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You can view our archived newsletters
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2012 Luthierie Camps...
F5/F4/H5/H4 Construction:
FULL April 22-27, 2012
July 15-20, 2012 Oct. 14-19, 2012
Tap Tuning: Nov. 3-4, 2012
Tools & Fixtures TBA
Please visit our website or email Kali for more information about these programs.
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Dear Luthiers, 
Last month, we told you we were heading off to Anaheim, California to attend the National Association of Music Merchants (NAMM) convention. NAMM is one of the largest associations in the United States, and this year's convention boasted a whopping 95,709 registered attendees. That's a 15 percent increase over last year's show and an indication that the music industry is certainly alive and well.  As in past years, we spent a busy, but productive, few days meeting with our suppliers to see what's new in geared machines, cases, woods, hardware, and more, and to discuss current and future products. This year, Kali and I found some interesting new products, and we're hoping to announce them to you next month. While on the subject of products, we are very proud of the fact that the major percentage of the products we sell are made right here in our shop. Machined parts that we have manufactured for us are made by a precision machine shop in a neighboring town, and our instrument cases are made in the United States. And, with the exception of some parts that are only manufactured overseas - like machines from Gotoh (a Japanese company) - we are honored to support the ideal of "made in USA." Just a quick update: Our April Luthierie Camp is full (the attendees are already bustling with excitement in anticipation of building a mandolin or mandola with us). If you are thinking of attending our July or October Camp, it's a good idea to get your name on Kali's list now because July is almost full. There's no obligation to get on her list, and it will help to ensure a seat if you decide to join us. If you have questions about our Luthierie Camp programs, please don't hesitate to either email or call me. Thanks for building with us... Roger |
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More on backboards
In our last newsletter, I wrote about backboards and what they do. I suggested indicated that there are basically three categories of backboards (from a functional standpoint): resonator, closing (lid), and sound producing. Mandolins feature sound-producing backboards, and getting them to produce the ideal tone is a critical element in the construction of a mandolin.
One question that comes up often is "what affect does wood figure have on tone?" Actually, the figure in and of itself, has very little affect on tone. I say "very little" because the figure doesn't affect a wood's density and mass. However, it can affect a wood's stiffness. A piece of maple with curly figure is a board whose grain is irregular. The irregularity is seen as wavy grain when viewed from the side and is the result of that segment of the tree sagging from its own weight. The curly figure in maple occurs under heavy limbs and along sides of the trunk where the tree is sagging badly to that side. Hold you hand up, palm towards your face, and then bend your hand down. Notice how the skin at your wrist wrinkles up. That's what happens to a maple tree that is heavily laden. As a result, the irregular wavy grain makes that piece of maple more spring-like, which translates into wood that is more supple. This is a good thing for backboards and a bad thing for necks.
The important part of the answer to the questions above is that it is not really the figure per se that has an affect on tone, but the wood that hosts that figure. For example, bird's eye maple is a figure that only occurs in Sugar maple (Acer saccharum), which is also known as hard maple or rock maple. Sugar maple is very heavy and dense (the heaviest and most dense of the Acer family) and as a result, it produces a very hard bright tone that lacks bass- and mid-range response. Quilted figure only occurs in Big Leaf maple (Acer macrophyllum). Big Leaf maple is among the lighter and more supple of maples. As a result, it produces excellent bass- and mid-range response. Curly figure occurs in all maples (in fact, it occurs in all woods, from those as light as pine to those as dense and heavy as ebony). The curly figure in Big Leaf maple is typically more "flame" whereas the curly figure in Sugar maple is more wispy and stripe-like.
So, it is really the density and suppleness of the wood that has the greatest affect on tone, not the figure. Several months back, I showed you this photo of a mandolin that Kali and I made. She selected California claro (a species of walnut) for the backboard and rim, and then she chose a highlight color on the rim for me to match when coloring the soundboard. Claro walnut (and other walnuts) is an excellent wood for mandolin backboards because it is so light and supple, and this instrument really sounds great.
Luthier Robb Brophy (Elkhorn Mandolins) has experimented with several unusual woods for backboards. Not only does he finish them beautifully, but he is very focused on preparing soundboards that complement the tonal attributes of his backboards using combinations such as cedar soundboards and cocobolo backboards like this one pictured here.

Regarding the final steps of adjusting a backboard so that it performs properly, I can't say enough about tap tuning - I know this is something you hear about a lot from me. Tap tuning is a subject and process that I consider to be very important and is, in my opinion, the key to success in building instruments that sound great and produce consistent tone, instrument after instrument. We prove it every day in our shop (and Campers get to experience it during our Luthierie Camps). To help you understand tap tuning better, Kali will be posting (in about 3-4 weeks) a short introductory video on tap tuning to our Facebook page and YouTube. In that video, I show some of the tools used in tap tuning, and I demonstrate tuning the tone bars on an F5 mandolin. It's the only way to make sure that you get the best tone out of any wood you choose. I hope you will take a moment to watch the video.
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Product Highlights
 ˇ Reproduction Fretwire - We often get calls asking for small fretwire similar to what was used on the very early Gibson, Martin, and Lyon & Healy mandolins. We are happy to announce that we now have fretwire to fulfill this request. This small fretwire has a crown that is .030˝ high and measures just .045˝ wide. The tang is the standard .023˝ width, and it is populated with beads that are a bit further apart than on standard fretwire (to facilitate setting this small fretwire into the fretboard without severely deforming the wire). Made of nickel-silver, this reproduction wire is part #382, is 24" long (two lengths needed for most fretboards), and is $6.80 per length plus P&H. (Not recommended for F5 or H5 instruments.)  ˇ Hard (Fish) Glue - Hot hide glue has been the traditional adhesive for luthiers. It is made from animal parts, dries rock hard, and can be thinned or softened with warm water. Although hot hide glue has these great features, the drawback of working with it is heating and maintaining a pot of workable glue. Our Hard (fish) Glue has the same attributes as hide glue but does not need to be heated prior to its use as does hide glue. Hard (fish) Glue is made from fish parts, dries rock hard (as hard as hide glue), it can be thinned or softened with warm water, and (like hide glue), it has great tack. Hard (fish) Glue softens at 145°F, which makes it ideal for easily disassembling instruments if required for future repairs. Our Hard (fish) Glue comes with an applicator brush and can be used for attaching wood to wood, wood to plastic, and for joining many other combinations of materials. We have two sizes: the 2 oz. bottle is part #803 and is $5.95 plus P&H, and our 4 oz. bottle is part #804 and is $10.95 plus P&H. ˇ Notebook from Lloyd Loar's Class - During the last 13 years of his life, Lloyd Loar was a professor at Northwestern University in Evanston, Illinois. A student in Loar's The Physics of Music class (summer of 1943) diligently prepared a class notebook, complete with detailed text and drawings. Loar's wife Bertha left this book in my care. It is a wonderful treatise on musical acoustics and is about as close as you can get to personally sitting in class with Professor Loar. We have transcribed the notebook verbatim, scanned all of the original drawings, and reproduced it with great detail. The text is annotated by Roger Siminoff to provide supporting insight to some of Loar's statements. Spiral bound, 44 pages. This book is part #508 and is $24.95 plus P&H.
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Luthier's Tip: Easy way to scrap binding
Scraping the binding after staining and prior to applying the finish is one of those tedious jobs that takes time and patience. And, to do it well, it also requires the right tools. Scraping the binding along the readily exposed parts of the instrument is rather easy. We use a single-edge razor blade with our thumb and forefinger pinching the sides of the blade to act as a depth gauge. This process is quick and easy, and it works quite well for both the binding and the corner points, but doesn't work as well when we get to the scroll area. Here, the proximity of the neck and tight intersection of the scroll and body make it virtually impossible to get into the tight spots with a single-edge razor blade.
To facilitate scraping the binding in the scroll region, I grind a square notch into the cutting edge of a #11 blade X-ActoŽ blade. I take the time to ensure that the notch is the depth of the binding's height and that the notch is cut into the blade the thickness of the binding. (I have one prepared for .060˝ binding and another cut for .090˝ binding.) The rest of the job is easy. I now have an automatic depth gauge, and when I scrape the binding with this tool, I can clean up both the top and side facings of the binding in one motion. With a few scrapings of the blade, what is normally a hard and tedious job is made easy and quick! |
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