Lanoha July Newsletter Header   

Dear Valued Lanoha Customer,

 

After a June that brought us ample moisture to our lawns and landscapes, it looks as if "outdoor living" summer weather has finally arrived here in the heartland. July brings many social events, vacations, sports competitions, and that wonderful time of the year to enjoy the backyard paradise you have created. Look around your landscape and note areas that are just not quite how you would like them to be. July is a great time to bring pictures and dimensions to the garden center and allow our experienced staff to assist you in your summer "face lift" to an area of the landscape that is just not what you want it to be. These are great family projects for the summer weekends ahead. The quality of container plantings allow you to install a full spectrum of landscape plantings through the entire summer calendar. We will offer the professional advice on the "right plant in the right location", and you will then be able to install those smaller landscapes and use the money saved on a special family outing! If it is a larger project, please call for a member of the landscape design team to assist you in your needs. Never think of summer as a time that planting is not "safe." The container grown trees, shrubs, roses, perennials, and most noticeably the larger B&B (balled and burlap) trees can all be satisfactorily installed during the summer months.

 

Use Myke products at the bottom of the planting hole at the time of installation or use Superthrive after the plants are in place. Repeat at least three applications of Superthrive during the first 4-6 weeks after installation to reduce planting shock and stimulate many fine white feeder roots that will be able to utilize the nutrients from the soil and the moisture necessary for successful planting. Summer winds can be searing and tender foliage may look stressed or tattered after a windy hot July day. Consider using an anti-desiccant spray on the foliage or needles of any newly installed plant. This protective breathable polymer gives the plant tissue resistance to the wind and sun without interfering with its breathing. Wilt-Stop is available in various sizes at the Garden Center.

 


THANK YOU FOR YOUR VOTES!  






   2014 Best of Omaha voting has begun! 

  Lanoha Best of OmahaWe just want to take a quick moment to thank all of you who voted us as Best of Omaha for Landscaping last year. We truly appreciate you taking the time to do that! Nothing makes us happier than helping our customers find the perfect landscape solution and bringing their dreams to life!

 

Voting for 2014 has begun and goes through September 30th. We would greatly appreciate your votes again this year! Click the image above to go directly to our category to vote! 

 


Wilting of Leaves 






  Doesn't always mean it's dry!

  Lanoha Tree Watering Tips  

While the ample precipitation has definitely been successful in creating more luxuriant vegetation, it has also proven how important adequate drainage is to the successful landscape. Heavy clay soils that are not conditioned prior to planting, may become devoid of air and cannot support a strong root system if the site remains wet. Even our home-grown gems suffer in such planting sites. Properly drained soil allows for the necessary exchange of air, gases, and water in the planting site. Drainage is vital not only for trees, but also flowering shrubs, evergreens, roses, perennials, and annual color.

 

For example, deciduous trees that are in a compromising situation will often exhibit stress by "shutting down" in order to escape the suffocation of their roots in soils that have little or no air space. Symptoms may vary from tree to tree, but commonly, leaves may begin to show orange , yellow, or red fall color as early as July and defoliate prematurely, or may even droop and hang down like a wet towel. DO NOT respond to either of these situations with additional watering as the tree will not survive! While newly installed trees are most sensitive to this wet soil condition, trees of all ages may show side effect of over watering. This is especially important to keep in mind during the hot days of July when additional irrigation of the turf may seem necessary. REMEMBER MORE TREES DIE EVERY SEASON FROM EXCESSIVE WATERING THAN FROM ALL THE DISEASES AND INSECTS COMBINED!

 

A good rule of thumb to use when wondering whether or not to water your new investment is to use a large screwdriver with at least a 12" shaft that is inserted into the root ball about half-way between the trunk and the edge of the root ball. If moist soil adheres to the shaft, DO NOT WATER THE TREE! Exact timetables are to be avoided when dealing with live plants.

 

A technique that may aid trees and plantings in an excessively moist site is to use a 2" wide soil auger attached to a " electric shop drill and auger holes 8-10" deep spaced every 12-18" around the root ball. This will allow air into the heavy compacted wet soil and encourage evaporation of the excess moisture. Filling every other hole with either perlite or pea gravel will also prove helpful.

 

A thin layer of mulch (1-2") deep over the root mass is recommended. Never pile mulch up against the trunk or stems of any planting. Mulch is very beneficial, but too much mulch in the wrong place can be very damaging. There is never any justification to piling mulch 4"-6" or more on any planting site. Mulch can reduce the amount of air getting to the plant's roots and can actually be a major contributor to the decline or death of any planting!

 

There are excellent, easy to follow, and FREE GUIDES available at the Information Center regarding watering methods for both B&B and container plants. Stop in today for your copy.

 

2 Perfect Trees


   For Limited Space 
Black Hills Spruce
Black Hills spruce (picea glauca var. densata)

Black Hills spruce is a variety, or subspecies, of the widely distributed white spruce of the American Northwest into Canada. White spruce has bluish-green foliage while the Black Hills spruce typically has denser and bright green foliage. Black Hills spruce is slightly slower growing than white spruce. While Black Hills spruce has been given the variety distinction, it is now considered to be a geographical variety, rather than a botanical variety. The Lakota Sioux Indians called this spruce wazi'heaka, meaning "like pine." The needles are 4-sided bright green with a hint of blue. The relatively short needles 1/3-3/4" long give the tree a very distinct look in the world of spruce. The tree is very tolerant of alkaline clay soils and drying winter winds. Young twig growth has bark that is orange-brown to gray. The bark is thin and flaky, usually ash-gray in color as it matures. This useful mid-sized blue-green colored spruce works perfectly in the suburban landscape. Use it as background foliage for colorful seasonal plantings. It is a great candidate for naturalistic woodland settings where limited spreading width is wanted. Consider it as a single specimen for semiformal schemes or exploit its columnar form by planting matched pairs in symmetrical landscape. Its dense and rugged nature makes it the perfect replacement tree for older pines that may need to be removed. They would make a great windbreak tree. This conifer is deer resistant and will grow in partial to full sun. In Nebraska its natural pyramidal size of 20-25 ft. tall and 10-15 ft. wide make it a tree for many uses. It is the one spruce that can handle some above average soil moisture provided the site is well drained. The outstanding inventory of this highly sought after conifer is at its peak right now at the Garden Center. Immediate installation, of a wide range of sizes, is now available. This conifer may be expected to live anywhere from 125-200 years. Stop in today to select from these gems!

Green Column Maple 

Acer nigrum' Green Column Maple

 

This Midwest native was discovered over 50 years ago in Des Moines, Iowa by Bill Heard in a stand of trees in central Iowa. It was a seedling of unknown patronage. While it is related to a sugar maple, it is distinguished from the sugar maple by having very small hairs on underside of the leaves. Some consider the black maple to be a subspecies of the Sugar Maple. The debate goes on, but the tree remains a real winner for the metro area. Sugar is tapped from the tree in the spring to make maple syrup.

 

It is known for its superior upright columnar shape and perfectly straight central leader. Maturing to approximately 40' tall and 20-25' wide, which really distinguishes it from the much wider sugar maples.   It should come as no surprise that this Midwest native is performing in an outstanding manner in metro landscapes. Our Green Column Maples come straight from Midwest seedlings, which have been grown to specimen sizes in our local fields. It is much more resistant to heat, humidity, and wind than the sugar maples.    

 

The hard wood of the Green Column is resistant to summer storms and the tortures that winter in the Midwest can deliver. The dark green 3-5 lobed leaves resist summer tearing making it a favorite for the breezy Midwest. Attractive yellow to orange foliage delights in the fall sunlight. The bark is smooth and gray brown when young and becomes scaly and furrowed with maturity. Our large inventory of home-grown specimen trees is available for your immediate inspection ensuring that you'll find that perfect fit for your landscape. Our full 2 year warranty and competitive pricing, which includes installation, makes stopping in to visit with one our experienced tree experts a must!

 

SPIDER MITES ON LANDSCAPE PLANTS
   Spider mites are very tiny - often not visible to the naked eye! 
Spider Mites on Landscape Plants

With the heat of early summer, following the cool damp month of June, the appearance of spider mites is a certainty. Spider mites are very tiny-often not visible to the naked eye. Spider mites can complete their development from egg to adult in less than one week. There are usually several overlapping generations in a single season. Repeat applications of insecticide will be required to cover the generations that overlap. When many feeding spots occur near each other, the foliage takes on a yellow or bronzed cast. Once the foliage or needle of a plant becomes bronzed it often drops prematurely. A plant that looks abnormally dusty or dirty may actually have a high population of insects feeding on it. The list of plants affected by mites is huge, but a few of the targeted plants are: spruce trees, junipers, palm trees on patios, arborvitae, a myriad of vegetables, burning bush, roses, brightly colored plants and honey-locust trees.

 

As temperatures rise, the spider mites begin to dehydrate and their response is to "suck" more moisture from the plant they have attacked. To detect spider mites hold a piece of white paper under the foliage and firmly tap. The mites are very tiny, but can be seen walking on the paper. Another test is to gently wipe your hand over the paper resulting in a telltale red smudge on the paper. There is no registered chemical for preventing spider mites. Controls include Malathion, Permethrin, Neem Oil, and Acephate. Quick response to first telltale signs is very important. Some choose to regularly spray during July and August every 10-14 days to stay ahead of damage. Samples are always welcome for analysis at the Information Desk.

 

FIVE BAD MISTAKES


   When Taking Care of Your Tree 

  5 Bad Tree Mistakes  

  1. Over watering is the most common killer of trees. It is important to point out that clay soil does not drain well and has a high capacity for retaining moisture. Plant roots require oxygen, which is unable to exist in soils that are always damp. Without adequate oxygen, the roots cannot function efficiently and will rot if the soil stays too damp for even a few weeks.       Do not put tree watering on a schedule-water only when the soil in the root zone has dried sufficiently that air has displaced the water and when water is added, tiny air bubbles should be visible coming from the soil.
  2. Grade changes of even a few inches of soil over an existing tree's root zone can begin a very gradual but steady decline in the overall health of the tree. Almost all of a tree's feeder roots are in the top 8-12" of soil.       The damage isn't noticed until the tree is so stressed that it will not survive. Smaller leaves, fewer leaves, earlier fall color, unusual heavy flower production, and excessive seed development are some of the symptoms of a tree in serious stress!      
  3. Herbicides of broadleaf weed sprays can also kill trees. The entire root zone of any tree or other plant should be avoided if using a granulated weed and feed fertilizer. If temps are high and even a mild wind exists, liquid herbicides can travel over a a mile and still damage or even kill plants.
  4. Improper pruning where stubs are left next to the trunk are invitation to insects and disease. Cut just outside the bark "collar" at the base of the limb.       This collar will heal over nicely and the tree will not be damaged. Birch, soft maples, red maples, and nut trees are always pruned when in "full leaf."
  5. Mechanical injury by lawn mowers and weed trimmers can be avoided if the turf is kept cut back a minimum of 18" from any tree's trunk. Remember, keep mulch back at least 4-6" from the trunk of any age tree.

 

A "CUTE LITTLE DEVIL" 


   A  perfect shrub! 
Little Devil

Introduced to the market in the spring of 2011, Physocarpus opulifolius 'Donna May' Little Devil Ninebark packs color and texture into a compact, easy to care for ninebark. Little Devil features beautiful deep burgundy foliage throughout the season and small white-pink clusters of flowers in June. This shrub is an excellent choice for any home garden because of its smaller size. Growing only 3-4' tall and spreading the same 3-4' wide, it is a great background for flowerbeds or the perfect shrub border. Little Devil is disease and pest resistant and requires very little maintenance. It keeps it great compact shape without pruning. It performs in full sun to part shade. The flowers turn into red capsules from early to mid fall and are striking against the deep burgundy foliage. Even the foliage improves in the fall, turning a purple red that is showcased against the peeling tan bark. It can be expected to live for over 30 years. It is adaptable to both dry and moist location and is not particular as the soil type or pH. Our inventory of these homegrown gems is impressive. You must find a spot for a specimen or a mass planting.

 


JAPANESE BEETLES ARE BACK! 

   Prevention begins now!  

June 2013 Newsletter - Japanese Beetles For any of the lucky homeowners who did not experience the 2012 invasion of their landscapes by the brilliant metallic green " long beetle with coppery wings and a row of five white hair tufts on their lower abdomen, the chances are pretty good that you will this season! The beetle is most active in the warmth of midday and does no night or early morning movement or feeding. They are very mobile with regular flights of over 5 miles a day. It takes a real "neighborhood" approach to successful containment. Some people mistakenly think that the lure trap is a method of controlling, but it actually will attract more beetles to your yard than would otherwise probably come. Use the lure traps only to "detect" that beetles are in the area and dispose of the trap after beetles have been caught in the trap. Begin chemical controls at once.

 

Some of the most attractive plantings to these insects are: roses-both shrub, tea, floribunda, and climbers, birch trees, lilac and willow shrubs, fruit trees, ornamental plum, vegetable crops, linden trees, and crab apples. It is amazing to watch how certain plantings can remain untouched right next to another plant that has leaves that resemble "lace."

 

There are a few natural repellents including chives, garlic, catnip, and tansy. The annual flowers larkspur and four-o-clocks are extremely attractive to the beetles, but they are also lethal to the beetle. I have a "test" plot this summer in a far corner away from my roses to see how this may work.

 

Chemical controls include carbaryl, permethin, neem, acephate, a new concentrated spray containing imidacloprid, and several RTU products containing new age chemicals unavailable in a concentrate form. Repeat applications are necessary. Bring in samples of plants affected so our experienced retail staff can make the best recommendation. The use of Imidacloprid (Ferti.lome's Tree and Shrub Insect Drench) is recommended as a good preventative control. It is necessary to have it on smaller trees and shrubs a minimum of 45-60 days prior to the hatch. On larger trees (over 10" diameter) treatments would be in the fall (September) and repeated in early April next year. Since large trees can present a real challenge to the homeowner to adequately cover the canopy of foliage with a liquid spray treatment, this systemic drench will be a vital partner in the future battles against these damaging beetles.

 

In the larvae or grub stage of this beetle, there can be turf damage, but it will not appear until well into September or October. This will challenge the homeowner as it will be damage occurring much later than what we normally experience with their relative-the masked chafer or "June Bug" as we have called it for years. If a huge population of beetles is in your landscape this summer, you should apply Imidacloprid in the form of a granulated grub preventive called Hi-Yield Grub Free Zone II during the latter part of July so the insecticide will be in the turf when the eggs hatch this fall.

 

Just as with June bugs, Masked Chafers, these Japanese beetles are here to stay. There will be pockets of the city that are more affected than others, but once they are here, they will not go away. The damage to plants should end by mid August. Pick up your FREE Japanese Beetle Guide at the Information Center.

 


JULY GARDEN TIPS

  • Keeping a green lawn during the hot and humid summer days ahead can be a challenge. It is not recommended to use high nitrogen fertilizers on bluegrass, rye, or fescue lawn in the heat of the summer. IRON RICH is an organically based dehydrated poultry waste product that is a very mild (3-2-1) fertilizer rich in sulfur (5%). The 10% iron content will amaze you with the speed at which it greens the turf without excessive top growth that could stress the lawn. Be sure to immediately sweep or blow off any granules that come into contact with concrete. This will eliminate the possibility of staining the driveway or sidewalks with the iron. Do not wash off with water until all the granules have been removed.
  • An "instant impact specimen tree" from our local growing fields, installed with our 96" root ball tree spade, will give you immediate shade and cooling to your home. Air-conditioning costs are greatly reduced with a properly located shade tree.
  • Continue feeding shrub, tea, and floribunda roses monthly until the middle of August. We offer liquid as well as granulated products that are organic or chemical based. Some are combinations with insect and fungus control in one application.
  • Monitor spruce, junipers, arborvitae, and other plantings for small bags attached to a branch that may be mistaken for a "cone." Inside this bag is a very aggressive insect called a bagworm that can quickly cause serious needle loss. Those needles that are eaten will not re-grow!
  • Imperfect foliage can be the result of insect or disease, but it can also be environmentally caused. Wind, heavy rain, hail, heat, and humidity can often mimic insects and disease. Bring samples to the Information Center for assistance.
  • The Garden Center is overflowing with interior and exterior accessories from around the world. Fresh inventories of ceramic pottery in all sizes await you.
  • Continue planting in July. Use Myke or Superthrive at planting time for minimal transplant shock. Always dig holes twice as wide as the container size you are planting ---but never any deeper. Amend heavy soils with perlite and cottonburr compost for best results.    
 

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