Cathy Whims didn't study at a professional culinary school. Whims followed a less traditional route by majoring in Latin at the University of North Carolina. This stoked her interest in French and Italian cuisine and cooking. It also sparked her interest to travel, during which time she met and studied Italian cuisine in the kitchens and restaurants of the finest Italian chefs.
Today, Whims - a five-time James Beard Award finalist - is co-owner and executive chef at the highly regarded
Nostrana, in Portland, Ore. The restaurant serves regional Italian cuisine, emphasizing simple dishes and seasonal ingredients. Whims sources her ingredients from local farmers and suppliers. We caught up with her by phone from the restaurant.
How did you get an interest in Italian food?I was a Latin major in college. I did that - obviously not out of practicality - but out of love and fascination for ancient culture. I was especially interested in French and Italian cuisine. Before
Nostrana, I was a wine buyer at
Genoa when I was in my early 30s. Italian winemakers would invite me to Italy. The more I went to Italy, the more I realized the food was not what I initially thought. Italian food was simple and beautiful. Until then, I'd been quite a Francophile. It was a real revelation for me that true Italian food could be so simple and so perfect at the same time.
You studied in Italy with famed Italian cookbook author Marcella Hazan. She had a big influence on how you view olive oil.One thing I learned from her is how olive oil is such a significant part of the dish. It is a main ingredient - not just something for saut�ing food. I stress this to my cooks that come through the restaurant. Sometimes they will be shocked at how much oil I use in my dishes, but I remind my cooks - and the students that I teach - that it's a component of the dish. It's not just for saut�ing onion, garlic or parsley. Without it, the dish won't taste Italian.
What's one of your earliest food memories?When I was 8 or 9, I remember I told my mother I wanted to have prime rib for my birthday dinner. And I wanted to eat it with my hands! My mother wasn't so keen on the hands idea, however.
How did you decide to become a chef?When I was in high school, I decided I wanted to be a vegetarian. My mother was not very happy about it. She said: 'OK, you're going to make a vegetarian dish for dinner every night. And I'll make a dish that you don't have to eat. And then the family can choose one or both.' And I think that's what set me off on wanting to be a chef.
How do you use California Olive Ranch extra virgin olive oil at Nostrana? We use
Arbequina. It's the only oil we use for cooking. It adds amazing flavor. We also place the oil on the tables with our own breads, ciabatta and focaccia. Our customers love the olive oil with the bread. We also put it over
vanilla or bittersweet chocolate gelato with a sprinkle of sea salt.
What's your best advice for home cooks? Don't be afraid to use salt. And don't salt at the very end of the dish. Use a little throughout while you're preparing the dish. If you don't, at the end you'll end up over-salting the food and it won't be fully integrated. Also, don't be trapped by a recipe. If, for example, a recipe calls for cooking onions five minutes to caramelize them, it really takes much longer - 25 minutes or so. Cookbooks often lie! Go with your instincts, and don't be afraid to cook things longer.
What do you like to prepare at home?I've been trying to eat a lot of vegetable meals at home - not necessarily vegetarian meals. I'm always around such rich foods. So I try to eat really healthy at home. Asparagus is in season here in Portland. So last night I boiled some and served it with a salsa verde made using your olive oil, along with poached eggs. We also cook a lot of fresh beans. There are some amazing farmers here in Portland -
Ayers Creek Farm - and they grow these amazing heirloom beans. We'll use them in soup or simply cooked and drizzled with olive oil.
Do you use recipes when you cook - or wing it?I wing it more at home. But I'm not one of those chefs who doesn't use recipes. I use recipes a lot, particularly at work. I always want to try new things. My mom taught me that the first time you make a dish you should follow the recipe. After that, you can add your own variations.