Sunrise At Shiprock ("Tse Bit A'i," A Sacred Navajo Site), Four Corners Region, New Mexico
In December, I explored a dream I held for some time - to camp under a full moon in the dunes of White Sands National Park and re-visit the acclaimed Four Corners region of New Mexico and Colorado. I traveled with two talented landscape photographers, Rob and Tim, who hold a common love for wilderness, on a six day whirlwind journey. We met at the airport in Albuquerque and headed south. When we arrived at White Sands, a storm had settled into the area. The sky was dark and threatening. Light rain began to fall. As the wipers rolled back and forth on the car's dirty front window, I reflected on the days ahead. This unexpected weather held promise and concern. Storms sometimes create cherished transitions with dramatic light and colorful sky. At the same time, a soggy tent, snow flurries, and cold, wet camping gear were not on my wish list.
Storm Clearing, White Sands National Park, New Mexico
Fortunately, the storm broke mid afternoon. Dark clouds began to separate. Sunlight emerged. The trailing sky and weather report looked promising.
White Sands is unusual. There is no lodging available to visitors inside the national park. There is just a visitors center, one main road, and seemingly endless rolling hills of fine white sand. There are ten "back country" campsites in the park. Our permits allowed us to set up tents and remain in the dunes outside of normal operating hours - to witness sunsets, the full moon, the deep night, and several sunrises. In the winter, it can be very cold in the open wilderness, yet big benefits come with your sleeping bag, freeze dried food, and isolation.  Pre Sunrise Glow, White Sands National Park, New Mexico
After exploring the park via the main road in our car, we pulled into a parking area near the campsites, gathered our gear, and set our GPS to mark the location of our vehicle. A word of caution: if you visit White Sands and travel into these dunes, I strongly suggest you bring some form of GPS. Cell coverage is spotty. Maps are not very helpful. The dunes shift often with the wind and weather. It's incredibly easy to get lost in 275 square miles of open desert. At night, the white dunes all look very, very similar. We hiked for about a mile into the sand and left our tents and bags near the designated post (image below). After setting up our camp, we watched the weather improve and then wandered into the dunes.
Campsite, White Sands National Park, New Mexico
The bright white sand, seen from many miles away, forms rolling, classic waves through a cycle that involves erosion, evaporation, and the power of wind.  The Sunset Glow, White Sands National Par, New Mexico
If you are interested, here's a link with an explanation of how the dunes form. The short story? White Sands National Park presents the largest gypsum sand field in the world. The dunes are stunning. In the right light, the bright sand looks like a blanket of snow. The gypsum is dissolved from large, rocky mountains nearby by rainfall and streams. Then, the water with the gypsum mineral deposits flows down the valley where the fluid accumulates and slowly evaporates. This leaves gypsum on the surface of dry lake beds, exposed to the wind.  Sunrise, White Sands National Park, New Mexico
The wind begins to lift and roll the light minerals along the surface of the terrain. Slowly, large crystals from the evaporated water become smaller, rounder, smoother, white gypsum sand. The sand continues to move with the wind and pile up into dunes - nature's magic. These dunes move over time. Scientists estimate the fastest moving parts of the White Sands National Park move at a pace of roughly thirty feet a year. In geological terms, that's fast.  Tapestry, White Sands National Park, New Mexico
We explored miles and miles of the park. Before sunrise, after sunset, and in the midst of night, we wandered about in the dark. We searched for attractive curves and forms in the sand and colorful soft light that felt memorable, those moments when one feels serenity and transition.
We sought untouched spaces of sand that held no memory of human footsteps. At times, this was difficult. Thus, our travels took us further and further away from our base camp.
For most of the trip, we were together. Other times, we wandered independently. Great fun. At night, the full moon helped light our way. GPS was essential. Without this tool, I would still be searching for my tent in the park or hitch hiking on a road near the outskirts of the national park.
I appreciated the quiet and unique color of the desert as I sat on various ridges and watched the light change through long stretches of time. Mesmerizing.  First Light, White Sands National Park, New Mexico
White Sands is a special place. I hope to return. If you have not been to this area, consider a visit. Please call or write me for enthusiastic encouragement.
After a few days at White Sands, we headed north to Chaco Cultural National Historic Park, a beautiful canyon with rock ruins - abandoned structures that formed a community for the ancestral Navajo people. We arrived at the site before sunrise. Both Rob and Tim had been to this area before and served as my guides. This was my first trip. It was cold, dark, and foggy. When we arrived the gates were closed. Later, a ranger opened the site. We explored the primary rock dwellings as the sun rose, the mist cleared, and light began to bounce off the cliff walls nearby. There is one room in the corner of the ruins that lights up in the early morning when conditions are just right. We were fortunate. On the day of our visit, at about 8 AM, the sun broke through the fog and a beautiful orange glow started to build in the ruins.  The Glow Of An Inner Room, Chaco Canyon, Ancient Pueblo Ruins, New Mexico
Our time at Chaco Canyon was blessed. We were the only visitors during our exploration. Yes, there are definite advantages to traveling in the midst of a cold winter! Every room was empty. The only sounds outside of our footsteps and casual banter came from a few birds flying overhead.
I closed my eyes and tried to imagine the experience of the ancestors of the Navajo people living in this space. Dreamlike.
We walked through small living spaces and open doors for several hours. These ruins, home to over a thousand people in about 1,000 AD, remain a fascination.
 Sunset At Shiprock Peak, "Winged Rock," Sacred Navajo Site, New Mexico
After Chaco National Historical Historic Park, we traveled further north to visit Shiprock Peak, a massive, 7,200 foot high rock that emerges from the flat, open fields near the Four Corners area in northern New Mexico.
The first image in this newsletter was produced just after sunrise. On this day, we caught a foggy, cold morning at Shiprock - a common theme. I remember the mysterious, ethereal feel of the moment. Clouds seemed to swirl around the tip of the peak. In the Navajo Nation, this site is known as "Tse Bit A'i" or "Winged Rock." The "wings" are visible at the top of the peak.
There are a number of Navajo legends connected to this site - colorful stories that reflect the movement, growth, and protection of the Navajo community.
Post Sunset Glow, Snow Capped Peaks And Ranch Land Base Of Shiprock, New Mexico
For me, Shiprock touched emotions that are hard to define or express. It's a beautiful peak rising straight upward from raw ranch land. We traveled to an area near the base of the rock three times - two sunrises and a sunset. The views and mood of the rock shifted continually. One morning presented mist so thick we couldn't see more than twenty feet in front of our vehicle. Think damp, gray, wet, swirling soup. On another morning, the rock slowly emerged from low clouds and mist as the sun rose (the first picture in the newsletter). In all of these moments, there was a sense of transition and mystery. The sunset we witnessed at Shiprock was glorious. We watched as the warm orange light on the rock face slowly shifted into shadow and darkness. The clouds to the north of the site glowed with pink and deep blue color. Majestic.
One day near the end of our trip, we made a dash to southern Colorado to visit Mesa Verde National Park.
Mesa Verde is about three hours north of Shiprock by car. Here too, history, culture, and beauty collide.
There are roughly 600 cliff dwellings and thousands of archeological sites in Mesa Verde. We spent time at the visitor center and at Spruce Tree House then drove through the park to witness a variety of viewpoints. Mysterious. Captivating.
Spruce Tree House, Mesa Verde, Southern Colorado
Some cliff dwellings are set in locations that appear reachable by the common man only through magical wings or tall ladders.
The full, six-day road and camping trip blew by quickly with limited sleep, lots of miles in our rental car, memorable companionship, a bit of southwest cuisine, and much joy. White Sands National Park, Chaco Canyon, Mesa Verde, and a quick stop at "New Mexico's Badlands" are special experiences.
Here's an overview of our route. We started and finished in Albuquerque.
Thank you for sharing this journey.
I finish with an short quote that resonates as I plan for the months ahead ... "By three methods we may learn wisdom: First, by reflection, which is noblest; Second, by imitation, which is easiest; and third by experience, which is the bitterest."ConfuciusThis thoughtful advice makes me smile. I continue to learn these lessons over and over again.
Jeff
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