American Board of Certified Haircolorists Newsletter March 2010
By Andre Nizetich

Jay Marshlick Speaks Out
            Jay Marshlick is an ABCH evaluator and a fantastic haircolorist.  He is being exposed to some unscruplious dealings since L'Oreal has taken over the distributorship he was affliated with.  Here is a letter he send to haircolorists on email list.  I am reprinting it with his permission.

Dear Fellow Hairdressers,
As a salon owner and consumer I read an interview by Mary Rector from with Paul Sharnsky of L'Oreal with much interest and dismay as he spoke of helping salons reach professional growth. My salon is a Keune salon and I have been a happy customer of Columbia Beauty Supply for over 25 years. With the recent acquisition by L'Oreal, all of my purchasing got moved from CBS to another distributor. My sales rep remained the same but 25 years of personal relationships within the distributor were now gone.
Upon learning of the acquisition of CBS I received a very nice letter from CBS stating that nothing would change and CBS would continue business as usual. However, very few months passed when changes began to happen. First in March of 2008 there was a 5% price increase on all Keune products. Later that same year is when my distribution center changed, old ties were broken and accrued purchasing points with CBS dissolved.  In March of 2009 we encountered yet another price increase of 2.5%.  I also later learned of a large amount of lay offs at CBS.
The real shame of the price increase is that Keune's advertised suggested salon price has not changed in over three years. My salon purchased over $74,000 of Keune products from SalonCentric in 2009 at an inflated price of 7.5% over manufacturers suggested salon cost.
 Keune recently changed distributors in my area and I now purchase their products for the manufacturers suggested salon price that I was paying prior to  March of 2008.
I'm proud to say that my salon has shown continued growth through the last few years, but in todays market it is harder to squeeze any profit out of the bottom line, and now with the larger distributors/manufacters getting their hands in our profits, I fear many salons will find it even harder to keep their doors open. Shame on L'Oreal.
Because of how the distribution of certain products are handled in our industry, we as salon owners do not always have a choice of where we want to purchase the products we may want. However, if a distributor wants your business I think it is very important that we keep them honest. Acquire a manufacturers salon price list, and compare it to what you are currently being charged.
Jay Marshlick

Paul Sharnksy VP L'Oreal

         This is a response to Jays letter from Niel Ducoff. He articulated in a very noble way what we as salon owners can do when confronted with this situation

Hi Jay,

Your letter echoes those of many owners that I've received over the years. Salons are on the receiving end of distributor acquisitions - they have been for years. In the process, long-standing relationships often end and bad feelings surface.

It's all about market share, protecting exclusive lines/territories, and controlling distribution. The good news is that salons/spas in are in the driver's seat because it's "your" business distributors/manufacturers. It's your choice who you wish to give your business to. It's your opportunity to negotiate your best terms and conditions. And it's also your choice to continue to do business with a distribution company that you believe has compromised trust and integrity - or find another distributor or product line to support.

Perhaps the one constant here is that change happens and it's your choice how to respond in the best interest of your company.


By Tamara Dahill
Chicago, Next Examination

        The Chicago examination is always very exciting.  The new venue for the Americas Beauty Show is fantastic.  Thanks to the Chicago Cosmetology Association for providing space to hold our examination.  In these tough economic times it is always good to find sponsors to help move our cause forward.  While at the show come by and say hello and view the exam being administered.  It may inspire you to join us at the next one.
Tamara is the Evaluator Captain  
You Can Practice For The ABCH Examination on Line

   Go to the ABCH website If you click on the exam link you will find a "sample examination".  This examination has 40 questions and it is timed.  You have 20 minutes to complete the 40 questions.  When the time runs out or you finish the examination the exam will be corrected to give you your score.  You can go back to view the questions you missed or review them all.  it will give you a description of the answer.  WHAT A REALLY GREAT WAY TO LEARN HAIRCOLOR.
      Most of the questions have pictures that you can enlarge to get a clearer view.  If you like the format of the Exam you can sign up for the "practice examination" there are 8 practice examinations with 60 questions each and they are timed for 30 minutes.  All of the questions that are in the ABCH written examination can be found in the practice examinations.  There is a small fee for taking the examinations depending on how much time you need   to take them all.  The Exams are powered by EXAM PROFESSOR  There are questions  on formulating, chemistry as well as all of the disiplines of haircoloring. It took the board of directors a total of 500 man hours to complete all of the examination questions. If you intend on taking the ABCH examination this is a wonderful method of assuring your passing.  If you haven't seen the new redesigned website this is a good excuse for visiting us, you'll love it

by Mary Petello
"Organic" Daydreams and "Natural" Nightmares
       Let's face it-new and different is what keeps hairstylists in business. Mother Nature created the profitable condition of built-in obsolescence, since hair thankfully continues to grow. Stylists as well as clients are always on the lookout for something stylishly new, be it clothes, jewelry, haircuts or haircolor. Haircolor manufacturers are also always scoping for new trends, ingredients, and marketing strategies. Large corporations regularly create new shades, and discontinue old ones (sometimes even the more popular ones) in favor of something new. Often this is almost the exact duplication of what was nixed but under a different name, container, or barely altered formula and often at a higher price.

        Today the buzzword in haircolor is organic and natural. Anyone who has ever been in the same room with processing haircolor knows that the ammonia smell can be pervasive. Some brands will smell stronger than other brands and, by chemical necessity, lighter shades will contain more ammonia than darker shades of haircolor. The manufacturers are cashing in on the eco-friendly frenzy and offering "new, organic products with natural ingredients." Ammonia-free permanent  haircolor may actually be the same animal but with a dirty secret-ammonia has been replaced by another chemical which performs the needed reaction that ammonia served, but as in the case of the substitute, MEA, actually has a more detrimental effect on the environment and often does not create enough lift. If traditional permanent haircolor with ammonia is used in the recommended proper conditions-a well-ventilated room-the ammonia smell will quickly dissipate. Ammonia is a naturally occurring compound what evaporates into its natural components, nitrogen, and hydrogen, both gases naturally present in Earth's atmosphere.

          Enzymes are another natural developer used in some haircolors, and new Japanese products use enzymes derived from a fungus so they qualify as organic. Due to their larger molecular size, these products require heat, which increases alkalinity and, therefore, is more damaging.

           Part of the problem is the ambiguity of "natural" and "organic". Anything occurring in nature is natural (i.e. oil or dirt) and organic refers to material that was once living (plant or animal.) Both of these catchphrases have been overused in today's market, but they still bring in the consumer's dollars. The haircolor product that is causing colorists headaches, while steering their clients away from salons is the resurgence of henna in all of its forms (white, black, etc.) Henna is both natural and organic, coating the hair and creating wonderful shine, but beware of removal techniques. Henna may contain naturally occurring metals, so peroxide products should not be used for removal as they can cause severe damage and discoloration. Remember that desire for change? Henna is not to be used casually but many clients are unaware of the commitment involved.

            To find out the backroom secrets of haircolor manufacturers, enroll in Brenda Amaral and Lisa Kelley's class, "Lies About Haircolor". To ask the tough chemical questions, enroll in John Halal's, "The Chemistry of Hair and Haircolor" or Dr. Hayel Said's class,"The Science Behind a Perfect Haircolor."
Thanks for reading our newsletter, we will keep you updated on what is new in the industry as well as give opinions from some of the ABCH Board of Directors as well as some of the members.
Andre Nizetich President
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Mar. 7st
Energizing Summit at Bargain Prices

Over 100 attendees took advantage of the 20% off early bird special for attendance to the Energizing Summit last year.  The reduced price was for the general admission as well as the hands on classes being offered.  Of course you will not be able to even register until February 1, we just wanted you to be aware of this special offer.  If airline tickets stay low this can make it a very economical educational trip.  We extended the early bird special for an additional week.
Offer Expires: March 7, 2010      Registrations begin February 1, 2010