Uniformly Dressed Highlights 

Diplomatic uniforms traditionally identified the wearer as someone given the special task of representing a government while not being part of the military. These uniforms tended to be rather flamboyant to set them apart from ordinary citizens. A very early diplomatic example is a brilliant blue silk coat (pictured left) worn by Charles Cotesworth Pinckney in the 1790s, likely from his service as Ambassador to France under George Washington and John Adams. Pinckney became part of what was called the XYZ Affair, an attempt to establish relations between the American and French governments. A later diplomatic example is the diplomatic uniform coat (pictured second from bottom), epaulettes and chapeau, 1858-60, worn by Francis Wilkinson Pickens as Ambassador to Russia under President James Buchanan. Pickens later became governor of South Carolina and served during Secession and the Civil War.

Sporting uniforms represent team sports as well as individual activities, such as horse racing. Charleston had some of the earliest race courses in America, with wealthy plantation owners outfitting their jockeys in livery colors. Our 1840s jockey silks (pictured top), worn on Col. William Alston's plantation, still retain their vibrant red and green stripes.

Work uniforms range from domestic employees to firemen, dressed to be quickly identified as someone doing their job. Charleston had some of the earliest fire companies in the United States, and the textile collection reflects that longevity. Uniformly Dressed includes a red wool fireman's coat (pictured right), c. 1880 worn by Edward Willis (1834-1910) of the Aetna Fire Company, a volunteer organization active from 1830-1882. See also a Heston Fire Company helmet (pictured at bottom) from the late 19th century. Founded in 1869, this was one of two African American companies in Georgetown, South Carolina.

Also ready to serve others were those in the medical profession. This portion of Uniformly Dressed concentrates on the women involved in the American Red Cross as well as those serving as nurses, on and off the battlefield. A highlight is the Red Cross uniform (pictured left) from World War I worn by Charleston Renaissance artist, Anna Heyward Taylor (1879-1956). She was one of the first South Carolina women to serve in the Red Cross during the war; she served in France for 18 months.

Consider school uniforms in Charleston and the Citadel cadet uniform is likely the first suit to come to mind. Uniformly Dressed many school uniforms includes a Citadel uniform coat from 1886. This coat was worn by Master Sergeant cadet Arthur Merritt Kennedy of Williston, South Carolina. Kennedy graduated from the Citadel in 1887 and delivered the commencement address.  

Uniformly Dressed wraps up with military uniforms from a variety of branches and wars. Uniforms range from a rare silk Revolutionary War uniform coat worn by General Thomas Pinckney to a U.S. Army Air Corps leather flight jacket (pictured right) from World War II. The jacket has silk inserts, called blood chits or rescue flags, with information printed in French, Thai, Lao, Chinese, Korean, Annamese and Japanese. They state that he is an American whose plane has crashed, is an enemy of the Japanese and that the American government will compensate anyone who rescues him and returns him safely to Allied military control.

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