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May, 2011
Vol. 4: No. 2 
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Green Jewelry News
 

Greetings!

 

Through traveling and teaching, I have been able to grow the Green Jewelry Community internationally. In this issue you will find two articles from eco-minded jewelers in Columbia and Brazil, along with important information on current mining issues, green jewelry classes, exhibitions, tips and more.

 

Many of you are members of both the Green Jewelry Community and of the Society of North American Goldsmiths (SNAG). I will be attending the 2011 SNAG conference this weekend in Seattle, wearing a green name tag, so you can spot me. Please introduce yourself if you see me at the conference. I look forward to meeting you.

Thank you for doing your part to make the world a better place.

Christine Dhein
Green Jewelry Educator

 

Newmont Plans Mining in Cerro Quilish Despite Strong Community Opposition

Concerns Are Spiritual and Environmental  

 


Cerro Quilish

Mass protest in 2004, the last time Newmont proposed expanding its Yanacocha mine into Cerro Quilish. Credit: GRUFIDES

 

According to a report from EARTHWORKS, as
Newmont Mining Corp. held its annual general meeting on April 19, 2011, environmental and human rights groups demanded the company drop plans for a gold mine at Cerro Quilish, Peru, where strong community opposition blocked previous plans seven years ago.

"Developing Cerro Quilish is an untenable proposal, both in terms of the financial risks represented as well as the damage to Newmont's reputation and social license", said a letter to Newmont President and CEO Richard T. O'Brien from EARTHWORKS and Oxfam America.

Cerro Quilish has spiritual significance for the region's indigenous people and sits atop the water supply for the city of Cajamarca. In 2004 thousands of Cajamarcans staged protests, clashing with police and blocking access to the proposed mine site for two weeks. The company later acknowledged that community concerns had not been adequately heeded, and in 2009 adopted a "commitment to the principle of free, prior and informed consent".

But in a call with investors earlier this month, Newmont said its plans to mine at Cerro Quilish would be operational by 2016. The site is estimated to hold about 4 million ounces of gold, worth almost $6 billion at current prices.

Cero Quilish is four miles from Newmont's Yanococha mine, the largest gold mine in South America and second-largest in the world. The area has been marked by toxic contamination, including a 335-pound mercury spill that harmed more than 1,000 residents, and by violence and intimidation toward mining activists.

Read the joint letter to Newmont Mining Corp. from EARTHWORKS/Oxfam America.

Defining the Terms: Recycled, FairTrade, and Conventional Precious Metals

By Guest Columnist, Jessica Hudson

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Jessica Hudson is currently creating her own course of study for sustainable jewelry making in Brazil.    

 

I believe it is important and highly beneficial for anyone working or studying in the jewelry field to be able to decipher the difference between recycled, fairtrade, and conventional precious metals and jewelry. Not only will this knowledge open new avenues to pursue in your jewelry practice, but also the ability to share this information with your fellow jewelers and potential customers. 

 

The expression "green" jewelry would best describe a finished work made from recycled or reclaimed precious metals. Recycled metals can come from numerous post-consumer sources, such as old/unwanted jewelry, industrial-use metals, and electronic components. When precious metals recycled, they are re-refined back into their pure elements, which means they are of the same quality as pure, newly mined metals. With the aid of using reclaimed precious metals the global demand for newly mined gold is decreased, and the environmentally and socially destructive effects of metal mining practices are reduced. Also, precious metals are renewable resources due to the fact that they can be recycled repeatedly with out degrading the quality. However, while recycling is a good way to reduce the environmental impacts of mining, only 30% of the market for gold can be satisfied from such sources. Learn more about recycled precious metals.  

 

Fairtrade in relation to precious metals is a fairly new concept and is often confused with the term "ethical" jewelry. It is important to note that claiming something as ethical does not necessarily make it fairtrade. A certification process is required before a precious metal can be labeled as fairtrade or fairmined. Certified gold results from artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) organizations meeting the Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standard. This means the gold has been responsibly mined and that the miners have received a Fairtrade minimum price and premium that supports their communities' social, environmental and economic development. The term Fairtrade and Fairmined acknowledge the partnership between FLO (Fairtrade Labeling Organization) and ARM (Alliance for Responsible Mining) who are jointly distributing certified gold. Learn more about these efforts.

 

The majority of jewelry out in the market today is made from conventional precious metals, or better referred to as "dirty metals". These metals are considered to be "dirty" because of the massive human rights abuse and child labor involved in the mining process.  Also, the highly toxic chemicals mercury and cyanide used to separate gold from ore continues to impact communities around the world, even in the U.S. Learn more about dirty metal and how you can help.

Tips from Our Readers

Alumina: An Alternative Pickle

    

adelaida flower earrings

Sterling earrings by Adelaida Acosta of Bogota, Columbia 

 

"In Colombia we use alumina as a "green" pickle. Even before the green movement began, Colombian jewelers where using it to avoid toxic fumes and health problems. Alumina is used as a deodorant and antibacterial, among other things.


Alumina is sold as a soft rock or powder. To use it mix 80 grams with a liter of water and warm it in a pewter or in a heat resistant glass pot. Use it in the same way that you would use any pickle, though it can be hotter than other pickle varieties. When your piece is ready, rinse it with water, you don't need to use baking soda to neutralize.

In my studio I keep a pot with alumina and water. I don't measure it. I just add water as needed. Another good thing about the alumina is that you can leave it in the pot for days. If all the water evaporates crystals will form, but you can just add water and reuse it.

For a deep clean, put the pieces in the solution and heat to the boiling point. Add more water if needed as the water evaporates.

Alumina is a good option if you want to go green and don't like the smell of vinegar. The only downside is that it may take a little longer to get the piece clean that regular pickle, but it's worth the extra time."

-Adelaida Acosta

 Bogota, Columbia


Thank you for taking the time to read this newsletter and learn more about the Green Jewelry Movement. Check out this month's events, and send this newsletter to a friend to help spread the word about using recycled and ethically sourced jewelry materials along with eco-friendly studio practices.

 

Sincerely,

 

Christine Dhein

Green Jewelry Educator

In This Issue
Newmont Plans Mining in Cerro Quilish Despite Strong Community Opposition
Defining the Terms: Recycled, FairTrade, and Conventional Precious Metals
Tips from Our Readers: Alumina as an Alternative Pickle
Green Links

· Association for Responsible Mining
· Ethical Metalsmiths 

· Green Jewelry Networking
· Greening Your Studio

· Green Jewelry Tips

· Jewelry_cycle Photos

· Less-toxic  Alternatives

· Madison Dialogue  

Thanks to SNAG for their Continued Support of

Green Jewelry News

 

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Christine will be attending the annual SNAG Conference in Seattle, May 26-29, 2011. 

Christine Dhein's Profile

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Christine Dhein is a jewelry designer, author, and eco-educator who has been using recycled materials for over fifteen years.

See Christine's latest jewelry designs at Lireille Gallery in Oakland, CA or purchase online at objectfetish.com.

View more work by Christine on
Flickr.com, including her Fashion, Keum-boo and  

Tribal Elegance

collections.

 

Learn More about Christine's instructional DVDs on Keum-Boo, the ancient Koren technique of bonding a thin layer of 24k gold to the surface of sterling silver. Learn how to recycle gold scrap in your own studio!

Join Christine on
Crafthaus, a website connecting fine artists, studio jewelers and designers.

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Classes and Lectures

with Christine Dhein

 

Green Bench Practices:
Healthy, Safe, Sustainable,  

July 26, 2011 

JA Show, New York, 2011

Javits Center, NYC

This seminar is designed to introduce you to best practices at the bench that ensure the health and safety of both you and the environment. More details

dhein_casting_greenGreen Jewelry Revere

Sept. 18, 2011, $149

Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts

San Francisco, CA

Christine will give you the information you need to green your jewelry business and meet the changing needs of your customers, as they demand more ethically sourced materials. $50 of your class fee will be donated to Ethical Metalsmiths.

More details


charles at bench 


Keum-Boo at Revere

Aug 21, 2011, $189 + $75 kit

San Francisco, CA
Learn this dramatic, yet simple, Korean surface technique of bonding thin pure gold to silver in this one-day, class.
More details
 

Rivet It! at Revere     

July 23, 2011, $189 + $50 kit

San Francisco, CA 
Here's your chance to learn how to make professional rivets to assemble both precious metals and alternative materials.
More details
      

Surface Sampler    

Aug 20, 2011, $189 + $50 kit

San Francisco, CA   
Add exciting and fun textures to the surfaces of your work. Learn a wide range of ways to add depth, color, texture, patterns, and drama with techniques including roller printing, embossing, subtractiion, hammering, stamping, punching, patinas and more.
More details
  
Exhibitions & Gallery News

 dhein breastplate

21tst Century Breastplate in reycled circuit boards, rubber and brass by Christine Dhein


21st Century Breastplate,

by Christine Dhein, will be included in Conterflux: Defensive Ornament at G. Gibson Gallery in Seattle, WA from April 21- May 31, 2011 in conjunction with the 2011 SNAG conference.

 

cosmic_cuff

Cosmic Cuff Bracelet in recycled sterling silver and rubber by Christine Dhein

 

The latest work by Christine Dhein can be seen at Lireille Gallery, 3980 Piedmont Ave., Oakland CA. Lireille is currently featuring over 30 pieces of Christine's work made from recycled rubber combined with recycled precious metals and gemstones. 

 

CR1 tripleStacking rings in recycled 18k gold and sterling silver with diamonds and rubber by Christine Dhein

Green Jewelry Articles

by Christine Dhein

 

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Your Studio: Making Eco-Friendly Choices, printed May, 2009 in Art Jewelry magazine. Download a chart of 12 less toxic chemicals for making jewelry. 


Proper Disposal of Studio Chemicals printed December, 2008 in Jewelry Artist.

Reduce Environmental Impact with Green Bench Practices printed November, 2008 in
JCK Magazine
.