Don't be fooled

We admit it; these blocks can sometimes fool your eye. So, look at the blue fabric to see the designs. The blue fabric is the applique fabric, the fabric on top of the white background fabric.

Most often we see Hawaiian quilts with a medallion that floats in the center of the quilt. If there is a border it surrounds the center medallion. In this set of blocks you could think of each block as a border only, with no center medallion; or you can just understand that the design elements come into the center of the block from the edge. 

In our book "Design Your Personal Hawaiian Quilt" we describe this style as a grounded border; meaning the applique fabric extends all the way to the edge of the quilt, or block. The fabric cut away is just from the inside. The design motifs are integrated into the fabric coming from the outer edge of the block.

Light applique on dark background

You might want to read the article in the July 2011 issue of our e-Newsletter for our description of how these blocks are

cut. It is no different than any other Hawaiian quilt pattern, but if you want some extra assurance, read that article, too.

Of course, the look of these blocks changes with a light applique on a dark background, and can be very interesting incorporated into other quilts when you want a different look.

In this example we alternated blocks from our Tropical II pattern series with these Tropical III patterns. All nine of these blocks were made with a dark applique fabric on a light background! Imagine the possibilities for your next quilt.

Tropical III, six 21" blocks. Normal price $12.00, for a short time this pattern is our Internet Special for only $10.00.  Buy yours now. 

Did you know? We have a page on our website that gives you the FABRIC REQUIREMENTS for all our patterns. Of course, the information is also on the back of each pattern, but if you are ordering the fabric before you have the pattern, this will tell you how much fabric you need.

Two Secrets for Sharp Points:

1. Turn under a full 3/16" on both sides of the point. Our patterns have been designed for you to do this, do not skimp on the turn-under at the point, and do not trim away any fabric.
2. On the second side of the point, sweep the edge of the fabric down and away from the tip.

Remember: It is not important how the tip feels; it is important how it looks. The very nature of a point creates some bulk in that area; the sharper the point the bulkier it will feel. Bulk is not minimized by cutting away fabric; that only weakens the point. Bulk is minimized by sweeping the edge of the fabric away from the tip.

Note: For these photos we used silk organza fabric so you can easily see what happens under the applique, and red stitching thread.

Here is how we create pointy-points:

As you approach the tip on the first side of a point, stop stitching where the new point will be. Add a second anchor stitch in place at the tip.

Turn the quilt in your non-stitching hand to get a better position with your needle for stitching the second side. With the tip of your needle, catch the top layer and seam allowance of the applique fabric. Your needle needs to control these two layers of the applique fabric for the next motion.

With your underneath finger under the shaft of the needle for support, push the shaft of the needle into the anchor stitch, sweep the needle like a windshield wiper, pivoting around that anchor stitch...

...until the needle (with the fabric you are turning under) is pushed up against the first line of stitching. This sweeps the edge of the fabric away from the point tip. Use the thumb of the non-needle hand to hold this in place.

On a right-angle or less acute point, one sweep is usually sufficient. 

On a sharper or more acute point, (without undoing what you just did) insert your needle in the seam allowance again and sweep a second time to make a pointier point. Tug the thread to establish a crisp point.

When the point looks good, take one or two stitches close to the tip on the second side, then continue with your normal needleturn down the second side.

Notice in the photo below that the 3/16" turn-under on both points is distributed away from the tip of the point, not jammed up in it.

Yes, there are overlapping layers of fabric/bulk in the point; there is no way around that! But, by leaving a full 3/16" turn-under you prevent fraying as you are stitching the point, and extend the life of the quilt. Remember, worry less about how it feels and instead appreciate how it looks and how long it will last.

One of our favorite things about applique is that you need to learn techniques for only five simple shapes to master applique. All applique is made up of just five simple lines, or shapes:

• Straight line
• Inside curve (see our November 2009 issue) 
• Outside curve
• Reverse point (valleys) (see our April 2013 issue) 
• Outside point (peaks) (see above)

Keep subscribing to our e-Newsletters for more helpful information and inspiration to keep you happily appliqueing!

2 Fabric Applique Quilts with Nancy Lee Chong

Hawaiian Quilting with Nancy Lee Chong

If you learn best by watching someone else, then consider one of our DVDs. In both these DVDs Nancy demonstrates her techniques for these five applique shapes, and much more. By getting comfortable with these techniques there will be no applique you cannot do...and do beautifully.