As of late we have had numerous comments about CA finishes cracking and crazing. This is really an ongoing problem and we get calls about it all the time. Where some folks find this phenomenon an asset to the appearance of the pen, most of us do not. The cause of this is a result of several factors or a combination of factors together.

     The first and most likely cause of crazing is the fact that too much CA glue is applied to the surface and the finish is much too thick. CA glue is brittle and when applied in thick large amounts on wood makes it extremely susceptible to cracking and breaking. The breaking occurs when the pen is exposed to extremes in temperature and humidity changes; dry heated room one day and windows open with high humidity wafting in the next. The wood beneath the finish will flex with temperature and humidity changes and the CA glue is not very forgiving.

     We have all experienced a blank breaking on the end when we press in the metal parts. This is due to the inflexibility of the barrel material; it has nothing to do with the parts in the kit. This breaking is very common in barrels made from corian or other manmade synthetic materials such as polyester resin. When using these types of materials it is always best to keep old parts on hand to pre-stretch the brass tube prior to gluing it into the barrel material. Press the salvage part in, knock it out and then glue the tube into the blank prior to turning it. WA-LA the problem with the cracking ends is solved. But, you say; I can now just push in the parts and they will not stay. Well, a small dab of that CA glue in question will fix that problem almost instantly.

     Another reason for crazing is very closely related to the first reason. When the weather is raining and really crappy out, the best thing for a pen turner to do for the day is to go out into the shop and make pens, right? Well yes as long as you are not planning on applying any CA finishes. When the humidity is already very high and you apply a CA finish, this finish will craze over in just a few days when the weather gets dry. I think you see where I'm going with this.

     The best thing to do is to put your CA on in very thin coats and only put on what you need to protect the barrel. Super thick layers of CA are just a waste of material and will cause you problems later.

     Here are some CA finishing tips:

1.     When applying a CA finish, do not over sand your blank. Polishing out a wooden blank with a product like Micro-Mesh to the 12000 grit sheet will make the blank too smooth for the glue to adhere to. Compare it to water beading on a freshly waxed car hood. Just sand the blank to smooth out the bumps and rough areas, don't go beyond the 320 grit. The CA glue will make it shine; you don't need to make it shine before you apply your finish.

2.    Limit your CA applications to a total of five thin coats. Start with thin CA so it can soak into the barrel and give you good adherence. Two to three coats of thin should be adequate.

3.    I personally no longer spray activator onto my first coat of CA. I think it is better to let it dry on it's own. This way I don't get any bubbles in the finish before I even get started.

 4.    Apply the CA to the cloth or paper towel; do not pour the CA directly onto the blank. Remember, keep the layers very thin.

5.    Do not allow your blank to get hot when you polish the CA. Remember the extremes in temperature. Hot today, cold and crazed the next.

     I hope these tips will help you. We all have been through and will go through learning curves. Some of these curves are very expensive. Practice on scraps and save the $20.00 blank for when you have all the kinks worked out.