Orchiata is a sustainable orchid growing substrate produced from 100% New Zealand Pinus radiata bark. Pinus radiata is 'farmed' so it will continue to be available without destroying native forests. Farming only takes 25-30 years before it can be harvested instead of traditional 85-95 years.

Pinus radiata is a hard and stable bark compared to other pine species. However, it needs to be processed from its raw state. The bark is wind rowed with Dolomite (calcium magnesium) which is added in the final stages of production. Natural heat is developed as the bark has water added and is slightly composted just enough to burn off the chaff and dust leaving only hard, clean, nitrified bark. Pathogens do not survive this process, but beneficial microorganisms do. This process creates a high quality, stable, long lasting, nontoxic, consistent growing substrate. It holds water and nutrients on the outside layer of each chip, as well as creating a slightly rough surface for roots to anchor on.

Adding Dolomite to the substrates is very beneficial, increasing the pH to within a range of 5.5 to 6.5 and providing the minerals calcium and magnesium, essential for plant growth. The dolomite in Orchiata provides the plant with an initial start up supply of these two minerals. It should not be washed out so don't soak it.You don't need to flush it either. As Pinus radiata bark is not soft and spongy it does not absorb additional salts. It only holds enough nutrients on the outside layer of the chip for the plant.

Orchiata comes in at least 6 different sizes, but 4 are about all that is probably useful for orchids. They are: Classic 1/4"-3/8"; Power 3/8"-1/2"; Power Plus 1/2"-3/4"; Super 3/4"-1".

Pinus radiata has been lasting a minimum of 3 years and growers in Japan claim 10 years. Once you get it 'broken in', it rewets quickly. That attribute doesn't come instantly. It takes 3-4 weeks (or more) depending on your growing conditions. When you first start to use it, you DO need to water more frequently or your orchids will become desiccated-which you don't want.

If by chance you do get some desiccation after you've repotted, individually take them to the sink & run water through the pot to thoroughly wet the Orchiata. Do this every other day or so until they have recovered. I had to do this because I didn't really believe you did need to water more frequently when I made the switch. Now I'm a believer.

So water frequently at first and a couple of months down the road you'll look at your orchids and they will have changed. They'll look healthier! Give them 6 months and you won't know they are the same orchids. No kidding, this stuff really makes them 'shine' in many ways. An example: in September I repotted a Pleurothallis grobyi & Dendrobium rigidum into Orchiata. Both orchids were about an inch in diameter at that time. They were not fertilized. Now the grobyi is 5" & rigidum 3". They have both flowered. To me, that's outstanding.

Now we know what Orchiata is, so, how and with which orchids have I used it?  It is best used as a standalone product, meaning there is no need to mix other components with it!  I bought a carload of Orchiata and started repotting everything from Pleurothallis to Vandaceous. First thing I noticed was how light & clean the Orchiata was. No slivers in my hands, no coughing from all the dust, and no assorted 'gunk' all over my work area. In the winter you can easily pot on a tray in your house without having to get the shopvac out to clean up. The first time you water, you will notice a little 'dust' does rinse off but not enough to clog your plumbing like some of the other stuff I've used over the years.

I grow in clay pots & plastic web baskets. When I want better than average drainage, I put an inch of large, chunky Orchiata in the bottom of the pot or basket & then added the size Orchiata that is correct for the particular plant and pot on. You could also use stones in the bottom, but that adds extra weight without the benefits of the Orchiata. Don't pack the Orchiata too tightly in the pot. Just drop it in as it falls and you'll have better drainage and air circulation. You may see some settling after a few months and if you do, simply top it off with more Orchiata.

I use baskets primarily for Vandaceous orchids. Depending on the size of the latticework on the basket, the Orchiata may fall out. If this happens, line the inside of the basket lightly with coconut husk (hanging basket liners). Some baskets I just set in a saucer like I do with clay pots. They do just as well as the hanging ones if they get as much light. In fact, I potted a Neofinetia falcata 'Fugaku' that way last September. I've had it for 5 years & it's not done much of anything. It's now in full flower. This stuff really does work!

The thing that has excited me the most about Orchiata is growing a Dracula. I've killed many of them over the years because I couldn't meet their needs no matter how hard I tried, even with advice from a friend that grows them like weeds in his basement. First week of December I'm lugging home two Dracula and one was a vampira in spike. They were both in web baskets with old 'stuff' around them. It did flower. Then it did like all the others in the past have-slowly deteriorated.  In March, I decided to repot it with Orchiata.  I knew plain Orchiata would stay too dry so I settled on a mix of bark, sphagnum moss & perlite that I mixed together. Put it back in the web basket (after I thoroughly cleaned it) and placed it on the small obelisk I keep them both on. Now, mid-April, it has 2 flower spikes and the leaves are full and shiny! I can hardly believe it. The other one is just as healthy.

So, get some Orchiata, pot some plants with it and watch them change. Then do a bit of experimenting of your own. I know you'll enjoy it.

By: Cleo Kiergaard