American Board of Certified Haircolorists 


May  2013

In This Issue
ABCH Exam Dates
Denver New ABCH
Summit Registration
Chase Wakeling
Peggy Sue Schmoldt
Summit Exhibitors
Direct Dyes
Retail is Still Alive
Naked Highlights
Lowlights from the Editor

13th Annual Energizing Summit
June 9-10, 2013 
LAX Marriott Hotel   
Don't put off registering the
classes are filling fast! 
Space available in hands-on classes!

2013 ABCH Examination Dates

   L.A. ..............JUNE 23                         SEATTLE...................SEPTEMBER 8

DALLAS ........JULY 14                         WASHINGTON DC.....OCTOBER 13

        BOSTON.......AUGUST 18                     ATLANTA .................NOVEMBER 3 


Links for more info: 

ABCH Certification Exam April 2013
Congratulations to our newest ABCH Certified Haircolorists!


Sadly, the only way ABCH can afford to hold an examination in Denver is that we are able to eliminate some of the major expenses of holding the examination, namely travel and hotel costs, since the evaluators all live close by. 

There were only 8 candidates for this examination, the smallest to date. The previous record was held by the city of Seattle back in 2005 with 9. None the less, Denver is a delightful city that we enjoy visiting. Paul Morrison and Nancy Searle were the evaluators. 

The smaller group of candidates resulted in extra time to brainstorm on how the examination can be improved and streamlined.  

We introduced a new trial change to the ABCH Performance Exam in Chicago this year and carried it through in Denver. A candidate who draws the two most difficult optional techniques can turn one of the two and draw again. Everyone who was able to take advantage of this new concept was most appreciative. The Board will determine if it will become a permanent part of the exam. Of the 8 who took the examination, 5 candidates passed and are now Board Certified Haircolorists. Congratulation again!

2013 ABCH Energizing Summit in Los Angeles 
June 9-10 at the Marriott Hotel LAX 

Over ten hours of educational sessions over two days

ABCH Members $250 

Non ABCH Members $300


Book your room at the LAX Marriott Hotel by the  May 15 deadline to r
eceive a discounted room rate of $115 
Call 310-641-5700 to make room reservations and be sure to mention you are attending the Energizing Summit or you can book online at Marriott Hotel LAX .
Register for classes now!
2013 Energizing Summit Educator introductions continue:

Chase Wakeling
One Step Color Correction

This class is designed to give you the information you need to perform color correction in the simplest forms, in just one step. You will be working on mannequins that have been damaged by previous highlighting and you will use real haircolor and bleach to correct them. Chase will demonstrate techniques, then you will be asked to repeat the technique on your mannequin. This is a class we all need. You will learn technique as well as formulating. You will also learn how haircolor responds to porosity and how to compensate for it.

A $45.00 surcharge will be assessed for the mannequin used.You take the mannequin with you at the end of the class. All of your tools and equipment will be furnished, including gloves and aprons. Plastic bags will be furnished for your convenience. 

Space in Monday workshop session still available.

Peggy Sue Schmoldt
Eliminate Formulating Frustrations

Peggy Sue will give you the "no-fail" tools to formulate. Formulating should not be a shot in the dark. It should be a well thought out process based on factors everyone should know.  Peggy Sue will put you through the 4 step process. This plan follows the ABCH curriculum from the lift deposit concept through the natural hair and determination of the undertones. You will see how big a part the undertones play in the final color result, and be amazed at how easy it is to always achieve your desires results. 

Support our Summit Exhibitors

Every year we have several exhibitors who help support the Energizing Summit. The exhibitors make it possible to keep the price of the Energizing Summit reasonable for you. Be sure to check out all the new exciting tools and products they'll have on-site for you to try! Lots of Show Specials.

Letter to the Editor with response from 

Aura Mae, ABCH Board  member and Summit Educator


    I have a question about highlights. I have a 23 year old client with a natural level 3-4. I used 1-0 demi-color Schwartzkopf ( Black) for a few years. She wanted Violet color highlights around the face. I lightened the pieces as best I could to a pale yellow, then used 4.20/4VVV demi-color RiaRichesse (Iridescent Burgundy )  on the pieces. I told her to wait 48 hours before shampooing.They came out beautiful but the color lasted about 4 days and kept getting lighter until they were a silvery pink. Redid them and they keep fading very quickly. Can you help? 
Thank you, Roseann F.
Hello Roseann,
My best guess about what might be happening with your client is that you have a porosity issue. Getting hair that has been repeatedly tinted with level 1 color to a pale yellow is a feat in itself, and I imagine that in doing so, we now have a level of porosity that is in excess of what the demi-color can handle. 

What I would suggest is to think of this as a corrective color and think about how best to fill the hair to create something that might have a chance at greater durability. I would ideally use a violet stain color (direct dye, not one that is mixed with an activator. In Schwartzkopf, this would be Igora Expert Mousse. According to their website, they don't have a violet shade, so I would recommend 5-88 (red) as filler.) Stains can be used as a pre-treatment before using a demi-color, and in some cases be just as effective on their own. 

My general rule for creating accents in dark hair is to lighten just enough for the accent color to show up. Since violet is a darker color, you might have had better luck lifting only to a brownish shade rather than pushing through to yellowland. 

If you have more clients asking for these type of services, you might want to invest in a direct dye product with more color choices. In my class at the Energizing Summit in Los Angeles this June, I will have swatches of hair colored with many brands of dye so that you can compare the results of fresh and month-old color across brand lines. 
I hope this helps!


Andre believes...

Retail is Still Alive


While no longer "new" to the hair product market, there are still brisk sales going on in "oils". It started with Moroccan Oil, followed by a slew of other companies introducing oil from every part of the Middle East and beyond. So far, some of them have maintained their no diversion policies, but don't hold your breath. 

I well remember the comment by Herman Cain when running as the candidate for the Republican Party. He commented about profit, "I have served on many a Board and I have never heard from any of my fellow board members, 'I wonder how we can slow things down so we are not making so much money.' " It is the prime directive of a company to continue to grow and make more profit. So when a professional company fills the pipeline but wants to continue to grow, diversion is one of very few options a company has to achieve continued growth. Sad but true.

 Naked Highlights- No Toners 

Various natural haircolor categories, as defined by ABCH, have characteristics that often pertain to a majority of that category.

  • People in the B category (Dark Brown) often hate reddish tones their hair when lightening or covering gray
  • People in the S category (Soft Brown) usually color their hair blonde for life
  • People in the W category (Warm Brown) are very attracted to multi-tonal hair, since their mid -level virgin haircolor naturally lightens into various warm shades

Of the three characteristics mentioned above, the desire for multi-tonal haircolor for those in the W category offers the most room for creativity. Highlights mixed with low-lights create wonderful dimensional haircolor. Gray blending and coverage are easier with warm blend-able colors.

An increase in chemical services, though, will result in higher grades of porosity and fragile hair; therefore, whenever possible, just like a doctor, suggest the haircolor service that does the least harm but also provides the desired results.

Avoid PPD present in most haircolor-toner formulas by not even using a toner! On hair in the W category that is healthy with a grade of 1 or 2 porosity, controlled lightening with low volume peroxide will allow you to remove certain foils as they reach the desired levels of lift. Since warm results are desired, the warm undertones exposed in lightening virgin hair and some artificial haircolors support the final result. Opening and closing the foil packets to check on the level of lift can lead to slipping and bleeding product onto the scalp.

Learn about haircolor theory- ABC's of ABCH, Mary Petillo's class at the Energizing Summit explains natural haircolor categories and their characteristics, as well as the Porosity Grading System

Learn about haircolor technique- Natural Reflections, Claudio Pascuzzo's class at the Summit, works with plastic instead of foil, which allows you to view the lightening stages undisturbed.

There is still space available in both classes. Register TODAY!
Lowlights from the Editor 
Are you Board Certified? ABCH recommends attending the Summit at least once every three years!  Come Visit!
Are you studying for the Exam?

Come take the prep classes to learn efficient methods for taking the ABCH Exam!

Are you new to the hair industry?

Come and learn about haircolor, be challenged, motivated and inspired. Come to the  Summit and be Energized! 


Problem? Question? Complaint? Suggestion?   

Write to me... I love getting email and talking to other stylists about haircolor! USE subject line: ABCH

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Mary Petillo, ABCH