"Jumping For Joy," Adrian, Age 5, The Coast, La Boca
C U B A
A COUNTRY IN TRANSITION
Two weeks ago, I returned from a memorable trip to Cuba. I was fortunate to lead a group of guests through a travel program produced by Cross Cultural Journeys Foundation. With support from local guides, we spent thirteen days exploring Havana, Vinales, Regla, Trinidad, La Boca, Remedios, other cities and villages, and several national parks. This was a U.S. Government-approved program through a "People to People" license. We met with artists, farmers, city planners, community activists, historians, inn keepers, and other professionals. In addition to visiting iconic sites, we took time to wander on the streets and along rural paths. I greatly valued the opportunity to interact with Cuban people from all walks of life. 
"Reflections," Manuel, Age 88, Trinidad Retired Sugar Cane Worker, Blind For 20 Years
Most days, we left our hotel rooms before sunrise, returned for breakfast, and then followed a day's itinerary with breaks for informal exploration. After dinner, we walked the streets and touched a bit of Cuba's fabled night life.  "The View From Above," Havana
The days were hot and humid. The early mornings and evenings were warm and peaceful. In the inner city streets, music often filled the air. We had good fortune on all weather fronts - storms, rain and high wind touched only the fringe of our experience. Like many travelers, I arrived in Cuba with deep interest and many questions. I left with a sense of gratitude, more questions, and renewed hope. The images and stories below express a touch of my experience. My memories are dominated by time with Cuban people and their personal stories. Cuba is a fascinating, captivating place - intoxicating in many ways. Best wishes, Jeff PS: As always, if you want a quick visual tour, you can simply skim a portion of the images with the slider. This is a long missive. I recognize your time may be tight.  "Pondering Tomorrow," Dad And Daughter, Havana
T R A V E L N O T E S
I begin with a short story. One night, we walked along the seashore in Havana and witnessed the flow of life and colorful lights on the edge of the city. We stopped to watch a group of young adults sing and dance near a dented, old car. They were drinking beer, telling stories, and celebrating. Spanish songs flowed from a beat-up stereo in the cracked dashboard. The car windows were down. The volume was turned up. The tattered speakers in the back seat produced rough, scratchy music. I watched as the boys and girls traded verbal challenges and presented a friendly match of salsa dancing. Their colorful outfits swirled in the dark night. I smiled and clapped. I had no illusions. My hips don't move like that. We laughed together. As I left this gathering, I reflected on common experiences throughout the world. These kids had little money and no expensive, modern technologies, no fancy cars and no fashionable clothes, yet their joy and sense of connection was wholly evident. I was reminded of an old saying: "It's not what we have, but what we think we need that defines our sense of contentment." Gatherings of friends and family and spontaneous celebrations like the one described above are widely prevalent in Cuba. This is a country with a deep sense of shared struggle, pain, joy, scarcity, and hope.  "Sunrise Gathering," Remedios
There is a resiliency and a generosity of spirit and a warmth in the Cuban people that impressed me deeply. There are tight bonds between brothers and sisters and parents and children and neighbors and friends. Often, several generations of Cubans and extended relatives live in the same home or cramped apartment and share resources through most of their lives. 
"A Mother's Love," Rodas
"Lania," His Mother's Name, Resides Forever On His Chest
For a traveler, Cuba is filled with contradictions. Wherever one looks, there is vitality, struggle, beauty, exhaustion, and lingering resistance to change found in the same scene. This is a country trapped in time advancing with fragile steps and new found openness. Personal and professional freedoms continue to slowly expand.  "The New Economy," Trinidad
New experiments with small businesses, cooperatives, and incentives of all kinds are increasingly in place to support productivity and creativity. Tourism is growing rapidly. The Government is struggling to re-craft an antiquated and ineffective economy while maintaining control and holding the country's core ideals and vision. The notion of "equality and justice for all" is tattered, yet present. 
"Savoring The Sunset," Juel, Tobacco Farmer, Vinales
Many Tobacco Farmers Tend 100,000s Of Plants Used To Produce Cigars And Cigarettes
The Government Typically Requires 90% Of The Harvest. Farmers Keep The Remainder
Cuba is not a country you quickly experience and immediately understand. It's a country you see, feel, embrace, explore, question, question some more, and ponder. It's wonderful. It's confusing. At times, it's perplexing. My travel experience offered just a flicker of insight into Cuban life, politics, and history. I sense there are many, many layers and threads in this tapestry.  "The Beat Of The Night," Havana
Since the revolution in 1959, both the U.S. government and the Cuban government worked to achieve independent and often conflicted political, economic, and military goals. Tensions evolved. A broad range of human rights and other issues came forward. Political and economic systems collided. Threats were made. The United States embargo and a range of sanctions were established. Media and propaganda campaigns rolled aggressively forward. Fear and uncertainty cast a shadow. The United States worked to cripple the Cuban economy. Little positive change or cooperation evolved. In truth, though, Americans and Cubans share many values. There are opportunities to learn and grow from decades of experience.
Despite the differences in political and economic systems, Cuba reflects many admirable qualities and achievements.
Universal health care with a focus on prevention and community engagement (with very strained resources) stands as a major outcome of note. The need for an effective, low cost model was a necessity within Cuba. Doctors are poorly paid, but well trained, focused, and engaged in meaningful work.
In the urban communities, doctors are assigned to groups of roughly 200 families. Clinics and specialty care are available as secondary tiers of support. Direct relationships form between doctors and the community. Intimacy and awareness evolve - characteristics that the U.S. medical system often loses.
"A New Day," Maribel Marin Villa, 45 Years Old, Trinidad
She Decided To Attend A Government Sponsored University Late In Her Career
She Just Completed Her Advanced Nursing Degree. Her Pride And Excitement Were Evident
Education is deeply valued and continues to be available to all Cubans free of charge.
Literacy and other education goals continue to reflect meaningful commitments by the government.
Children are required by law to attend school until they are at least 17 years old. Universities and technical trade schools provide advanced training.
The battered economy does not offer substantive or attractive job prospects, but much of the Cuban workforce is well educated and holds tremendous capacity for the future. As a quick note, I was told that over 1/4 of the Cuban population holds a University degree.
"Learning In Motion," School Classroom, Havana
An old Cuban adage for the last several decades: "The government pretends to pay us and we pretend to work" is giving way to a new era, a period of development, change, and opportunity. A remodeled version of Cuban socialism and the Cuban economy with some version of capitalism powered by micro-entrepreneurship is brewing. In many ways, our countries seem to be coming closer and closer together, not pulling farther apart.  "The New Inn Keepers," Holio (75 Years Old) And Mercedes Iglacios, Remedios
They Operate A Four Bedroom Hotel In Their Home
The Government Licenses Their Business And Taxes Their Revenue
The Proceeds From This Business Supplement Their Pension
Individuals are now allowed to open restaurants in their homes. The best meals we experienced came from these family oriented establishments.
Small, privately operated stores and mobile fruit and vegetable stands are now allowed. Many of these small businesses thrive.
Rental cars have been available to tourists for a number of years. Recently, Cubans were allowed to rent and use these vehicles.
Cubans are opening hair and nail salons and tiny coffee bars throughout the country. Today, small stores dot the streets and plazas in cities and villages across Cuba.
Private bars and large cafes now appear in major cities.
Options for employment are expanding. Incentives are shifting.
 "Pedal Power," Taxi, Inner City, Havana
Fidel's influence remains significant and there is still bureaucracy and corruption in the system, but the government's overwhelming level of control appears to be in the rear view mirror.
Fidel's brother, Raul, is leading a different Cuba. The next decade will be a new chapter in Cuba's history. Individual rights, opportunities, and responsibilities are all shifting.
 "Holding Hope," Mireya, A Mother And Shop Keeper, RocasDuring Our Meeting, She Suddenly Broke Into Tears. Her Son Is In Prison For Seven Years She Said He Tried To Break Up A Street Fight. He Was Arrested. No Chance For An Appeal The Justice System In Cuba Can Be Harsh. Prison Is Reported To Be Brutal  "Patchwork," Regla Cars Are Used In Cuba For Decades And Decades. Parts Are Difficult To Obtain Self Sufficiency And Innovative Repairs Are Prized The lingering influence of the Soviet Union's collapse and Cuba's related crisis, which forced Cuba to become more self sufficient, and the economic realities associated with feeding, providing health care, educating, and supporting 11 million people continue to nudge the country forward. Yet, old dependencies, established bureaucracy, corruption, and well worn habits are difficult to change.
For a traveler, Cuba feels both young and old, faded and glimmering, weak and vital.
 "Twelve Feet In Motion," The Joy Of A Neighborhood Street Race, Havana
The Older Man Leaning Against The Wall Started The Race
Yes. I Joined The Festivities. Great Fun
Then, An Older, Fast-Footed, Barefoot Cuban Seized The Opportunity To Pummel
A Slow American. Laughter
Today, many Cubans speak openly about difficulties in the past and opportunities for the present.
The character of the country's future is not clear, yet the pace of change is accelerating.
Despite past hardships and difficulties, many Cubans express national pride and a belief in the country's core values.
It's not uncommon to hear a phrase such as: "Our country may be broken, but I am proud to be Cuban."
"Four Generations Of Hope," Magarita Sanchez, 73 Years Old, Great Grandmother, Havana
"Morning Moments," Lorenzo And Stephanie, Small Village In The Hills Near Vinales
Sesame Street Plays In Spanish On An Old Black And White Television
This Family Supplements Government Payments With A Small Recycling Business
For many Cubans, a deep and sustained reliance on the Cuban government continues.
Basic life requirements such as a home and secure access to food and viable employment are a challenge for much of the population.
A traditional diet for most Cubans contains rice, beans, touches of vegetables, and bits of protein. The cost of more elaborate meals is out of reach.
Today, the government's resources are strained. There are few private jobs. There is a tremendous need for infrastructure renewal, economic incentives, and capital.
As a tourist, one feels a sense of abundance. Meals are huge. Large buffets are common. For almost all Cuban families, though, money is tight. Ration books and subsidized food costs are a part of survival.
It's not an easy path to feed and support a family on less than $20 a month - the average monthly wage. Yet, this is the life many Cubans know. 
"Laughter Is Gold," Umberto, 41 Years Old, Old Square, Havana
He Earns 260 Cuban Pesos A Month (Roughly $14). Yet, He Supports A Family of Four
The Government Ration Book Allows Him To Survive
The government owns the land. Cubans occupy the buildings. There are large government divisions that manage placement and allocation of properties. In many buildings several families are cramped together. Densely.
The cost of building repair and maintenance is outside the reach for many families and individuals. Throughout the country, one encounters crumbling infrastructure. Funding for paint, glass, tile, and other improvements remains scarce.
"Colonial Memories," Unit 4, Regla
"Crumbling," Apartments, Havana
If you gaze down almost any street in Havana and other Cuban cities and then shut your eyes, you can envision an era long ago, a time with bright opulence and color, a point in history when colonial styled mansions and apartments reflected Cubans' wealth and power.
Imagine building almost an entire city in a few decades and then holding off on almost all repairs and maintenance for fifty years. Ah, Cuba.
 "The Blue Door," Regla
Today, there are countless perplexing questions facing Cuba.Is it possible to build a common commitment to the "good of all" and "equity for all" when individuals bring different skills, training, resources, contributions, and motivation to each new day?
Salaries and financial opportunities are far from equitable. Many highly trained professionals work two, three, or four jobs just to survive.
Is it possible to develop and retain talented professionals when compensation and growth opportunities are much greater in almost all other countries in the world?
Those Cubans with financial resources from abroad and/or access to funds from tourists (tips and private revenue) live differently than the majority of the citizens in this country.
"Home Delivery," Pork For Those With Financial Means, Remedios
Our local guide for the first eight days of our trip, Yvette, received a tip that equates to over a year and a half of salary for the average Cuban. She was wonderful and we were delighted to support her, but how can this be viable? In a few weeks of work, she can earn more than a lawyer or an engineer earns in a year.
We met farmers who work in cooperative farms with new business models that include profit sharing programs. Some of these individuals receive more salary and bonus than a well established Cuban surgeon currently receives. These types of disparities seem odd and unsustainable. How can the government reward creativity, productivity, and individual achievement while preserving Socialist ideals? This is a period of change. "Tending The Red, Rich Dirt," Pablo, Cooperative Farm, Havana
"Profit Sharing On The Farm," Incentives For Productivity And Creativity, Havana
This Cooperative Farm In The Inner City, Built On 11 Acres Of Land, Is A Model For Success
Workers Are Given Bonus Shares After Each Time Period Based On Sales And Profit
The Chart Shows The Bonus In Cuban Pesos For Staff At Different Levels In The Organization
Remittances (money coming to the country from relatives and friends who are living overseas) transforms individual and family circumstances significantly.
There is tremendous tension between the pull of family and friends in Cuba and the allure and impact of immigration overseas.
Even modest amounts of cash from foreign relationships, often sent without any trace in a Cuban bank or financial institution, transform a Cuban family's experience. I am told over $2 Billion flows into Cuba each year through quiet, undocumented channels. While I was on our flight to Cuba from Miami, I was told by ex-residents of Cuba that funds are often given to "agents" in Miami and other parts of the United States. After a small fee is extracted, these funds quickly and quietly appear in the hands of citizens in Cuba. It's a cash movement system based on trust and reputation for intermediaries. There appears to be little tracking of funds or control. Family members and friends in Europe and the United States care for their relatives and their friends in Cuba by sending money. Even $100 a year in foreign gifts, makes a tremendous difference to the average Cuban.
Rural Farm House, Vinales
There are two currencies in Cuba today. Those Cubans who have access to tourist dollars (CUCs) and/or remittances live quite differently than the majority of Cubans who have government jobs paid in Cuban Pesos.
Most Cubans work hard to cover all of their expenses - both in legal jobs and secondary occupations.
 "The Joy Of Connection," A Nurse Walking To Work With Her Cell Phone, Regla The signs of a tightly controlled country remain. Cubans have few of the rights and privileges we often take for granted here in the United States.
There is one national newspaper. All content is controlled and managed by the Cuban government.
There are a narrow band of television stations. Almost all of the content is managed, curated, and produced by the Cuban government. Until recently, no foreign TV news programming was allowed. Today, several CNN reports from South America are broadcast each week.
Internet access is almost non existent throughout the country. Information does not move freely. Few Cubans have Email addresses.
Many Cubans are not allowed to move their home or modify their profession without government engagement.
Apartments and homes can now be owned by Cuban citizens, but the government continues to own the land.
Guests in tourist hotels remain tightly controlled. One of our group members had a Cuban friend come to the hotel for a meeting. The Cuban citizen was asked to leave identification, define his time for the visit, and justify his interaction with an American before entrance to the facility. When all of these steps were complete, this visitor stated to our group member: "Please understand. This is Cuba."
The vision from Fidel was "cradle to grave" support for Cubans, tight control, and deep partnership between the government and the Cuban people.
These commitments are shifting, morphing.
"Convertibles For Hire," Miguel, The Master Salesman, Havana
Over the last few years, the Cuban political leadership has transferred 500,000+ Cubans off the government payroll. Given the scarcity of resources and modest performance of the Cuban economy, the need to reduce government expenditures is a financial necessity.
The flip side is new freedoms and new professional licenses of many types as the country extends experiments with individuals running businesses and some version of Cuban capitalism.
Two hundred plus opportunities for small business activity are now promoted and supported by the government.
In the last several months, announcements have been made that the Cuban government plans to combine the two current Cuban currencies into one national currency. That's big news. Many Cubans expressed delight at this possibility. There are a range of banking and other controls on current currency exchanges.
The government also recently announced plans to provide new opportunities for Cuban athletes and cultural icons to travel and work outside of Cuba.
These and other recent government proposals would have shocked every Cuban just a few years ago.
The entire Cuban economic and political system is in the midst of uncomfortable, yet promising change.
"Tutoring Through Time," Santa Clara
The Government Helps With Payments To Support A Retiree's Business
This Allows Many Retired Teachers And Other Professionals To Supplement Their Pension
These Programs Also Allow Students Who Need Special Support To Receive Assistance
Success With Literacy And Other Core Subjects Is Not An Option
I don't wish to paint a purely pretty picture of life and change in Cuba.
At times, one sees years of pain and hardship on Cubans' faces. For many Cubans, the path has not been easy.
 "A Tattered Road," A Security Guard's Reflection, Main Pier, Regla
Through the years, millions of Cubans have fled to seek brighter opportunities and/or avoid discrimination, abuse, and hopelessness.
The story is not simple or clean.
The remaining images share moments from my travels. Inspiration, touches of emotion, and scenes from everyday life.
You may enjoy these quick glimpses.
 "Dancing Dreams," Talia, Marcia, Gabriela, Diane, 9 Years Old, Spanish Academy, Havana
They Expressed Their Dream - To Work As Professional Dancers Throughout The World
"Dance Moves," Learning To Salsa, Las Terrazo, Havana
 "Strike The Pose," Spanish Dance Academy, Havana
A massive portion of Cuba's landscape is undeveloped. That's one of the many perplexing issues facing the country.
"Green Space," Vinales
The electrical grid needs help.
"Urban Power," Electricity Meters, Vinales
The inner cities were built fifty to seventy years ago with little upkeep since that time. 
"Time Stands Still," Havana
Cubans seem to be born with a special quality of Spanish dance bones.
"Rocking The Beat," Buena Vista Social Club Performance, Havana
Throughout the country, commercials and billboards are few and public media is reserved for government messaging. It's odd to be in a country with so little commercial advertising.
"Static Motion," Classic Car, Old Center, Havana
Fast Food Is Coming.
"A New Nation," Trinidad
During my travel to Cuba, I stopped for a night in Miami. There, I visited "Little Havana." It was interesting to see the way Cuban families with new roots in the United States reflect both pride in their native country and a connection to the new values and culture of America.
Here's an image from a barber shop in Miami ..
"Pride," An Evening At The Barber Shop, Little Havana, Miami Image Taken On Route To Cuba
When I was in Cuba, I went to barber shops and introduced myself. I enjoyed the reflection between the two experiences.
 "Tradition," A Barber Shop In Remedios, Cuba
There is a mixture of old and new throughout major cities in Cuba.
Havana is a special place. At sunrise, the waves and city lights glow.
 The Malecon At Daybreak, Havana
Walking the streets at night reminded me of a Spanish version of a TV program set in the 50s. Old cars. Tight T Shirts. Colorful women.
 "A Mixture Of Time," The Night Scene, Remedios
 "Daybreak in Havana"
 "The Brotherhood," Taxis At Night, Remedios
Government stores to support ration books are prevalent in every city and most villages. These outlets provide the core of most family's food for each month.
"Grateful," Government Ration Book, Vinales
The Rations Cover Beans, Rice, And Minimal Protein For About Two Weeks Each Month
All Cuban Families Benefit From This Government Assistance
Cubans Pay For Food From Government Stores At About 20% Of Commercial Rates
 Accounting For Distributions, Ration Book, Vinales
Gathering Beans And Rice, Government Ration Store, Vinales
When you wander on the streets, you meet families with compelling stories.
 "Savoring My Family," Ignacio, 59 Years Old (On Right), Rodas He Works At Three Jobs To Support His Family - Security, Bicycle Repair, Pig Farming Ignacio Turned Down An Offer To Travel Illegally To The U.S., A $10,000 Option He Shared His Life Philosophy: "Nothing Is More Important Than Family. Money Will Not Buy Me Happiness."  Recycling, Trinidad Given The Country's Dependency On Imports And The Impact Of The Embargo, Reuse Is Key
 "Broken," Albert, A Local Artist Reflects On A Street Under Repair, Havana
"Antiques In Motion," Havana
"A Famer's Tale," Pipo, Tobacco Farmer, Vinales
His Family Lived In A Town Nearby And, For Many Years, He Tended The Farm
Recently, Electricity Was Extended To His Farm. His Family Moved To Join Him
Pipo Grows Hundreds Of Thousands Of Tobacco Plants For The Government Each Year
He Lives On Ration Books, A Government Salary, And A Share Of 10% Of His Team's Harvest
 Vegetable Merchant, A Government Experiment In Small Business, Havana
Gas Station, Vinales
Gasoline Is Sold At A Slightly Higher Price Than It Is Sold In The U.S.
Cuba Has Some Oil And Gas Resources, But The Oil Is Too Thick And Contains Too Much Sulfur For Vehicles. Cuba's Oil Is Used To Help Make Roads And To Generate Electricity
 "Marbles And Street Kings," Kids At Play, HavanaIn The Evenings, The Streets Are Alive With Motion
"The Road Home," Kids Returning From Mandatory School, Remedios  "First Light On The Malecon," Havana
 Washing Yuca, A Vegetable, In The Street After The Rain, Remedios  "Music In the Air," Streets Of Havana
This Artist Wished To Soften The Tone Of His Music
A Fancy Tool Used Here In The U.S. Is Way Too Expensive. Thus, The Newspaper
A Simple, Low Cost Solution Driven By Necessity
 "The World Game," Football (Soccer) On The Streets, Havana
An Uneven Field And A Shredded Net Are A Natural Challenge
 "Chess," Inner Streets, Old Section Of Havana
 "A Mixture Of Beliefs," Catholic And African Spiritual Beliefs Are Intertwined, Havana
This Altar Is Located In A Large Inner City Garden For Workers
 "The Great Wait," Central Train Station, Havana  The Ferry Building, HavanaDuring Our Trip, We Took A Ferry From This Building. The Level Of Security Was Surprising
Metal Detectors. Guards. Pat Down Searches. Questions About Knives And Guns
Turns Out, The Ferry Was Hijacked Six Years Ago. A Failed Effort To Reach The United States
Christopher Columbus Cemetery, Havana
The Fourth Largest Cemetery In The World
53,000 Monuments
Many Cubans With Modest Financial Means Are Buried In This Cemetery
 The Fertility Spirit, Christopher Columbus Cemetery, Havana
Women Believe Rubbing The Sacred Statue Will Assist In Pregnancy And Other Family Issues
 "A Mobile Store Front," Train Station, Central Havana
This Woman Has Built An Entire Merchandise Program In A Baby Carriage
Innovation Is Driven By Necessity
 "The Lure Of Video Games"
Without Money, Kids Sit For Hours And Watch Previews, Central Train Station, Havana
 "Expression," A Local Artist's Home, Near Vinales
 "Street Life," Kids At Play, Inner City, Havana 
If you have the interest and the opportunity, I encourage you to visit Cuba. Sooner is likely to be better than later. In time, when the United States lifts the embargo and trade and foreign investment accelerate aggressively, Cuba will change quickly. Perhaps, too quickly. Unleashing the power of a massive, international commercial engine may overwhelm this small island. I hope the values, national identity, beauty, and sense of community one appreciates throughout Cuba can be retained.
I hope Cuba's government finds new ways to reinforce values of equity and justice and enable positive possibilities for Cuban people.
Without question, I am a bit intoxicated by the warmth and spirit of this land.
I finish with two quotes .. "Hasta La Victoria Sempre" (Always Continue To Victory)
A Quote From The Che Memorial In Santa Clara, Cuba A Message That Speaks To The Power Of Passion And
The Importance Of Persistence Toward Ideals
"The Human Being Is The Only Animal That Stumbles Twice On The Same
As a footnote, some of you recently asked if I will return to Cuba. Last week, I was asked to consider leading a new travel program in the Fall or Winter of 2014. These decisions will sort out in the next several months. Let me know if you hold an interest in joining this tour.If you wish to gain more insight on Cuba, this article remains a favorite for me:
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