Ironing Kick Wax

Dear Skipost;

This may be an ignorant question - and I may have missed something basic over all these years of skiing, but here goes . . .When I read the instruction for applying grip wax the suggestion is almost always to cork it in.  Why not, specially for the base layers, lightly iron it on for better penetration?  Why not iron on the top layer of grip wax?  Would not you get a faster ski with a more long lasting grip wax?

I definitely have had very good results lightly ironing in red grip wax during warm conditions - fantastic grip and great glide.  But what about colder conditions? But more generally my question is;  why are the common instruction to only cork grip wax on?    Thanks for SkiPost.  I enjoy it every week;  its gets me excited to ski again.

Btw, currently snowing in northern Vermont! Think Snow, 

RVR-Peacham, Vermont

Hello RVR,

Excellent questions regarding why or why not to iron in grip wax.

We do recommend that you always iron in your base wax. This is because it helps the wax to better adhere to the ski and thus it will have better durability. Occasionally when conditions are in between hard wax and klister conditions companies will recommend also ironing a softer wax into the base wax to make it tackier. The problem with this is it can be difficult to know what ratio to mix the wax and if you are waxing multiple skis you will likely end up with different wax jobs. Start makes a Base Wax Extra specifically for more abrasive conditions that is tackier and more durable than regular base wax.

To answer the second part of your question. Why not iron in the top layer of wax? Occasionally with warmer waxes we will iron in the top layer. For a klister race wax job we always do. However, there can be problems when melting kick waxes together. First as I said before there can be a consistency issue with how much of each wax is used producing different results. Even more important, in my opinion, is that when melting top layers of kick you are likely melting them into layer beneath. You've created a different wax and you no longer have that layered effect that helps with: durability, icing, and speed/dragging of the kick. This would be especially problematic when waxing for cold hard wax conditions as the base wax underneath is going to come to the surface and be to warm causing icing and slow skis.

I would recommend sticking to ironing base wax and klister waxes only. The reason ironing in a red wax works well is because you are essentially using something very close to klister that is formed into a hard wax tin.

Evan Pengelly

Start America Product Manager

startskiwax.com

facebook.com/Start-America 

start@endurance-enterprises.com

More info on waxing through these links.

Classic Wax Pocket

I have some experience in classic skiing and waxing, but have tended to err on the side of a more secure kick. I'm becoming more interested in classic skiing and racing and wondered how much effect training equipment might have on ski/wax performance. Specifically, when fully loaded for training with a hydration belt, heavy jacket and thermal pants, I may be nearly 5 lbs heavier than when I'm in just the racing basics. Assuming a well-fit ski and consistent conditions, is this weight difference enough to require a change in wax choice or application methods?

A related question on classic waxing, again assuming a well-fitting ski and trying to optimize kick and glide, are there general rules for when you might use a longer wax application, thicker application or choose a stickier wax, or is that too dependent on the specific action of the skis camber and the snow conditions. Thanks in advance, 

J

Dear J

Having 5 lbs of additional weight will (with all other things remaining the same) slightly shorten your wax pocket. But most training days are lighter efforts than race days so the added weight may perfectly compensate for the easier efforts without need to alter your wax pocket length. 

The length and thickness of the wax is most dependent on the flex, camber height and fit of the ski. A classic skis camber height is really a key factor in finding an easy kick and good glide. Skis for cold snow should have low camber heights because cold waxes can be applied thinner. Warm skis need have higher cambers to keep the thicker soft waxes off the snow.  If you have a high camber you will need many layers of wax to get kick in cold snow. If you have one ski for all your wax pocket will be shorter when using a thicker warm wax then when using a thin cold wax and visa versa.

You need to build the wax up in shorter and shorter layers under the foot to match the peak of the camber.

Most layers under the peak of the camber, and fewest layers at front and then rear of kick zone.

Andy at SkiPost

 Pole Slippage

Ski Post,

I am an avid roller skier. I typically classic roller ski in the summer and fall. I feel that my technique has improved over the last several years, however there is one problem that I have never improved on. Although I keep my pole tips well sharpened, they are constantly slipping. Even as my technique improves the slipping problem never seems to get any better. Are there any recommendations for planting poles to avoid slipping?

bw

Dear BW,

Your slippage could be caused by a multitude of things and it is impossible to diagnose without seeing you in person or on video. Things to consider are pole planting position in regards to the feet, pole position when looking from in front, tee pee vs vertical

Also

I see a lot of people that are not poling very dynamic so the tip doesn't grab. Long slow poling without that dynamic impact at the beginning of the poling phase. I like to work on this by doing ab only (also called lock and load) double poling. Basically you stay in your initial double pole position throughout the crunch phase without ever changing the angle of the arms at the elbow and the upper arm to the torso. Both should be at roughly 90 degrees. Work on being very dynamic and quick at the initial phase of the pole plant there should not be any problem with tips gripping the pavement. Start out doing short 30 second repeats on a gradual uphill.

Answer By Abby Larson, 

J,

Thanks for the questions. To answer your first question: Carbo-loading once or twice a year for an important ski marathon event almost certainly won't cause you to gain weight. With that being said, if you plan on racing a marathon each weekend you may want to rethink your carbo-loading strategy. Generally in the days leading up to an important race we decrease training volume which essentially spares muscle glycogen and allows us to use what carbohydrates we are consuming as a means to further build up those muscle and liver glycogen stores.  Although it is commonly thought that it is necessary to stuff yourself with carbs on the days leading up to your big event, I wouldn't recommend this as it can lead to bloating and GI upset. About three days prior to race day, 

I would suggest decreasing the volume of usual training and eating the same number of calories as usual but about 70% of those calories should come in the form of carbohydrate (preferably from whole grains and not refined sugars). By tweaking the composition of your diet and maintaining caloric intake you will avoid bloating, weight gain, and possible GI upset but will have adequate carbohydrate to allow for full glycogen repletion. The problem with relying on exogenous sources of glucose (GU and sports drinks) DURING the event is that your muscles will still preferentially be using stored muscle glycogen for energy. This is because it is more efficient to use glycogen for energy production compared to circulating blood glucose. Once you use all of your glycogen stores in a given muscle you will begin to rely more heavily on glucose in the blood but since that process is less efficient it means you will be less efficient. Blood glucose can't be used to resynthesize muscle and liver glycogen during exercise, this process can only happen at rest. 

The real purpose of sport drinks and gels during exercise is to maintain blood glucose thereby postponing the ever-dreadful "bonk". This is different than being glycogen depleted in a specific muscle group (such as the quadriceps).  When you "bonk" it usually affects your central nervous system and you become a bit "loopy", gels and sports drinks will delay this, but when you deplete your glycogen stores in a muscle, gels and sport drinks will be of little help and that muscle will no longer contract and relax as quickly or powerfully. To summarize, fill the tank with high octane fuel before the race, don't overflow the tank because it won't do any good, and try to top off the tank while you are racing.....

The amount caffeine that you would ingest in 6 gels is about 120 mg (if each contained 20 mg) - that's about what you would find in 8 oz of coffee. I know a lot of athletes, myself included, that can't even get their race number on without at least 16 oz of coffee. The diuretic effect that this amount of caffeine has is negligible, even for the unhabituated caffeine consumer. I wouldn't be concerned about the amount of caffeine in gels from a hydration standpoint, as most research indicates that caffeine isn't a very potent diuretic, but I would be concerned about stomach upset. The combination of highly concentrated carbohydrate and caffeine can cause GI upset in some individuals. Caffeine is a proven ergogenic aid for short and long duration events. The ergogenic benefits stem from its stimulation of the central nervous system. Urban sport legend touts caffeine as being able to enhance fatty acid utilization and demonizes it for being a diuretic - both of which are unsupported by the vast majority of research. This being said, if the combination of carbohydrate and caffeine doesn't cause stomach upset then I wouldn't hesitate to use caffeinated gels liberally on race day. 

WARNING: NEVER EXPERIMENT WITH NEW FUELING STRATEGIES ON RACE DAY!

Dr. Abigail Larson  Central Washington University

2006 Nordic Olympian

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