Compliments of:
David Fialk, REALTOR

 Choice Realty Co.

732-283-3400 Office Direct

  

Just a reminder to print the 10% Coupon. It does have an Expiration Date. If you you do not have plans to make any purchases at Lowes, you may want to give it to a familty member or friend. 

The use of de-icing salts is a primary cause of the premature deterioration of concrete in cold climates as the resultant brine works its way into unsealed concrete surface. Not only do the salts lead to concrete deterioration, but can also the corrosion of any embedded reinforcing steel. The extent of damage can be compounded if the steel deteriorates (rusts), increasing in size and exerting force on the concrete. This pres­sure will cause more cracks and deterioration of the concrete over time.Know your target audience.

Walks, patios and driveways are at the greatest risk from salt damage, but don't overlook possible damage to elevated porches and balconies. It is in these areas, where the reinforcement serves an even greater purpose in maintaining structural integrity, where the potential for serious problems exists.

 

External protection measures such as penetrating sealers or waterproof coatings applied to the exposed concrete can help limit the infiltration of damaging chlorides and moisture (if the concrete is not already damages, but rarely can they limit it altogether).  Even when a sealer has been used, the use of de-icing products containing sodium chloride and other salt mixtures should be avoided.  

Even in areas where de-icing is not regularly needed, concrete damage can occur due to sulfate attack, either internally or externally.  This condition can occur in areas where the concrete is exposed to water that naturally contains a high concentration of dis­solved sulfates.  This is a more common problem in areas where there is sulfate-bearing groundwater, such as some western states and areas of the northern plains or prairies, extending up into Canada.  It can also occur as a result man-made contamination from industrial sites.  In these areas preventative measures are needed to avoid exposure of the concrete to damaging sulfates.

Note: These tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.

 

	Insulation Types and Tips Here's our take on your insulation options, with tips on cost effectiveness and whether to DIY or hire a pro. Read
	How to Fix Drafty Windows Here are some quick, inexpensive fixes you can do now, plus more permanent solutions when you have the time and money. Read
	How To Insulate A Garage Door Garage door insulation cuts energy bills and street noise. Here's how to insulate your garage door. Read
	How to Insulate Your Crawl Space There's a right way and a wrong way for insulating your crawl space, depending on where you live. Do you know the difference? We do - read on! Read
	Basement Insulation Lowers Energy Costs Add insulation to your basement to help lower heating and cooling costs by as much as $170 per year. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this. © Copyright 2014 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

Get a record of your past tax returns, also referred to as transcripts. IRS transcripts are often used to validate income and tax filing status for mortgage applications, student and small business loan applications, and during tax preparation.

You can download and print your transcript immediately, or request the transcript be mailed to your address on record.
Click Here For More Info! 

Don't-Miss Home Tax Breaks From the mortgage interest deduction to energy tax credits, here are the tax tips you need to get a jump on your returns. Read
	How to Claim Your Energy Tax Credits Energy tax credits on select improvements available through the end of tax year 2013. Read
Visit houselogic.com for more articles like this. © Copyright 2014 NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF REALTORS®

At least twice a year, preferably before the local wet season and before and after major storms, sump pumps should be thoroughly checked for proper operation.

Manufacturer instructions should be used as the primary guide for pump installation and maintenance, but here are some general inspection and maintenance guidelines from HouseMaster.

With the pump cord disconnected:

* Make sure there is a grounded three-prong receptacle for the sump pump.

* Ideally the receptacle should be installed at least 18 inches above the floor.

* The receptacle should also be close enough so that the pump cord (usually a maximum of
   6-feet long) can be plugged directly into the receptacle.

* If a Ground-Fault-Circuit-Interrupter (GFCI) is installed at the receptacle outlet or in the
   electric panel, make sure it is working. Use the test button on the unit to confirm proper
   ground-fault protection.

* Remove the pump if possible and check for any corrosion, damage, or blockage of the
   pump components.

* Inspect the sump pit for any silt or debris that might obstruct the float or clog the pump
  intake or discharge tube

* Make sure the pump is positioned so that the movement of the float that turns the pump
   on and off is not obstructed by the walls of the pit or other objects.

* Set the float height to start the pump at a lower or higher level as needed. The float should
   be set so that it keeps the water toward the bottom of the sump pit at the normal high
   water line.

* Check the drain line from the pump to the termination point on the exterior for any signs of
   corrosion, holes, damage or signs of leakage.

* Make sure the line is secured every three feet or so.

* Add a check valve in the discharge line at the pump if not present.   

Once the visual check is made, an operational check can be performed:

* Confirm the pump plug is securely plugged directly into the receptacle. (Once again - no
   extension cords).

* If the sump pit is empty, add enough water, if possible, to confirm the pump turns on and
   off properly.

* With a sump pump with automatic preset sensor switches; if water exceeds the top of the
   pump before turning on, or if the pump does not shut off when water drops again, there
   may be a defective sensor or other problem. Refer to the manufacturer set up instructions.

* If the pump uses an adjustable float switch, the pump should turn on at the set "on" level
   and off when the water level drops.

* The pump should not have to run all the time. If it does, try setting the float or pump
   higher in the pit. If this doesn't help keep the water from the top of the sump, a larger
   pump may be needed.

* Check the drainline and connections for any leaks.

* Go outside and check the drainline discharge point. It should be positioned to discharge the
   water at least 5 -10 feet from the foundation at a point where the runoff doesn't cause
   ponding or backflow of water toward the foundation or erosion.

* I n areas subject to freezing temperatures, precautions must be taken to make sure the
   drain line does not freeze up or get blocked by ice or snow.

*Sump pumps should not be connected to sanitary sewer systems (unless locally approved)
   or private sewage (septic) systems.  

 

Backup pumps and alarms:

* If you do not have a backup, consider adding one, especially if your pump runs regularly or
   there is a high flood potential.

* If your sump system is equipped with battery backup, check the manufacturer maintenance
   instructions. It may be necessary to check the battery water level to make sure it covers
   the cells.

* Inspect the backup pump setup in the pit for obstructions etc., as was done for the primary
   pump.

* The float should be set or pump positioned so it only activates if the primary pump does
   not.

* Unplug the primary pump and add water to the pit (if possible) so that the backup runs.

* Plug the primary cord back in after the backup test is complete.

* If you have a high water alarm, it should activate when the float is raised, or if sensor type,
   when the water hits the sensor.

* Depending on the set up, an alarm may sound when the primary is unplugged or when the
   backup activates.

*Note: A Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) is a safety device. A GFCI could trip for various reasons, rendering the sump pump inoperative. While it may not be required, if a GFCI is present, check regularly to make sure the GFCI is on and sump pump is operational. 

Note: These tips are only general guidelines. Since each situation is different, contact a professional if you have questions about a specific issue. More home safety and maintenance information is available online at www.housemaster.com.