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Wine Adventures from Verona and a volcano!
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VINTAGES Adventures in wine
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This week's Wine Tastings:
TERRE NERE, Mt. Etna
FRI. 9/27, 4-7pm- Belmont; SAT. 9/28, 2-5pm-Concord
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WINE TASTING 9/27 & 9/28:
The explosive wines of TERRE NERE, Mt. Etna, Sicily!
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FRI. 9/27, 4-7p in Belmont; SAT. 9/28, 2-5p in Concord
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 Don't miss this exciting line-up from one of the most compelling recent developments in world-class wine -- high-altitude, volcanic soil, native grapes = Fantastico! Two whites: 2011 TERRE NERE Etna Bianco "Vigne Niche" $38 (with the red circular stamp) 100% old-vine Carricante fermented and aged in large oak barrels. Deep, rich and powerful. Look forward to a density of pure fruit, revealing layers of citrus peel, truffle and a hint of smoke. 2012 TERRE NERE Etna Bianco $23 One of the hallmarks of the Terre Nere wines is "energy." The explosive nose of lime, crushed rock, & smoke of this Etna Bianco commands your attention, followed by a pure, high wire tension that beckons you sip after sip. Grapes? A field-blend of old-vine local varieties: Carricante, Catarratto, Grecanico, Inzolia and Minnella. And two reds & rosato: 2011 TERRE NERE Etna Rosso "Guardiola" $45 Guardiola is one of the highest vineyards in elevation, 800-1,000m of steep, craggy terraces with poor soil. Tensile, austere, with absolute purity and power. 2011 TERRE NERE Etna Rosso "Santo Spirito" $45 Adjacent to Guardiola, Santo Spirito is lower in altitude and is gently sloped. Rich volcanic soil results in fleshy, sensual aromas, and a soft and elegant personality. Cherries, flowers, licorice and new leather. 2012 TERRE NERE Etna Rosato $19.99 The 2009 Etna Rosato from Terre Nere is made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Mantellato grown in vineyards ranging from 40 to 140 years of age. Graceful and elegant expression framed by cherries, licorice, herbs and minerals. A bargain. Mt. Etna speaks: Are you listening? |
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New Release: Ca' La Bionda CORVINA $65
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Another stunner from Verona: The "un-Amarone"
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 2008 Ca' La BIONDA Corvina Veronese $65 Alessandro Castellani has done it again. Two years ago, he wowed us with his Valpolicella Casal Vegri Ris. "Decennale" $50, a wine made from fresh old-vine grapes, aged in barrel for TEN YEARS before release. Only a small quantity came to our shores, and it disappeared quickly. Last year, Alessandro released his 2005 Amarone Riserva Ravazzol $90 to great acclaim from us and our astute customers -- no one else seemed to take notice. This year,  Alessandro has done it again -- with the 2008 Ca' la Bionda Corvina Veronese $65. What is the story here? 100% old-vine Corvina, the primary grape of Amarone, vinified "fresh" and aged for 36 mos. in barrel. It's nothing short of spectacular. Based on the stunning successes this winery has delivered recently, it's no stretch to understand this is a must-have for fans of the winery, of Amarone, or of wine innovations that offer greater understanding of terroir. VINTAGES will continue to follow this visionary, committed winemaker -- we hope you will too. |
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Cornu Burgundy & Granger Beaujolais
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BRUNA: The long odyssey is over!
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2009 EDMOND CORNU Ladoix Rouge $35 (Burgundy)
Just remind yourself how essential an earthy red Burgundy is -- simply pair it with autumnal dishes such as braised beef, a creamy mushroom sauce, or coq au vin. You won't remember that this 14 ha domaine has been in the same family for 140 years, that everything is done by hand from harvesting to destemming, and son Pierre is fully in charge, continuing the family traditions -- but you'll taste it.
Cru Beaujolais -- it's not nouveau.
It may take generations to recover from Beaujolais Nouveau, but these wines may speed the process. 2010 is a generously-fruited, harmonious vintage for this region on the edge of Burgundy. The domaine is GRANGER, the grape is Gamay: prepare to be pleasantly surprised by its depth and complexity.
2010 GRANGER Julienas Cru de Beaujolais Cuvee Speciale 1.5L $50
The Granger domaine, 14 ha of vines in the coveted Julienas appellation, has been in the family for 200 years. The "Cuvee Speciale" is a hand-picked selection of the oldest vines on the property (70+ years), which yield depth, complexity and structure. The wine is aged in large barrels before bottling. The magnums are particularly magnificent and a steal at $50!
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The Italian Riviera's Greatest Wine comes to our Shores
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Autumn favors Burgundian reds!
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You could say it all began with BRUNA. On our very first buying trip to Italy, shortly after opening our shop, we arrived in the beautiful Ligurian town of Lerici, just south of the Cinque Terre. During our first few meals of exquisitely delicate
frutti di mare, we happily enjoyed briny local white wines made from Pigato, Vermentino, and Bosco. While several were very good, which estate was considered the best? According to the loca
 ls, the answer was always "Bruna," a wine not available in our market. Bruna became the "golden fleece" of Liguria, and along with other memorable wine encounters, sparked an unrelenting oddyssey to obtain the wines that we love the most. Last spring at a trade tasting, one of our favorite importers asked me to taste a Ligurian producer's pigato and offer my assessment: while being solidly made, but altogether unexciting, I once again mentioned the wines of Bruna. As it turns out, they were available to be brought into MA. Lucky for us...and you.
white
2012 BRUNA Pigato "Le Russeghine" $25
Sets the standard for this little-known native grape. Channels the wild flowers, mediterranean scrub, hay, wild herbs and sea spray of this coastal paradise.
2011 BRUNA Pigato "U Baccan" $45 VINTAGES Exclusive
 Translates as "the boss" -- undisputed king of the Italian Riviera. Nose is very complex and elegant: sage, thyme, ripe stone fruits such as peaches and apricots, grapefruit skin, linden honey. Full-boded, sappy and unctuous with the power of crashing surf, an iconic wine of the region. red
2012 BRUNA Rossese $22
Red. Ethereal. Intriguing. Chillable. While doing the hard work of tasting and assessing this wine, I realized that I actually want it all for myself. So if you want to buy some for yourself, I advise you to buy it now, before I take control of the remaining inventory.
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CLOS CENTEILLES: The star of Minervois!
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 CLOS CENTEILLES. These singular wines from the Languedoc have earned a devoted following over the years: few wines offer this much character and aging potential for the money. For decades, owner/winemaker Patricia Boyer-Domergue has been innovating for quality, restoring lost grapes and wines while building the reputation of the region. The wines of Clos Centeilles vividly express the importance of place and the future of tradition.
2007 CLOS CENTEILLES $25 The flagship wine of the estate; the blend of Syrah, Grenache Noir and Mourvedre is traditional for the region; the profound elegance, depth, and complexity of character are not. 2011 "C de Centeilles" Blanc $22
A unique "heritage" wine created with long-lost grape varieties: Araignan blanc, Riveirenc gris, Riveirenc Blanc, Grenache gris. Complex, fleshy yet refreshing and beautifully balanced. 2008 "C de Centeilles" Rouge $17.99
The red counterpart to the heritage white, C de Centeilles Rouge is a blend of local nearly-forgotten grapes Piquepoul Noir, Riveirenc Noir, Morastel Noir a jus blanc, and Oeillade. (If it sounds like a mouthful, wait until you taste it!) 2007 Campagne de Centeilles $14.99
Made from a vineyard of 50-year-old Cinsault, a troublesome grape that in the right hands, yields a surprisingly age-worthy wine. Get to know what Cinsault can do. Special library magnums: 2001 Clos Centeilles 1.5L $70 (Tasting special 15% off)
Sweet, chewy tannins on long finish.
1995 Clos Centeilles 1.5L $90 Truly spectacular. |
The future of tradition in wine.
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