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D E C E M B E R  1 9,   2 0 1 5

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First Light, Peggy's Cove, Halifax Region, Nova Scotia, Canada

Warm greetings. I write to share a memorable journey in northeastern Canada.

In October this year, I had a chance to run after a long held dream - a road trip in Nova Scotia and Newfoundland to chase fall colors and explore the national parks and coastline. A dear friend and his partner, Gerald and Laura, who live in Halifax, prompted and hosted my visit. Lucky Jeff. Very. 

Time with these good friends, a big adventure in a land foreign to me, and the pursuit of landscape imagery, stock photography, and editorial content were all in the mix.


Fall Rainbow, Cabot Trail, Highland National Park, Nova Scotia, Canada

I flew from San Francisco to Halifax four days after returning from an intense and inspirational series of documentary projects in Zambia and Tanzania, topics for future newsletters, and began a journey north in a rental Jeep to touch the spirit of Cape Breton. 


Pink Sunset, Green Point, Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland, Canada
 
In Cape Breton along the acclaimed Cabot Trail, the fall colors were late to arrive. So, we explored the coastline and wandered through small towns, hillsides, and nearby villages. Rain and the start of the winter chill greeted us. Despite the gray weather, I enjoyed this time greatly. Perhaps, my feelings were influenced by a dark purplish black substance I discovered on the journey, a local specialty - partridgeberry jam. Way addictive.

It's a challenge to plan a trip around the peak of the fall color and realize how little control one has over nature's annual song. There is mystery in this dance. Insights on timing vary dramatically. You get lucky or maybe not.  
    
 A Blaze Of Red, Stephenville Crossing, Near Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada
 
Locals in northeastern Canada hold strong theories about the peak of the colors and the depth of each year's display. Opinions vary. Widely. The wetness of the previous winter, spring, and summer, recent cold snaps, the heat of the most recent summer and fall, the severity of recent local storms, the force of the early winter wind, and the dainty dance of little Canadian weather elves all merge together to influence each individual's predictions. Smile.

In truth, no one seems to have a clear handle on either the timing or intensity for fall colors. If you ask the same question five times with locals in Newfoundland and Nova Scotia (what's your opinion on the best days to catch the peak?), you receive eight different answers with personal tales attached. Fortunately, we had a bit of time.
 
 
 
Transition, First Winter Storm, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada 


Blue Morning, Cape Spear, Avalon Peninsula, Nova Scotia, Canada

Cape Breton displayed little color on our first pass, but much coastal beauty. We took a six hour ferry ride to Newfoundland and drove north to Fogo Island. We spent a few days in this unique enclave and then rolled along the north coast of Newfoundland. Every little road and turnout offered a chance for discovery. Beaches, light houses, tiny villages, rocky coastlines, and wide open meadows filled our journey.

The most dangerous concern while driving in Newfoundland? Moose. Big Moose. Unfortunately, they love to stand firmly in the middle of concrete in early hours of the day and dusk. Warnings are everywhere. From what I hear, it's not pretty when a driver makes contact. Yes. We saw a few big moose roaming in meadows, shallow lakes, and rivers near the road throughout the trip. Impressive animals. 

After several days of safe, attentive travel, we arrived at the eastern tip of Newfoundland to visit the town of St. Johns. 


 The Still At Dawn, Fishing Huts, Fogo Island, Newfoundland, Canada 
 
In St Johns, we stayed with a new friend, a woman we met earlier on the ferry to Newfoundland. Good fortune. She runs a small B and B. We walked the colorful streets for several days, visited Cape Spear (the most easterly point in North America), enjoyed time in "Jelly Bean Row" (series after series of brightly colored homes) and met many wonderful people. St Johns is a vibrant, colorful, interesting city. Worthy of many visits.

 Jacob In The Hood, St. Johns, Newfoundland, Canada
 
A Visit To Jelly Bean Row, St. Johns, Newfoundland, Canada

After our time in St. Johns, Gerald flew home to Halifax. I became a solo traveler and drove from the east coast to the far west side of Newfoundland to explore Gros Morne National Park, a site I had longed to visit for some time. 

After several days in the park and a few expeditions north to historic fishing towns such as Port Au Choix, I traveled south and took a ferry back to the north tip of Nova Scotia.   

After The Storm, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada 
 
After the ferry landed in Nova Scotia, I drove west to take one last spin through the Cabot Trail. I hoped my timing might fit with a late peak for the fall colors.


The Cabot Trail, Cape Breton, Highlands National Park, Nova Scotia, Canada 
 
Fortunately, the coastline and mountain valleys in Highland National Park were spectacular. I went back and forth along the Cabot Trail (inside the Highland National Park) several times from east to west and west to east stopping repeatedly to view brightly colored forests and hills and take short hikes near the road. After a day and a half of re-exploring this area, I drove south to the Halifax area to pursue one more dream - a sunrise visit at Peggy's Cove (first image in this note).

In total, the trip covered roughly 6,500 Kms of driving and more than a bit of walking and wobbling on trails, meadows, city streets, and snow fields.

The Jeep was a happy mess when it rolled back into the rental car slot - mud, pebbles, leaves, and hiking boot prints all over the foot pads, snow crust and dirt covering the car paint, wrappers and remnants of quick meals, back packs, duffle bags, and a pile of damp, dirty clothes all combined with great memories.  
 

Overview For Road Plus Ferry Maps, Nova Scotia And Newfoundland 2015

As shared, the timing on the last section of this trip was superb. The fall colors were in full roar. Gros Morne National Park and Cape Breton were both stunning. The hills felt serene and surreal.


Valleys Of Fall, The Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia, Canada  


Forest Sprinkled With Orange And Ice, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada


A Blanket Of Fall Color, Cabot Trail, Nova Scotia, Canada

One morning in Gros Morne National Park, I awoke well before sunrise and caught the first light on the first snow of the season. I shivered in the cold freezing temperature of early winter as I tried to absorb the beauty around me. The image below captured my spirit and memory of the scene. I was drawn to the way the fall colors blended from the forest and upward into the white ice, snow, and black rocks. Transitions.  

For a California kid, these moments are special. Yes. The glory of the experience tends to grow after I returned to a nearby cafe, cracked the ice off my fingers, and lifted my shaky hands toward my shivering lips with a cup of hot brew clutched tightly in my fingers. A plate of steamy pancakes helped improve my memory as well.

Big Yellow Chill, Sunrise, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada

The weather throughout this first trip in northeast Canada was both fickle and generous, with temps from balmy to below frozen. I witnessed glorious sunny days, thick fog, huge wind, rain, snow, stillness, sleet, hail, and, at times, spectacular sunrises and sunsets.

All these weather conditions may be found in a single day's experience for many Newfoundlanders. In areas such as Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, and Iceland, locals often say with a smile: "If you don't like the weather, just wait fifteen minutes. It will change." I can attest to this truth. Layers of clothing are helpful. In October, patience, a positive attitude, and warm, storm proof gear are valuable tools.

Snowblast Above Bonne Bay, Gros National Park, Newfoundland, Canada

Newfoundlanders have a seriously positive reputation for their personalities and willingness to host and care for strangers. In my limited experience, the acclaim is much deserved. People who live on this island tend to be quite open and friendly. Traffic jams, city congestion, stressful commerce, impersonal connections, and other "daily trauma" from urban development are not part of the picture. When you stop to get gas, many roadside stations encourage you to fill up your vehicle and then later saunter into the station to pay your bill. Trust is strong.

Funny moments evolved the first time I encountered classic Newfoundlanders who spoke in their own abbreviated, slightly modified version of "English." In truth, I couldn't understand a single sentence in an hour of their conversation. Laughter ensued. 


Fishing Hut, Fogo Island, Newfoundland, Canada

Many of the northeastern coastal towns in Canada are built around a history of fishing and processing fish. Scenes along the coast are often tied to the deep link between the ocean and the hardy fishermen.


Winter Relief, Fishing Village Near Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland


Fishing Hut, Fogo Island, Newfoundland, Canada

If you have a chance to visit Gros Morne National Park, I recommend this experience highly. The park is a gem. I arrived and left the region in the midst of full throttle snowstorms - cold, wet, slushy, gray. Yet, my timing was fortunate. The colors were ablaze. At some point on most days, the sun shined and the entire park lit up with beauty. I was captivated by valley after valley filled with orange, green, pale red, and yellow trees intertwined with deep black rock and mountain formations, frozen lakes, open meadows, rustic coastline, and scenic trails. 


Sunrise, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada


Winter Tide, Rocky Harbour, Newfoundland, Canada


Fall Meets Ice, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada


Sunrise,Rocky Harbour, Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, Canada

At the northern tip of Nova Scotia, Cape Breton, Highland National Park and the Cabot Trail are primary attractions. The Cabot Trail is considered one of the most beautiful coastal roads in the world. Rolling hills, big vistas, spectacular ocean scenery wrapped together. In the fall, the trees are quite stunning. Captivating.  
 
Fall Tapestry, Cabot Trail, Cape Breton, Highland National Park, Nova Scotia, Canada

The northern coast of Newfoundland is dotted with small towns and villages. Most of these sites have a central fishing plant, clusters of small wooden and metal homes, and one or more churches. When the weather is calm, the scenes are peaceful and serene. When the wind and storms howl, one needs to take cover. Quickly. At one point, I parked the rental Jeep and opened the front door slowly on the side of a road near Port Au Choix in the midst of a modest storm. The strong winds ripped control of the door from my hands and almost broke the frame completely off. Snap, crackle, pop.


The "Devil's Footprints," Keels, Newfoundland


Sunset, Newtown Village, Newfoundland, Canada


Quidi Vidi, Near St. Johns, Newfoundland, Canada


A Spattering Of Color, Trans Canada Hiway, Interior Lake, Newfoundland, Canada


Fishing Village Near Cape Spear, St. Johns, Newfoundland


The View, Rocking Chair And Stovepipe Heater Perched On Rocks, Newfoundland, Canada


A Quiet Morning, St. Johns Jelly Bean Row, Newfoundland, Canada


Battered And Worn, House By The Sea, Port Au Choix, Newfoundland, Canada


Cape Bona Vista, Newfoundland, Canada

A Meadow Full Of Life, Corner Brook, Newfoundland, Canada

One day, early in the morning, while exploring Highland National Park in northern Cape Breton, I stopped at a small lookout on the side of a narrow, winding mountain road. A light coat of fresh snow glistened on a nearby meadow. All around me, muted fall colors glimmered in early morning light - orange leaves spread throughout a forest of trees trapped in thin layers of shiny, white ice and mist. Touches of fog settled into the valley below me. The morning sun hovered at the edge of a tall ridge to my left. I stood alone in my muddy, brown rubber boots and gazed into the scene.

As my focus shifted, I recognized a handwritten message in the light snow on the rocks near the edge of the road, a thought scrawled by a fellow traveler. The text said:

"The Earth has a soul and It's alive."

I shook my head slowly as I reflected on this notion. Simple. Beautiful. Moving.


A Carpet Of Color, Cabot Trail, Highland National Park, Nova Scotia, Canada

The stranger's message must have been written in the early light just before my arrival. It likely lasted just a few moments after I departed as the warmth of the sun grew, the snow melted, and a light wind whistled through the trees. Perhaps, this note was meant for me. And for you. 

The feel of the fall colors, peaceful character of Newfoundland and Nova Scotia, and warm spirit of the northeastern Canadian people will linger for a long, long time. I was fortunate to make this trek. I hope to go back again.

Thank you for sharing the journey. With gratitude and best wishes for your holidays,

Jeff


"Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better."

Albert Einstein