Dear Valued Lanoha Customer,

Summer weather has arrived here in the heartland with a much later than usual storm season remaining as a threat to homeowners with wind, hail, and rain damage to areas in the metro and certainly to the surrounding towns in the eastern half of the state. Our soils have been replenished with ample moisture that will help many of the winter damaged plants recover more completely than we might have thought earlier in the season. Homeowners are continuing to replant at a brisk rate resulting in a much "greener" landscape for the entire metro area. It is so encouraging to see the resilience of the Nebraska gardener.   Most of us will welcome warmer temperatures that will strengthen our plantings. July's warm temperatures should allow us to stand back and watch the color explosion take place in our landscapes.

This is the month where vacations are being planned and implemented. If you plan to "staycation", our inventory of homegrown annuals, perennials, shrubs, and trees is outstanding. You will find the perfect plants for all your landscaping needs.  Our inventory of bulk soils, mulches, rocks, and outdoor décor will make that vacation spent in your own back yard one to remember. Remember we offer delivery of items too bulky or large for your vehicle. Superthrive, a very concentrated vitamin/hormone  should be used after any summer plantings. It stimulates new feeder roots and reduces transplant shock for a plant that quickly blends into the existing landscape. Remember, it is not a fertilizer so several applications about 2 weeks apart is recommended. Summer winds can be searing, and tender foliage may look stressed or tattered after a windy hot July day. Consider using an anti-desiccant spray on the foliage or needles of any newly installed plant. This polymer spray gives the tissue resistance to the wind and sun without interfering with its breathing. Wilt-Stop is available in concentrate or RTU sprayer bottles.

After a cool and wet spring, we should expect a bumper crop of damaging spider mites on a myriad of plants. Spider mites are tiny-barely the size of the period at the end of this sentence. They are very prolific, which is why infestation often goes unnoticed until plants exhibit significant damage. Spider mites can complete their development from egg to damaging adult in less than one week, so there will be many overlapping generations in a single season. Because of this, repeat applications of insecticide will be required to cover the generations that overlap. Thorough spray coverage is essential when applying miticides. Pay particular attention to getting spray into the interior of the plants and attempt to cover all the foliage.

Spider mites have tiny mouthparts modified for piercing individual plant cells and removing the contents. This results in tiny yellow or white speckles on leaves. When many of these feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage of a plant becomes bronzed, it often drops prematurely. A plant that takes on a "dusty" or "dirty" look may have a high population of insects feeding on it. Spider mites become dehydrated during hot weather forcing them to feed more aggressively. The list of plants affected by mites is huge, but a few of the most targeted plants are: spruce, junipers, burning bush, roses, honey-locust trees, arborvitae, and a myriad of vegetables: tomatoes, green beans, and cucumber and melon vines. For some unknown reason, spider mites are attracted to all palm trees, verbena flowers, hibiscus, and many dracaena houseplants.

To detect mites, hold a piece of white paper under the foliage and firmly tap the foliage.  The mites are very tiny, but can be seen moving on the paper. Another test is to gently wipe your hand over the sample paper resulting in a tell-tale "red" smudge on the paper.  Check the label of insecticide to be certain it is registered for use on the plant in question. We offer a FREE guide on spider mites at the Information Desk in the garden center. We carry an extensive inventory of controls including: Malathion, Permethrin, Neem Oil, and Acephate. Samples are always welcome at the Information Desk.

There is no doubt that clematis are the most popular garden vine. We carry a huge inventory of this impressive perennial vine. When planting in heavy clay soils, we suggest you prepare a planting hole that has been dug 12" deep and at least 12" across. The heavy clay should be amended with perlite and compost. Set the young plants deep so the first two sets of leaf nodes on the vine are under the soil.  This encourages plants to send up more stems so you'll have a thick vine not just a single stem coming from the soil line. If you do not amend the soil, the plant would die quickly being planted this deep. Ask for the guide on planting clematis at the Information Desk for success!

This season a fair number of gardeners have brought in samples of clematis wilt. Very suddenly a plant goes from robust and blooming-- to limp and brown leaves and darkened almost black stems. This wilt is caused by a fungus that enters the stems just above the soil line. There is no cure other than to cut the entire stem to the ground and dispose of it. If there are still healthy stems left in the root mass, Ferti,lome's Systemic Fungicide can be drenched into the soil to help protect healthy stems. If the diseased stems are removed immediately and the fungicide drenched into the soil, it is possible to save the remaining portion of the vine. Often this hits plants where no soil amending was done prior to installation.  

On hot summer days, air conditioners consume 43% of the U.S. peak power load. AS FEW AS THREE MATURING SHADE TREES, PROPERLY PLACED AROUND A HOME, CAN SAVE AN AVERAGE HOUSEHOLD UP TO 40% OFF THEIR COOLING COSTS. One longtime Lanoha employee states that their cooling costs have dropped over 50% in the last five years as their maturing White Swamp Oak tree shields the west facing windows on their two-story home. What an amazing feeling-to touch the glass and find it cool to the touch on even the sunniest summer day!

What a great investment quality trees can be! To be most effective, trees should be strategically located on the south and west sides of your home. Deciduous trees are best, because they shade in summer and allow light and radiant heat to pass through in the winter. Shrubs protect the lower portions of walls from heat gain by blocking sunlight, while vines provide shading and cooling, and are quick to grow.

If the cooling properties were not enough to convince you, a 20 year old shade tree can intercept as much as 1,200 gallons of runoff rainfall a year, which may explain why mature trees resent being irrigated with frequent heavy turf irrigation. Do your part to contribute to the "Greening" of the metro area with your tree plantings this year. After all, doesn't planting more trees make more sense than building power plants or even expanding waste water structures? 

Summer picnics in city parks, swimming parties around community lakes, or pleasant and nostalgic childhood experiences often revolve around a common tree-the graceful Niobe Golden Weeping Willow (Salixalba 'Tristis'). Decades before I ever knew that I would be involved in horticulture, a giant weeping willow in our back yard with its long, graceful, supple stems served as stage curtains for some of the finest original productions featuring family pets, dolls, and kids enjoying this tree's  canopy that provided  a cool summer hideout  long before we ever heard of an air conditioned home or video games to occupy the long hot days of summer in Nebraska.

This is a "tough" tree that can handle the extremes of the Midwest landscape. While it can reach 40' tall with an equal spread, it still has its place in many backyard plantings. Almost every customer who buys a weeping willow does so because of fond memories of this tree. A good reason to plant any tree is the personal bond we associate with that tree.

The lustrous rich green, 3-4" long slender summer leaves turn shimmering yellow in the fall.  Interestingly, it is one of the first trees to leaf out and one of the last to shed its leaves. The tree prefers to grow in full sun, but can handle some shade. It is the perfect tree for a "wet" area of your landscape.  The furrowed brown bark and gold branches are extremely showy and add significant winter interest.  With regular maintenance and pruning, the tree can easily live for 50 years. Our inventory ranges from husky potted willows to larger specimen grown in our local fields.

Another interesting willow tree available for immediate planting is the Corkscrew or Hankow Willow (Salix matsudana). It has earned its common name of "corkscrew" thanks to its unique branching habit. As the tree grows, its branches reach out horizontally and then twist this way and that, creating curls or corkscrews. This gives the corkscrew willow 'four season' interest in the home garden. In the spring it has lovely buds. In the summer, its graceful leaves and fast growing habit provide shade. During the fall, the leaves turn a bright, almost pure yellow color before dropping to the ground. Winter allows the corkscrew willow's wonderful branches and intricate shapes to be seen against a backdrop of bright blue winter sky or white snow cover.

Corkscrew Willows are fast growing and reach a height of about 25-30' tall. They mature to a rounded ball. Like other willows, they prefer moist soil. They can grow in sun to partly shady areas. They grow in almost any soil. One of the most attractive feature of this small ornamental is its twisted branches that are used extensively as anchors for patio pots for all seasons. With a can of aerosol paint you can have white, red, blue, or even black curly willow stems for pots and arrangements. Your friends will love helping you keep the tree trimmed for these great curly branches. If you are looking for a one-of-a-kind tree that's sure to draw attention with its year-round interest, Corkscrew Willow is the tree for you!  

Our Inventory includes clump B&B trees as well as container grown little gems.

Though often overlooked by gardeners, planting vegetables in July and August for fall production is an excellent practice. Grocery store prices have escalated all summer on fresh vegetables because of the continued drought in California. This is the perfect time to begin a fall vegetable garden. Most cool-season vegetables grow as well as or better than those planted in the spring because they mature during shorter, cooler days. Broccoli, cauliflower, and kale are great fall crops. Snap beans, cucumbers, and summer squash planted in late summer will provide vigorous plants that can be harvested up to or, with protection, beyond the first frost. In Nebraska, the first frost is often followed by a few weeks of good growing weather, providing an even longer harvest if plants are protected.

The following are considered semi-hardy vegetables (can stand light frost, 30-32 degrees F): beets, Chinese cabbage, collards, potatoes, bibb lettuce, leaf lettuce, radishes, spinach, and Swiss chard.

The following are hardy vegetables (can stand several frosts but are killed when temperatures drop near 20 degree F):  cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, turnips, rutabagas, and kale.

To determine when to plant a particular vegetable for the latest harvest, you need to know the average date of the first killing frost in your area. In recent years, the average killing frost is September 25th. There is always a 10% chance it could be earlier or later. Remember, this is weather and not science! To estimate when to plant fall crops, use the following formula: (1.) Number of days from seeding to harvest as indicated on seed package (2.) Add Fall Factor (about 14 days). This takes into account the slower growth that results from cooler weather and shorter days. (3.) Frost Tender Factor (14days). This 14 day period is added only for frost-sensitive crops such as beans, cucumbers, or summer squash.  These plants must mature at least two weeks before frost in order to produce a reasonable harvest.

Add some fresh compost to cover the planting area to enhance the soil's water-holding capacity. It may be helpful to add a granulated garden fertilizer using 1-2 pounds per 100 square foot of bed. Plant seeds in shallow trenches to conserve moisture. Light irrigation up to twice a day during extremely hot weather will keep the soil moist and prevent seed death. You may need to shade the soil when planting lettuce, peas, and spinach if the soil temperature is above 85 degrees F.

Stop in soon and let our staff assist you with your selection so you will be ready this month and into early August to get your "second" garden off to a success! It's a great way to get two harvests from the same garden spot. We have a great selection of seeds for this second planting season!

Japanese beetles have established some firm populations in the metro area. There are pockets of the metro area that have yet to become targeted by this hungry and aggressive beetle. It is just a matter of time before they cover the entire metro area. It is not uncommon for an adult Japanese beetle to fly up to 5 miles in a single day. Just to recap, this adult beetle is a brilliant metallic green, generally oval in outline about ½" long and ¼" wide. The wing covers are a coppery color and the abdomen has a row of five tufts of white hairs on each side. They are distinct in appearance. Generally the early hatches begin in mid- July, but with last winter's extreme cold and the wet cool spring, hatching or emerging from the soils could begin somewhat later. 

These early arrivals begin to release an aggregation pheromone (odor) that attracts additional adults.  Don't delay treating, huge populations may develop rapidly.  Japanese beetles are most active during mid-day and rarely active in early morning or late evening. It does not move at all at night. The adult beetles eat the leaves and flowers of over 300 plants by chewing the tissue between the veins, a type of feeding called skeletonizing. The adult female lays 8-10 batches of eggs over a several month period.  The larvae that hatch from the eggs are called white grubs-very similar to the larvae that hatch from the Masked Chafer (June Bug) that we have had to deal with in our turf for decades. The damage from the Japanese beetle larvae to turf may not appear until late September to October. Imidacloprid granules will give fairly adequate control if it is applied in July before the eggs hatch.       

Japanese beetles feed on a large range of hosts, including leaves of plants of the following common crops: beans, tomatoes, peppers, roses, sweet corn, birch trees, crab apple trees, day lilies, all willows, lilacs, linden trees, viburnum, weigelia, and oaks are but a few of their favorite food sources. As was stated earlier over 300 plants are targeted by Japanese beetles. Heavy infestations can and will influence the feeding habits. If you have them in your landscape, please check all plants on a regular basis.  Natural repellents include catnip, chives, garlic, and tansy.

Chemical control includes, carbaryl, permethrin, neem oil, and acephate. Application of imidacloprid (Ferti.lome's Tree and Shrub Insect Drench) will give adequate control for trees and shrubs, but it needs to be applied a minimum of 30 days before the adult beetle becomes active in July. Mark on your calendar this application in late April for next year control. It got good reviews from homeowners who got it on in time last year-especially on linden, birch, and crab apple trees. During periods of heavy adult activity, liquid sprays may need to be applied every 5-10 days. This is an insect that is simply never going to "go away" so the more prepared you and your neighbors are, the better the results will be. If you choose to use the beetle traps, keep in mind that their intended use is to detect that the beetles have hatched and you should begin chemical control measures. They are not intended to be left out to catch all the beetles in your landscape. They will attract beetles by the hundreds making your yard a magnet for beetles from the entire neighborhood!

• Ash rust has been reported on several ash cultivars. This is a fungus that has not been seen during the past 5 years, but conditions were just right for it to develop again this season. Small orange raised spots appear on the underside of the leaf. It is primarily a cosmetic disease and will not damage the tree. Prevention would include several applications of a broad-spectrum fungicide in early spring when buds swell and very tiny leaves are present. It is of no benefit to apply fungicides after the fungus has developed.
• Keep petunias, geraniums, and nicotiana sprayed with Bonide"s Systemic Insecticide containing acephate. This is one of the most effective controls for a tiny thread-like insect called budworm that causes flowering to cease as the buds are damaged by this very tiny worm. Most insecticides have no effect on this little monster!
• Divide existing bearded iris plantings in the latter days of July.  Remove the entire clump and discard old segments of the rhizomes that may have fungus rot caused by borer insect damage.  Separate into sections having 2-3 sturdy fans. Cut the tops back to 3-4 inches above the rhizome. Soak the rhizomes in 1-10 part solution of bleach, and allow them to dry before replanting. Plant so the top 1/3 of the rhizome is above the soil line. Please pick up a planting and care guide on bearded iris available at the Information Desk. 
• Monitor spruce, junipers, arborvitae, and other plantings for small bags attached to a branch that may be mistaken for a pine cone. Inside this bag is a very aggressive insect called a bagworm that can quickly cause serious needle damage.  A FREE guide on bagworm control is available.
• Keeping a green lawn during the hot and humid summer days ahead can be a challenge.  It is not recommended to use high nitrogen fertilizers on bluegrass, rye, or fescue lawns in the heat of the summer. IRON RICH is an organically based dehydrated poultry waste product that is a very mild (3-2-1) fertilizer rich in sulfur (5%). The 10% iron content will amaze you with the speed at which it greens the turf without excessive top growth that could stress the lawn. Be sure to immediately sweep or blow off any granules that come into contact with the concrete. This will eliminate the possibility of staining the driveway or sidewalks with the iron. Do not wash off until all the granules have been removed.
• Mowing turf at a height of 3-3 1/2" during July and August will reduce stress on the crown of the grass plant. Lawns need 1 ½" of moisture per week, and if it does rain, make sure to factor natural rainfall into the total. Irrigate no more than 3 times weekly to encourage deep roots.
• Imperfect foliage can be the result of insect or disease, but it can also be environmentally caused. Wind, heavy rain, hail, heat, and humidity can often mimic insects and disease. Bring samples to the Information Desk and we will assist you.