For months the Napoleonic world had been all abuzz anticipating a "1er Jubilé Imperial" at Rueil-Malmaison, a week-long celebration to bring back to life the golden age the town had known when Napoleon and Josephine made their home there during the halcyon days of their marriage. The zenith of the celebrations would take place at the château, at a lavish dinner-dance hosted by Rueil's mayor, Patrick Ollier, but few details were available and the guest list was closely held. No words can
describe my joy when I learned an invitation to the Bal de l'Impératrice on September 14 was forthcoming! I got immediately to work and succeeded in securing two of the last tickets on the Air France flight arriving in the early morning of the event. A new gown, a prized antique shawl, and a quick comb-out at a local hairdresser helped divert attention away from the signs of jet lag, and once we arrived at the doors of the château, magic took over.
One enchanted evening 
Liveried footmen welcomed us at the gates, and we proceeded along the torch-lit avenue leading to the château. Inside, we mingled with the elegant guests, many in superb period attire, and wandered through the rooms, admiring the lavish furnishings, the rich art work, the bold use of color in the walls, and the brilliant red and green upholstery of the council chamber where First Consul Bonaparte worked on some of his most enduring legacies, including the Code Civil, the Légion d'Honneur and the sale of the Louisiana territories.
We then proceeded to a splendid tent erected behind the château, and were offered champagne and hors-d'oeuvres until the time to take our places at dinner.
After the guests were seated at the festive tables, their Imperial Majesties and their court made a grand entrance, and we dined to the strains of Schubert played by a chamber music ensemble in period costume. The sumptuous four course menu was selected for historical accuracy. Foie gras en feuilletée, sturgeon, rack of lamb, dessert, each was a delight to the eyes and to the palate. The fine selection of wines included the Emperor's favorite, Gevrey Chambertin (bien sûr!).
Dinner was followed by a quadrille demonstration and the opening of the ball by their majesties. The champagne and wine having loosened any inhibitions, I accepted the invitation to dance from a handsome young man in splendid court dress. We ended the evening mingling and re-visiting the precious art work and furnishings at the château, leaving soon after the midnight hour had struck.
The next morning we arrived in town just as the festivities were getting underway at the Mairie (City Hall), where several Napoleonic regiments in full dress uniform awaited the arrival of 
Napoleon and Josephine to preside over the day's festivities. Three special areas had been set up: the Espace Bonaparte in the heart of Rueil for a reconstruction of scenes of daily life under the Consulate and the Empire, complete with shops, townspeople and artisans in period costume; the Espace Austerlitz, devoted to military reenactments, in
cluding an encampment with the participation of over 200 members of Napoleonic infantry and cavalry regiments; and best of all, the Espace Joséphine, at the château and grounds of Malmaison, provided the ideal venue to showcase the exquisite taste of the empress and life at the imperial court. In the afternoon, we attended the christening of a new commemorative rose and wandered around the grounds of Malmaison and Bois-Préau, ending on a high note with a military concert at the Place du Marché, featuring a dozen marching bands in full uniform from all over France.
 |
|
1st Imperial Jubilee at Rueil-Malmaison -
10 - 17 September 2012 |
Such splendid and historically well informed festivities required the expertise and efforts of numerous people under the guidance of Bernard Chevalier, former curator of the museums of Malmaison and Bois-Préau. Cristina Barreto-Lancaster lent her unparalleled expertise on Napoleonic fashion to the costumes. Prince Charles-Napoléon, president of the European Federation of Napoleonic Cities, lent active support to the initiative and participated in all major events. Mark Schneider of Williamsburg, Virginia, in splendid uniform, was thoroughly convincing as Napoleon.
---- and a perfect week in France
The dazzling ball at Malmaison was the first salvo of a perfect week in France. We owe much to our friends Philippe and Eliane Laurence, who made us feel wonderfully welcome and insisted we stay at their lovely home in nearby Vaucresson for the duration of our stay. (They do not subscribe to our belief that "guests, like fish, smell after three days!")
Vaucresson is only a stone's throw from Versailles, so on Sunday we took advantage of the perfect weather to watch the amazing musical fountains perform to the strains of 17th century baroque
French music in the gardens of the château. We then proceeded to the superb open market to buy the ingredients for a delectable plateau des fruits de mer, which we enjoyed in the garden with a crisp Sancerre. The week was too short to do more than take a quick look at a few favorite places in Paris, dine with our dear friend, renowned pianist Jay Gottlieb, and visit the
Biennale des Antiquaires at the Grand Palais. Before flying home, we took a short trip to the Loire, where we visited friends and enjoyed one excellent dinner at Le Grand Vatel in Vouvray. 
