access

Entry to the sand dunes is through the Schuk Toak Visitors Center uhder the following guidelines:

• It is recommended not to visit the dunes during periods of higher temperatures.
• Sign-in before visiting the dunes. This must be done both upon entry and departure.
• Be aware of your physical condition as the trek is through the heavy sand.
• The dune walk to and from is approximately 2 hours of walking. During the first 10 minute stretch, cars are allowed in up to a parking area. There, the walk continues for 40 minutes to the first dunes, and then 40 minutes back.

Contact information:

Biological Station (along Sonoyta - Puerto Peñasco highway): 638 383 1433

Schuk Toak Visitors Center: 638 108 0011 

The "tremendous" level of support for American football among Mexicans means that the National Football League (NFL) will be back before long, says its commissioner.

Roger Goodell acknowledged yesterday during a press conference in preparation for the Super Bowl that fan support is strong in Mexico. "We had a great experience with a regular-season game there . . . it was our first time and it was a tremendous success," he said in reference to the San Francisco 49ers and the Arizona Cardinals game in México City in 2005.

The event drew 103,467 paid fans to the Estadio Azteca, setting a league attendance record. It was the first time an NFL regular-season game was played outside the United States.

But that was the last visit by the league, in spite of the fact that the largest number of NFL fans outside the U.S. are in Mexico.

"We want to return to Mexico," said Goodell. "We want to play more games there."

He explained it comes to down to the availability of a stadium and the ability to maintain standards at levels expected by the league. "When we do it, we expect to do it well."

Three games on foreign soil are currently planned for this year, all in London, England.