L U M E N   N E W S

 
I N S P I R A T I O N  *  I N F O R M A T I O N  *  I N V I T A T I O N S

D E C E M B E R  1 7,   2 0 1 5

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A Serene Sunrise, Havana Bay, Cuba


Warm holiday greetings! Time flies.
 
I recently returned from a memorable four week trip in Cuba. In the first portion of my travel, I led a photo cultural tour in Santiago, Guantanamo, Baracoa, Regla, and Havana with the Cross Cultural Journeys Foundation. There were twelve guests from across the U.S. in our merry band, a great group.

Our experience was filled with discovery, cultural events, lectures, walking tours, and interaction with Cubans from all paths of life. The journey was greatly enjoyed. Ok. A few challenges evolved, as expected, but the more difficult memories, such as a moment when a large, uninvited tarantula arrived in a female guest's room, tend to fade. Heck, she had bragging rights for most of the day. In Cuba, flexibility, laughter, and patience are essential tools. I am reminded of a wise saying: "If you want to experience the beauty of roses, you need to be comfortable sharing the thorns." All went well.


Reflections, Olivia (88 Years Old), Baracoa Region, Cuba

After the group program, I traveled solo. Yes. The locals were warned. I lived with a family in a small apartment in Vedado near Havana for two weeks and explored the city and nearby suburbs. Most days, I wandered the streets of Central and Old Havana walking five to twelve hours in an unstructured, state of discovery. When I needed a ride, I traveled in collective taxis with four to five native Cuban travelers. I let myself wander in almost every city street. I carried a camera, a few lenses, and a note pad and worked on a series of small documentary projects. It was hot and wonderful.  


Race Ready, Lestor (8 years old) and Antony (7 years old), Regla, Cuba
  
 For me, the engagement with photography brings a deeper level of connection and awareness, a sense for light, tone, lines, emotions, the character of people and spaces, the flow of time, and the stories all around me. As you may know, I am a bit of photo mutt. I enjoy producing landscape, portrait, photojournalism, advocacy, fine art, and abstract images. I can get lost in this process. Often, I find myself stretching to reflect not just what I see, but also what I feel. This deeper goal tends to be more difficult than straight visual documentation, but when I succeed, I am connected in a more powerful way.   

 
Arm and Arm, Central Havana At Dusk, Cuba

Throughout the trip, I met a series of fascinating Cubans who shared a glimpse of their daily life.

Wonder, joy, hope, struggle, incredibly rich artistic expression, warmth, a deep connection with family and friends, layers of history and difficult government engagements, patience, resiliency, caution, decisions relating to immigration (leaving Cuba), and a tapestry of professional challenges are all reflected in and woven into the experience of Cubans.
Their stories and our moments together linger.

 
 
Lazaro, Musician and Hair Stylist, Callejon Hamel, Cayo Hueso Neighborhood, Havana, Cuba
 
On the cultural front, I jumped at the chance to visit the National Ballet, the Buena Vista Social Club, and other Cuban music and art performances.

 
Ballet Nacional de Cuba
 
Earning a living wage is a challenge in Cuba. Almost every adult age Cuban works two, three, or more jobs to survive and, if possible, thrive. The majority of Cubans remain employed by the government and make $20 to $40 a month in their base salary - not enough to live comfortably or feed a family.

So, over and over Cubans become creative and determined in their efforts to produce additional income and realize a closer version of the future they seek. Necessity sparks innovation and a commitment to make the best use of what's available. Friends and family bond together.    
 
Searching For Light, Rafael and Gino At Work, Central Havana, Cuba
   
As well documented in the international press, Cuba's overall economy continues to sputter forward and sideways. It's a struggle.

The government has few exports (basically, rum, tobacco, and doctors) and a highly limited tax base to depend on.

Small, private businesses driven by the entrepreneurial spirit of Cubans (now allowed in limited scale and profile) and tourism from the U.S., Canada, and Europe are exploding. Yet, the infrastructure in Cuba (hotels, transportation, interior flights, etc.) and support for small businesses (critical wholesale operations and other supply chain offerings as well as banking and other resources) need major investment and improvements. It's not clear when or how these changes will occur. There are some signs of progress.

  

Dayron, Joining The Internet Connection, Regla, Cuba

In the last twelve months, WIFI and internet connections opened new worlds of information access and connection. Many Cubans with discretionary resources now have smart phones - most have installed an application named IMO that allows face-to-face, Internet enabled communication with friends and relatives in Europe, Canada, South and Central America, and the United States. It's common to watch the face of a Cuban light up as a call is connected and the voice of a friend or relative breaks through the silence. This same excitement moves to despair when the connection is suddenly lost, which happens constantly.

It's tough to stop the power of information when in begins to trickle into our lives. New ideas, alternative philosophies, a deeper, worldwide perspective all emerge. Cuba is coming from a dark place in terms of broad access to information and news to a more and more open society. That's encouraging.   


Aisan At Work, Stainglass Factory, Old Havana, Cuba

At the same time, the Cuban government is stretching and contorting to maintain firm power and control - attempting to express long-standing social and economic values and a firm grip on all commercial activity in an entirely new era of the country's development.

Transitions and change are noted. Everywhere. It's not clear how the economy and government policy will evolve. So much needs to be transformed. It is clear the process of uplifting and enriching the full population will take time. Poverty and scarcity remain quite prevalent. So far, the massive wave of resources tied to tourism has significantly impacted "the few" not "the many." Modest gestures of capitalism are allowed around the fringe of an overwhelming government operation.

 

Soldiers In The Making, Jose (3 Years Old) and Ryan (4 Years Old), Old Havana, Cuba

Much like my previous visits to Cuba, my experience wandering the streets in Havana was intoxicating in a positive way. The grit, energy, color, decaying buildings, deep sense of community, openness and kindness of the Cuban people, crowded streets, growing wave of family run restaurants, tiny bars, hair and nail salons, music and dance performance groups, art studios, mini factories, bed and breakfast sites, vegetable and fruit stands, recycling ventures, and other enterprises mixed with street games of soccer, baseball, and rollerskating, displays of daily wash, and a massive number of construction and redevelopment projects form a tapestry that's captivating.


Blue Taxi, Near The Capital, Old Havana, Cuba

Old American and Russian cars, live music and dance, cobblestones and broken pavement, spontaneous music, kids playing marbles in the gutters, men working the domino table, and the unique blur of commerce in Cuba's city streets remains mesmerizing. 


The Domino Kings, Charlie (White Shirt, Security Staff), Oresta (Blue Shirt, Mechanic), Ruben (Cigarette, Janitor), Edward (Mirrored Glasses, Security Staff), and Jesus (Standing, White Shirt, Janitor), Central Havana, Cuba
 


Ballet Folklorico, Guantanamo, Cuba

Wandering on my own, I often walked into small businesses and factories and introduced myself. My Spanish is poor to nonexistent, but I tried to convey a sense of genuine interest. Most often, I was encouraged to stay, observe, and share. I often sat and watched the pace and flow of labor and life roll on before me. I reflected on quality and other outcomes, the difference between private and government sponsored programs, and the source of motivation for Cubans and professionals in the rest of the world. It's difficult to create a sense of ownership, focus, and accountability if there is no recognition for work well done and no change in compensation regardless of performance or role. Thus, in Cuba, a movement of professionals from government payrolls to private businesses continues. Today, all large industries are controlled by the Cuban government (beer, water, large hotels, airplane transport, gas stations, etc.), but small service businesses are emerging throughout the country. It's fascinating to watch the transition.


Jorge, Grinder And Master Welder, Private Manufacturing Site, Old Havana, Cuba
 

It's an incredible time to travel in Cuba. So much is happening. Fast. The rest of this long missive offers a further visual overview from my travels. You may wish to take a quick visual tour. The text is intended to offer simple captions and context. Enjoy ...

Baseball, dance, ballet, boxing, and soccer remain strong sources of national pride and engagement ... 


At Play, Community Baseball Field, Cojima, Cuba


The Reviewer, Community Baseball Field, Cojima, Cuba

Boxing has a long history in Cuba.  


Dreaming Of Days To Come, Daniel (26 Years Old), Giminasio De Boxeo, Old Havana, Cuba


Daniel (26 Years Old), Gimnasio De Boxeo, Old Havana, Cuba


Mikael, Reggae Musician, DJ, And Boxer, Gimnasio De Boxeo, Old Havana, Cuba

Mikael, Reggae Musician, DJ, And Boxer, Gimnasio De Boxeo, Old Havana, Cuba

Lisvan (20 Years Old), Boxer, Gimnaseo De Boxeo, Old Havana, Cuba 

An affinity for and talent with dance and rhythm seems to come within the DNA of all Cuban people. Flowing, colorful moments with dance and music are shared throughout the country. 


A Procession Of Color, Dancers, Ballet Folklorico, Guantanamo, Cuba


Compass Dance Performance, Havana, Cuba

Frozen Motion, Jonathon And Jose, Ballet On The Malecon, Havana, Cuba


Jose, Ballet On The Malecon, Havana, Cuba
Ballet Nacional De Cuba, Havana, Cuba


Ballet Nacional De Cuba, Havana, Cuba


Don Quixote, Ballet Nacional De Cuba, Havana, Cuba


Ballet Nacional De Cuba, Havana, Cuba



Community Dance Program, Regla Community Center, Havana Region, Cuba

Children start very young with training and a commitment to the arts in Cuba. Classes and instruction may continue for decades. Almost all educational and support commitments in the arts are sponsored by the government. School is free.


Youth Arts And Dance Celebration, Pavilion, Havana, Cuba


Dance Students Preparing To Perform, Pavilion, Havana, Cuba

Retirement in Cuba generally involves sustained, close relationships with family and friends. Government pensions are small (I am told these payments are
typically $8 to $12 a month) and access to food and other necessities are often a challenge. Many Cubans have friends or family who send money from the United States, Canada, or Europe or children who provide partial support through their jobs and other sources of income in Cuba.


Libertad (68 Years Old) And Francisco (68 Years Old), Retirees, Baracoa, Cuba


Late Afternoon Light, Regla, Cuba

Religion and spiritual practices in Cuba are diverse and layered. A large portion of the population holds Catholic beliefs. African, Caribbean, and other spiritual lineages are in the mix. Practices associated with "Santeria," a system of beliefs that merge aspects of Yoruba mythology, which were brought to the New World by Yoruba slaves, with Christianity and Indigenous American traditions is increasingly common.

The fortune tellers in Regla and other locations are known as "Cardomanticas." Yes. While visiting the nearby church, I inquired about my future. Apparently, I will have a very long and rich life. I am told I will be especially fortunate in the future as a result of purchasing a small sculpture ($5) that requires a regular dose of perfume and rum to be most effective. Please note, if you smell anything strange in my bags in the future, it's not me, it's my well scented and dosed, traveling sculpture. Smile. 
 
Lourdes (54 Years Old), Cardomantica (Fortune Teller), Regla, Cuba


Lourdes' Trade Tools, Cardomantic (Fortune Telling), Regla, Cuba

In the neighborhoods and suburbs near the cities, working class families live and children play. A small town, Regla, near Havana, is one of my favorite areas in Cuba. There is a commuter ferry that charges about forty cents to move Cubans from Havana to this small community. The town feels authentic, barely touched by the pulse of tourism and change in the nearby city.


Neighborhood Connections, Regla, Cuba

The green car in the image above sits in the heart of Regla. The car reflects a classic Cuban story. This old American frame has over 3,000,000 Kilometers of road time. Yes. It's a cherished rig. The owner was proud to share the interior and engine box with me. It's common for cars to last a long, long time in Cuba.

Barbers and hair stylists are well established in each neighborhood. This private profession, like other small service businesses now permitted by the government, provides freedom and a bit of income. Achieving any type of "scale" and/or managing multiple locations, however, is difficult. Almost all barbers and hair stylists are one-person-bands.



Ivan Rodriquez (30 Years Old), Barber, Central Havana

Small businesses, COOPs, and other private enterprises are growing rapidly throughout the country. In many ways, these ventures hold the most hope and vibrancy seen in the Cuban economy. These commitments allow personal drive, ownership, and a new layer of freedom to Cubans. Many Cubans, by choice or necessity, are diving into this world of entrepreneurship and private COOP programs.


Maissiel (45 Years Old), Jewelry Saleswoman In The Streets, Central Havana, Cuba


The Corner Market, Private Vegetable Stand, Vedado Section Of Havana, Cuba

 
Puento De Venta Organic Garden, High Performing COOP With Over 100 Staff, Havana, Cuba


Touring The Malecon And City Streets At Dusk, Taxi, Havana, Cuba


Private Meat Market, Havana, Cuba


Afternoon Motion, Collective Taxis, Central Havana, Cuba


Ines (46 Years Old), Private Cigar And Cigarette Saleswoman, Central Havana, Cuba


Dianisio (78 Years Old) And Miguel (76 Years Old), Shoe Repair Business, Havana, Cuba


Collective Taxi, Central Havana, Cuba


Tourist Taxi, Malecon, Havana, Cuba


An Old Trombone, Omar (30 Years Old), Musician, Malecon, Cuba


Robertico (35 Years Old), Barber, Serving Alejandro (38 Years Old) And Haley (4 Years Old), Vedado, Cuba


A Backseat View, Collective Taxi, Havana, Cuba


Frank (55 Years Old) and Yanko (38 Years Old), Old Havana, Cuba

As I walked the streets one day in Old Havana, I came upon two guys carrying what looked like a gun from Ghost Busters. Apparently, their current job is part of a several year mandatory military service commitment. Mosquito fumigator is one of many roles they endure. For years, Russia had a major influence on Cuba's military. Now, China and other countries are influencing Cuba's path. 


Mosquito Fumigators, Part Of Military Service, Old Havana, Cuba

Older Cubans hold a deep sense of personal story in their well worn faces and their eyes. Jose (below) is no exception. He is a bit of a legend as a "cowboy" from his earlier work with horses and cattle. Imagine his eighty plus years of experience. He watched the era of Batista evolve and crumble, the revolution, Castro's regime emerge, Russia's influence and departure, and a series of national shifts and changes. He had a gentle spirit.


Jose Francisco Pepe, A "Cowboy" From Years Gone By, Regla, Cuba

The streets of Havana are filled with brightly painted American cars from the 1950s and 1960s. The flow of color and character of these cars often seems dreamlike - reflections of a country trapped in time. The U.S. led embargo and scarcity in parts and automobile options has much to do with this signature experience. The old American cars are part of the fabric of everyday life. 


Pink Sunset, Malecon, Havana, Cuba

Real Estate in Cuba is both mysterious and complicated. Today, the Cuban government owns all the land in Cuba. Yes, it's good to be a "Castro," but your monthly repair bills are very, very steep. Basic maintenance of buildings and streets, plumbing, and other common resources remains a massive challenge. The financial capital and skills to maintain structures are often scarce. Paint, concrete, steel reinforcement bars, and other fundamental requirements are constrained and incredibly expensive.

New buildings often sit right next to decaying structures. Large and small apartment complexes often hold a mixture of updated, modern interiors and unsafe, poorly maintained rooms and hallways. Money for repairs in private spaces often comes from second and third jobs and/or from funds sent to Cuba from family and friends living abroad. Tiles, fixtures, and other furnishings are available with limited and expensive options. Government wages do not allow the average Cuban to repair or refurnish a home. Many Cubans save for years to make even basic repairs to the interior spaces they live in.


Central Havana, Cuba

Today, a new set of policies are evolving. Cubans are now allowed to buy and sell interior residential spaces (apartments and homes). Some of these spaces have been family owned for many generations. Other sites were donated, gifted, distributed, or anointed to Cubans by the Cuban government after seizure of the sites at the end of the revolution or later in the process of managing the housing needs for the population. There are no mortgages and most Cubans do not pay rent. There are many conflicting views on previous and current ownership and rights. Imagine how you would feel if the government showed up at your home one day and asked for your keys. Yes. Real estate in Cuba is complex.



Sweeping The Streets, Old Havana, Cuba

The ocean near most of Cuba's coastline is quite pristine. There is limited industry near the water and most agricultural enterprises cannot afford the pesticides, fertilizers, herbacides, and other chemicals many countries use to advance crop yields.

A view of the fishing fleet near Havana is Casa Blanca is shown below. You may note the lack of engines on the boats (locked up when not in use) and the size and character of the fleet. Special government licenses and permits are needed to fish professionally in Cuba. Fear of boats (and Cubans) making a dash for Florida or some other destination outside of Cuba creates sustained caution for the Cuban government. The boats, like the cars in Cuba, are cherished assets.    


Cuban Fishing Fleet, Cosa Blanca, Havana Region, Cuba


Walls From Yesterday, Cosa Blanca, Havana Region, Cuba

Much like many less developed regions of the world, even with hardships and challenges, one often finds many, many children at play in the streets of Cuba's towns and cities. There is joy and a sense of connection in these moments.  

 
Three Amigos, Cosa Blanca, Havana Region, Cuba

Kids throughout Cuba attend school on a mandatory basis. Literacy is very high - roughly 99.7 in last assessment by UNESCO, versus a literacy level of under 90% in the USA. Both education and health care outcomes in Cuba remain impressive.

Every traveler in Havana leaves with memories of the flow of old cars on old streets near pastel colored buildings. Dreamlike.   


A Moment In Time, Capital District, Havana, Cuba

Back to small businesses and inspiration ... Judy, image below, is a typical, entrepreneurial Cuban. She spends a good part of her day as the owner of a tiny business. She sells coffee. Well, small cups of coffee. She buys beans from the government, grinds the beans, brews a large pot, shifts the hot fluid to a container, and sells small cups of coffee on the street for four to eight cents a swig. She struggles to earn a living, yet holds an optimistic and positive attitude. She has more freedom and more income than she would have in a government job. She knows many of her customers well. The government allows these types of very small enterprises to operate and pay fees for a license and taxes on income.

Judy (45 Years Old), Coffee Merchant (4 To 8 Cents A Cup), Havana, Cuba

As you walk on the streets, you meet one entrepreneur after another. Everyone is stretching to earn a living. Many Cubans are focused on snagging a bit of the escalating tourism business and gain access to the tourists' currency (CUCs). Guides, taxi drivers, waiters, hotel bus boys, artists all make tips in CUCs, a greatly valued opportunity.


Henry (56 Years Old), Trained As A Neurosurgeon Now Drives A Cab, Central Havana, Cuba


City Life, Small Business Signs, Bike Taxi, Collective Taxi, Central Havana, Cuba


Havier, Retail Merchant (Enabled By Funds From Miami), Santa Fe, Havana Region, Cuba


Rena (with laughter, she said she is 34 years young), Santa Fe, Havana Region, Cuba


Nola Having Her Nails Done By Hida, Who Is In Private Business, Old Havana, Cuba


Raul (72 Years Old), Retired From Ministry Of The Interior (Police), Old Havana, Cuba


Daniel (54 Years Old), Car Sander And Painter, Old Havana, Cuba
 


Giovani (36 Years Old, Construction Worker) and Miguel (43 Years Old, Unemployed), Birthday Celebration, Fish Stew Broiling, Cojima, Havana Region, Cuba


Storm Surge, Havana, Cuba
 

A Lingering Memory, Dusk, Havana, Cuba

Health care is free in Cuba. One of the admirable commitments from the government is an investment in community health services. Imagine nurses who live in and support their own community door by door, family by family. There is an attraction to this type of personal and whole community care. Epidemics and other local health issues are recognized fairly quickly. In Cuba, formal and informal quarantines and other health management steps are more aggressively pursued than in many countries. Malaria is rare. Dengue Fever is sometimes a challenge. As one might guess, alcohol, diabetes, and other issues are also health concerns.


Xiomara (29 Years Old), Community Nurse Specializing In Intensive Care, Cayo Hueso Neighborhood, Central Havana, Cuba

Aluminum, plastic, and other easily recyclable materials are rarely wasted.



Esther (49 Years Old), Recycling Queen, With Dumpster Divers, Vedado, Cuba


Jesus, Converted 51 Chrysler, Truck Driver For Recycling Centers, Vedado, Cuba


Making The Sale, Aluminum Can Deposit, State Recycling Facility, Havana Region, Cuba

The streets of Havana are filled with a tapestry of daily life.


On The Streets, Old Havana, Cuba


Celebrating Marriage, Havana, Cuba


Flowers In Motion, Private Floral Shop, Central Havana, Cuba


A Taxi With A Message, Dusk, Havana, Cuba


The New WIFI Generation, IMO and EMail, Central Havana, Cuba


Omar Rico and Consuelo Vidal (Gym Owners) With Their Friend Barbaro, Roughly $5 Private Membership Fee Per Month, Old Havana, Cuba


Omar's and Consuelo's Gym, Bike's For A Real Man's Workout, Old Havana, Cuba

Today, most Cubans live in or near major cities and towns. Havana and Santiago regions are dominant.  

Sunrise, Inner City, Santiago, Cuba

The government recognizes the need to create incentives for farming and rural development, but has struggled to succeed in this area. Much of the country is fertile and undeveloped, yet the government imports a major portion of the food needed by the population and the tourism industry. It's odd to have a country with such poverty and yet so much spectacular, undeveloped and underutilized land. This is one of the many challenging truths for Cuba today.

  Eastern Cuba Landscape, The Road To Baracoa, Cuba 

The next few years are a critical period for Cuba. Leadership will shift. Decisions about fundamental guiding philosophies of the government will be tested. The power of information will be more and more prevalent. The country's relationship with the U.S. will morph into a new era. Tourism, currently at just over three million visitors a year, is likely to expand dramatically. Commercial airlines, cruise ships, hotel operators and other tour operators are all poised to invest and connect more of the world to Cuba. Economically, some further hybrid form of socialism and capitalism with a unique Cuban twist is likely to emerge.  


Reflections, Roelkis Daudinot (22 Years Old), Musician, Recycling Support Staff, Regla, Cuba


Hanging With The Boys, Iyandri (Tattoo), Edad, Luis, Emilio, and Ramon, Baracoa, Cuba


Angel (Three Kids And A Monthly Salary Of About $25 With Other Workers, Government Owned Shoe Company, Havana, Cuba


Young Emerging Dancers, Nacional Ballet de Cuba, Havana, Cuba


Military Youth, Mandatory Service, Havana, Cuba

I am both cautious and encouraged by the direction and pace of change in Cuba. There's a long path ahead with major challenges and issues. At the same time, there is great promise in the process.

In terms of travel, Cuba is a special place - hot, spectacular, confusing, fascinating, complex, vibrant, wonderful all in one mix.

I hope this note and visual tour resonates in some way. Thank you for sharing the journey.

May your holidays be bright and full of wonderful companionship,

Jeff

PS: Some of you have asked me if these and other images are for sale as archival, numbered prints. Yes. Please call me or write me if you wish for further information. The landscape and documentary images on my website are all available as prints as well. Recently, the University of California, a number of collectors who viewed images at my recent Mumm Photography Gallery fine art exhibit, and several international law firms purchased prints for their art collections. Gratitude.

If you are interested in travel to Cuba in 2016, please let me know. We sold out the program this year (2015). Next year's offering is in the planning stages at this time. It's likely to be ten to twelve days in November of 2016.