SUNRISE OVER THE ZAMBEZI RIVER, ISLANDS OF SIANKABA, ZAMBIA
Happy New Year! It's hard to believe 2016 is already in full motion.
I write to share notes from a recent adventure in Africa.
In August last year, I flew from San Francisco to Lusaka, Zambia to produce still photography, video interviews, and documentary footage to support four organizations with advocacy, marketing, and fundraising campaigns.
CHIBO, 6 YRS OLD, DREAMS OF BECOMING A NURSE, SIANKABA SCHOOL, ZAMBIA
This was my first trip to Zambia, a landlocked country in southern Africa with acclaimed national parks, stunning rivers, substantial natural resources (think copper and cobalt), an unreliable power grid (think six to 10 hours a day of rolling electricity blackouts), a sputtering economy (GDP per capita at about $1,400 a year), modest literacy rates (60%-70% range), more than a few challenging health issues (Malaria and HIV/AIDS near the top of the list), and a vibrant population of 14 million people.
 A MOKORO AT REST, SUNRISE, ZAMBEZI RIVER, ZAMBIA
During my first four days in Zambia, I worked with a highly regarded hospitality group, the Islands Of Siankaba River Lodge. The lodge hosted and supported my travel and provided guides and other resources in exchange for rights to imagery I produced for promotion and support of the property and ongoing nonprofit health care and education initiatives.
KAMUTI, 4 YRS. OLD, LEARNING THE ALPHABET, SIANKABA SCHOOL, ZAMBIA
If Victoria Falls is on your bucket list and you wish to visit this area, the Islands of Siankaba River Lodge offers a unique out-of-the-bustle-and-fray venue with a passionate staff and close ties to the local community.
STILLNESS, ISLANDS OF SIANKABA LODGE, ZAMBEZI RIVER, ZAMBIA
The property is located on two small islands near the edge of the Zambezi River. Picturesque. TripAdvisor offers glowing reviews.
AMBASSADOR FOR THE STREETS, LIVINGSTONE, ZAMBIA
NEWS THE OLD FASHION WAY, DOWNTOWN LIVINGSTON, ZAMBIA
The lodge works closely with government and tribal leaders to support education, clean water programs, a church, agriculture training, and other initiatives.
The goal is to foster a sustainable environment and improve the long-term economic model for the region.
NEWLY ELECTED VILLAGE CHIEF AND HIS FAMILY, SIANKABA, ZAMBIA
My interactions within local villages linger.
One night, returning from a tour on the Zambezi River, I was struck by the calm, surreal beauty of a sunset.
Soft colors from a bright sky merged with the radiance of the fading sun. Haze from local brush fires helped soften the light. Water swirled below me, rushing downstream toward Victoria Falls. A warm breeze rolled across the river and bent the tops of tall brown reeds on the river bank. Shorebirds circled overhead. Quiet. Captivating. I wanted to bottle that moment.
 SUNSET OVER THE ZAMBEZI RIVER, ZAMBIA
I spent several days working on documentary material in the local communities and the school near the lodge.
I valued the chance to play, laugh, and learn with the kids.
MONTANGA, 6 YRS. OLD, JUST STARTING SCHOOL, SIANKABA, ZAMBIA
The villages in and around Siankaba are composed of dozens of small, thatch roof huts and open, common spaces.
Communities are tightly linked and the children share a common bond.
At one point, I stumbled across an intensely competitive pool game. The story behind this pool table (below) reminds me of inspiration and uplift I often experience in Africa and other less developed regions in the world.
 JORDAN, POOL SHARK, 9 YRS OLD, WITH HIS BUDDIES, SIANKABA VILLAGE, ZAMBIA
A few weeks before this picture was taken, Jordan and his buddies, Junior, George, and Gabriel, decided they wanted to own a pool table. The only problem was a complete lack of resources to purchase their dream.
One day, Jordan went to his father and asked if he could have twelve to fifteen nails. His father, Sector, had no idea what the nails were for, but granted his son's request. The next day, Jordan found a patch of old green cloth and nailed it to a broken, semi-flat wooden board. He added a few creative "bumpers." He then found a stick near the river that could be shaped into a pool cue. Once his custom pool table was ready, Jordan and his friends went on a scavenger hunt. They found fourteen nearly round marbles. All the critical pieces were finally in place. The games could begin.
Jordan's father, Sector, told this story with much hand waving and great pride. These types of moments remind me of the power of hope and determination in the face of poverty and other obstacles. This self-made pool table provided as much joy as any expensive, manufactured table might generate.
As I sat watching the kids play, I was reminded of a quote that reflects the impact of expectation and yearning:
"If you want to be truly rich, need less." Old Buddhist Saying
A CLASSROOM FULL OF HOPE, SIANKABA SCHOOL, ZAMBIA
The school near the lodge in the village of Siankaba is quite compact. There are just two classrooms.
What makes the site so special is the dedication and character of the lead teacher, Malindi. He and a team of assistants teach a group of about sixty K-6 grade level kids. Topics include reading, writing, mathematics, science, art, history, gardening, health care, and sports.
MALINDI TEACHING READING, SIANKABA SCHOOL, ZAMBIA
The kids adore Malindi and seem to deeply value their educational opportunity. Much like schools in the U.S., a talented teacher with a heart-felt connection to a group of children can make a huge difference. These children are fortunate to have such a dedicated mentor.
A while back, there was no educational program in this area, no money for school uniforms or teachers, and no curriculum to inspire and engage the kids. The owners of the Islands of Siankaba Lodge built a foundation and then a school. They hired Malindi and now raise tens of thousands of dollars each year to purchase school uniforms, computers and other resources, hire teaching staff, and address a range of health care and other community needs. Impressive. My documentary work was designed to help support the foundation's vision for the future. 
BUS STATION, LIVINGSTONE, ZAMBIA
The small town of Livingstone is nearby. The streets are filled with color and history.
Streets vendors sell fruit, vegetables, clothes, alcohol, cooked and uncooked meats, toys, and many other offerings. I was told most of the bright colored juices (shown below) come from Zimbabwe. 
FRUIT JUICE, OIL, AND CORN, STREET MARKET, LIVINGSTONE, ZAMBIA
Farming is of critical importance in this area. Many families survive through their own crops and eat a local form of corn stew for most meals. 
WILSON, 73 YRS. OLD, AND WIFE BIRITA, 56 YRS OLD, FARMER, SIANKABA, ZAMBIA
The lodge hires staff almost entirely from the local community. This creates a sense of common opportunity.
The bungalows at the lodge sit right above the Zambezi River. Memorable.
I stayed in the room shown below. The first night, I learned my neighbors, birds, hippos, and crocodiles, raise quite a ruckus when they converse. If you have not heard a hippo snort, growl, and snore, it's an unusual treat to wake up to. My temptation to take a morning swim was squashed.  RIVER VIEW LODGING, ISLANDS OF SIANKABA, ZAMBEZI RIVER, ZAMBIA
I had long dreamed of visiting Victoria Falls and jumped at the opportunity to explore this national park during my time in Livingstone. I scrambled over massive rocks above the falls and walked along the edge of the cliffs on the opposite side of the valley for hours. Magic.
The roar of water rushing over the rocks and falling hundreds of feet to an abrupt landing leaves a powerful impression. In the spring, I am told the spray, sound, and force of Victoria Falls can be breathtaking. My visits were in late summer. Even then, the falls were gorgeous, massive.
In addition to wide, expansive parts of the falls, I was attracted to the intimate little sections. When the fading light hit the water from the side, the tiny streams of white seemed to glow against the black rock.
 A LITTLE SLIVER OF VICTORIA FALLS AT SUNSET, ZAMBIA
I left Livingstone and Siankaba with new friends, inspiration, and hope that I can return. The people I met were warm and generous.
The next stops on my trip in Zambia were in Lusaka, the capital, and Chitokoloki, where I worked at hospitals with Dr. Goran Jovic, a remarkable reconstructive surgeon. I will share highlights from this trip in the next newsletter.
Best wishes,
Jeff
|
