A monthly newsletter courtesy of BK Home Inspections
In This Issue
Household Tip
Week's Wit
Radon Action Month
Tankless Water Heaters
Home Energy Tune-ups
Ice Dams
A Little Humor
Winter To Do List
Energy Tips
Acupuncture & Holistic Health Associates.
Air Cleaners
Contact Info
Call BK for
______________


Fun Time Teaser

 

Question:

On your gas and electric bill you see "Heating Degree Days". What is that?

1. Average number of days of the heating season.

2. A measure of how much (in degrees), and for how long (in days),

3. Average energy consumed in a 24 hour period.  

 

See below for the answer.


 

 

 

Household Tip

Clean and deodorize the garbage disposal. Make vinegar ice cubes and feed them down the disposal. After grinding, run cold water through.

 

 

Things To Do This Month

 

1. Check for Ice Dams.

2. Clean and change mesh in humidifier.

3. Schedule a chimney cleaning.

4. Have ice melt handy and make sure sidewalks are clean.

5. Roof rake snow from edges of roof and in valleys. 

6. Check that all handrails are secure

7. Clean all exhaust fans and filters.

8. Check wash machine hoses

9. Check for loose toilets

10. Make plans and get quotes for next years major purchases.

 

 

 

 

Week's Wit

"Take time to repair the roof when the sun is shining."
 

- President John F. Kennedy

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fun time Teaser Answer

 

The answer is #2.

The number of heating degrees in a day is defined as the difference between a reference value of 65�F (18�C) and the average outside temperature for that day. The value of 65�F is taken as a reference point because experience shows that if the outside temperature is this value then no heating or cooling is normally required.

Heating degree-day figures come with a "base temperature", and provide a measure of how much (in degrees), and for how long (in days), the outside temperature was below that base temperature. In the UK, the most readily available heating degree days come with a base temperature of 15.5�C; in the US, it's 65�F.

An example calculation: if the average outside temperature was 10 degrees below the base temperature (65) for 2 days, there would be a total of 20 heating degree days over that period (10 degrees * 2 days = 20 degree days). In reality, the process of calculating degree days is complicated by the fact that outside temperatures vary throughout the day.


 


 

Contact Info
Bob Beisbier
BK Home Inspections LLC
S95 W32855 Hickorywood Tr
Mukwonago, WI 53149
262-993-7755
Certified Master Inspector (CMI)
RHI# 1035-106
ASHI# 212809
InterNACHI #NACHI08082601
DILHR Certified
Infrared Certified
Green Certified
Member WAHI
Member BBB
[email protected] 


 


 
BK News

Bob is now a Certified Master Inspector. 1 of 4 in the state.  

By awarding the Continuing Education/experience-based Certified Master Inspector�  

professional designation, the Master Inspector Certification Board, Inc. supports the inspection industry's advanced education providers and encourages experienced inspectors to maintain excellence.

Certified Master Inspectors�, the very best of the best.   

 

Have a safe and happy new year! 

 

Mention this newsletter and get $20 off a Radon Test!

The best time to learn about the condition and workings of a house is during a pre-purchase home inspection. We will give you valuable information about the home's operating systems and a detailed report that you can use as a reference for repairs and maintenance. When we are done you will have a clear understanding of the property conditions.

  

 

 

 

Is there an topic that you would like to see discussed? Please let me know and I will add it into next month's newsletter. Thanks!

Sincerely,
Bob Beisbier
BK Home Inspections
Honest, Reliable Service
 
January is Radon Action Month
The Facts...

Lung cancer kills thousands of Americans every year. Smoking, radon, and secondhand smoke are the leading causes of lung cancer.  Although lung cancer can be treated, the survival rate is one of the lowest for those with cancer. From the time of diagnosis, between 11 and 15 percent of those afflicted will live beyond five years, depending upon demographic factors. In many cases lung cancer can be prevented.

 

Smoking is the leading cause of lung cancer.  Smoking causes an estimated 160,000* cancer deaths in the U.S. every year (American Cancer Society, 2004).  And the rate among women is rising.  On January 11, 1964, Dr. Luther L. Terry, then U.S. Surgeon General, issued the first warning on the link between smoking and lung cancer.  Lung cancer now surpasses breast cancer as the number one cause of death among women. A smoker who is also exposed to radon has a much higher risk of lung cancer.

 

Radon is the number one cause of lung cancer among non-smokers, according to EPA estimates. Overall, radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer.  Radon is responsible for about 21,000 lung cancer deaths every year. About 2,900 of these deaths occur among people who have never smoked.  On January 13, 2005, Dr. Richard H. Carmona, the U.S. Surgeon General, issued a national health advisory on radon. Read a study by Dr. William Field on radon-related lung cancer in women at  www.cheec.uiowa.edu/misc/radon.html  

 

Secondhand smoke is the third leading cause of lung cancer and responsible for an estimated 3,000 lung cancer deaths every year.  Smoking affects non-smokers by exposing them to secondhand smoke. Exposure to secondhand smoke can have serious consequences for children's health, including asthma attacks, affecting the respiratory tract (bronchitis, pneumonia), and may cause ear infections.

 

Holiday special

Mention this newsletter and get $20 off a Radon Test.

 

 

Considering a Tankless Water Heater?

 

 Tankless water heaters do not contain a storage tank like conventional water heaters. A gas burner or electric element heats water only when tankless WH 

there is a demand for hot water. Hot water never runs out, but the flow rate (gallons of hot water per minute) may be limited. By eliminating standby losses from the tank, energy consumption can be reduced by 10-15%. Before rushing out to buy a demand water heater, be aware that they are not appropriate for every situation. Here are some of the factors to consider:

  • Do you use hot water efficiently? Have you installed modern, low-flow faucets and showerheads? Tankless water heaters perform much better when coupled with efficient uses.
  • Consider your water distribution system. If the hot water uses in your home are relatively close together, with short hot water lines between them, a tankless system may work for you. In many U.S. homes, water uses are widely spaced at opposite ends of the house. If this is the case in your home, a tankless system may not meet your needs.
  • If you have installed high efficiency fixtures and your water lines are not too long, consult an experienced contractor to find out if your gas supply is adequate and proper venting is feasible.
  • Finally, residential wiring generally will not support a tankless electric water heater with large enough capacity to serve multiple uses. If you rely on electricity to heat your water, a tankless system is unlikely to meet your needs. At most, an electric unit may be appropriate for small applications, such as a remote bathroom without a bath tub.

To learn more about tankless water heaters, visit these manufacturers' sites.

 

Bosch www.boschhotwater.com 866-330-2725
Bradford White www.bradfordwhite.com 800-523-2931
Eccotemp www.eccotemp.com 866-356-1992
Infinion www.tanklesswaterheaters.com 800-873-3507
Monitor Products www.monitorproducts.com 800-524-1102
Navien www.navienamerica.com 800-519-8794
Noritz www.noritzamerica.com 866-766-7489
Paloma www.palomawaterheaters.com 800-873-3507
Rheem / Ruud www.rheemtankless.com 866-720-2076
Rinnai www.foreverhotwater.com 866-746-6241
Takagi www.takagi.com 888-882-5244  

Toyotomi www.toyotomiusa.com

 
Home Energy Tune-ups

To reduce utility bills, the first step is to find out where you are wasting energy. 


To do this, you need a residential energy inspection-which should be done by a Certified Energy Inspector who has no financial interest in the improvements recommended.

Home Energy Tune-up


BK will examine, measure, and evaluate the factors that affect energy use in your home, e.g., size of the home, efficiency of appliances, insulation, draftiness of rooms, and efficiency of heating and cooling systems (HVAC).

The information gathered during the energy audit is analyzed using specialized software to produce a comprehensive Home Energy Tune-up Report. The Report shows which energy-efficiency improvements would reduce energy costs and make the home more comfortable. The analysis takes into account regional variables such as local weather, implementation costs, and fuel prices.

The Report contains estimates of the savings, costs and payback for each energy-efficiency recommendation. It identifies the group of improvements that, if financed, will save more on energy bills than it costs. These are the improvements that everyone can make since they require no out-of-pocket cost when financed.

The detailed Recommendations section enables contractors to provide preliminary cost estimates without a visit to your home. It also explains how to get the best energy savings from these improvements by listing related no-cost low-cost measures that you can take.

In most cases, energy efficiency upgrades pay for themselves in a few years through energy savings.

Customers with no money to invest can still afford to invest in energy improvements by financing those items whose monthly energy savings are greater than their costs.

Customers who want to make a wise investment can implement all recommended upgrades to increase home comfort and value further, and to obtain a good non-taxable return.

 

Holiday special

Mention this newsletter and get $50 off a Home Energy Tune-up with Infrared!

Darn Ice Dams

  

What causes ice dams?

 

There is a complex interaction among the amount of heat loss from a house, snow cover, and outside temperatures that leads to ice dam formation. For ice dams to form there must be snow on the roof, and, at the same time, higher portions of the roof's outside surface must be above 32� F while lower surfaces are below 32�F. For a portion of the roof to be below 32�F, outside temperatures must also be below 32�F. When we say temperatures above or below 32�F, we are talking about average temperature over sustained periods of time.
ice dam

 

The snow on a roof surface that is above 32�F will melt. As water flows down the roof it reaches the portion of the roof that is below 32�F and freezes. Voila!-an ice dam.

 

The dam grows as it is fed by the melting snow above it, but it will limit itself to the portions of the roof that are on the average below 32�F. So the water above backs up behind the ice dam and remains a liquid. This water finds cracks and openings in the exterior roof covering and flows into the attic space. From the attic it could flow into exterior walls or through the ceiling insulation and stain the ceiling finish.

 

Nonuniform roof surface temperatures lead to ice dams.

What causes different roof surface temperatures?


Since most ice dams form at the edge of the roof, there is obviously a heat source warming the roof elsewhere. This heat is primarily coming from the house. In rare instances solar heat gain may cause these temperature differences.

 

Heat from the house travels to the roof surface in three ways: conduction, convection, and radiation. Conduction is heat energy traveling through a solid. A good example of this is the heating of a cast iron frying pan. The heat moves from the bottom of the pan to the handle by conduction.

 

If you put your hand above the frying pan, heat will reach it by the other two methods. The air right above the frying pan is heated and rises. The rising air carries heat/energy to your hand. This is heat transfer by convection. In addition, heat is transferred from the hot pan to your hand by electromagnetic waves and this is called radiation. Another example of radiation is to stand outside on a bright sunny day and feel the heat from the sun. This heat is transferred from the sun to you by radiation.

 

In a house, heat moves through the ceiling and insulation by conduction through the slanted portion of the ceiling. In many homes, there is little space in regions like this for insulation, so it is important to use insulation with high R-value per inch to reduce heat loss by conduction.

 

The top surface of the insulation is warmer than the other surroundings in the attic. Therefore, the air just above the insulation is heated and rises, carrying heat by convection to the roof. The higher temperatures in the insulation's top surface compared to the roof sheathing transfers heat outward by radiation. These two modes of heat transfer can be reduced by adding insulation. This will make the top surface temperature of the insulation closer to surrounding attic temperatures directly affecting convection and radiation from this surface.

 

There is another type of convection that transfers heat to the attic space and warms the roof. Beginning inside the house and going through the penetrations in the ceiling, from the light fixture to the attic space, illustrates heat loss by air leakage. In many homes this is the major mode of heat transfer that leads to the formation of ice dams.

Exhaust systems like those in the kitchen or bathroom that terminate just above the roof may also contribute to snow melting. These exhaust systems may have to be moved or extended in areas of high snow fall.

Other sources of heat in the attic space include chimneys. Frequent use of wood stoves and fireplaces allow heat to be transferred from the chimney into the attic space. Inadequately insulated or leaky duct work in the attic space will also be a source of heat. The same can be said about kneewall spaces.

 

Dealing with ice dams

Immediate action:
Remove snow from the roof. This eliminates one of the ingredients necessary for the formation of an ice dam. A "roof rake" and push broom can be used to remove snow, but may damage the roofing materials.

 

In an emergency situation where water is flowing into the house structure, making channels through the ice dam allows the water behind the dam to drain off the roof. Hosing with tap water on a warm day will do this job. Work upward from the lower edge of the dam. The channel will become ineffective within days and is only a temporary solution to ice dam damage. 


Long-term action:
Increase the ceiling/roof insulation to cut down on heat loss by conduction. State code requires an R-value of 38 above the ceiling for new homes. In narrow spaces, use insulation products with high R-value (6-7) per inch. Make the ceiling air tight so no warm air can flow from the house into the attic space. 


Both of these actions will increase the snow load that your roof has to carry because it will no longer melt. Can your roof carry the additional load? If it is built to current codes, there should not be a structural problem. Roofs, like the rest of the home, should have been designed to withstand expected snow loads. In Minnesota, plans showing design details to meet expected snow loads are usually required to receive a building permit. The plans for your home may be on file at your local building inspection office. To help you understand the plans, or if you cannot find plans for your home, you may want to contact an architectural engineering firm. A professional engineer should be able to evaluate the structure of your home and answer your questions about the strength of your roof.

 

Natural roof ventilation can help maintain uniform roof temperatures, but if the long-term actions described here are done effectively, then only small amounts of roof ventilation are needed to maintain uniform roof surface temperatures. If heat transfer has been reduced substantially, then snow will build up on the roof and cover natural roof ventilation systems, reducing attic ventilation rates. Natural attic ventilation systems are needed to dry the attic space and remove heat buildup during the summer. 


Mechanical attic ventilation IS NOT a recommended solution to ice dams. It can create other attic moisture problems and may cause undesirable negative pressure in the home.

 

Weatherization contractors, who may be listed under Energy Management and Conservation Consultants or Insulation Contractors in the Yellow Pages, are professionals who can deal with the heat transfer problem that creates ice dams. A blower door test should be used by the contractor you hire to evaluate the airtightness of your ceiling. In addition, they may have an infrared camera that can be used to find places in the ceiling where there is excessive heat loss. Call Tim @ Beyond Energy 262-470-3149

 

Interior damage should not be repaired until ceilings and walls are dry. In addition, interior repair should be done together with correcting the heat loss problem that created the ice dam(s) or the damage will occur again.

 

Preventing ice dams in new homes
The proper new construction practices to prevent ice dams begin with following or exceeding the state code requirements for ceiling/roof insulation levels.

 

The second absolutely necessary practice is to construct a continuous, 100% effective air barrier through the ceiling. There should not be any air leakage from the house into the attic space!

 

Recessed lights, skylights, complicated roof designs, and heating ducts in the attic will all increase the risk of ice dam formation.

 
 A Little Humor

George Carlin's new rule ...

New Rule: If you ever hope to be a credible adult and want a job that pays better than minimum wage, then for God's sake don't pierce or tattoo every available piece of flesh. If so, then plan your future around saying, "Do you want fries with that?" 


 Winter To Do List
  • Install extra insulation.
  • Install plastic sheets on windows requiring extra protection from the wind (kits are widely available at hardware stores or home centers). Add weather stripping around doors if necessary.
  • Prepare for snow. In snowy areas of the country, make sure your shovel or snowblower is in good condition. If necessary, use a rock salt-sand mixture to de-ice the driveway.
  • Patch and paint.
  • Inspect interior walls and ceilings for holes or cracks. Patch and paint as necessary. Watch for bubbling or cracking, which could indicate water damage.
  • Check smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Test each unit, and replace batteries if needed.
  • Repair indoor woodwork. Fill any holes or damaged areas with wood putty, then sand and refinish the surface.
  • Maintain appliances Unplug the refrigerator and clean it thoroughly with soap and hot water. Vacuum the condenser coil in the back or bottom of the refrigerator for better energy efficiency. If the drain pan is removable, clean it in soapy water. Clean the inside of the dishwasher, the stove exhaust fan, the inside of the oven, and the microwave.
  • Inspect bathroom caulking.
  • Remove and replace crumbling caulk around the bathtub, sink, or toilet. Make sure no moisture is leaking under the bathtub or shower stall.
  • Protect pipes from freezing. Insulate any water pipes that are exposed to extreme cold (check pipes on the north side of house particularly). Cover outdoor water faucets.
  • Plan home improvement projects. Plan and budget major home improvement projects, such as painting the exterior of the house, building a patio, or making landscape changes. Check with your local building department to see if your projects require permits. In late winter, call contractors to submit bids.
  • Clean and organize the basement. Sweep the floor and clear out cobwebs. Check stored items for moisture damage. Build or purchase storage shelves. Tidy up work areas. Start flower and vegetable seeds in seed trays under lights.

Energy Tips
Electricity use is on the rise in most homes. One reason we're using more electricity is because we're using more electronic equipment. We have home computer systems, home entertainment systems, DVD players, game consoles as well as the traditional home appliances (refrigerators, stoves, washers, etc.). Some of these appliances use electricity even when they are turned off. The average Wisconsin homeowner spends $1000- $1500 per year on electricity to run their appliances and household electronic equipment.

If you're trying to decide whether to invest in a more energy-efficient appliance or you'd like to determine your electricity loads, you may want to estimate appliance energy consumption.

 

Formula for Estimating Energy Consumption

You can use this formula to estimate an appliance's energy use:

(Wattage � Hours Used Per Day) � 1000 = Daily Kilowatt-hour (kWh) consumption 1 kilowatt (kW) = 1,000 Watts

Multiply this by the number of days you use the appliance during the year for the annual consumption. You can then calculate the annual cost to run an appliance by multiplying the kWh per year by your local utility's rate per kWh consumed.

 

Note: To estimate the number of hours that a refrigerator actually operates at its maximum wattage, divide the total time the refrigerator is plugged in by three. Refrigerators, although turned "on" all the time, actually cycle on and off as needed to maintain interior temperatures.

 

Examples:

Window fan: (200 Watts � 4 hours/day � 120 days/year) � 1000 

= 96 kWh � 12.5 cents/kWh= $12/year

Personal Computer and Monitor: (150 Watts � 4 hours/day � 365 days/year) � 1000 = 394 kWh � 12.5 cents/kWh= $49.25/year

 

Wattage

You can usually find the wattage of most appliances stamped on the bottom or back of the appliance, or on its nameplate. The wattage listed is the maximum power drawn by the appliance. Since many appliances have a range of settings (for example, the volume on a radio), the actual amount of power consumed depends on the setting used at any one time.

 

If the wattage is not listed on the appliance, you can still estimate it by finding the current draw (in amperes) and multiplying that by the voltage used by the appliance. Most appliances in the United States use 120 volts. Larger appliances, such as clothes dryers and electric cooktops, use 240 volts. The amperes might be stamped on the unit in place of the wattage. If not, find a clamp-on ammeter-an electrician's tool that clamps around one of the two wires on the appliance-to measure the current flowing through it. You can obtain this type of ammeter in stores that sell electrical and electronic equipment. Take a reading while the device is running; this is the actual amount of current being used at that instant.

 

When measuring the current drawn by a motor, note that the meter will show about three times more current in the first second that the motor starts than when it is running smoothly.

 

Many appliances continue to draw a small amount of power when they are switched "off." These "phantom loads" occur in most appliances that use electricity, such as VCRs, televisions, stereos, computers, and kitchen appliances. Most phantom loads will increase the appliance's energy consumption a few watt-hours. These loads can be avoided by unplugging the appliance or using a power strip and using the switch on the power strip to cut all power to the appliance.

 

Typical Wattages of Various Appliances

Here are some examples of the range of nameplate wattages for various household appliances:

  • Aquarium = 50-1210 Watts
  • Clock radio = 10
  • Coffee maker = 900-1200
  • Clothes washer = 350-500
  • Clothes dryer = 1800-5000
  • Dishwasher = 1200-2400 (using the drying feature greatly increases energy consumption)
  • Dehumidifier = 785
  • Electric blanket- Single/Double = 60 / 100
  • Fans
    • Ceiling = 65-175
    • Window = 55-250
    • Furnace = 750
    • Whole house = 240-750
  • Hair dryer = 1200-1875
  • Heater (portable) = 750-1500
  • Clothes iron = 1000-1800
  • Microwave oven = 750-1100
  • Personal computer
    • CPU - awake / asleep = 120 / 30 or less
    • Monitor - awake / asleep = 150 / 30 or less
    • Laptop = 50
  • Radio (stereo) = 70-400
  • Refrigerator (frost-free, 16 cubic feet) = 725
  • Televisions (color)
    • 19" = 65-110
    • 27" = 113
    • 36" = 133
    • 53"-61" Projection = 170
    • Flat screen = 120
  • Toaster = 800-1400
  • Toaster oven = 1225
  • VCR/DVD = 17-21 / 20-25
  • Vacuum cleaner = 1000-1440
  • Water heater (40 gallon) = 4500-5500
  • Water pump (deep well) = 250-1100
  • Water bed (with heater, no cover) = 120-380
USING A WATT METER TO MEASURE APPLIANCE ENERGY USE
A watt meter is an electronic instrument that can help you determine exactly how much energy your appliances are using. Plug the meter into the appliance and you can measure how much electricity your appliances are using and what they are costing you. The meter will display wattage, cumulative kilowatt hours and cumulative cost. In many Wisconsin communities, you can borrow a watt meter from your public library. The amount of electricity used is measured as a kilowatthour, which is equal to one kilowatt (or 1,000 watts) of electricity used steadily for one hour. For example, ten 100-watt light bulbs, left on for one hour, would use one kilowatt-hour (or 1,000 watt hours) of electricity.

More info is available on our website (click here) 

Acupuncture & Holistic Health Associates
This month's notable service provider goes to Curry Chaudoir of Acupuncture & Holistic Health Associates.
 Milwaukee Magazine's top holistic health care provider. Acupuncture & Holistic Health Associates is helping make Milwaukee a more balanced, less painful, healthier, even happier place, one patient at a time with 2000-year-old-cutting-edge, state of the art holistic health care. Be on your way to a better you with your free holistic health care assessment, contact Acupuncture & Holistic Health Associates of Milwaukee today. His number is 414-332-8888

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y--wkXvTVxA&feature=player_embedded#!
http://www.holisticacupuncture.net

In Bay shore Mall at 500 W Silver Spring Dr, Ste K-205, Milwaukee, WI

 

Air Cleaners

There are many types and sizes of air cleaners on the market, ranging from relatively inexpensive table-top models to sophisticated and expensive whole-house systems. Some air cleaners are highly effective at particle removal, while others, including most table-top models, are much less so. Air cleaners are generally not designed to remove gaseous pollutants.

The effectiveness of an air cleaner depends on how well it collects pollutants from indoor air (expressed as a percentage efficiency rate) and how much air it draws through the cleaning or filtering element (expressed in cubic feet per minute). A very efficient collector with a low air-circulation rate will not be effective, nor will a cleaner with a high air-circulation rate but a less efficient collector. The long-term performance of any air cleaner depends on maintaining it according to the manufacturer's directions.

Another important factor in determining the effectiveness of an air cleaner is the strength of the pollutant source. Table-top air cleaners, in particular, may not remove satisfactory amounts of pollutants from strong nearby sources. People with a sensitivity to particular sources may find that air cleaners are helpful only in conjunction with concerted efforts to remove the source.

Over the past few years, there has been some publicity suggesting that houseplants have been shown to reduce levels of some chemicals in laboratory experiments. There is currently no evidence, however, that a reasonable number of houseplants remove significant quantities of pollutants in homes and offices. Indoor houseplants should not be over-watered because overly damp soil may promote the growth of microorganisms which can affect allergic individuals.

At present, EPA does not recommend using air cleaners to reduce levels of radon and its decay products. The effectiveness of these devices is uncertain because they only partially remove the radon decay products and do not diminish the amount of radon entering the home. EPA plans to do additional research on whether air cleaners are, or could become, a reliable means of reducing the health risk from radon.


 
Certifications/Memberships
ASHIBBB Home Air Check   Infared CertifiedNACHI