Fall 2012 Newsletter

Growing fig trees in Brooklyn is part of a long tradition.  While there are fig trees growing in all of the five boroughs, they are predominantly in Brooklyn.  According to Annie Hauck-Lawson, an authority on New York City food culture and history, Brooklyn had a large influx of Italians from the beginning of the 20th century until World War II.  They arrived in America bearing fig tree cuttings.  Per Michele Scicolone, a writer specializing in Italian-American culinary traditions, "There were certain plants that were iconic to Italian immigrants, and the fig was one of them.  They could take a branch from a tree back home, let it go dormant during the long boat journey and then plant it when they got here."

The writer's own grandparents had fig trees that her grandmother claimed came from Procida, an island off Naples.

Tony DiDio's grandfather Biagio planted a fig tree in 1940 in homage to his Sicilian roots.  That tree, now cared for by Mr. DiDio is a treasured part of their family tradition.  "Every August," he said, "all anyone in my family talks about is the tree.  'How are the figs doing?' they all ask me.  The tree is like a member of the family."

Wrapping fig trees for the winter is done by most gardeners in the city.  However, that may not be necessary unless the tree is very exposed.  Per Caleb Leech, curator at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, the very elements of the city that would make it seem inhospitable to fig trees (the brick and concrete) actually help the trees thrive in cold weather.  All the brick and concrete contributes to raised ambient temperatures and the walls of brownstone gardens can protect plants from the elements.  Come late summer, the thick skinned figs mature and are ready to eat.  Many feel that they are best eaten off the tree, still warm from the sun, bursting with luscious red flesh and crunchy seeds.  Others use them in everything from salads, grilling with meats, baking and jams.  And to think it all happens in Brooklyn.