We include this article each April, with some updates. Remember, the most important step in managing invasives is to prevent seeds from setting for next year.
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Garlic Mustard: The green leaves of plants that have over wintered are visible peaking through the leaves on the ground. This photo shows what it looks like now.
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A variety of non-native species (aquatic and terrestrial plants, animals, and other organisms) have been introduced to Connecticut. Non-native species are alien to Connecticut's ecosystem and can cause economic, environmental or ecological harm. Non-native species can be aggressive and choke out native species. These are referred to as invasive species and they are a serious problem in Connecticut and elsewhere.
Here are some pointers on how to manage invasives:
Don't plant invasives. Invasive plants are here because humans brought them. There are plenty of enjoyable garden plants that don't do harm, and there are plenty of native plants that are beneficial to the environment.
Make sure you are trying to kill the right plant. It is easy to misidentify something. You can end up pulling up the good guys, and carefully transplanting the bad. The Connecticut Invasive Plants Working Group, the Natural Resources Conservation Service, and the USDA all have very good information about invasives on their websites, including photos. If you're still not sure, consult with local experts, ask a knowledgeable friend, wait until it flowers, etc. See the schedule below for more information on how to identify some common invasives.
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Japanese Knotweed: Reddish stalks with green leaves poke through and grow at a very rapid rate.
If you spend some time cutting stalks while they are 18" or less high, be sure to put this pest to good use-these can be used in just about any recipe that call for rhubarb. Click here for a few recipes available from the New England Wildflower Society.
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Know the plant you are trying to eradicate. Different approaches work for different plants. For example, a plant that spreads by roots has to be treated differently than one that spreads only by seed; one that tolerates shade can be harder to kill than a full-sun plant.
Get ahead of the invasion. It is much easier to pull up a few small seedlings than to remove a forest. Many invasive plants are spread by bird droppings, so keep an eye out for unidentified plants underneath bird-roosting places, such as trees and fence posts. The earlier in spring you get started, the better.
Manage from the edge. Let's assume that the bad guys got going somehow and now you want to clear them out. The first step is the stop the spread by pushing back the newer and weaker growth at the border of the patch, rather than trying to pull out the largest plant.
Remove the entire root. Once you start pulling plants, make sure you prevent re-sprouting by removing the entire root.
Stop the seeds. Even if you can't do anything else, if you can stop the plant from going to seed, you will limit the amount of damage that the plant does.
Disposal. Once you have separated the unwanted plant from the land, what do you do with it? If the plant has mature seeds on it, the seeds go anywhere the dead plant goes (e.g. your compost pile). Birds will feast on the dump leavings and then spread the seeds. Likewise, many of these plants can re-root themselves if there's any contact with the soil. The best method is to bag the seeds and roots in black plastic and leave the bag in direct sun to totally dry out. If you get the plant early in the year before it has seeds, bushes in particular, can be turned upside down in place so that the roots can not touch the soil again, even with the help of a strong wind. In a wild area, the up-ended bushes make good brush-pile habitat.
Celebrate Earth Day on April 25 with two events:
