Andy,

What is your favorite technique for applying pure flouros (either Block or Powders).  I've seen videos before but I'm still not sure if I am doing it "right". What seems to happen with me is that after I cork (or iron and cork if using a powder) I am left with a fine powder of flouro on the skis.  From there I brush it "up" by going back and forth lightly with a brush and then cork it in again.  It seems like I can continually brush the powder up and then cork it in without the powder really going anywhere.  When does the time come to brush the powder "out".  Is it ok to leave that powder or some of that powder on the skis?  I just have a hard time taking all the powder off after all expense (both in $$ and in corking) to get that powder on the skis.

Thanks Erik

Hi Erik,

Great questions regarding waxing with Fluor powders and/or blocks.

I am going to break this into two segments blocks and powders. 

Fluor Block Application:

Take the fluor block wax and carefully rub it back and forth onto the ski. A common mistake people make is to apply too much force when applying the block and you end up with lots of little pieces that can be difficult to work with.

After applying block there are two methods of heating up the fluor so that it adheres to the base.

Block Method 1) Corking

After applying the block take a natural hand cork and work the fluor into the ski by moving the cork back and forth quickly to create friction. This can also be done with with a roto cork however a common misconception is that this can only be done with a roto. The superior method is actually do use a hand cork, Roto corking is effective for coaches who need to apply block to a large number of skis. 

After corking in the block use a fluor brush to brush out the wax. This can be done using a scrubbing method. After brushing use a piece fiber cloth to remove excess residue that you described Erik.

START - Application of block glider - version 1

Block Method 2)

In an effort to make the block last longer first iron in the fluor moving quickly in order to not burn the base then cork, let the base cool and brush out as described above.

START - Application of block glider - version 2

Fluor Powder Application

Fluor powders are superior to block because of their increased durability in long races. If you are worried about fumes or burning your base stick with block application. The drawback of block application is that it is not going to last as long on the base.

Sprinkle the fluor powder evenly onto the base down both sides of the groove.  Do not skimp on application as this risks burning the base and the fluor job not going to be as effective.

Set your iron at a very high temperature in order to properly melt the powder. Powders are similar to gliders in that a colder powder is going to require a higher iron temperature.

You can then do one of two things: If you iron has a beveled edge run it over the powder with some pressure down each side of the groove.For irons without this edge tamp the powder down on the ski. I like to describe this as using the iron to Pac-Man munch down the ski. After tamping it down run the iron down each side of the groove. After ironing in the powder the ski should be almost completely black, no powder still showing

Let the ski cool and then take a fluor brush and begin brushing out the powder. A common mistake here is using too soft of a fluor brush. For cold powders Start recommend our stiffer fluor brush that is effective at pulling all of that powder out of the skis. Wipe the powder off of the ski and continue brushing until you are not pulling up any more. Wipe the ski with fiber cloth and you are ready to rock.

START - Application of powder glider

Note: There are recommendations out there to brush up the fluor powder and then re iron and then to iron it back down prior to wiping it off the ski. We at Start believe in keeping things simple and getting you plnty of rest prior to race day so we would rather you get the job done efficiently and get some needed rest rather than spend the entire night waxing.

You can also watch more Start Wax application videos at this link.

Evan Pengelly

Start Amerca Product Manager Start@endurance-enterprises.com

Candence

Hello!

I'm a subscriber to the SkiPost emails, and had a question that might be worthy of a response :)

In the summer I'm a cyclist, and the goal in cycling - for ultimate efficiency - is to keep a high cadence. How does this transfer to skiing, specifically striding? I'm guessing that one should do "what feels right," but I find that if I'm focusing on a strong kick and long glide, but cadence slows. Should I be working to keep a high cadence?

Thanks for any reply, you guys do a great job, please keep up the good work!

DM

Dear DM,

Jon Engen goes into greater detail below. but one ( large) difference between skiing and cycling is the lack of mechanical advantage in gears in skiing that you have in cycling. High RPM's in cycling are good and always obtainable because you can change gears and keep pretty much the same technique to maintain a set RPM. But in skiing you cannot change any actual gears you can only change technique. I feel most people do not glide enough and go to the next ski to quickly. (often because they do not work on their balance and a complete stride) If more people learned how to glide more they would enjoy skating much more ( and go faster.) Work on the big things first.

Andy at SkiPost

Dear Dan,

You correctly point out the importance of high cadence in efficient power generation on a bicycle.  Without any numerical references, bicycle racers spin at higher frequencies than untrained cyclist for good reasons.  Also, recent research shows that pedaling at slower cadence has its applications in bicycle racing.  Keep in mind that cycling is minimally weight bearing. 

Running is 100% weight bearing and each stride packs significant impact with the ground.  As the forward displacement is minimal while on each foot, the quick turnover supports the "in-flight" travel better than longer strides.  We clearly see elite runners move at quicker cadence than recreational joggers. 

Although metabolically very similar to cycling and running, cross-country skiing is weight bearing and has the added dimension of gliding in a weight bearing position.  Forward propulsion is generated with an impulse-momentum kick-exchange as an integral part of the glide, and all forward displacement includes ground contact.  The whole body is at work with full foot to foot across-the-body weight shift in all classic and skate techniques except straight double poling.  In other words, much more is taking place during each stride sequence than in cycling and running.  Your priorities need to be:

1.  In faster fitness or competition style skiing, coordinate the posture, positioning and weight shift for sustainable, effective forward propulsion and work at a cadence allowing all these items to take place.  Well trained athletes with advanced skill-set and overall physique will master a higher effective cadence than Joe Citizen skier. 
2. At slower speeds and lower output, maintain full movement, hold back on the forces put into each kick-exchange and maintain a swift, light rhythm. 
3. Your work frequency must be balanced with your skiing abilities, regardless where you are on the skill and fitness scale.  Difference in body types, age, terrain, equipment, ski and snow conditions, etc., will also impact what is the most effective operating cadence.

 In summary, good turnover makes for efficient aerobic continuity.  However, the skier's priority in generating sustainable speed is using efficient ski motions; overall work efficiency is then balanced with a turnover matching the skier's skill set and physical ability. 

I hope that helps - Good Luck! 

Best for 2014,  -jon engen http://www.xcskicoach.com/

 Race Wax Suggestions

follow this link 

To select a wax at the best hardness you will want to know Temperatures and Snow Age and Condition .

• Race time temps and overnight low. If it will be much colder (and clear sky) overnight than the air temp will be throughout the race then the snow will act colder than the race time temp. So look at the wax temp suggestions and if between two waxes select the colder wax. If you are in the shade or wind blown throughout the race the snow will also act colder than the air.
• If the snow is new (less then 24 hours) you can add a graphite underlayer to reduce static. 
• If snow is very dirty or coarse/artificial you will want to use a Molybdenum wax (ie Start BM line). Moly acts as a dry lubricant to keep the dirt off.  More Fluors help in dirt.
• The newer the snow,(and the less grooming)  the sharper its crystals and the more exact you need to be with wax selection.  New snow is less forgiving than old snow,

To select the necessary Fluor level you will want to know: 

• Air humidity (and/or snow surface moisture) low, medium, or high: 
• If relative humidity is low < 33% (you cannot make a snow ball and you did not need to scrape your car's windshield) Fluor is likely to add very little speed (unless the snow is dirty see below). 
• If humidity is 33%< medium > 66% (you can make a snow ball with effort and it took you 1 minute to scrape your car's windshield) use a LF glider to manage medium moisture.
•  If humidity is high > 66% (you want to have a snowball fight and you spent 10 minutes scraping your car's windshield) or snow is very dirty you want a HF glider (and Pur Fluor on top) to manage high moisture (and dirt).
• Dirt level.
• The dirtier the snow the more High and Pur Fluors help.  
• Distance - the longer the race the more High and Pur Fluors help keep the skis clean and fast.
• Speed - the higher your average speed the more you want flours to manage the water layer that you develop at the higher speeds. A downhill race benefits from High and Pure Fluor than an uphill race.

 If unsure: always wax colder, go for more flour, and brush more.

Always apply and iron in glide wax in a warm room and allow to cool down slowly and completely before you scrape and brush.  

It is much easier to make a good to great wax selection every time if you use just on one wax brand. (SkiPost chooses Start Wax ) This way you can more simply select the temp, snow condition and moisture and then not have to interpolate between wax brands. 

For added support from Start Wax you can 

• Compare your selection to the Start Wax Chooser or have it select your wax for you.
• Try the recommendation in the back of the  Start Wax Manual 
• Watch Start's application video's
• Look at our Start's Race Wax Selections here.
• Email Start Wax at Start@endurance-enterprises.com 

Events and Destinations 

FIS Fantasy Marathon Cup 2013/14 Contest 

 Final Countdown

The deadline to register or revise your team is 10 pm EST on Saturday, January 18, 2014 - the day before the 60km Dolomitenlauf on January 19.

To register click HERE.

Attend Wax A Palooza Jan 16th

at Gewar West in Long Lake MN

http://www.gearwest.com/waxapalooza 

Start at 10am, day-of registration opens at 9:00am. www.nensa.net/calendar/

BirkieTour on Saturday

For a complete listing and descriptions of the incredible events visit nordictownusa.com or visit our facebook page: Sun Valley Nordic Festival.

Noquemanon

 

Lake Placid Loppet