Dear Valued Lanoha Customer,


What a month of extreme weather the metro area has just experienced. Many of our customers have had the assault of at least two major wind events as well as hail and heavy downpours. While the moisture was just what so many of the winter stressed plants needed to help them recover, the beneficial moisture was accompanied with strong straight wind storms that caused considerable tree damage. 


By now, it is much easier to determine what plants were damaged so severely by the winter that the best choice is to remove the plant and replace it. Frustrated homeowners sometimes say "I won't plant that again!" I always try to caution people making such statements to consider how much the plant may have given in beauty and enjoyment for the past 10-20 years!  What couch, refrigerator, or even car can you get more durability from than what the landscape plants benefited the value and aesthetic impact to your home.  It may be decades before we ever have the combination of cold, wind, and drought that our plants were exposed to the past winter. I plan on replanting yews I have enjoyed in my front landscape for the past 45 years.  I am a determined gardener, and I will re-plant and re-evaluate my landscape in spite of what Mother Nature throws my way! It is so encouraging to see homeowners-"young and young-at- heart" -replanting trees, shrubs, and perennials to restore the former beauty of their landscapes.


The landscape and the gardener alike are ready to enjoy a tranquil month of June.  James Russell Lowell in 1840 penned these famous words, "And what is so rare as a day in June? Then, if ever, come perfect days? .....With the sun shining, the breezes barely blowing, and green covering our entire vista, we garden in earnest this month of June."


Memorial Day once was considered the "cut-off" for planting nursery stock until fall. NO LONGER is that ever considered! Container grown trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, groundcovers, and annuals make June the "BEGINNING" of the summer planting season. The plants adapt quickly with the proper site preparation-using perlite, cotton burr compost, and a fantastic product called "MYKE."  MYKE products are available for trees and shrubs, perennials and annuals, and vegetables. MYKE is short for mycorrhizae that has been around in forest soils for hundreds of millions of years. Micorrhizae fungus helped the plants in these ancient forests thrive and flourish under extreme conditions for centuries.  When cities displaced the forests, physical activity and compaction from man-kind killed the mycorrhizae in the soil. Today suburban gardeners are left with horrible growing conditions for landscape plants. Mycorrhizal fungi (Latin) mycor-"fungus" and rhiza-"root" are naturally occurring beneficial soil organisms mined in remote uninhabited areas. The mycorrhizae create filaments, or threads, on roots.  They are basically extensions of the root system, enlarging the surface-absorbing area of the roots by 100 to 1,000 times. If you increase the surface area of the roots, they'll be able to take up more nutrients and water.  In exchange the fungus receives essential sugars and compounds from the roots to fuel its own growth. This symbiotic relationship is one of the longest and most successful in nature. Plants that have MYKE applied under the root ball at planting show enhanced growth and flowering, establish and cover faster, resist disease better, and of course have a better chance of survival. Organic or low phosphorous content fertilizers are excellent companions. You can't harm a plant with too much MYKE. On trees, shrubs, roses, and perennials where the soil is not disturbed once the plant is installed, one application is all that is required. If you have planted and did not use MYKE, you can auger holes into the ground in the root area and introduce the beneficial fungi into the soil. It is necessary to get the product in contact with the roots to be effective. I simply do not entertain digging a hole for any plant without having the proper MYKE product ready to ensure success. MYKE will make you the "green thumb" envy of your neighborhood!!! 



   One of the most frustrating weeds is Yellow Nutsedge!


Broadleaf as well as grassy weeds have gotten an aggressive foothold in the turf with the moist cool spring. One of the more frustrating weeds is YELLOW NUTSEDGE. This light green shiny bladed grass-like perennial is often mistaken as a grass when it invades the lawn in June. Its extensive semi-dormant root system makes permanent removal from a lawn difficult. Halosulfuron-methyl (Hi-Yield Nutsedge Killer) will effectively control nutsedge that has emerged from the "bulb-like" underground root system.  Pulling is very unproductive and may stimulate the tubers to multiply.  Two or more applications prior to the end of June are needed to control. Adding a spreader sticker to the herbicide will help the herbicide adhere to the slick blades of the sedge. The nutsedge will start to yellow in 4-7 days, and will usually die within 14 days. It is safe to use near well-established ornamental plants, shrubs, and trees. It should not be applied to any bedding plant or garden vegetable plantings. We also are offering a RTU bottle of Nutsedge Killer from Ortho that will make it easy to apply where only a very small amount of nutsedge exists.

Broadleaf weeds including field bindweed, spurge, ground ivy, wild violets, clover, knotweed, dandelion, and 33 other broadleaf weeds are safely controlled with Ferti.lome's  Weed Free Zone as long as day temperatures are 90 degrees or under. In 3 hours it is rainproof! It is superior to any other broadleaf weed control on the market. It is available as an economical concentrate, a RTU spray bottle or as a ready to use hose attachment concentrate. This is one product you must try to be "sold" for life.



  Left untreated a tree will die within a few years!


Maples, birch, and oak are a few of the shade trees that may exhibit yellowish leaves while the veins remain normal dark green. These trees are often growing in over-irrigated, heavy clay soils that are very compacted and lacking air for healthy root development. This along with other stress factors such as winter damage may compromise the plant's over-all vigor. No matter what the cause, the yellowing of the foliage is referred to as chlorosis that ultimately results in a tree that is not manufacturing enough chlorophyll. Left untreated, a tree will die within a few years.

 In most native Nebraska soils, iron is readily available to trees growing in soil with a pH of 5-6.5, but most urban soils are in the 7-9 pH range  that "ties" the available iron into a form that is not able to be used by the tree's roots. Leaves on trees growing in such soils may emerge in early spring and appear to be normal size and color. Leaves emerging later in the year are often smaller and lack good dark green color. If a tree is left unattended for several seasons, twig dieback may be observed toward the top of the tree and ends of the branches. This is especially evident with River Birch.


On trees with trunks from 3-9" diameter, a granulated soil applied treatment called Total Tree Nutrition is receiving very positive results. The three workhorse components are( 1) elemental sulfur which aids in lowering the soil pH, (2) micronutrients including iron, manganese, and zinc, and (3) Osmocote, a time released tree fertilizer. Complete instructions are available at the garden center for this homeowner friendly product. Reports indicate this product delivers residual results for 5 years or more. Another granulated product that appears to perform well---especially on birch tree chlorosis is a sulfur and iron mixture from Hi.Yield called Copperas. It is best augured into the soil about 8-10" deep and spaced around the tree's root zone area ever 18 inches. This is an excellent maintenance product even for trees that have never displayed any visible chlorotic symptoms.


On large trees, 10" plus diameter, the root zone area is often in inaccessible areas that make it necessary to inject the iron directly into the tree's trunk. Green Tree Pro is liquid iron enriched with phosphorus and potash that will encourage the development of feeder roots, thus increasing the production of chlorophyll for better long term results. For best results, apply before the end of July.  Changes may occur as soon as two weeks after the injections are made. A sharp " drill bit on a small shop drill are the only tools required.  Because the small holes are drilled at a 45 degree downward angel, minimal trunk injury occurs.  It is safe to use these injections on trees with trunks as small as 4" in circumference.  While it is usually used to treat chlorosis, it will produce excellent results on trees that do not flower properly or have poor overall growth.



  Do not build a planter with added dirt around your tree!


It is tempting to look at an established tree that may have started to show surface roots or on a newly installed tree and think:  "Why not build a little planter around the tree, fill it with soil, and plant colorful annuals, perennials, or even small shrubs around this tree???"


Unfortunately, every year hundreds of homeowners do just that! What they fail to consider is this critical fact:  Regardless of the tree's trunk size, age of the tree, or kind of tree, the roots that are supplying water, nutrients, and air to the tree are all located in the top 8-12" of the existing soil grade.  The roots of an established (8-10 years or older) tree also extend well beyond the drip line of the tree's branches.  A tree with a 10" diameter trunk could easily have feeder roots that extend 8-10 feet beyond the widest reaching branches!


If more than 4" of additional soil is added anywhere from the trunk outward to well beyond the drip line, there is 100% certainty that the tree will begin showing damage within 5 years. Putting 6-12" of additional soil will begin an almost immediate suffocation process of the fine hair roots that support the life of the tree, and that tree will certainly be dead in a relatively short time. The damage may not be noticed for several years, but there is no way of saving the tree. Within 5 years, the tree will begin its gradual decline (leafing out later, producing a light canopy of small leaves, coloring and dropping of leaves much earlier than normal). Shortly after, a snowball effect takes place. Branches may set buds but never open into leaf, limbs may have to be removed from the canopy of the tree, insects such as borers may attack the weakened tree, and the tree will lose vigor to resist wind damage. It would be expected that even a large mature tree would be dead in less than 10 years!


Considering the financial and esthetic loss of a large tree, building up soil over a tree's roots is a poor solution for nuisance roots that may make mowing a bit difficult or that compete with the turf under the tree's canopy.  How should you deal with surface roots and still maintain a healthy tree?  The ideal solution is a light 2" layer of wood much extended several feed wide around the tree's trunk.  A vital point to remember:  Do not pile mulch right next to the tree's trunk-keep the mulch at least 4" away from the trunk regardless of the tree's age.  Similar damage can occur if more than 3-6" of soil is removed from the root zone of a tree. 


  A stunning new tree now homegrown and available at Lanoha!


It may seem hard to believe, but our gardening neighbors in Eastern Colorado have more difficult soil conditions than we do in the suburbs of Omaha. A Fort Collins nurseryman was determined to find or develop a small maple tree that would have great fall color and handle the high pH soils in that part of the state. He really was searching for a replacement for the Amur Maple that usually was short lived due to the excessively high alkaline conditions in most home sites. For 14 years he walked his growing fields selecting the most promising new hybrids. Over these dedicated years, he kept coming back to one particular block of trees he referred to as "Hot Wings."  He said visitors and customers would visit his test fields and most would just stare and ask the same question: "What kind of tree is that?"  

In 2007, "Hot Wings" Tatarian Maple was introduced to the nursery market as seedlings. Our homegrown gems are now ready to make the same impact in your neighborhood as Hot Wings did in its original growing fields in Colorado. This charming small tree will mature at 20' tall with a spread of 15-17'. It performs best in full sun to light shade. It is adaptable to both dry and moist locations, and it is not particular as to soil type or pH. It is extremely winter hardy-even into North Dakota. 

Hot Wings has dark rich green foliage throughout the spring and summer. The lobed leaves turn a dramatic scarlet in the fall. It is truly a great small tree that ensures interest through all the seasons.  Small yellow/white blooms transform into its most outstanding feature-blood red,very small, shiny samaras clusters that clothe the tree for 6 weeks during the summer. They are absolutely stunning. The color does not bleach during the hot summer days. If you like to be a "leader" in unique and outstanding plant varieties, you must give this Colorado immigrant a test in your landscape. Be ready to have curious neighbors peeking over fences to see this new addition. Very little maintenance is required-if you need to prune, do it during the growing season-not when dormant as it will bleed sap like a birch!!

You must come and check out this great small wonder. Inventory of this little gem will not last long.  "Old Time" Nebraska/Colorado football fans who remember the rivalry that existed will get a" hoot" out of this great "Little Red Tree" a gift from the golden buffaloes.  



  Stressed plants are the most likely candidates for an insect attack!


If scale insects follow the pattern of some of the early season leaf-miner insects, this could be a year where serious damage could occur. The probable reason why insects may be severe is because of the moist cool spring and the fact that so much of our plant material is still struggling to recover from last winter's damages. Stressed plants are the most likely candidates for an insect to attack. "It's part of nature's survival of the fittest." 

 Oyster Shell Scale has attacked lilacs, dogwoods, cotoneaster, privet, and burning bush for years.  Recently lindens, many varieties of maples, and numerous ornamental trees have also become favorite targets of this damaging insect. The population of this insect will increase each year until entire branches or even sections of the plant dies. This tiny insect is quite vulnerable to horticultural oil sprays that will suffocate some of the eggs and prevent them from hatching later in the year. This spray can be used until temperatures regularly are in the 90's. Lanoha Nurseries has several excellent controls available at the garden center. Begin spraying in mid- June and repeat applications ever 10-14 days thru late July.

Fletcher Scale is a shiny dark colored scale that is often found on the interior bark areas of arborvitae, junipers, and yews. Damage often could be mistaken as winter injury. This is a real possibility this year since there has been so very severe winter injury to all three of these popular evergreens.  In high population situations a secondary condition of a black sooty old is quite visible and rubs off if the plant is contacted. Left untreated, Fletcher Scale can disfigure the plant so badly that it will need to be removed.  To avoid this tragedy begin spraying in early June and repeat every 7-10 days thru mid- July.


Kermes Scale affects many tree varieties, but oak trees appear to be their favorite prey. This hard shelled scale crawls in August and should be treated immediately. A similar scale called Lecanium hatches in early June and should be sprayed every 10-14 days through the end of the month. In some cases, a tree may be attacked by several different scale insects at the same time.

 Stop in with samples and our experienced staff will make the correct recommendations of products best suited for your particular needs. The use of liquid sprays are recommended for active scale populations the first year they are detected. In future seasons, Ferti.lome's Tree and Shrub Insecticide Drench is a good preventative measure against new infestation. This drench should be applied to the soil immediately next to the trunk of the tree once a year. An early fall-September application should give the tree ample time to translocate the insecticide though the tree before the eggs hatch the following year. Once the trunk of the tree reaches a circumference of 38" or more, two applications are needed-one in the fall and a second in early to mid- April the following spring.The use of liquid sprays are recommended for active scale populations the first year they are detected. In future seasons, Ferti.lome's Tree and Shrub Insecticide Drench is a good preventative measure against new infestation. This drench should be applied to the soil immediately next to the trunk of the tree once a year. An early fall-September application should give the tree ample time to translocate the insecticide though the tree before the eggs hatch the following year. Once the trunk of the tree reaches a circumference of 38" or more, two applications are needed-one in the fall and a second in early to mid- April the following spring.


  • Father's Day is June 15th. A living tribute to Dad is a B&B tree that will bring decades of memories around his favorite tree.The price includes installation in the metro area and a full 2 year guarantee! Tools, gloves, bird feeders, water features, or wall art for his office or "man cave" may really delight him with your great taste. Can't decide? A Lanoha gift card is available in the amount of your choice.
  • Adult Japanese beetles will begin hatching in mid to late June. Be prepared by treating roses now with Ferti.lome's "2 in 1 Drench" that will give a full month control of these hungry pests as well as common fungus problems such as black spot and rust. It is so easy to use!
  • Fertilize patio pots and baskets every 10-14 days to keep blooming at its peak.  We recommend Ferti.lome's" Rooting and Blooming" for amazing results. Every other feeding add a teaspoon of Superthrive to the fertilizer and watch with amazement at the results.
  • Spray for bagworms on spruce, junipers, arborvitae and other shrubs beginning about June 15th.  Spray three more times about 10 days apart. Stop in to the garden center for spray recommendations.       
  • After recent heavy rains, spider mites are going to be very active on vegetable plant like green beans and tomatoes, flowering annuals like marigolds and verbena, burning bush shrubs, evergreen junipers, arborvitae, spruce and shade tree locust. Once we get warmer weather this insect will explode in the landscape. Be prepared---they are difficult to control later in the summer!
  • On very open exposed planting sites, Wilt Stop, a spray-on "anti-descant" will help prevent wind tear, sunburn and scorch on newly installed plantings. This is very important for any "exotic" such as Japanese Maples, rhododendrons, azaleas, boxwood, holly, annual plantings, or houseplants used outdoors for the summer.
  • Summer Patch, sometimes called frog's eye fungus must be treated with preventative applications of fungicides before the disease appears. Monthly applications in early to mid -June and again early to mid- July are recommended. The garden center has both granular and liquid fungicide products for this damaging fungus.  Pick up your FREE guide at the Information Center.


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