Dear Valued Lanoha Customer,


     Beautiful sunny days and crisp nights ensure that autumn, in all its seasonal glory, has arrived. "Nature saves the biggest show for late autumn. In the stillness of the glittery fall sunlight the trees and shrubs gleam. The soil remains warm and conducive for excellent root development well  

into November and even December. A tree planted now will be ready to amaze you in the spring of 2015! Your might say that October is the very best month of the year to install landscape plants. It is nature's planting time...make it yours!

     Many viburnum, ash, maple, locust, and ornamental crabs have put on an early show.  

The unusual moist late summer months have the plants primed with sugars that are ready to explode into fall hues.   


     [  Our inventory of northern hardy seed source specimen trees from our local growing fields  

        are absolutely outstanding for Autumn planting this season  ]  

     With cool nights and warm days, we eagerly await an extended and spectacular fall.
Our inventory of northern hardy seed source specimen trees from our local growing fields are absolutely outstanding for autumn planting. Lanoha's experienced garden center staff will assist you in your selection of the right trees for the right spots. If you are not sure what tree or shrub will be best for a given site, just bring in a few pictures and measurements of the site and allow our staff to find the right one for you.  

     Do not delay adding value to your property. A quality tree, properly placed, and professionally installed can return 100-200% of its purchase price to the value of your home.

Go Big Red...and Gold, Purple and Orange 

Mums & Asters in multiple sizes.   



      Wild violets, white clover, ground ivy, also known as Creeping Charlie are three invasive turf weeds that often invade thin turf or areas of the lawn that are weakened by either disease, insect, soil compaction, or moisture stress (either dry or too wet).  

The worst of this trio is ground ivy. The scalloped leaves are heart shaped and attached by long petioles to square stems. It roots wherever touching soil and sheds  

a tremendous amount of seed, making it one of the most difficult invasive weeds in
the Metro area. In the spring it blooms with rather attractive purple flowers which some homeowners mistake for a desirable ground cover. Wild violets, too, have nice little nodding blooms that fast becomes very invasive. It is hard to kill violets with most broadleaf herbicides, but it meets its match with Ferti.lome's Weed Free Zone! Clover loves to creep into turf that is deprived of nutrients, especially nitrogen.   

    [  Whatever the reason for the weeds in the turf, you will be amazed with
       this product's results.


     If 40% or more of an area is bare ground use Lanoha's Starter Fertilizer immediately after seeding. If you are seeding into fairly dense turf, use your favorite slowrelease standard lawn food--a slow release fertilizer will not burn the new germinating grass seed. If a broadleaf or grassy weed control was used late this summer, delay seeding for 3 weeks from the last spray date as the herbicide will affect the germination of the seed. All areas seeded this September should have Ferti-lome's Winterizer Fertilizer applied in late October to ensure winter survival of the new grass plants. It is embellished with iron, boron, sulfur, zinc, and other valuable trace elements missing in lower quality products.




  1. Over watering is the most common killer of trees. It is important to point out that clay soil does not drain well and has a high capacity for retaining moisture. Plant roots require oxygen, which is unable to exist in soils that are always damp. Without adequate oxygen, the roots cannot function efficiently and will rot if the soil stays to damp. Do not put tree watering on a schedule----water only when the soil in the root ball has dried sufficiently so the added water displaces the air in the soil. Tiny air bubbles should be visible coming from the soil. The first 3-5 years after planting a tree is most vulnerable to water stress. It is rare that a tree stresses from under-watering in a suburban landscape.
  2. Grade changes of even a few inches of soil over an existing tree's root zone can begin
    a very gradual but steady decline in the overall health of the tree. Almost all of a tree's feeder roots are in the top 8-12" of soil. The damage isn't noticed until the tree is so stressed that it will not survive. The same damage can occur if soil is added or removed
    in a depth of more than 2-3". Visual symptoms of decline include smaller leaves, fewer leaves, earlier fall color, excessive seed or cone development, or unusually heavy flowering. Such symptoms indicate a tree is in serious stress.
  3. Herbicides used for turf weed control can kill trees. The entire root zone of any tree should be avoided if using a granulated weed and feed fertilizer. Liquid herbicides can drift for over a mile and damage a tree especially if the temps are above 85 degrees and even
    a light wind exists.
  4. Improper pruning where stubs are left next to the trunk are invitations to insects and disease. When removing a limb, cut just outside the bark "collar" at the base of the limb. This collar will heal over nicely and the tree will not be damaged. Birch, soft maples, red maples, and nut trees are always pruned ONLY when the tree is in "full leaf."
  5. Injury by lawn mowers and weed trimmers can be avoided if the turf is kept cut back a minimum of 18" from the tree's trunk. Remember, keep mulch back at least 4-6" from
    the trunk of any age tree. The mulch should never be deeper than 2-4"on any age tree!





     One of the most cosmetically altering damage as well as decline of so many trees have several contributing factors. Our FREE handout on Frost Cracks/Sun Scald stresses how important wrapping thin barked trees (ex.) Ornamental flowering crabapple tree, ash, beech, tulip trees, all fruit trees, and almost all varieties of maples (Norway, sugar, red sunset, and even the very popular autumn blaze) will crack.  



             [   Wrap trees about Halloween and remove the wrap the following April 15   ]   



     One of the most common reasons for cracks and splits on tree trunks is cold temperatures. This certainly would explain some of the damage seen on trees after last winter's polar blasts.  

     A frost crack occurs when the inner and outer wood in the tree's trunk expands and contracts at different rates when temperatures change quickly in the winter. This happens when winter temperatures plummet well below zero very quickly after a sunny warm up into the high sixty or seventy plus temperature spike. 

     Frost cracks often do not seriously hurt trees although they provide openings where certain disease organisms or insects may enter this stressed bark. A frost crack can develop on any 

side of a tree, but the south or west are the most common.  

     Think about the sharp angle of the sun that hits a vulnerable tree's trunk that is located in an open area of a newer subdivision.    

     Recent research from Wisconsin and Michigan have shed new light on this damaging condition. Their research questions the fact of the cold and fluctuating temperatures---if it were only temperature swings then every shallow barked tree would develop frost cracks.    

     We know that does not happen! Their research brings up several of the above 5 mistakes made with our valuable shade trees. Their research found moisture stress as one of the biggest contributor. This results when trees are irrigated with too much water and that water is applied way too frequently. "Remember a lawn can be repaired or even replaced in one short season---it takes decades to establish a valuable deciduous or evergreen tree!"

     Adding extra mulch or soil around a tree so "summer annual color, perennials, and even shrubs can be planted around and under a new tree will also stress the tree." The grade change causes roots to begin declining. They suffocate!! Keep all mulch 4-6" back from the bark of the tree. No mulch volcanos around any tree, please. Mulch of 2" deep and at least 18-24" out from the trunk will keep a happy tree. Research has shown that a frost crack/sun scald has its beginning in an injury caused when bark loosens from the trunk because it was kept under mulch and could not breathe.    


         [   Both sun scald and frost cracking can and does cause hundreds of trees to
             decline every year in the metro area. Stop in and visit us on how to prevent this  
             damaging condition






     Every year a few homeowners call or come in with this question. "Why isn't my tree the color I thought it would be or the color it was last year?"

     Many changes occur in the leaves of deciduous trees before they color and fall from the branch. The leaf has actually been preparing for autumn since it started to grow in the spring. At the base of each leaf is a special layer of cells called the "abscission" or separation layer. All summer, small tubes which pass through this layer, carry water into the leaf, and food back to the tree. In the fall, the cells of the abscission layer begin to swell and form a cork-like material, reducing, and finally cutting off flow between leaf and tree. Glucose and waste products are trapped in the leaf. Without fresh water to renew it, the chlorophyll begins to disappear. The abscission layer allows the leaf to break away cleanly from its branch without forming an opening from which sap could leak and 

through which disease organisms could enter the tree.



     The amount and brilliance of the colors that develop in any particular autumn season are related to weather conditions that occur before and during the time the chlorophyll is dwindling. Temperature and moisture are the main influences.

     Succession of warm, sunny days and cool, crisp, but not freezing nights, seems to bring about the most spectacular color displays. During these days, lots of sugars are produced in the leaf, but the cool nights and gradual closing of veins going into the leaf prevent these sugars from moving out. These conditions-lots of sugar and a lot of sunlight-spur production of the brilliant anthocyanin pigments, which tint reds, purples, and  

crimson foliage.                        

     Carotenoids (yellow pigments) are always present in leaves. This make trees that change to shades of yellow or gold quite consistent from year to year. Tannins, like carotenoids, are always present, but the brown hues of some oaks and other trees develop these coppery hues after both the chlorophyll and the carotenoids disappear from the leaves allowing the brown tannins to become visible.

     The amount of moisture in the soil also affect autumn colors. Soils are often kept overly moist by frequent irrigation. Once a tree is established, (3-5 years), it prefers very infrequent additional moisture other than natural rainfall. That is quite different from a tree in a landscape where sprinkler may run every other day. The countless combinations of these two highly variable factors assure that no two autumn can be exactly alike. A late spring, or a severe summer drought, can delay the onset of fall color by several weeks. A warm period during fall will also lower the intensity of autumn colors. A warm wet spring, favorable summer weather, and warm sunny fall days with cool night should produce the most brilliant autumn colors. Nebraska autumn color is not predictable, but October is nature's last fling before settling down into winter's sleep. Some years, the colors are truly breathtaking. It's worth the wait!!!  



     Many misconceptions and myths exist about tree roots-the unseen and often under- appreciated portion of a tree. A number of the more common myths are: (1) Tree roots are really tough and woody. The reality is that structural roots located near the trunk are responsible for helping to support the tree and are typically very strong. The majority of the root bio-mass is made up of very small diameter and fleshy roots. These fine roots, often referred to as "feeder roots" provide structural support for the tree and are responsible for the majority of water and nutrient uptake. This fine root system typically lives for only one season with most tree species. Annual turnover of these roots is largely due to poor soil growing conditions such as drought, very cold winter temperatures, over-watering, and over fertilization with high nitrogen fertilizers. These roots are also killed by soil compaction caused by excessive foot traffic or machinery. (2) Tree roots exist only under the tree's canopy. Healthy tree have very extensive root systems sometimes as much as two or three times the distance beyond the tree's canopy. This is why a tree can be easily damaged by
a neighbor's gardening habits as the roots may well extend beyond your property line. Keep this in mind when watering or fertilizing large established trees. (3) Trees roots grow deep into the soil. The facts are that over 50% of a tree's roots are in the top 6-8" of the soil profile, and the majority of a tree's roots are found in the top 18" of soil. Tree roots require oxygen for survival. Compacted clay soil that is over-watered leaves little pore space in the soil for oxygen and roots slowly suffocate and die.





     With cooler temperatures and coloring and falling leaves, now is the time to give serious thought to the fall fertilization needs  

of your tree and shrubs. The leaves may be  

in color or completely dropped, but the  

plant will benefit greatly from a mid to late October application of fertilizer.


     Vigorous spring foliage growth depends almost entirely upon nitrogen that was absorbed the plant's roots prior to the ground freezing. Nitrogen must be in the root zone for 4 weeks before it influences growth; therefore, an application of Ferti-lome's Tree & Shrub Food fits the bill perfectly.


     Plants are deficient in nutrients are more susceptible to winter injury  

and stress. Many homeowners fertilize trees and shrubs in the spring. Unfortunately the spring applied fertilizer does not get to the root system  

in time to help the plants bounce back after a severe winter.


      The Garden Center has two excellent granulated fertilizers for trees and shrubs: Milorganite, an organic food rich in calcium and iron and Ferti-lome's Tree & Shrub Food that offers slow release nitrogen with micronutrients of boron, copper, manganese, and zinc. These nutrients help build strong cell walls in leaves and ensure sturdy stems. Both products are best applied with the aid of a soil auger attached to a shop drill. The dry granules should be dropped into the holes drill 18" apart and 8-10" deep in the root zone of the plant. Stop in today  

and visit with our experienced staff on the method best suited to your landscape needs.


     [  It is NOT TOO LATE to plant trees or shrubs.   

        They are able to establish good roots before the winter cold arrives!  ]


The Best Gift For Any Gardener's Hands... 

Hestra Goatskin Gardening Gloves   



Lotions are good, creams may be better, but the best gift to any gardener's hands is a pair of premium goatskin gloves!!! Wearing  

goatskin gloves is like having a great hand massage.


I have dug in the soils of Nebraska for over 65 years and my choice of gardening gloves has always gravitated back to the best glove for my intense contact with the soils in my landscape--goatskin.


  You can pick up things as easy as if you didn't  

     have on gloves.  ]


      The thumb is the first part of most gloves to wear
      a hole. The Garden Center has available Hestra
      goatskin gloves featuring reinforced thumbs, fingers, and are
      complimented with a breathable spandex fabric backhand.  



      [  Hestra gloves come in a range of colors and sizes for men and women.  

         All will help you enjoy your garden job better.  ]    



     This fall with the need to do rose pruning or perhaps barberry shrub pruning, a pair of Hestra Garden Rose gloves would be a nice early "Christmas present" to yourself. The durable goatskin glove has a long cow split leather cuff for added protection when working with plants with thorns or stickers. Stop in today and treat your hands to a real treat---a new pair.  




Homeowners & Lawn Service Companies
welcomed during regular business hours

Lanoha Nurseries has prided itself for decades as a leader in the ''greening'' of the metro area. We believe offering the free drop off to be more environmentally acceptable than to have this 

material end up in the bottom of a landfill.


Items that will be accepted at the Garden Center are:
Shrub clippings, sawdust, straw, hay, grass clippings, pumpkins, corn stalks, wood chips, leaves, brush, sod, dirt, garden waste  

and Christmas trees.


Items that will NOT be accepted at the Garden Center

We ask that the small branches be between 4-6' long-no logs, please. No railroad ties or treated lumber. No waste left in plastic bags. No rubber or plastic bags or containers. If you bring your yard waste in plastic bags, we ask that you empty them into the container and take the plastic bags with you. Filled paper bags can be dropped off without emptying.


Annual Christmas
Open House
November 14  
Garden Center 





1. If the inside needles on your white or Vanderwolf pine tree suddenly yellow and drop to the ground-don't think it needs more water! These pines often retain their needles for only two years. This is the normal defoliation that occurs each fall. That's why pine forests are carpeted with a thick mat of old needles.


2. Top quality Holland bulbs are now available. While the "early bird" gets the pick of the crop, delay planting until a killing freeze-usually mid to late October. A full selection of early, mid-season, and late blooming tulips are complimented with a good choice of hyacinths, daffodils, and minor bulbs.


3. When you are fall planting, remember to amend soil with perlite and co  mpost. Dig the hole twice as wide, but no deeper than the root mass. Myke for Trees and Shrubs placed in the bottom of the hole will encourage root develop  ment well into December.   


4. It is important to watch your watering going into late fall. Your turf needs
only 1" of rainfall or irrigation each week. Trees may endure a season of over-watering, but damage will occur!


5. Late October is the time to winterize your lawn. To ensure a lush green color and a dense canopy in the spring, apply a special winter fertilizer between late October and late November. Roots grow on most turf until the ground freezes hard in December.


6. October brings excellent fall pricing. KEEP PLANTING! Don't be concerned if frost has caused leaves to drop from trees and shrubs you recently purchased. The plant's roots are still active and will establish into the prepared planting site.



Connect With Us
- Like us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter


 Like us on Facebook   Find us on Pinterest Follow us on Twitter