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August, 2010
Vol. 3: No. 3
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Green Jewelry News
 Greetings!

Thank you for being a part of the Green Jewelry Community and taking the time to learn more about the issue involved in sourcing precious materials for jewelry.

In this issue you will find information about Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold, the ethics of gold, safe and sustainable studio practices, green jewelry classes, exhibitions, tips and more.

Next month, I travel to England to teach and lecture on Green Jewelry topics and network with other Green Jewelers. If you are in either the Derbyshire or Farnham Surrey area, please attend an event! I would love to meet you.

Thank you for doing your part to make the world a better place.

Christine Dhein
Green Jewelry Educator


FLO and ARM Launch Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold
Alleviating Poverty � Minimizing Eco impacts

FLO & ARM Logos
Fairtrade Labelling Organizations International (FLO) and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) have developed the first ever third party independent certification for gold to bring about social, environmental and economic development in artisanal and small-scale mining communities. The new Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standards mean that interested businesses can use the FAIRTRADE and FAIRMINED marks on certified gold products including jewelry.
 
Globally, over 100 million people who depend directly or indirectly on artisanal and small-scale mining are  trapped in unfair supply chains, and struggle to get a fair price for the gold they mine. The democratic organization of miners, combined with added premium and increased access to markets, will allow miners' organizations to improve the technology and working conditions at their mining sites, and also to develop community projects in education, health, environmental restoration and other forms of income. This would lead to more enduring and sustainable development in mining communities.
 
Artisanal and small scale miners produce just 15% of global annual gold supplies, but make up 90% of labour in gold extraction. Through Fairtrade and Fairmined certification, miners can improve their economic, social, labor and environmental conditions. Accordign to Cristina Echavarria, ARM�s Executive Director, "The Fairtrade and Fairmined Standards are the best standards in the market today for gold in terms of development impact on mining communities. They even set an example for the large-scale mining industry on issues such as traceability."

Fairtrade and Fairmined Standards Mean That:
1.     Miners will get a better price for their gold, with increased security of the Fairtrade guaranteed minimum price.
2.     Miners will receive an additional 10% Fairtrade social premium and an additional ecological premium of 5% for for gold that has been extracted without the use of chemicals and with strict ecological restoration requirements.
3.     Miners have the opportunity to empower themselves through their organization.
4.     Certified miners must use safe and responsible practices for management of toxic chemicals in gold recovery, such as mercury and cyanide.
5.     The Fairtrade and Fairmined gold will not contribute to conflict or violence.

Learn more about the Fairtrade Labeling Organization.
Learn more about the Alliance for Responsible Mining.

Protect Alaska's Bristol Bay from the Pebble Mine
Earthworks Asks Jewelry Retailers for Help

Sockeye
Photo: Sockeye salmon Photo credit: Ben Knight

Anglo-American, a multinational corporation, would like to build the largest mine in North America at the headwaters of Alaska's Bristol Bay. The Bristol Bay watershed supports the world's largest remaining wild sockeye salmon fishery -- an economic engine for the region.

The Pebble Mine could generate 10 billion tons of mine waste, and destroy salmon habitat.

Jewelry retailers are important in this fight because jewelry demand represents 80% of global mine production of gold. Over 30 jewelry retailers, including Tiffany & Co, Zales, and Helzberg Diamonds have already signed the Bristol Bay Protection Pledge, voicing support for Bristol Bay protection by pledging not to buy gold from the Pebble mine.

Please join Earthworks' campaign by writing a letter to Signet Jewelers (owner of Kay Jewelers and Jared the Galleria of Jewelry) asking them to sign the Bristol Bay pledge to support lasting protection for Bristol Bay. If you are a jewelery retailer, please sign the Bristol Bay Protection Pledge.
Learn more.
Take action!

Ethics of Gold
Report from JCK Magazine

charles at bench

Read a brief outline of current issues and recent news with Conflict Gold, the No Dirty Gold Campaign, and the Pebble Mine in Alaska's Bristol Bay from JCK Magazine.
Safe and Sustainable
Studio Practices
Dermatitis and the Studio Jeweler
by Charles Lewton-Brain

charles at bench















Dermatitis is a group of skin conditions that may often be contracted by exposure to chemicals and metals, and is a real hazard for jewelers. In his article on The Ganoksin Project, Charles Lewton-Brain, author of The Jewelry Workshop Safety Report, lists the symptoms, the most common causes for jewelers, and preventative measures that can be taken. Safe working habits are the most important first step. Avoiding skin contact with solvents and chemicals by using tongs, wearing gloves, reducing the use of solvents and chemicals, and substituting manual cleaning methods. Lewton-Brain applies barrier cream to his hands before working in the studio to protect him from copper oxides, to which he has developed sensitivity. Read the complete article.
Jewelry Training for Women
Survivors in India a Success
 
Donate Tools to Help Expand the Program

charles at bench

Green Jewelry Movement member Dianna Badalament trains Indian slave trade survivors


Dianna Badalament, recently traveled India, to teach jewelry making skills to abused women. The organization, Made By Survivors, is a non-profit that provides skill training to survivors of human trafficking and slavery. Based in Kolkata, Dianna joined the program to introduce basic metalsmithing and jewelry making skills to a selected group of women. The project is intended to give the victims with little income potential an alternative to working in brothels or becoming re-enslaved.

Both the Jewelry Artisans Collective and the Revere Academy donated over $1500 in used hand tools for Dianna to take with her. When they received the tools, Dianna stated, "Made By Survivors and I were overwhelmed at the generosity of the San Francisco jewelry community. The donated tools are essential in stocking our metalsmithing studio in order to teach the survivors a greater breadth of skills. These tools will also enable me to offer a learning opportunity to new girls who would like to join the program." 

Dianna plans to return to India in several months to continue her work with the program. To donate tools or materials, contact Jenny Reeves at the JAC.
Learn more.
Tips from our Readers    
Jewelers Share Green Studio Practices

Sourcing Local and Fairtrade Gemstones
A reader from New York had a difficult time finding ethically sourced semi-precious stones for her jewelry line. Here is her tip on how she found stone suppliers that fit her criteria.
 
"Initially, I consulted my minerals/gemstones directory book. I looked for stones that were native to America and Australia. I targeted stones native to first world countries because they have stricter regulations with mining and health of workers. Once I knew which stones I was looking for, I did a search online and followed links to small or family run businesses that mine and sell these stones. I was so surprised at how well this online search worked compared to doing searches for 'fair trade stones/ minerals', 'ecologically mined stones' or other variations of these types of searches."
 
Remember to ask each supplier detailed questions about their practices for mining and cutting to be sure the stones you purchase fit your own criteria for being ethically and environmentally sound. Consider sourcing stones locally to reduce shipping.

Thank you for taking the time to read this newsletter and learn more about the Green Jewelry Movement. Check out this month's events, and send this newsletter to a friend to help spread the word about using recycled and ethically sourced jewelry materials along with eco-friendly studio practices.
 
Sincerely,
 
Christine Dhein
Green Jewelry Educator
In This Issue
FLO and ARM Launch Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold
Help Protect Alaska's Bristol Bay from the Pebble Mine
Ethics of Gold
Safe and Sustainable Studio Practices
Jewelry Training for Women Survivors in India a Success
Tips from Our Readers
Green Links

�Association for Responsible Mining
�Ethical Metalsmiths
Green Jewelry Networking
�Greening Your Studio

Green Jewelry Tips
Jewelry_cycle Photos
Less-toxic  Alternatives
Madison Dialogue
Christine Dhein's Profile
action_jewelry
Christine Dhein is a jewelry designer, author, and eco-educator who has been using recycled materials for over ten years.

Christine's jewelry can  be purchased online at objectfetish.com.

View more work by Christine on
Flickr.com, including her Fashion, Keum-boo and
Tribal Elegance collections.

Learn More about instructional DVDs on Keum-Boo, the ancient Koren technique of bonding a thin layer of 24k gold to the surface of sterling silver. With this technique, 24k  gold can be easily recycled over and over in the jeweler's workshop. Christine demonstrates how to make gold foil from scrap in her DVD, Keum-Boo: Beyond the Basics.

Join Christine on
Crafthaus, an exciting new website connecting fine artists, studio jewelers and designers.

Classes and Lectures
with Christine

charles at bench

Keum-Boo in the UK

September
3, 2010
In The Studio, Derbyshire, England. Learn this dramatic, yet simple, Korean surface technique of bonding thin pure gold to silver in this one-day, class. More Details

charles at bench

Acid-Free Etching & Rivets Derbyshire, England

September 4-6, 2010
In The Studio
Derbyshire, England

Learn this step-by-step acid-free etching process for silver and copper. Then learn to rivet as alternative to soldering: basic, ball, and tube rivets as well as tubing spacers will be covered. More details.

Ethical & Recycled Jewelry
September 10, 2010
Christine will lecture at Material Conne
ctions a symposium presented by Jewellers and Silversmith's Network, Farnham Maltings,  England. More details.

Keum-Boo at Revere
September 27-28, 2010
Don't miss the new and expanded curriculum in this 2-day class, including the step-by-step process for making gold foil. More details.

charles at bench

Surfaces & Rivets at Revere
October 4-6 , 2010
Learn how to add depth, texture, layers and gold to your work. Explore a variety of surface treatments and embellishments including Japanese dot inlay, keum-boo, roller printing, stamping, embossing, and subtractive textures.
Plus, learn basic, ball and tube riveting, as well as making jigs and spacers, accurate layout, drilling and counter-sinking. More details.
Exhibitions

Christine Dhein was recognized by the British Council as an artist currently creating work addressing environmental impacts in their recent commission, Long Horizons: An Exploration of Art and Climate Change. Learn more.

rubber ruffle bracelet black larger file
Rubber Ruffle Bracelet in recycled rubber from bicycle tires and sterling silver by Christine Dhein

The work of Christine Dhein will be featured at Material Connections, Farnham Maltings, Surrey, England. Learn more.


Runway Circuit
Runway Circuit, repurposed circuit boards and brass by Christine Dhein

The work of Christine Dhein along with recycled jewelry from members of the Metal Arts Critique Collective will be featured in the windows at the Green Zebra's Environmental Action Center in September for Eco Fashion Month at 50 Post St. in San Francisco.
Thanks to SNAG for their Continued Support of
Green Jewelry News


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Green Jewelry Articles
by Christine Dhein

silver web

Your Studio: Making Eco-Friendly Choices, printed May, 2009 in Art Jewelry magazine. Download a chart of 12 less toxic chemicals for making jewelry.

Proper Disposal of Studio Chemicals printed December, 2008 in Jewelry Artist.

Reduce Environmental Impact with Green Bench Practices printed November, 2008 in
JCK Magazine
.
More
Green Jewelry Articles


Download a fact sheet by Ute Decker on less-toxic pickle, published by Goldsmith Magazine.

London Jewellery Week, launched Essence at Treasure, an Ethical Jewellery Pavilion. Learn more.