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UPPER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA
E X P L O R I N G A N T E L O P E C A N Y O N,
H O R S E S H O E B E N D, A N D M O N U M E N T VA L L E Y
Warm greetings.
Through the years, I savored magazine articles and captivating images produced by passionate travelers in Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend in northern Arizona and Monument Valley in southern Utah. Descriptions of stunning light, radiant red, purple, and yellow carved rock, and the spirit of the southwestern desert connected with my love for wilderness and open space. These locations joined my ever-expanding bucket list.
In late October, two friends and I made a four and a half day dash into this playground.
We flew to Phoenix and drove north for about four hours to the town of Page to visit Horseshoe Bend at sunrise and Owl, Rattlesnake, and Upper Antelope Canyon in early and mid-day light.
PAGE, ARIZONA
 SUNRISE, HORSESHOE BEND, PAGE, ARIZONA
A sign near Horseshoe Bend described the deep river and nearly 360 degree curve in the gorge with a wonderful term: "entrenched meandering." I love this notion. There is something raw, fluid, surreal, and captivating in this site. As the sun rose, the distant horizon and red canyon walls gently glowed. We were alone in the dark on the edge of a stunning cliff. Whispers of pale pink, orange, and soft yellow tone filled the stillness. We sat for hours absorbing the shifting light and reflections on the dark blue water and red rock. It was cold and wonderful. The experience resonated deeply. After sunrise, we spent a day exploring three "slot" canyons.  UPPER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA
AFTERNOON LIGHT, UPPER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA
First, we visited Owl and Rattlesnake slot canyons which are on private Navajo land. Joy. The next canyon we explored, Upper Antelope, is the most famous. Three of us crowded into a small open slot with our cameras and about five hundred thousand loud and excited Japanese, European, and American tourists. Crazy. Smothering. Bewildering. Mental health eroding. Uncomfortable. Mixed with touches of quiet and incredible contours, color, and light. There were precious moments, but you had to grasp for brief breaks in the flowing chaos. After about an hour and a half, we left this canyon shaking our heads.
That evening, we traveled several hours to the northeast through Navajo country to Monument Valley where we spent two and a half days and much of the night exploring desert landscape.
Memorable. MONUMENT VALLEY
"I go to nature to be soothed and healed, and to
have my senses put in order."
John Burroughs
 MOONRISE, ARTIST'S POINT, MONUMENT VALLEY
Each evening, bright light faded slowly into a soft sunset and then on toward a dark blue sky that held bright, glimmering stars.
In the early morning, strokes of orange and red lined the horizon.
 SUNRISE, THE MITTENS, MONUMENT VALLEY
As the sun rose and touched the rim of Monument Valley, black silhouettes of rock weathered by thousands of years of wind, rain, snow, heat and cold stood firm - desert guardians through time.
SUNRISE, TOTEM POLE, MONUMENT VALLEY
"What humbugs we are, who pretend to live
for Beauty, and never see the Dawn."
Logan Pearsall Smith
 EARLY MORNING LIGHT, TOTEM POLE, MONUMENT VALLEY
As bright sunlight shifted and each day neared an end, the colors of Monument Valley deepened, shadows lengthened, and the light breeze began to settle. Intoxicating. Addictive.
SUNSET, NORTH WINDOW, MONUMENT VALLEY
The Valley is filled with unusual rock formations, pale green and yellow brush, red sand and dirt, weathered trees, dried, baked river beds, and fascinating history.
WEATHERED TREE, NORTH WINDOW, MONUMENT VALLEY
At times, in the last moments of daylight, the rock and sand floor of the Valley appeared to be on fire. The reds and pinks were intense. The clouds reflected the final touch of the sun. Magic light. A touch of serenity.
SUNSET, THE MITTENS, MONUMENT VALLEY
"Man's heart away from nature becomes hard."
Standing Bear, Native American
THE SLOT CANYONS
The canyons are shaped by water, wind, and time. Portions of the walls appear like smooth waves frozen in stormy weather.
EARLY MORNING LIGHT, RATTLESNAKE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA As the direction and height of the sun shift, purple, red, and yellow tones dance on the walls.
AFTERNOON LIGHT, LOWER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA The rock expresses sharp, rough edges in some areas of the canyons and silky smooth curves in other regions.
AFTERNOON LIGHT, UPPER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE ARIZONAAt each section of the canyons, spectacular views evolve above, behind, to the side, below, and in front of you. Kneeling down in the fine dust, laying on the ground, and pulling up onto nearby rock edges offer entirely new vistas.
There is a constant sense of change and discovery.
AFTERNOON LIGHT, LOWER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA
AFTERNOON LIGHT, LOWER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA
AFTERNOON LIGHT, LOWER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA
 AFTERNOON LIGHT, LOWER ANTELOPE CANYON, PAGE, ARIZONA
THE NAVAJO NATION
One afternoon, we drove into a large Navajo Reservation near Monument Valley. We rolled by old trailers, modest homes, and traditional Navajo dwellings (round buildings with an open chimney in the middle) spread across mesas and rolling hills and valleys. Pale earth tones were interrupted bright spots of yellow and red within the rocks and trees.
 YELLOW CANOPY, OLJATO, NAVAJO RESERVATION
In one quiet valley, we saw an old wooden home near a set of stunning poplar trees with fall colors. A woman stood on the porch. We pulled over to the side of the dirt road and slid our rental car to a dusty stop. I left the driver's seat, climbed a small ridge, and introduced myself from about a hundred yards away. I wasn't sure if the reception would be open. Fortunately, a conversation evolved. After a few moments, I met this kind Navajo woman's husband, Chris. He too is pure Navajo. He grew up on the reservation, went to a nearby school, and held dozens of jobs as a nomadic metalworker.
 CHRIS, NAVAJO RESERVATION, OLJATO Chris spoke to us about the experience of the Navajo community. He spoke of his childhood journey, his family's small ranch, the current challenges and structure of his town, and an early school education that forced him to abandon the Navajo language and culture and learn English and English ways. He described his local Navajo "chapter" which stands as one of roughly 120 in the Navajo Nation and spoke about the tough choices around gambling and culture and the state of Navajo youth. He recently lost his job and struggles to support a family of five, yet he held a certain peace and calm. He shared his thoughts and stories openly and directly.  WEATHERED TREE, OLJATO, NAVAJO RESERVATION
It was fascinating to hear his description of the Navajo elders' views toward casinos - a short-term financial opportunity that holds tremendous risk for younger generations. Thus, unlike many tribes, gambling has not been approved. The Navajo Nation lost significant income, but reached to hold core values and beliefs. I wonder how many of our "modern" communities have the capacity to make decisions with such a long-term view. Chris spoke of the many Navajo returning to the reservation to ensure their children connect with ancient traditions and their elders. He shared the efforts underway to resurrect the Navajo language. He described the Navajo history of living on the land and valuing family, earth, and community. He also described the pervasiveness of technology and western culture - today, the entire reservation is wired with high-bandwidth internet and cable television access. His children maintain one leg in the richness of past Navajo tradition and one leg in the modern world. This most be a tough balance. His daughter plays competitive volleyball and attends school and camps much like kids throughout the country. When we visited his home, his daughter had just finished a tournament in Salt Lake City and was attending an Outward Bound wilderness program.  "SACRED TOURS," NAVAJO NATION
Within the Navajo reservation, large open, undisturbed landscapes and commercial interests are intertwined. The bright roadside stand above brought a long pause, laughter, and a smile.
FULL MOON
Our trip was scheduled to overlap with an auspicious period when the moon was full and the weather held great promise.
Monument Valley did not disappoint.
SUNSET, THE THREE SISTERS, MONUMENT VALLEY
Memories of soft light, textures shaped by wind and relentless erosion, subtle earth tones, and rock formations linger.
 SUNRISE, SAND RIPPLES, MONUMENT VALLEY
On our last day in Monument Valley, we walked out into the warm sand near the edge of a small ravine a few hours before sunset to watch the full moon rise between the well-known "Mittens." The bright sunshine gave way to a palette of pale colors that faded slowly into a dark blue sky.
The light from the moon was spectacular. The entire Valley seemed both still and alive.
For three hours, we stood watching a dance of light and color. Pure, quiet, and uplifting. Gratitude.
 MOONRISE, TWO MITTENS, MONUMENT VALLEY
If you have an opportunity to visit this region, I encourage you to jump at the chance. I hope to return. Soon.
"The world is mud-luscious and puddle-wonderful"
e.e. cummings Best wishes,
Jeff PS: I recently updated my photography website. If you wish to see more imagery, review an archive of past newsletters, and/or access other resources, here's a link: www.jeffreydavisphotography.com
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About Jeffrey Davis
Jeff is an award winning public television producer, documentary film director, passionate photographer and advocate, nonprofit fundraiser, management consultant, wilderness fan, athlete, and lifelong student. He brings twenty-five years of marketing, general management, and strategy experience with leading commercial and nonprofit organizations to his work. Jeff's photography website is at: www.jeffreydavisphotography.com
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