It's been a long winter! We are all looking forward to the warmer weather- unfortunately, that means fleas. Are you ready? Flea infestations in New England are becoming more and more common with each passing year. It is important to understand the vulnerable life stages of the flea, and the methods available to eliminate them from your home- or better yet, keep them from invading in the first place! 

There are four life stages; they include the egg, the larvae, the pupae, and the adult.  Knowledge of the stages which are resistant to treatment and the time frames for each life cycle help in formulating an effective flea control plan.  It is essential to note that the egg and pupae stages are more resistant to extermination.

The female flea can lay 20-40 eggs daily. Eggs are produced on the pet, but will easily fall off into the surroundings. They can take from two days to two weeks to hatch. Generally speaking, about one third of the population of fleas in a home are in the egg stage. Although this stage is resistant to insecticides, it may be susceptible to some insect growth regulators (IGR), which will inhibit the flea's ability to hatch from the shell of the egg.

Flea larvae feed on feces from the adult fleas. The feces consists of digested blood and is commonly known as "flea dirt". Larvae like to live in areas of low light, and safe from summer heat because they cannot survive heat greater than 95 degrees. They will mature and pupate in as little as 9 days under ideal conditions. They make up more than half of the population of fleas in a home.   This stage is susceptible to insecticides, borates, and insect growth regulators.

Although flea pupae make up about only 8% of the flea population within a home, this life stage is nearly invincible.  The pupae spin a cocoon that protects them from freezing, desiccation, and insecticides, and can lie dormant for many months.  Their hardiness and their ability to remain dormant from 16 days to several months at a time means treating for a flea infestation can be an extensive process.

Adult fleas will not emerge from their cocoons until they detect a nearby host. They lie dormant for months until vibration, carbon dioxide levels, or sound and light patterns indicate that there is a host present.   Once an adult flea finds a host and takes its first blood meal, metabolic changes occur within the flea. This "fed" flea can no longer survive for extended periods without a blood meal. The female then begins to produce eggs within 24 to 48 hours. Adult fleas can live and reproduce for approximately 4 to 6 weeks.

Some illnesses and health issues that can be created by a flea infestation are:

Flea Anemia results when a pet is so overloaded with adult fleas that they become weak from blood loss.  At particular risk are small, young, or immunocompromised patients.  

Feline Infectious Anemia occurs when a flea carrying the mycoplasma bacteria bites a cat. The organisms transmitted parasitize the cat's red blood cells and cause anemia. Unfortunately, even if the cat survives this condition, it becomes a lifetime carrier, and the condition can resurface in times of stress.  

Cat Scratch Fever or Bartonellosis is a bacterial infection that has zoonotic potential. It generally does not cause clinical signs in an infected cat, but a scratch or bite from an infected cat can make a person sick.

Tapeworm infections, while not particularly harmful, are unappealing and can leave rice like segments or eggs on an infected animal's fur and bedding.

Many steps can be taken to prevent or control a flea infestation in your home. One of the simplest and least invasive steps is to vacuum daily. This helps to remove eggs, larvae and adults from the environment.  It is important to vacuum all carpets, couches and other cushioned furniture, cracks and crevices on floors, baseboards, and the basement.

Steam cleaning is also an effective method for treating carpets. All stages of the flea life cycle are vulnerable to  hot steam and soap.

Any bedding or fabric that pets may be laying on should be washed in hot, soapy water at least once weekly.

After cleaning your home, carpets, furniture and bedding, it is important to make your pet a less "tasty meal" for fleas. There are many products to consider. They vary in their active ingredients, the different life stages of the flea that they control and/or eliminate, their safety, and their ease of application.

The best plan for effectively preventing or treating a flea infestation is to use a product or products that will attack the flea at two or more stages of it's life cycle. Most of the over the counter insecticide collars, dusts, and sprays treat only adult fleas. Other disadvantages of these products include: frequency of use, difficulty of use, and safety. Many of these products contain compounds such as carbamates and organophosphates which have a higher toxicity in mammals. That being said, there are many oral and topical options that can provide safe and effective control and prevention of a flea problem in your home.

Topical options, which generally are applied over the shoulder blade or along the spine are absorbed through the skin and provide full body coverage. Caution must be taken when purchasing these products over the counter. Some of the available spot on treatments are toxic to cats, and some do not have proven efficacy against any of the flea life stages.

To find an appropriate medication for your pet, please feel free to compare some tested and approved medications by clicking here or call to discuss your pets specific needs with one of our knowledgeable staff members!