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Ben Nevis Plateau Winter has arrived
Recent weeks have produced a very good snow cover on the Scottish hills and the avalanche forecast on Ben Nevis was HIGH in the last week. It's that time now when anyone visiting snow laden UK hills should switch on to avalanche hazard avoidance mode. To check out how good your understanding of avoiding avalanche is, try this link at Glenmore Lodge Avalanche Quiz
At West Coast Mountain Guides we take avalanche hazard avoidance very seriously and include practical instruction in the knowledge required on a daily basis to all of our guests, whether walkers or climbers.
For more current information and annual reports from previous years visit Scottish Avalanche Information Service Take care on the winter hills and have a good festive break.
Wintry Cottage
Christmas Gifts  
Are you still scratching your head for a Christmas gift? Why not consider a gift at Christmas for a friend or relative of an unusual nature, in the shape of a mountain course. From one day to a full blown course, summer or winter in Scotland and in the Alps for 2013. Call us on 01397700451 to discuss.

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Fingers Ridge
Winter equipment rental  
At  West Coast Mountain Guides we rent a wide selection of winter gear and boots and do have a stock of super warm Dachstein Mitts. Local maps are also available for sale. Discounts for group rentals are available and you can pick up and drop off any time between 0700 and mid-night!  
Transceivers   

Thanks to Terry Ralphs for the details shown below and especially useful for ski touring. Technical but important information 

  1. Mobile phone, radio, gps, or anything metallic against the transceiver will reduce its emission by half. It doesn't matter if the transceiver is in an outside pocket and the "phone" on the inside the fact that they are together is enough to reduce emissions. This should be detected at the group check. On group check it is recommended holding the transceiver in line with the one to be tested, so normally vertical, this is counter to normal search mode when the transceiver must be held horizontally.
  2. Make a full send and receive check at the start of each day. The time needed is not great and added psychological benefit to the group is also a bonus.
  3. When turning a Mammut Pulse on use two fingers, one on each red button, going into search one finger on the big button, Importantly when going back into send just push the bar back and don't use any button so that there is no possibility to turn the device off if using gloved hands.
  4. The Pulse firmware update to 3.2 is very worthwhile. Added functionality includes search airport mode, greater feedback on the devices settings and most importantly the rescue send mode. The rescue send mode is activated when turning the device from search back to send. In this mode the transceiver will not send unless it is static for 4 minutes. This means that it will not interfere with a search and whilst moving the motion sensor stops the device from transmitting. If only slight movement is detected such as in a burial situation it starts transmitting after 4 minutes. There have been cases where rescuers have been buried by secondary avalanche and this was developed by Mammut as an extra safety layer. 
  5. There is a danger of having a mal adjusted transceiver which transmits outside the normal range (457khz +-80hz). The problem is that a digital transceiver will adapt to the misaligned frequency (if it is the strongest signal) but as the digital search transceiver has a short frequency search bandwidth it will be taken away from the standard 457khz and so you will lose the rest of the transmitting transceivers. Once the mal adjusted transceiver is out of range the search transceiver will re calibrate to the next strongest transmitters frequency and pick up the correctly transmitting transceivers. This could take extra time in an avalanche search especially if you cannot switch off the defective transmitter. The most likely transceivers to be misaligned are the Ortovox F (ceramic aerial) 1. If using an all analogue system then this is not a problem. Also if the device is outside the tolerance range then the signal strength is halved.
  6. Overlapping / Super imposition of frequency issues. The pulse rate of the avalanche transceiver system is a pulse at 0.3 sec length with a space of 0.8 to 1.3 sec (average 1 sec). The problem is that in some older or defective transceivers the pulse length (0.3 sec) might be greater than 0.3 sec and this means that there is a greater chance that one transceiver will hide the others signal as the signals will be superimposed. There is also the chance that this might happen with a correctly adjusted transceiver.
  7. Basic search protocol. Primary search to hold transceiver horizontally by the ear rotating slowly to define a circle, then put in vertical position for 2 seconds and then back to horizontal, looking for signs on the snow and listening for beep (Pulse analogue range 80m, digital range 50m). Secondary search, on signal move quickly until 10m from victim then hold transceiver steady using two hands. Keep metal and ski poles away from transceiver. At 5m stop for 2 seconds and reset /align direction perfectly. At 3m airport landing system staying on the line. When signal minimum (now on knees) go past then back to redefined minimum, stay still and use arm's length to define the minimum do not move further. In a shallow burial this works well but if deep burial you will need greater room to define the centre of the circle.
  8. Glencoe Mountain Transceiver Park and Glenmore Lodge offer hands on training in Scotland. Also check Mammut manual  for more details on their transceivers. Finally This site can be translated easily and offers a wealth of information. 

 

Tip: The internet browser Google Chrome (https://www.google.com/intl/en/chrome/ ) will translate any website in real time while you browse.

 

Oberland
Alpine Courses 2013
Treat yourself and your partner to an alpine trip next summer. As usual
West Coast Mountain Guides alpine programmes are now taking bookings for next year. The promised Norwegian rock climbing/scrambling courses are currently under review and will almost certainly be offered at around £1850 each (1:2) or £1300 (1:3) These prices give an idea, including flights in-course transport and accommodation.
Bunkhouse
Price freeze on accommodation is continuing at Calluna for 2013 and bookings are now being taken. Details are at this link on the website built by my daughter, Victoria. It really is a family business.


Lagangarbh
Lagangarbh - Glen Coe

Links - Retailers - Good Gear 

  

An important area of an outdoor instructor/guides work is keeping up to date with equipment in order to be able to answer a wide range of questions about mountaineering kit. In the ever changing world of equipment this is difficult and that is where some good outdoor manufacturers and retailers come in. There are many and varied outdoor shops and I cannot hope to know all of them. However a few come to mind as being very helpful to our mountain visitors over the years. Some clients have driven many miles of a weekend to get good sound advice and here is a small selection.

  

Paramo Manufacturers of the best shell clothing I have ever used in 40 years of mountaineering.
 
Ardblair Sports Importers Ltd Importers Ltd In particular for AKU footwear . If any of you have seen my awkward feet you will know that to find a  comfortable pair of boots is not easy for me. The AKU Spider and Spider Lights are very light, warm and comfortable. The Spider is very good for the Alps in my opinion.

Ardblair Sports Importers have started an AKU Facebook page.  If you like what you see tell your friends and confirm.

  

Any good pair of boots will be enhanced by proper insoles and I'm convinced that Superfeet Footbeds really help. Go for the custom fit insoles. They may be expensive, but are a good investment towards comfort and stabilisation of the whole body frame.

  

Needlesports will be well known to anyone visiting the Lake District. Once again sound advice from passionate outdoor folk. 56 Main Street, Keswick, CA12 5JS

Freetime in Carlisle is worth considering if you are heading north/south and need that last minute bit of kit. 1-2 Market Street  Town Centre, Carlisle CA3 8QJ 

  

914 Outdoor is worth a visit for anyone on their way to the Isle of Skye, especially as the view towards Eilean Donan Castle in one direction and the Black Cuillin to the west is stunning. Friendly advice and a chance to pick up some last minute kit. Ardelve Kyle By Lochalshe, Kyle IV40 8DY Ross-Shire 

  

Cioch-Direct on the Isle of Skye made to measure Paramo outdoor clothing is very close to where Norman Collie and John Mackenzie are laid to rest. There is also a good spot over the road for tea and scones. Struan, Isle of Skye IV56 8FA  

  

Mac Mountaineering  if you land up in Inverness and prefer an old style independent shop instead of the larger apartment store layout. 34 Church Street, Inverness, IV11EH

Walk Highlands for a comprehensive list of mountain adventures and information  

  

  

  
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Alan Kimber
West Coast Mountain Guides

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Alan Kimber, Director of West Coast Mountain Guides is a member of these associations and licenced to offer mountain activities with AALA. Over forty years of mountain experience backs up these qualifications. 

  

 
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