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A monthly newsletter courtesy of BK Home Inspections
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Fun Time Teaser
Question:
What is R-value?
A. Number of hours a CFL bulb will burn.
B. Amount of carbon emissions resulting from a particular action.
C. Measurement of a material's resistance to heat flow.
D. Type of meter installed in your home.
See below for the answer.
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Household Tip
Never use petroleum based lubricants on vinyl windows. It will deteriorate plastic and attract dust.
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Things To Do This Month
1. Winterize your hose faucets. Put away hoses.
2. Vacuum electric and hydronic baseboards.
3. Check condition and flush water heater.
4. Clean blades on ceiling fans and reverse direction.
5. Change oil and start up the snowblower.
6. Check the condition and close storm windows.
7. Tighten and lubricate hinges on garage door.
8. Clean out the garage. Take inside items that can freeze.
9. Winterize your lawn mower.
10. Check antifreeze in car.
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Week's Wit
Does pushing the elevator button more than once make it arrive faster?
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Fun time Teaser Answer
The answer is:
C. Placing high R-value insulation in the cavities of your home slows loss of heat through walls, floors and ceilings. The higher the R-value, the more effective the insulation. For example, heat flows through an R-19 ceiling twice as fast as an R-38 ceiling.
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Contact Info
Bob Beisbier BK Home Inspections LLC S95 W32855 Hickorywood Tr Mukwonago, WI 53149 262-993-7755 Certified Master Inspector (CMI) RHI# 1035-106 ASHI# 212809 InterNACHI #NACHI08082601 DILHR Certified Infrared Certified Green Certified Member WAHI Member BBB bkpro@wi.rr.com
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BK News
The best time to learn about the condition and workings of a house is during a pre-purchase home inspection. We will give you valuable information about the home's operating systems. When we are done you will have a clear understanding of the property conditions.
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Is there an topic that you would like to see discussed? Please let me know and I will add it into next month's newsletter. Thanks!
Sincerely, Bob Beisbier BK Home Inspections Honest, Reliable Service |
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Fireplace Facts
Fireplaces are aesthetically appealing to many people. Because of nostalgia, or for reasons of intuitive common sense, homeowners have for years been demanding open fireplaces in their homes. Estimates indicate that over half the single family homes in the U.S. have at least one fireplace and about one million new fireplaces are being installed annually. Home buyers express an overwhelming preference for built-in fireplaces and a brisk business is being done in prefabricated units.
Where wood fuel is plentiful and inexpensive, people are turning down central heating system thermostats, stoking up fireplaces and learning through personal experience the pros and cons of heating with wood.
A fireplace must generally be considered a luxury, since its primary value is enhancing the appearance and atmosphere of a room. Fireplaces are basically low-efficiency home heating units (only about 10% efficient) unless extensive modifications are made in their design and/or operation to reduce the amount of heat lost up the chimney. Heating efficiency is net amount of usable heat generated from total fuel burned. Heat output is simply total amount of heat produced from fuel consumed. Several facts should be evaluated and some accessory heat-intensification devices considered if energy economics is a factor in justifying a home fireplace. By so doing many families have been able to set thermostats 10 deg. to 15 deg. F lower than normal and are enjoying the combined benefits of reduced central system heating costs and open fireplaces with acceptable efficiencies.
Fireplace Heat Distribution and Efficiency Heat, by laws of physics, is transferred by three methods--convection, radiation and conduction. Convection is transferring of heat from one area to another by moving air. Radiation is movement of infrared electromagnetic rays through air with virtually no warming of the air but warming of any objects when the rays strike them. Sunlight is an example of radiant heat. Conduction is transfer of heat along a solid object -- placing a warm hand on a cold block of ice conducts heat from the hand to the ice mass.
Fireplace heat from burning wood is about 20% radiant and 80% hot gases. In actual operation, most of the effective heat from an open fireplace is radiant heat. About 90% of the heat output goes up the chimney and is discharged to the outdoors, accounting for even the well-designed and constructed fireplace being only about 10% efficient as a home heating unit. Under many conditions, a roaring fireplace can actually remove more heat from a home than it discharges into the room.
Wood combustion is a three-stage process. First moisture is evaporated and driven off; second, volatile matter begins to vaporize into gases at temperatures above 500 deg. F; and third, gases and charcoal are burned at temperatures above 1100 deg. F.
To burn wood efficiently, the fire must be maintained at a high enough temperature to burn all the combustible materials of the wood. The amount of radiation from a fireplace varies depending on type of fuel used, intensity and size of fire and burning temperature of fire, which can range from as low as 500 F to well above 1100 F. Masonry brick linings in fireplaces radiate heat back to the fire to help create the higher temperature fires necessary for optimum combustion.
The greatest heat loss from a conventional open fireplace is through the damper. The damper consists of a cast-iron frame with a hinged lid to open or close the throat opening above the fireplace. It is important that the full damper opening area be equal to or greater than the flue area in size. Dampers are not always installed in fireplaces but are definitely recommended.
A well-designed, properly-installed damper will:
- allow regulation of the draft
- permit adjustment of the throat opening according to the type of fire and draft to reduce heat loss up the chimney
- close off flue to prevent heat loss from living area when the fireplace is not being used
- close off the chimney in summer to prevent insects, birds or bats from entering the house through the chimney.
- Close attention should be given to damper positioning in order to minimize the loss of heat up the chimney. Generally, it should be opened just enough to prevent fireplace from smoking, and no more.
Outside Air Inlet
Wood requires large quantities of "makeup" air for proper combustion. This means a properly-operating fireplace will draw from 200 to 600 or more cubic feet of air per minute up the chimney. Unless special inlets provide outdoor air to satisfy this makeup requirement, combustion air for a fireplace is drawn from warm air inside the house. Cold outdoor air must infiltrate into the house to replace warm air being used to support the fireplace fire. A normal fire requiring 400 cubic feet of air per minute will draw the equivalent of all the air in a 15- by 20-foot room in about six minutes.
CAUTION--With today's tightly-constructed houses incorporating weather stripped doors, caulked windows and self-closing exhaust vents, it is possible for a fireplace to set up a reverse draft and suck poisonous carbon monoxide fumes from combustion-type water heaters or furnaces and discharge them into the living area. Also, in tight homes, the furnace may consume enough oxygen from the air in the house to cause problems to occupants. To be safe, a positive source of outside air should be supplied to all fireplaces and wood- or coal-burning stoves. This can be provided by installing an outside air vent or opening a window when the fireplace is being used.
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Dust Mites
 What Are Dust Mites?
Dust mites are tiny animals you cannot see. Every home has dust mites. They feed on skin flakes and are found in mattresses, pillows, carpets, upholstered furniture, bedcovers, clothes, stuffed toys, and fabric or other fabric-covered items. Body parts and feces of dust mites can trigger asthma in sensitive individuals. Actions You Can Take
Wash bedding (such as sheets, bedcovers, and blankets) once a week in hot water.
Choose washable stuffed toys, wash them often in hot water, and dry thoroughly. Keep stuffed toys off beds.
Cover mattresses and pillows in dust-proof (allergen-impermeable) zippered covers.
Maintain low indoor humidity ideally between 30-50% relative humidity. Humidity levels can be measured by hygrometers which are available at local hardware Question: On average, how many microscopic dust mites are in a double-sized bed? (200, 2,000, 2,000,000) Answer: 2 Million - A double bed mattress can easily harbor 2 million dust mites, with each mite producing 10 to 20 waste particles (feces) a day.
About House Dust
House dust may contain asthma triggers. Actions You Can Take
Remove dust often with a damp cloth. Vacuum carpet, fabric window coverings, and fabric-covered furniture to reduce dust build-up.
Allergic people should leave the area being vacuumed.
Using central vacuums or vacuums with high efficiency filters may be helpful. Buyer Beware The air purifier and vacuum industries have enthusiastically jumped onto the HEPA bandwagon, and sales have grown astronomically. As a result, many products are tagged with the word HEPA. Label examples include "HEPA-like", "HEPA-type", and "99% HEPA". Products of this type are designed and manufactured to appear similar to true HEPA filters; however, they do not satisfy the same performance requirements.
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- The interior of the Sun is 29 million degrees fahrenheit. The Sun burns off and shrinks 5' per hour
- Pluto is the smallest and lightest known planet in our solar system
- The greatest distance between two planets is between Neptune and Pluto
- A slow cooker uses up to 75 percent less energy than an electric oven.
- The Earth's Moon is responsible for the ocean's tides
- The Earth's Moon is 1 million times drier then the driest desert on the planet, the Gobi desert
- 100 Million meteroriods enter the Earth's atmosphere every day
- There is direct proof of 100 billion stars, but still counting
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1. By making energy-saving improvements to your home you could save 30% on your energy bills. The is a quick checklist that will help you assess your energy use.
2. Make sure your home's envelope is properly insulated and air sealed.
3. Have the ducts tested for air leakage.
4. Install an ENERGY STAR labeled programmable thermostat to keep your house at a comfortable temperature when you are home.
5. Turn your water heater down to 115 degrees Fahrenheit to save money. If you have children in the house, this is also a safety measure to prevent scalding.
Energy efficient products can help reduce your energy bills
Lighting can be a huge energy cost. To save up to 75% on your lighting bills, change the lights in high-use areas to ENERGY STAR labeled lighting. If you are purchasing a new HVAC system, look for ENERGY STAR to get the highest efficiency available.If you are purchasing new appliances, look for the ENERGY STAR label to save money and energy.
Air Sealing
Sealing windows and doors is a relatively inexpensive and easy task that can be done by the do-it-yourselfer. Both windows and doors can require caulk and weather stripping for adequate protection against the elements. If you feel a draft, that's a sign that additional weatherization is needed. You should also inspect the caulk and weather stripping around doors and windows and replace anything that is cracked or damaged.
Caulking: Caulking requires very few tools: a caulking gun, the tube of caulk, a rag, a nail, and a razor or knife are typically all that you will need. You will want to make sure that the caulk is suitable for exterior applications. It will say so right on the tube.
Weather stripping: There are several different types of weather stripping, each varying in durability and ease of installation. If you are concerned about aesthetics, note that some types of weather stripping are visible when installed, while others are not. Since there are many types of weather stripping, it is probably best just to ask at your local hardware or home building supply store.
You also should look at the outlets in your home. On a windy day, place your hand close to the outlet. You might be surprised to feel a draft. If you do, plugs designed for capping unused outlets are available at most hardware stores. Also, foam gaskets are available for insulating behind the outlet cover.
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Winter checklist
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- Remove screens from windows and install storm windows
- Clean out gutters and downspouts
- Insulate pipes in your home's crawl spaces and attic
- Store firewood at least 10 feet away from your home
- Familiarize responsible family members with the gas main valve and other appliance valves
- Clean the clothes dryer exhaust duct, damper and space under the dryer
- Make sure all electrical holiday decorations have tight connections
- Check the attic for adequate ventilation
- Clean the kitchen exhaust hood and air filter
- Check the water hoses on the clothes washer, refrigerator icemaker, and dishwasher for cracks and bubbles
- Test all ground-fault-circuit-interrupter (GFCI ) type outlets
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Question and Answer time Q. Bob, We have a problem with ice on the inside of our windows (20 yrs old). This problem has been happening for 10 years. We want to replace the windows but are afraid there might be a problem other than the windows. We keep our heat on about 62 during the winter nights. Windows are wood framed. If you have an idea, I would appreciate hearing from you. Thanks, Dan
A. Dan, Windows form ice when their surface drops below the freezing point and the dew point for the air mass. One way to avoid the freezing is to install thermal windows with low e and Argon fill with a U factor of less than .35 This will keep the glass as warm as can be expected. But that is only part of the equation. The other part is interior humidty. If your interior humidity exceeds 30% or so in winter you have too much moisture in the air. This can be caused by improperly vented dryers and bath fans, excess cooking, improperly adjusted humidifiers on furnaces, wet or damp basements, or using unvented gas heaters which produce a lot of moisture. If you replace the windows with thermal pane glass and do nothing about the moisture problem, the only difference you will have is wet windows instead of iced windows.
Q. A question I had for you is what's your take on solar energy to supplement WE Energies power. I have updated from a 100 amp 12 circuit panel to 200 amp 42 circuit panel and since then I've been trying to find ways to bring the electrical bill down. Have they made progress with the technology that the up front cost would pay for itself under 3 years or so? I obviously want to 'be green' and 'save the planet' but the deciding factor is not going to be feeling good about myself but rather because it's cheaper. Thanks Paul
A. Paul,
I've checked into solar panels too and the payback is about 15 years. Trouble is we have anywhere between 7-15 hours of daylight and cut that in half for cloudy days. You buy electricity at 12 cents but they buy back at only 3 cents per KwH. Solar is a huge investment. So how about wind? Wind can blow 24 hours a day but find a place to put it without the neighbors having a fit. Again a huge investment. I have been slowly converting to LED's for my lighting. This cuts the lighting portion of the electric bill 90%. I calculated by changing just the kitchen lights to LED's I am saving $16.80 per month or over $200 per year. LED's are still expensive but are slowly coming down. I figure a 15 month payback with the investment of LED's. Gas seems to be stable or decreasing in price. Water heaters, stove, furnace, and dryers should be gas, much cheaper to run (about half the cost in energy.) Energy star appliances makes a difference also. Refrigerators, AC, dishwashers, top loading washers, etc. If they are over 10 years old or not energy star they are energy wasters. Take a look around the home and make a list all the things wasting energy. I did that and was shocked. I even bought an electric monitor I think it's called a "kill a watt". I put it on an old fridge that I have in the garage. The dumb thing was costing me $170 per year to run. I got rid of that and noticed my electric bill go down immediately. Just look at every outlet in your home. What's plugged into it? Is it needed? Is it wasting electricity? Same with bulbs. Yes, it is an investment but one that will save you $$$ down the road. Good luck!
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Reverse Osmosis Systems
First we need to understand the process of osmosis. The basic fundamental of osmosis is: the less concentrated solution will seek to dilute the more concentrated solution. If we place a semipermeable membrane between, say, more salty water and pure water, osmotic pressure will occur and cause the pure water to seek to dilute the salty water. This is why drinking salty (ocean) water will kill a person. When you put salty water in your stomach, osmotic pressure begins drawing water out of your body to try to dilute the salt in your stomach. Eventually, you dehydrate and die. In an RO water treatment system we reverse normal osmotic pressure by forcing water through a semipermeable membrane with higher pressure on the more concentrated side of the membrane than the less concentrated side. The semipermeable membrane has pores large enough to allow water molecules through but small enough to block most of the larger contaminant (salt, minerals, etc.) molecules. The "purified" water is stored in the tank beyond the membrane to be used on demand through the sink top tap. To help prevent the membrane from clogging quickly typically one or more pre-filters are installed to catch the larger particles. RO systems need a lot of water. Obtaining 5-gallons of purified water requires about 45 to 90 gallons of input water. On the input side of the membrane there are an inlet and outlet for the water. Since only about 5-15 percent of the "purified" water makes it beyond the membrane, there is a lot of reject water. This water contains rejected contaminants and is usually evacuated to the house DWV system. Modern RO systems have a built-in air gap in the glass filler on the sink top for this drain to pass through to prevent a direct connection between potable water and the sewer system. RO systems generally require maintenance a couple times a year. Of course this all depends upon use and/or the amount of contaminants in the feed water. Clients should be notified of the presence of the system and to contact the manufacturer and inquire with the seller regarding the recommended maintenance and costs. Additionally, many of these systems are "rented" from a water treatment company. Clients should inquire with the seller regarding whether the system is owned or leased and costs.
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Indoor Air and Your Health
Did you know BK can do an Air Check?
What Causes Indoor Air Problems? Indoor pollution sources that release gases or particles into the air are the primary cause of indoor air quality problems in homes. Inadequate ventilation can increase indoor pollutant levels by not bringing in enough outdoor air to dilute emissions from indoor sources and by not carrying indoor air pollutants out of the home. High temperature and humidity levels can also increase concentrations of some pollutants.
Pollutant Sources There are many sources of indoor air pollution in any environment. These include combustion sources such as oil, gas, kerosene, coal, wood, and tobacco products; building materials and furnishings as diverse as deteriorated, wet or damp carpet, and cabinetry or furniture made of certain pressed wood products; products for household cleaning and maintenance, personal care, or hobbies; central heating and cooling systems and humidification devices; and outdoor sources such as pesticides, and outdoor air pollution. Some sources, such as building materials, furnishings, and household products like air fresheners, release pollutants more or less continuously. Other sources, related to activities carried out in the home, release pollutants intermittently. These include smoking, the use of unvented or malfunctioning stoves, furnaces, or space heaters, the use of solvents in cleaning and hobby activities, the use of paint strippers in redecorating activities, and the use of cleaning products and pesticides in housekeeping. High pollutant concentrations can remain in the air for long periods after some of these activities.
The Scope of the Problem Most information about sources and health effects of biological pollutants is based on studies of large office buildings and two surveys of homes in northern U.S. and Canada. These surveys show that 30% to 50% of all structures have damp conditions, which may encourage the growth and buildup of biological pollutants. Some diseases or illnesses have been linked with biological pollutants in the indoor environment. This percentage is likely to be higher in warm, moist climates.
Health Effects of Biological Pollutants All of us are exposed to biological pollutants. However, the effects on our health depend upon the type and amount of biological pollution and the individual person. Some people do not experience health reactions from certain biological pollutants, while others may experience one or more of the following reactions:
- Allergic
- Infectious
- Toxic
Except for the spread of infections indoors, ALLERGIC REACTIONS may be the most common health problem with indoor air quality in homes. They are often connected with animal dander (mostly from cats and dogs), with house dust mites (microscopic animals living in household dust), and with pollen. Allergic reactions can range from mildly uncomfortable to life-threatening, as in a severe asthma attack. Some common signs and symptoms are:
- Watery eyes
- Runny nose and sneezing
- Nasal congestion
- Itching
- Coughing
- Wheezing and difficulty breathing
- Headache
- Fatigue
Health experts are especially concerned about people with asthma. These people have very sensitive airways that can react to various irritants, making breathing difficult. The number of people who have asthma has greatly increased in recent years. The number of people with asthma has gone up by 59 percent since 1970, to a total of 9.6 million people. Asthma in children under 15 years of age has increased 41 percent in the same period, to a total of 2.6 million children. The number of deaths from asthma is up by 68 percent since 1979, to a total of almost 4,400 deaths per year. INFECTIOUS DISEASES caused by bacteria and viruses, such as flu, measles, chicken pox, and tuberculosis, may be spread indoors. Most infectious diseases pass from person to person through physical contact. Crowded conditions with poor air circulation can promote this spread. Some bacteria and viruses thrive in buildings and circulate through indoor ventilation systems. For example, the bacterium causing Legionnaire's disease, a serious and sometimes lethal infection, and Pontiac Fever, a flu-like illness, have circulated in some large buildings.
Indoor Air and Your Health Health effects from indoor air pollutants may be experienced soon after exposure or, possibly, years later. Immediate effects may show up after a single exposure or repeated exposures. These include irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, headaches, dizziness, and fatigue. Such immediate effects are usually short-term and treatable. Sometimes the treatment is simply eliminating the person's exposure to the source of the pollution, if it can be identified. Symptoms of some diseases, including asthma, hypersensitivity pneumonitis, and humidifier fever, may also show up soon after exposure to some indoor air pollutants. The likelihood of immediate reactions to indoor air pollutants depends on several factors. Age and preexisting medical conditions are two important influences. In other cases, whether a person reacts to a pollutant depends on individual sensitivity, which varies tremendously from person to person. Some people can become sensitized to biological pollutants after repeated exposures, and it appears that some people can become sensitized to chemical pollutants as well. Certain immediate effects are similar to those from colds or other viral diseases, so it is often difficult to determine if the symptoms are a result of exposure to indoor air pollution. For this reason, it is important to pay attention to the time and place the symptoms occur. If the symptoms fade or go away when a person is away from the home and return when the person returns, an effort should be made to identify indoor air sources that may be possible causes. Some effects may be made worse by an inadequate supply of outdoor air or from the heating, cooling, or humidity conditions prevalent in the home. Other health effects may show up either years after exposure has occurred or only after long or repeated periods of exposure. These effects, which include some respiratory diseases, heart disease, and cancer, can be severely debilitating or fatal. It is prudent to try to improve the indoor air quality in your home even if symptoms are not noticeable.
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Signs of Foundation Trouble
Sometimes, a foundation problem is obvious such as when a large crack develops in the walls of your basement. However, there can also be other signs that your foundation is having issues that may not be as obvious. Knowing what to look for is important, and here are a few signs of trouble with your foundation that you should be aware of and pay attention to:
1. Sloping or uneven floors in the basement. This can be a sign that the walls and basement floor are starting to separate or pull away from each other. It is a serious issue and one you should deal with promptly by calling in a foundation repair expert.
2. Cracks or shifts in your crown molding. Crown molding is molding between your sealing and your wall. If your crown molding begins to pull away at the sides (i.e. in corners or where two pieces meet) this is a sign that your home is shifting and your foundation might be in trouble. This is especially true if the crack begins in the wall and continues up into the molding.
3. Cracks or gaps between the walls and ceiling. If your home does not have crown molding, then you may notice gaps developing between the wall and ceiling. This, too, is a sign that the foundation of your home is shifting and that your foundation needs attention.
4. Cracks on your home's exterior in the brickwork, or the walls separating form your home. This is an extremely serious sign of foundation problems and it means that you must contact an expert right away to preserve the structural integrity of your home.
5. Separation at the windows, doors or garage door. Essentially, like most of the other signs, shifting and pulling away of parts of your home that used to be tight are all indicators that your home's foundation is beginning to develop problems.
6. Inability to tightly or properly close windows and doors. If your foundation begins to sink, door frames may begin to sag and you may be unable to properly open or close doors. Likewise, a sagging or shifting foundation can cause your windows and doors to become out-of-square and more difficult to open or close.
If you begin to notice any of these issues with your foundation, it is very important that you contact an expert. The longer you wait, the worse the problems in your home may become and the more expensive it may be to fix all of the issues that have developed due to your sagging, shifting or damaged foundation. Don't hesitate to take action. With the right expert, you may be able to find a simple and easy solution to your foundation issues.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/7287506
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