Bob, bob, bobbin along.... Bobbin lace of Malta

by Randi Hillesø

Bobbin Lace was not the only reason I went to Malta, but close. Traditional craft skills are growing more and more scarce. I am on a quest to try to preserve and glorify at least some of those crafts.

The fine art of lace making in Malta dates to the 16th century, probably arriving there via Venice. It became a thriving industry in the 17th and 18th centuries both for wealthy adornments and for ecclesiastical vestments. But, fashion trends being what they are, the industry fell from favor until 1881, when Queen Victoria became enamored with the delicate beauty of Maltese lace.  The current industry produces quantities of hand-made lace on the islands of Malta and Gozo, but most lace tablecloths and other time-consuming items are now are now produced by machine in China.   

I walked into shops with tables and counters heaped with doilies, placemats and table runners. Walls lined with rods displayed additional runners and pieces of linen trimmed in lace. Occasionally, I found a beautiful lace top or shawl, or a length of lace trimming. Mostly, though, I just found piles of doilies and placemats.

Then, on the island of Gozo, the true home of Maltese bobbin lace, I found a crafts village where a woman was making 

lace. I was mesmerized by the facile way she wove and braided the dozens of bobbins filled with the lustrous sheen of silk thread. Maria is a middle aged woman who learned the craft from her mother, who learned it from her mother, and so on. She was creating a length of 3 inch wide lace to put on a runner. The finished lace was folded neatly at the top of her work "pillow". She worked quickly, wrapping the bobbins this way and that and suddenly there was an intricate leaf. I was entranced.

Her son, George, was the proprietor of the shop. Like many others, there was a large inventory of the requisite doilies, placemats and runners. I wanted the length of lace she was making, and had to wait for her to finish it off. In the next half hour, they introduced me to The Family.

Maria's mother had 15 siblings. Her mother had five. She herself had four children. All were born and raised on Gozo and had never left. Most of the women were skilled in bobbin lace and the inventory of the shop was all made by family members. Wandering around the shop, I discovered a back room that was heaped with sweaters of all sizes, shapes and colors. Of course, I asked about them. They, too, were all made by family members and amazingly inexpensive. I purchased a cozy handmade, wool and mohair cardigan in rose tones.

Patiently waiting for Maria to finish her work, I poked through more of the lace inventory. I suspect that the more one poked and dug, more treasures would be found. I just scratched the surface and came up with several wonderful pieces. When Maria handed me my piece of lace, I put it around my neck as a scarf. She had not thought about using it in that way. Why  not? 

Too many of the world's exquisite crafts are being used to make tourist tchotchke or trinkets. Is it possible to give craftspeople different patterns to create items that could be used more widely? Instead of all of the doilies (Who has actually used doilies in the last 50 years?) and lace trimmed placemats that stay in the closet, why can't the same skills be used for lace scarves? Yards of beautiful handmade lace could grace wedding or evening gowns, lace shawls or trim on a special jacket.

I purchased several pieces from Maria. As a designer myself, I will put my creative mind to work to make the lace into something beautiful to wear. Handmade lace comes from the soul of the maker, just as any creation comes from the soul of a weaver or a seamstress.

Handmade garments and accessories have a power of their own, imbuing the wearer with a different kind of energy making them a true pleasure to put on. Handmade clothing takes time. Handmade items can become works of art. The skills of bobbin lace making should be preserved in something more than doilies that, unused, will either become heirlooms or trash. Thank you Maria and George for welcoming me into your world and, if just for a moment, into the soul of Maltese lace made on Gozo. Long may it live.

Bio Note                    

Randi Hillesø is a textile artist and designer of wearable art for women and fine loungewear for men. Her varied collection utilizes textiles, ornamentation and unique details discovered in her travels of study and adventure.  View her work at her websites, www.hillesodesigns.com 

 Malta Highlights

Here is a glimpse of what Malta has to offer. The three inhabited islands, Malta, Gozo and Comino each provide a different experience: populous Malta overflows with historical and artistic treasures and a vibrant nightlife. Gozo is lush, laid back, and boasts the world's oldest stone temples.  Tiny Comino's pristine waters are a diver's paradise.

BEAUTIFUL MALTA

View of Valletta