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May Update 
 May 2013
In This Issue
Intonation - What's it all about?
Product Highlights
Luthier's Tip
Quick Links
More About Us

Luthierie Camp
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Upcoming Luthierie Camps...

F5/F4/H5/H4
 Construction:
       July 21-26, 2013            Oct. 20-25, 2013

Tap Tuning: 
       Nov. 16-17, 2013 

Tools & Fixtures
        TBA
 
Please visit our website or email Kali for more information about these programs.  

Dear Luthiers, 

Roger

 

We're excited as we begin to gear up for festival season and ready our products for display at various West Coast festivals. A major event for us is the California Bluegrass Association's (CBA) Father's Day Bluegrass Festival, which runs the entire week before and leading up to Father's Day. This festival is held in Grass Valley in a beautiful fairground populated by huge ponderosa pines and always features major bands, a ton of jamming, two stages, and good times. The event features a Luthier's Pavilion where we have a booth every year, and I will be doing two workshops; a slide presentation about the life and work of Lloyd Loar, and a workshop on the ins and outs of mandolin building.


We'll also be at the the Parkfield Bluegrass Festival (May), the Good Old Fashioned Bluegrass Festival in Hollister (August), and the Plymouth Bluegrass Festival (September). If you are on the west coast and have the chance to get to these festivals, please be sure to come over and say "hello."

Our Luthierie Camp program continues to receive rave reviews from its attendee Campers, and we continue to be enriched by the excellent work they do not only at Camp, but when they return to their home shops and put to practice what they learned at our shop. One of our great pleasures is receiving communications and photographs from folks, via email or our Facebook page, who have built with us at Camp, as well as folks who use our parts, build from our kits, or build from scratch using my books as a guide. Thanks to all of you who have shared your work and your enjoyment with us!

Our next available Siminoff Luthierie Camp is July 21-26, 2013, and there are still a few benches open. If you are thinking of joining us this summer, now would be a good time to sign up. For more information on our exciting Luthierie Camp programs, check out our website or email Kali or phone her at (805) 365.7111.

We've been busy with our web site and you'll probably notice some subtle changes to make browsing and finding what you need easier than ever. And, we're working on several new products, one of which I'm really happy to announce to you this month; a new mini scraper set you'll find further down in this newsletter.   

 

Thanks for building with us...

 

Roger
Intonation - what's it all about?   

Intonation is that attribute of a string musical instrument that enables it to produce perfectly true notes - i.e., neither sharp nor flat - when the strings are stopped at every fret position. While at face value this would seem like an obvious statement as well as what is expected from a musical instrument, in reality it is a difficult goal to achieve and an expectation that is not always met. In order to be successful in this effort, there are several issues that must be considered.

The first is the complication of dealing with the various gauges of strings that are needed to provide the instrument with the entire range of notes it is designed to produce. Thinner strings are needed for higher notes, and thicker strings are needed for lower notes. As string gauges change, several things happen to keep them from noting true (why this happens will be discussed further in this article). Suffice it to say that to manage this range of string gauges, a compensation needs to be made for each different gauge's length, and this adjustment is made at the bridge in what is called intonation compensation or intonation correction.

Intonation correction is the process of positioning the contact point for each string on the bridge's saddle so that the string notes (intonates) properly at each of the frets up and down the neck. Different gauges of strings require slightly different string lengths because thicker strings tend to change pitch more quickly than thinner strings when they are pressed and stretched to the fretboard. (The string is being "choked" as it is pressed down and that causes its pitch to increase.) So, as the gauge increases, the "string scale" (not the "fret scale") needs to be increased slightly. This is why you see the small saw-tooth stepping on the top of the bridge saddle for each set of strings.

The bridge saddles on most solid-body guitars feature adjustable contact points for each string so that the optimum intonation can be fine tuned. But mandolins and banjos feature fixed intonation points and are basically an average contact point to enable the use of several gauges of strings. (In reality, perfect intonation is only accomplished by having a bridge saddle designed with specific intonation correction for each specific set of strings.)

One thing that complicates achieving the perfectly-corrected saddle is that there are several ways to make a wound string. Wound strings are comprised of a core wire with an outer wire wrapped around it. And, there are several combinations of core wire size and wrap wire size that can yield the same final diameter string. As this diagram shows, a .034˝ string (for example) can be made with a .014˝ core wire and .010˝ wrap wire or a .016" core wire with a .009˝ wrap wire or a .018˝ core wire with a .008˝ wrap wire. And, of course, there are many more combinations for this and other gauges of strings.


If you have a bridge that intonates perfectly for one brand of mandolin strings and you change to another brand that has different core/wrap wire combinations on its wound strings - even though the package states the same overall diameter - the bridge may intonate differently.

One question that often arises is "If the intonation position moves back as gauges get larger, then why is the intonation point for the third pair of mandolin strings (D) - which has a larger gauge than the second pair of strings (A) - closer to the nut?" Good question! While the third pair of strings (D) is a larger overall gauge, the third and fourth strings are wound strings in which the core or center wire is actually a smaller gauge than the plain (A) strings, so the intonation point must be closer to the nut.

We have two scale lengths at play here: the string scale and the fretting scale. The string scale is predicated on a particular gauge of string's intonated length; the fretting scale is predicated on the fret locations in a straight line on top of the frets. For example, the F5 mandolin has a 13-15/16" string scale but a 13-7/8" fretting scale (because the strings are raised at an angle above the fretboard, the distance from nut to top of bridge is longer than the distance from the nut to a point directly under the bridge in a straight line across the top of the frets). With guitars and mandolins, the string scale is usually based on the second string's length, and the fretting scale is based on the middle string's length.

Why don't fiddles have an intonated bridge? Another good question. First of all, the violin (fiddle) bridge wins the medal for the ultimate bridge design. In the violin bridge, there is no direct route of the strings' energy to the soundboard. The energy of each string is attenuated by an opening between the string's contact point at the top of the bridge and the bridge feet. But aside from bridge design, the intonation of the strings on a violin is controlled by the location of the musician's fingers. In the absence of frets, the musician locates and perfects the strings intonation as each note is played.

Some banjo bridges are made with intonation correction notches. For those banjo players who choose straight, non-intonated bridges, they usually turn the bridge slightly counterclockwise to create a pseudo-intonation correction.

Around 1918, Gibson engineers began working on bridge saddles with adjustable contact points. These were made in the form of inserts that fit into a groove on the top of the bridge and could be interchanged or turned around to achieve the ideal intonation. Aside from the fact that the parts were fragile and occasionally got misplaced, the movable insert system presented the musician with too many options as well as parts that were rather fragile, and frustration in using it caused the design to be very short lived in Gibson's accessory line.

Intonation correction first requires that the bridge is in the right place. Secondly, the action must be correct; too high an action requires that the strings are drawn further to the fretboard which "chokes" them and increases their pitch.

In the final analysis, there's a lot to think about in trying to achieve perfect intonation on all strings at all fret positions.

One major change we have made in the bridges we manufacture is that the intonation notches, as a group, are positioned on the centerline of the saddle to keep the saddle from cocking at an angle on the bridge's posts. Another feature of our bridges is that rather than copying the intonation positions of the early Gibson bridges, the intonation corrections on our bridges are designed for today's strings with their unique elastic properties
MiniScraperSetProduct Highlights

This is a NAMM 2013 find, and we couldn't wait to try these out on scrolls. They've passed the test and now we're happy to pass them along to you. Precision-ground mini thumb-scraper set for shaping the delicate curvatures on mandolins, mandolas, and violins. Made from .015˝ hardened steel. Set of five classic shapes. Order part #885 in the online store. ($24.95 plus P&H).
You'll use this precision fret-end nipper for removing the tang from small-to-medium size fretwire. Our favorite feature is the adjustable cutting depth and with its hardened steel cutting blades, you'll have years of trouble-free usage. All steel construction with plastic handle covers. Nickel plated to repel rust and corrosion. Order part #846 in the online store. ($54.95 plus P&H).

A Siminoff special, we designed this aluminum drift with 12° radiused face to match our radiused fretboards, and it's versatile so you can use the square side for setting frets in flat fretboards. This custom tool is on our website as part #830 ($14.95, plus P&H).
 
Luthier's Tip: Gauzing the easy way 

In The Ultimate Bluegrass Mandolin Construction Manual I showed how to gauze by applying Titebond to the gauze and squeezing out the Titebond between two pieces of wax paper. This process works well and I used it for quite some time until Kali - who does all the gauzing on our mandolin kits - showed me a better and easier way.

After the soundboard is sanded on the inside, she uses a template to locate the f-holes and then marks off the area for the gauze patch. Then she applies a bead of Titebond to the center of the marked area, and using a wood spatula, she spreads the glue into a thin even layer of glue neatly inside her marked lines. She then lays the AcoustiGauze material on the glued area, holds one end of it down with the tip of a razor blade (to keep if from moving) and uses a plastic spatula as an applicator tool to smoothly force down the gauze into the glue. She only does one or two passes with the plastic spatula to smooth down the gauze - working one way the first time, and the opposite way in the second pass.

The soundboard is then set aside for about 10 hours to thoroughly dry before we rout the f-holes. Her application method works really well, and the resultant gauze patch is smooth, even, and very tidy.

Product of the Month: The Art of Tap Tuning with Hammer  

   

 

This month, we are offering a free Tap Tuning Hammer, carefully weighted and padded to ensure consistency, included with your purchase of The Art of Tap Tuning. You'll be on your way to tap tuning any (and all) stringed acoustical instruments with the Tap Tuning Hammer and 56-page illustrated book, which includes a DVD full of demonstrations, tests, and techniques for you to see and hear! Includes article by Lloyd A. Loar on soundboard structures.

When ordering, you must add the Tap Tuning Hammer to your cart (along with the book), and use the coupon code tuning13 to receive the discount. Not valid with any other offers. One book per person. Coupon expires May 31, 2013. 
Free tap tuning hammer

Product of the Month: Free Tap Tuning Hammer with The Art of Tap Tuning

May's Product of the Month: Free Tap Tuning Hammer when you purchase The Art of Tap Tuning. PLEASE NOTE: You must add both items to your shopping cart and use coupon code tuning13 to receive the discount. Not valid with any other offers. One set per person.
              Offer Valid: May 1, 2013 through May 31, 2013