A monthly newsletter courtesy of BK Home Inspections
In This Issue
Household Tip
Week's Wit
Pre-sale Inspections
Mold Behind Wallpaper
How to keep your basement dry
Moisture and Masonry
Mold Facts
Plants That Clean Your Indoor Air
Double-pane windows
Energy Tips
Are you Green?
The New Castle Group
Contact Info
Call BK for
______________


Fun Time Teaser

 

Question:

What is an interstitial space in your home?

1. The air in a crawlapace.

2. Spaces between walls or between wall coverings.

3. Another word for attic.

 
Household Tip

Lime & Mineral Deposits
 
Place vinegar-soaked paper towels around faucets for one hour. Not only does it break down the mineral scale, but the chrome will be clean and shiny.

 
Things To Do This Month

 

1. Dust the blades of your ceiling fans.

2. Rinse the grime and road salt off your garage floor.

3. Replace furnace filter.

4. Check for ice damming.

5. Check for gutter leaks.

6. Check waste and water supply pipes for leaks.

7. Test GFCI's

8. Lubricate garage door hardware and rollers.

9. Tighten garage door hinges.

10. Touch up caulk around bathtub and faucets.

Week's Wit

What happens if you get scared half to death, twice?

 

 
Fun time Teaser Answer

 

Any of the choices are correct.

INTERSTITIAL SPACES
Interstitial spaces are spaces between walls or between wall coverings. A technical example is a construction assembly between the interior and exterior of a building which creates a micro-climate between the two helping to decrease the amount of energy to heat or cool a building. Joist bays in main floor ceilings are often left uninsulated. In homes with unheated garages, air pressure created by wind can move significant amounts of cold air from the garage into the home through these joist bays.

Contact Info
Bob Beisbier
BK Home Inspections LLC
S95 W32855 Hickorywood Tr
Mukwonago, WI 53149
262-993-7755
Certified Master Inspector (CMI)
RHI# 1035-106
ASHI# 212809
InterNACHI #NACHI08082601
DILHR Certified
Infrared Certified
Green Certified
Member WAHI
Member BBB
[email protected] 


 

  
BK News

Mention this newsletter and get $20 off a home inspection!

The best time to learn about the condition and workings of a house is during a pre-purchase home inspection. We will give you valuable information about the home's operating systems and a detailed report that you can use as a reference for repairs and maintenance. When we are done you will have a clear understanding of the property conditions.

 

 

Is there an topic that you would like to see discussed? Please let me know and I will add it into next month's newsletter. Thanks!

Sincerely,
Bob Beisbier
BK Home Inspections
Honest, Reliable Service
 
Pre-sale Inspections

 

move in certified

Home Sellers
Advantages of selling a home that has been Move In Certified:

  • The seller can choose a certified InterNACHI/ASHI inspector to inspect the home properly before the buyer's inspector arrives.
  • The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience.
  • It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active pest infestation.
  • The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
  • The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
  • The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
  • The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.
  • A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:
  • might make the home show better.
  • gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
  • permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
  • removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.
  • The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
  • The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
  • A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report hosted on www.FetchReport.com to be used as a marketing tool.
  • Move In Certified yard signs attract potential buyers.
  • A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.
  • The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
  • A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
  • The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
  • The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.
  • The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Need an inspector to pre-certify your home? Call BK

 
Mold behind wallpaper

Owners and managers of buildings with vinyl wallpaper on exterior walls must be aware of the potential problems with drying walls that have become wet. When a minor moisture problem develops, whether from a leak or from the migration of water vapor, vinyl wallpaper may not allow the exterior walls to dry normally. When a major moisture issue occurs, such as a leaking chimney flashing, the wallpaper may negate drying efforts. As a result, the following recommendations should be considered:

  • Use a moisture meter to detect high moisture levels. CAUTION: The same property that makes wallpaper impervious to moisture may cause false negative readings with some types of moisture meters. Use a moisture meter that is equipped with pins to penetrate the wallpaper, or a pinless meter that relies on a radio frequency transceiver rather than a measure of impedance.
  • In situations where a significant leak has affected walls finished with vinyl wallpaper, the wallpaper may need to be removed to allow the wall to dry in time to prevent fungal growth.
  • With certain types of masonry wall construction, avoiding vinyl wallpaper or similar wall coverings on the inside surface of exterior walls may be the best course to prevent trapping excess moisture that can lead to fungal growth.
  • If finishing exterior walls with vinyl wallpaper is deemed necessary for aesthetic or durability reasons, various wallpaper options should be discussed. For example, newer vinyl wall coverings are available with perforations that reduce its vapor trapping qualities. 
     
How to keep your basement dry
 

How Rainwater Backs up into your Basement

If you have poor surface drainage or problems with gutters and downspouts, you are inviting rainwater into your basement. Drainage systems are not designed to handle excessive surface water. If water floods around your basement, water will come in.

 

Water From the Sump Pump

Your house may have a sump pump. A sump pump is designed to collect the water from your basement drain tile system. Water can back up from this sump pump if the electrical power goes out, the flow is too great, the discharge is blocked, or the pump malfunctions. This storm water may overflow the sump pump crock, run down the floor drain into the sanitary sewer, and/or flood your basement.

Water From the Walls, Window Wells, Cracks, and Floors Water may leak into your basement because of poor surface grading or problems with gutters, downspouts, and sump pump discharges. Leaks can also be caused by problems with the palmer valve, drain tile, storm sewer lines, or window wells. 

Symptoms of Drainage Problems 
Active water leaks near the basement floor indicate problems with drain tile and surface damage. Active water leaks higher on the wall usually indicate a surface water drainage problem or a broken drain or supply line. A problem with window or door flashing, window sills, a roof leak, or brick veneer could also cause a leak on a basement wall. Efflorescence or salt stains indicate that water is pushing through the masonry surface and depositing these white or tan salt stains. Water stains, damp spots, mildew, and chipping splintering of masonry indicate that water is pushing through the masonry.  
Dampness, odor, mold, mildew, and condensation indicate that water is pushing through surfaces or leaking into the structure. High levels of moisture in basement air can also cause these problems. Wood rot, wood movement, and stains on wood and

drywall indicate leaks and moisture behind finishes. Cracks and wall movement may indicate an unstable foundation wall caused by drainage problems. Damp walls and floors with a dry sump pump crock indicate a drain tile or sump pump problem. Roots in the sump crock indicate a potentially serious drain tile blockage and drainage problem.

 

AVOIDING AND CORRECTING PROBLEMS

 You can avoid or solve most basement seepage problems by following these simple corrective steps, which are listed in order of priority.

1. Keep gutters and downspouts clean, and direct them away from the basement. Downspouts must be routed to a storm sewer or at least 6 feet away from the foundation to an area where the water flows away naturally.

 2. Grade soft surfaces. All surface water must flow away from foundation walls. Soil should pitch away from the basement, dropping 6 inches for every 6 feet. The soil under any bark or stone mulch around your home must pitch away; ideally, any plastic under the mulch will pitch away too. Check under decks and porches. During a heavy rain, walk around your home to check for pooling water. No water should pool around or flow toward your basement walls.

 3. Grade hard surfaces. All concrete and asphalt surfaces must pitch away from the basement. Watch for slab concrete beneath decks. Check all stoops, drives, and walks.

 4. Grade the soil around window wells to direct water away. Seal the window well tightly to the foundation, and keep the inside of the well clean. The inside of the windowshould have a base of 6" gravel-not mud. Also, the window well should either have its own drain or should into the exterior drain tile system through the gravel base.

 5. Check the palmer valve. This check valve must swing of improper materials easily broken by frost. Also, many open easily to drain water from the drain tile system. If it is stuck closed, water may back up in your basement, and eventually the drain tiles will become plugged with debris. Use a wire to hook the bottom of this round flap valve; it should swing upward on a hinge at the top of the disc. If the valve is stuck, free it with penetrating oil and a pry bar.

 6. Check the sump pump. The float must easily move up and down to activate the pump. If the float sticks, you will have a flood. Make sure that the pump is secure and will not allow the float to stick to the sides of the crock or the cover. Lift the float to check that the pump will remove water from the crock; the pump should switch on when the float is 8 to 12 inches from the top of the crock. If the pump allows higher water levels than this, seepage near the floor may occur. Replace a sump pump that is old and worn. If your pump runs often, have a spare sump pump handy.

 7. Look for gaps and cracks in joints. These can allow water to seep next to the basement. The gaps can be filled with a backer rod and concrete joint filler.

 8. Check for cracks in poured concrete walls or block walls. These should be evaluated and patched by a professional.

 9. Check for problems with underground storm drain lines. If damp spots and seepage appear near a sump pump or downspout storm sewer line, the problem may be a broken or plugged underground line. You can test this line by running water into the pipe with a hose and watching for seepage in the basement. You can also temporarily abandon the undergound line and route the sump pump or downspout to the surface, well away from your home. If seepage no longer appears in the basement, you'll know the problem is a broken drain line.

 10. Investigate underground water supply lines. If seepage occurs near the water main into your home, suspect a broken underground water line.

 11. Investigate all homeowner-installed underground drain lines. Often they are unable to withstand freezing because they are installed too near the surface and/or they're made of improper materials easily broken by frost. Also, many such lines can't effectively carry water away from the foundation because they have poor pitch or are undersized. Temporarily abandon these lines to test them. If you see water bubbling up from connections to these lines, you have a problem.


12. Watch for roots in the sump pump crock. Roots inside the crock mean there are roots in the bleeders and in the outside drain tiles. An expert should evaluate this problem.

Moisture and Masonry

Efflorescence efflorescence
 

Masonry, including concrete, is porous and moisture is able to travel through it. As moisture passes through masonry, for example a foundation wall, it encounters and dissolves salt cry

stals. When this moisture reaches the inner surface of the foundation wall, the moisture evaporates, leaving behind the white salt crystals. This is a common condition and the white deposits are called "efflorescence." Efflorescence or salt stains indicate that water is pushing through the masonry surface and depositing these white or tan salt stains. Water stains, damp spots, mildew, and chipping splintering of masonry indicate that water is pushing through the masonry. This should alet you that corrective action should be considered. The most common of these corrective measures is proper grading, and surface water drainage.

 

 

Mold Facts

 

What is Mold?
 
Molds are fungi and mold fungi are everywhere--every single home has mold. Fungi form 25% of the earth's biomass and in general are a natural, necessary part of the global environment.

Mold usually exists in colonies so small that they can't be seen. It isn't until mold colonies grow dense enough to be visible that they begin to become a health concern to most people.

Mold fungi reproduce by releasing microscopic spores which are similar to seeds in that spores will produce more fungus. Given the right conditions (the correct temperature, moisture levels and food), fungal colonies can produce enough spores to grow at a phenomenal rate. Enough spores can affect indoor air quality.

Health Risks from Mold 

Unfortunately for mold fungi, competition for food exists even between mold species. In an effort to win the food battle, toxigenic mold species have developed toxins (called mycotoxins) to use against their fungal competition. Disagreement exists regarding the overall degree of danger mycotoxins represent to humans.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Mold Website and the U.S. Centers for Disease Control Mold Website both agree that high levels of spore concentrations in indoor air are the health hazards most commonly related to mold. Elevated spore concentrations in indoor air can especially affect those with weakened immune systems, lung disease, allergies, asthma or those who have become sensitized.

Those with weakened immune systems may also be at risk from fungal infections, some types of which may be fatal.

Mold Indicates Moisture 

Mold fungi typically require moisture levels in materials above 20% to reproduce, so the presence of mold in a home indicates a moisture problem. At moisture levels below about 20% mold fungus activity will stop.

The actual moisture levels at which fungal activity will start and stop varies with the type of fungi and with moisture characteristics of the atmosphere. For this reason, a moisture meter can't be used to accurately determine whether conditions exist which will encourage or prevent fungal growth.

Wood decay fungi cause damage to wood structures by attacking and weakening wood cells. By the time wood decay (rot) becomes visible, wood may have lost up to 50% of its strength. Early (incipient) decay can be extremely difficult to identify, even with a microscope.

"Dry rot" is a misleading term, since decay fungi must have moisture to be active. Need an inspector to mold test your home? Call BK

The natural way to clean air in your home.

Common house plants such as the Boston fern, English ivy, and spider plant are inexpensive, ecologically sound, aesthetically pleasing ways to filter toxins from your home, particularly during these winter months when you are likely to spend most of your time closed up indoors with the windows shut. A single Boston fern can remove 1,800 micrograms of formaldehyde from the air (nearly the total amount found in the EPA study) in about an hour.

Some plants, of course, are especially good at filtering certain pollutants. The areca palm, for example, is the most effective filter of xylene. Other plants, such as Boston ferns, chrysanthemums, and dwarf date palms, are better at removing formaldehyde.

The Foliage for Clean Air Council, a communications clearinghouse for information on the use of foliage to improve indoor air quality, recommends a minimum of two plants per 100 square feet of floor space in an average home with eight- to ten-foot ceilings. Fill your home with as many plants as you can.

If you're not ready to fill your house with plants, start on a smaller scale by selecting plants that are known to remove the most worrisome pollutants. Four species were particularly efficient in filtering formaldehyde, benzene, xylene, and carbon monoxide. Introducing these plants into your home can significantly reduce the concentration of these chemicals and possibly hundreds of others. Although the calculations of the buildup and dispersion of pollutants in a home are complex, these plants can drastically improve the air you breathe. The actual rates at which the plants clean the air will vary depending on the size of the plant, the temperature, and how polluted the air is, among other things.

BOSTON FERN

Nephrolepsis exaltata bostoniensis 

Type: Hanging perennial

 

Main Pollutant Removed: Formaldehyde, at a rate of 1,863 micrograms per hour.

 

Other Pollutants Removed: Xylene, at a rate of 208 micrograms per hour

 

Recommended placement in Home: If you've recently bought new furniture or carpeting, place one or two Boston ferns in each of the appropriate rooms.

 

Cost: An eight- to ten-inch hanging plant costs $10 to $25.


Care: They are easy to grow in medium to bright light. As with most plants, water them only when the soil feels dry.

ENGLISH IVY

Hedera helix 

Type: Hanging perennial.

 

Main Pollutant Removed: Benzene; the plant removed 90 percent from a sealed chamber.

 

Other Pollutants Removed: Formaldehyde, at a rate of 1,120 micrograms per hour. Xylene, at a rate of 131 micrograms per hour.

 

Recommended Placement in Home: These are especially effective in a room that has been freshly painted or carpeted. They're also beneficial in a room that contains plastic equipment or furnishings (computers, printers, fax machines) or ink.

 

Cost: A five-inch potted plant costs from $5 to $30.


Care: These plants are easy to grow in bright light.

ARECA PALM

Chrysalidocarpus lutescens 

Type: Upright perennial.

 

Main Pollutant Removed: Xylene, at a rate of 654 micrograms per hour.

 

Other Pollutants Removed: Formaldehyde, at a rate of 938 micrograms per hour.

 

Recommended Placement in Home: Areca palms can be used effectively in virtually any room, but are especially useful in those that are carpeted or contain freshly varnished furniture.

 

Cost: A ten-inch potted Areca palm costs $20 to $50.


Care: These plants grow well in the sun. They need year-round warmth, ample humidity, and filtered sunlight.

SPIDER PLANT

Chlorophytum comosum 

Type: Trailing perennial.

 

Main Pollutant Removed: Carbon monoxide; the plant removed over 96 percent of this potentially deadly gas.

 

Other Pollutants Removed: Xylene, at a rate of 268 micrograms per hour. Formaldehyde, at a rate of 560 micrograms per hour.

 

Recommended Placement in Home: These are useful in kitchens with gas stoves or in rooms with fireplaces, where carbon monoxide may accumulate.

 

Cost: A ten-inch hanging spider plant costs between $10 and $15.


Care: They are easy to grow in bright to medium light.

JANET CRAIG/STRIPED DRACAENA

Dracaena deremensis 

Type: Upright perennial.

 

Main Pollutants Removed: Formaldehyde, at a rate of 1,361 micrograms per hour. Xylene, at a rate of l54 micrograms per hour.

 

Recommended Placement in Home: These are especially effective in newly carpeted or newly furnished rooms.

 

Cost: An eight- to ten-inch potted Janet Craig costs $15 to $50.


Care: This plant needs bright to medium light, and can reach heights of fifteen feet, although it is best kept smaller.

Double-pane windows failure

Double-pane windows are windows which each have two panes of glass. The air space between the inner and outer panes acts as insulation, reducing heat loss, saving on heating costs and increasing home comfort levels. This space is often filled with a type of inert gas which increases the window's insular properties.

The inner and outer panes are separated by a perimeter strip filled with a desiccant which absorbs moisture vapor so that no condensation forms on the glass. The two panes and desiccant strip form a single assembly which is held within the window frame. Moisture can infiltrate the window assembly through solar pumping. Over time, desiccant strips become saturated and can no longer absorb moisture. When this happens, condensation will become visible under certain conditions.

Double-pane assemblies which have only recently failed can sometimes be repaired. Repair involves drilling two holes into the space between panes and allowing moisture trapped in the desiccant to evaporate.

Windows which have been exhibiting condensation problems for long periods and which show a white haze often cannot be repaired and must be replaced. It is usually more cost effective to replace an entire window.

Failure of the seal is indicated only if moisture is between panes. Moisture on the inside of window glass indicates high indoor humidity. 

Window Replacement Recommendations 

Although new double-pane windows are more energy-efficient and provide more comfort, windows are expensive. Replacing windows in a 3,000 square foot home may cost $25,000 or more. Although comfort levels will increase with upgraded windows, payback time can be 100 years! Think carefully before replacing your windows.

 Energy Tips

Programmable Thermostats

 
Programmable thermostats reduce heating and cooling costs by allowing the heating and cooling equipment to be operated only when they're needed.

They are more accurate, contain no mercury and help reduce heating costs. They also allow circulation fans to be run without operating heating or cooling systems. Operating the heating/cooling system blower without activating the cooling system can make the home seem cooler and help reduce cooling costs.

Using a programmable thermostat, heating and air-conditioning schedules can be adjusted according to a pre-set schedule. As a result, the equipment doesn't operate as much when it's not needed. Programmable thermostats can store and repeat multiple daily settings (six or more temperature settings a day) which you can manually override without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly program.

Furnace Efficiency
Efficiency Comparisons: EnergyGuide Labels
EnergyGuide labels provide information used to compare the energy consumption of similar appliances.

The largest number on the guide states the estimated annual operating cost of the appliance. Some equipment, such as ovens or clothes dryers, may have two large numbers - one for electric, one for natural gas.

One of the most helpful features of the Energy Guide is a sliding scale that compares the appliance you're looking at to other models and brands. When you're comparing appliances, be sure to compare between models of similar size and capacity.

Energy Use in Home Lighting

Lighting accounts for 30% to 50% of a building's energy use, or about 17% of total annual U.S. electricity consumption. Ninety percent of the energy emitted by incandescent bulbs is in the form of heat, and only 10% is in the form of light. This means that not only is money wasted on inefficient lighting, but using incandescent bulbs lights increases cooling costs.

TYPES of LIGHTING
Compact Florescent
Generate 70% less heat, they're safer to operate and can cut energy costs associated with home cooling.
Use at least 2/3 less energy than standard incandescent bulbs to provide the same amount of light, and last up to 10 times longer.
Save $30 or more in energy costs over each bulb's lifetime.
Must turn on instantly, produce no sound, and fall within a warm color range or be otherwise labeled as providing cooler color tones, in addition to other quality requirements.
Are available in different sizes and shapes to fit in almost any fixture, for indoors and outdoors.
Where to Use CFLs:
To get the most energy savings, replace bulbs where lights are on the most, such as your family and living room, kitchen, dining room, and porch, with CFLs.

Although they are manufactured for use in recessed light fixtures, some CFLs have trouble operating in enclosed fixtures.

 Are you Green?

Here are 20 questions to answer to find out if you are "green"

1. Are most of your walls and ceilings painted with a light color?
2. Do you believe your home is free of mold?
3. Would you describe your house as tall as opposed to wide?
4. Does your kitchen have a built-in recycling center?
5. Are your windows double glazed?
6. Do you have deciduous trees providing sun in the winter and shade in the summer?
7. If you have a pool, does it have a cover?
8. Is most of your carpeting light-colored?
9. Is your attic well insulated?
10. Are most of your shower heads low flow, water saving types?
11. Do some of your light fixtures have dimmers?
12. Does your dryer vent to the exterior?
13. Do you have a whole house or ceiling fan?
14. Does your house mostly face south?
15. Are all of your faucets drip free?
16. Is your furnace filter clean?
17. Is your thermostat programmable?
18. Does your dishwasher have an energy saving cycle?
19. Does your thermostat have a "fan only" option?
20. Is your furnace high efficiency?

 The New Castle Group

This month's notable service provider goes to  The New Castle group.
    
   The New Castle Group does general contractor work for residential and commercial customers through out SE Wisconsin. If it is a kitchen or bath remodel, adding a rec room, or a roof and siding job needed, New Castle is the one to call. Max Davidson runs the show and oversees all the projects with his hands on experience. Extremely competitive pricing and meticulous workmanship makes this company stand out. I have personally worked with Max and would refer him to anyone.
 
 
Cell Phone # 414-324-1033

Office Phone#262-780-1560

 

 

 


 
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