A new book, left, helps to explain the brilliance of artisan sourdough breads like those made fresh daily on-site by Shawn Saunders and available in store. Stephen Yafa sifted through all the research he could find on the gluten controversy and came away with a nuanced view. While mega-selling books like Grain Brain and Wheat Belly make wheat the new asbestos, Yafa finds a happy medium whereby a properly made sourdough can be an ideal source of grain-based nutrition. "Fermentation methods and other processing techniques play a vital role in determining whether wheat is healthful or potentially harmful to the 99 percent of us who do not suffer from celiac disease," he says. Whole grains that don't have the bran and germ stripped off to use for animal feed are also part of the answer, he says.