Christophe Delorme

The Story:

The Delormes of Domaine de la Mordoree are a lovely family, committed to their terroir in the broadest possible sense.  For them 'terroir' is not merely an expression of geology or geography: rather it is a concept that embraces the totality of life in the place where they live and everything about the way they conduct their lives in that place. They consider themselves to be 'guardiens' of the local ecology, which is why they farm biodynamically, and why they have chosen 'la Mordoree' as their symbol.

Nothing could be more apt: 'la Mordoree' - the woodcock - is an endangered species. Its survival is dependent upon a fragile ecosystem that is rapidly being obliterated by 'development' of the countryside.  La Mordoree is an especially profound symbol because it is a very secretive, rarely seen bird that cannot survive without the dense cover of the mature woodlots that are now vanishing from the Mediterranean basin.  It is ironic that the Delormes were first attracted to the region of Lirac as hunters.  As winegrowers their awareness has changed, and they now seek to protect and preserve not just the woodcocks they used to hunt but the precious habitat where they live.

The Delormes produce the finest wines in the Lirac appellation, and are renowned for the excellence of their rose wines, much beloved by Parker.  La Remise could not be more charmingly rustic and outside-the-box.  Merlot is a non-indigenous grape; marselan is an intriguing (and largely unknown) modern cross between cabernet sauvignon and grenache.  However the blend of the two produces a wine that is the essence of the South of France, fragrant, ripe and full yet absolutely bone dry.  A special feature of the wine is the very present but very supple tannin that is the hallmark of marselan. The fact that such a brilliant wine has such a lowly appellation - like Vino da Tavola for Sassicaia - is a delectable bonus, and an irresistible opportunity for reverse snobbism.