Tertre Rotebouef is one of the most interesting and unique chateaux in Bordeaux. It certainly has one of the most interesting and unique names: Le Tertre Rotebouef translates, spectacularly, as "The Hill of the Belching Beef". But even without the brilliant name, Tertre Rotebouef would be special.

The estate is located on precious clay/limestone terroir in the southeastern corner of St. Emilion, adjacent to Troplong Mondot, Larcis Ducasse and Pavie. The farmhouse on the property - farmhouse, not chateau - was built in 1730. Since 1978 the wine has been made by the dynamic iconoclast François Mitjavile. He consistently produces one of St. Emilion's top wines, yet it is unclassified, because Mitjavile is not concerned about rankings, classifications, or titles. He cannot be bothered to submit wines to obtain the St. Emilion Grand cru designation; since 1994 he has even removed the term Chateau from his labels. It is not surprising that he does not participate in the Place de Bordeaux distribution system: he chooses to sell direct rather than relying upon negociants. Untrained as a viticulturalist or oenologist, he has been using sustainable and organic winegrowing practices since 1989.

The wines really are utterly unique. The grapes (85% merlot, 15% cabernet franc) are picked late; yields are kept very low; the wine is fermented in traditional cement vats then aged in 100% new French oak for 18-24 months. No second wine is made: the focus is entirely upon making the best possible wine each year. Like many of the winemakers we greatly admire - Olivier Humbrecht, Pascal Cotat, J-Phi and J-Gui Bret - François' first loyalty is to the vintage, not a consistent ('average', in his view) house style. And yet the wines of Tertre Rotebouef are instantly recognizable. Unashamably big, rich, and full bodied (as a result of super-ripe merlot), they have an almost Burgundian voluptuousness combined with great concentration of flavour.