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DF PhotoDavid Fialk, REALTOR
 Choice Realty Co.
732-283-3400 Office Direct
Welcome to "RealtyMatters"
May, 2014
WATER PRESSURE CONCERNS

The causes of reduced water pressure or flow are numerous. There are many factors that must be considered before determining what remedial measures may be required to improve conditions. 

 

First, consideration must be given to whether all fixtures in the house have been effected or whether the condition is isolated to a single fixture or a group of fixtures, such as the sink, toilet and tub in one bathroom.  

If the condition exists at all fixtures in the house, then the main water supply to the house is a likely suspect. With a public supply system, it is possible that the water pressure supplied by the municipality or utility company to the house is low due to an old or inadequate distribution system, restriction within the lines, or other factors. Regardless, only the water supplier is in a position to correct these problems. But it would be good to inform them of the situation to confirm whether the cause of in-house pressure problems may, at least in part, be due to conditions in the street.  

 

Whether a private well or public system, breakage or scale in the main service line to the house will affect flow. If the pressure reduction is sudden and the water appears somewhat muddy, a break is a good possibility. Evidence of a new depression in the yard or the sudden appearance of water in the area over the line, or even water seepage into a crawlspace or basement, are possible indications of a break.

 

 

Old piping, particularly if galvanized steel, can develop a hard scale on the inside of the pipe that can severely restrict flow. This is common in many areas when the piping is over 40-50 years of age. In these cases or if the piping is undersized, the reduction in flow is usually most noticeable when a second or third fixture is turned on. Replacement of the effected sections of piping will be required to improve conditions. 

 

Before contemplating any major work, however, all valves and in-line filters should be checked for the presence of obstructions or malfunctions. Surprisingly large particles of stone or other materials can work their way into the system. Such blockage is likely to cause a sudden reduction in water flow.  

 

Also make sure all valves are fully open. If there is a high pitched noise in a valve or area of piping it may pinpoint a restriction or other problem. If there is a pressure-reducing valve on the system, it may only need to be re-adjusted or repaired to restore flow.

If the condition is localized, the affected fixtures should be individually checked. Check all valves and any sink aerators. As with filters, particles can easily get trapped in aerators. Be aware that a flow control device may have been deliberately added to a fixture to reduce water usage as an energy conservation measure. 

 

Check the water supply tubing to the fixtures for crimps. If the problem exists only at one appliance, defective internal components may also be a cause. Slow-filling toilet tanks, if not a problem with a supply tube or valve, may indicate the tank components need replacement.

Last to consider is the piping size. While not as common a cause as some of the other conditions, undersized main or branch lines can result in reduced flow when there is a demand for a lot of water at one time. Size is more likely a factor if the house has been expanded and additional fixtures have been added. The upgrading of undersized lines may ultimately be required. 

 

One final note, if there appears to be a difference between the hot and cold water pressure or flow rate, consider factors related to the water heating system. A valve problem is the first thing to look at, but also realize that scale is more likely to build up in piping and on components exposed to heated water first, and to a greater degree.

While running through some of these tests may help narrow down the cause of the problem, a qualified contractor or plumber may ultimately need to be called in for repair work or to otherwise affect an improvement.

 

Note: These tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

 

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STAINS AND RESIDUE ON ASPHALT SHINGLES

Surface residues or discoloring stains can affect almost any type roof. One condition that has become more commonplace in new geographic regions is discoloration of asphalt shingle roofing caused by algae. Generally this condition only affects a roof's appearance; although, with certain roof products or the presences of other detrimental factors it may impact on the overall service life of the roof.


The staining and discoloration caused by algae initially appears as dark brown and black, or sometimes greenish, streaks then spreads across the roof surface. It's most noticeable on white or other light colored roofs. This discoloration is different from the stains caused by dirt and tree debris that tends to accumulate on localized areas of a roof; but it is not uncommon to find both conditions on some roofs.


Because of its appearance, the discoloration from algae is sometimes referred to as "black mold" staining. But the majority of the growths are not a mold fungus at all, but the type algae formation that feeds on organic material such as the filler (calcium carbonate) used in the granular ceramic surface covering the asphalt shingles.


The algae growth tends to occur most often on the northern and eastern surfaces or where the roof is shaded or otherwise slow-drying after rains. The growths can be found in almost all regions, although the problem is more widespread in regions where the weather is warm and damp at least part of the year. Prolonged hot, wet summer weather is a major contributing factor in allowing the algae to become well established. Cold, dry weather can slow or stop the spread but may not eliminate the condition altogether as the stains will remain.


Spores from the algae are carried by the wind. Once the algae gets started it will continue to spread, typically moving up and across the entire roof - and ultimately throughout the neighborhood as spores. The subsequent growth of moss and other fungi that thrive on the algae and other organic matter that accumulates on the roof can exacerbate conditions.

Some methods used to fight the algae are potentially damaging to the roof and to the surrounding property. Aggressive washing (e.g., by scrubbing, or high-pressure spraying) and the associated roof traffic can cause the loss of granules or other damage to the shingles - leading to premature roof failure.


There are commercially available treatments, as well as professionals that specialize in the work. Only cleaning solutions recommended by the roof manufacturer should be used. While some treatments will kill the algae immediately, it may take several days or weeks for the color to fade. Unfortunately, cleaning is only short-term benefit at best in most cases. If spores are present, the algae will begin to grow again almost immediately if the conducive leading to its growth in the first place are still present.

 

To avoid injury or roof damage, it is best to have the roof treated professionally. The cleaning solutions will make the roof surface slippery and hazardous. Before applying cleaning solutions, any dirt buildup or debris should be carefully removed. Foundation plantings should be covered and the applicator should wear protective glasses, gloves and clothes. Some cleaning solutions can kill grass and other vegetation, so run-off from the treatment process should be collected or diverted to a suitable drainage point. It's also important to rinse the gutters and other surfaces with clear water to prevent the solution from corroding or staining them.


The best way to fight the staining and discoloration from algae is to prevent it from growing. Manufacturers offer products with algae-inhibiting features. Labeled "algae resistant" (AR) or "fungi resistant," they have zinc granules incorporated into the surface of the shingles alongside the normal ceramic-coated granules to prevent the algae growth on the granules. Copper or zinc strips placed at the ridge area of the roof can also control the growths. Installing a dark roof will not prevent the algae problem but it will be less apparent.


Note: These tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at
www.housemaster.com.

 

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" Your Real Estate Resource"

David Fialk, REALTOR
Choice Realty Co.
1144 Green St.
732-283-2100  732-283-3400 Office Direct
David@ChoiceRealty.com     www.DavidFialk.com
www.JustRealEstateTalk.com