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Greetings!
You may already know that Kristy's last day at Papershell was this past Sunday. We are sad to see her go but she is moving to the north part of Houston for family reasons. I know you all join me in wishing her the very best!
Next time you visit Papershell, say hello to Kara Holub, who is working in the morning on Tuesdays through Fridays, and Cathy Hood who will be working as a cashier on Saturdays! I'm sure you will find them as helpful and charming as I do.
Have you been wondering about the hawks? There are definitely baby birds up there - we can hear them peeping when Mom and Dad bring home dinner. The babies aren't yet big enough to peek up over the nest, so I don't have a good picture for you but they've definitely arrived! I hope by the next newsletter to have a good picture of our new babies.
 | | Hibiscus 'Baby Girl' |
This Sunday is the Hibiscus Show & Sale in Sugar Land at the Nights of Columbis Hall, 702 Burney. The show is sponsored by the Lone Star Chapter of the American Hibiscus Society. Whether you're a hibiscus aficionado or a complete novice, you'll certainly enjoy this show. If I could sneak away, I would join you!
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Caladiums
One of the very best things about summer - caladium time! I love caladiums. For great summer color, you just cannot beat that beautiful big leaf. Caladiums nodding in the shade are for me a classic Houston garden look but the newer varieties are quite sun-tolerant. For more information on growing caladiums, here's an article from our website.
And now, some of our very favorite caladiums, pictures courtesy of JJL Greenhouses in Houston, one of our local growers.
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Watering Trees & Shrubs
I know it's not hot yet, but the hot weather is coming and perhaps it's time for a little refresher on watering trees and shrubs. Established shrubs (those planted for longer than 18 months or so) are not as "thirsty" as newer ones. Always keep in mind that when you plant a new shrub, the root ball is only as big as the pot it came out of. If you use sprinkler systems to water your landscaping, the water really has to get right where the shrub is planted, because the roots haven't grown enough to reach any further. A general rule of thumb for planting new shrubs is to water every day (but not flooding) for the first week, then every other day for the second week, then 2-3 times a week for the third week, and then once a week after that, for the first year or so. Unless, of course, it rains.  | | Better for newly planted trees and shrubs |
Trees also need special watering. It is usually not possible to have the sprinkler system water a tree sufficiently without flooding the lawn it's planted in. The best thing is to water with a hose for a long time, once or twice a week, while the tree is getting established. Your goal is to maintain constant moisture of the root ball. Allowing the roots to dry on a tree or shrub can kill the plant in short order! Watering trees and shrubs properly minimizes any transplant shock and helps get a good strong root system established. For more information, I think you will enjoy this brochure from the Clemson University Extension (PDF).
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Imidacloprid & Honeybees
As we approach the warmer season, I'm getting ready for you to come see me with stories of citrus leafminers on your lemon trees and black sooty mold on your crape myrtles. We talked about the leafminers last time, so let's talk a bit about the black sooty mold this time.
 | | Black Sooty Mold |
Black sooty mold is an unsightly problem for crape myrtles (and anything planted under crape myrtles!) In and of itself, black sooty mold isn't really a big deal. It does not harm the trees that much, although in bad cases it can interfere with photosynthesis and cause premature leaf drop. Mainly, though, it's just ugly. What's causing the trouble are aphids in the trees, sucking juices out of the leaves and secreting a sticky honeydew. The black sooty mold grows on the honeydew. If you solve the aphid problem, the sooty mold goes away.
 | | Aphid - highly magnified |
Although it is listed for crape myrtles, I am no longer recommending a popular systemic insecticide containing imidacloprid for flowering plants. I think the evidence is fairly clear that it harms honeybees. It is also possible that these insecticides play a role in Colony Collapse Disorder. You can read all about it on our website here.
In lieu of the systemic insecticide, I recommend first preserving natural enemies of the aphid by limiting your use of broad-spectrum insecticides. Next try spraying the leaves with a strong jet of water to remove the aphid. They have such a short lifespan that simply removing from the tree is often disruptive enough to prevent a major infestation. You can also use soapy water to "wash" the sooty mold off the leaves or insecticidal soal to kill the aphids. Horticultural spray oils, including neem, can also be effective.
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Please stop by and visit! Have a glass of world-famous lemonade (or a beer!) -- we'd love to meet you!
Sincerely,
Elizabeth Barrow
Papershell: A Garden Gallery
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Hibiscus Show & Sale Sunday, April 29 1:00-4:00pm The Lone Star Chapter of the American Hibiscus Society is having a show and sale at the Knights of Columbus Hall in Sugar Land. The address is 702 Burney Road. There will be many hibiscus on sale, both exotic and traditional. I know you will enjoy this wonderful show! For more information about the Lone Star Chapter of the American Hibiscus Society, see their website.
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| Caladiums: Hot Color for Cool Shade Growing caladiums in our zone 9A gardens.
But Is It Safe For Bees? Why I no longer recommend imidacloprid for flowering plants.
Blackberries or Dewberries? How to tell the difference.
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