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In this newsletter...
Thistles and Artichokes Article
More info on our Eggs
Upcoming Poultry Raising Workshop at Midsummer Farm

Greetings! eggs

We are happy to announce that egg laying season has started again! It always surprises me - it's like I've accepted that there are no eggs being laid - and then they start laying, and I'm shocked and thrilled all over again!

We will start selling eggs again at the beginning of February. We sell eggs by appointment at this point in the year.

You can also sign up for our Winter Egg CSA Share - which makes getting your eggs a bit simpler.

If you join our Winter Egg Share, you basically pay for your eggs upfront and can pick them up on Wednesdays. The share costs $90.00 which covers the cost of 10 dozen eggs. You can pick up your eggs one dozen at a time every Wednesday from February 11th through April 15th, or you can save a trip and pick up two dozen every other week.

Blue eggs Our eggs are usually harvested within days of you picking them up and are super fresh, with snappy, bright, eggy flavor. They last for over a month in the fridge with no taste degradation, and are still usually just fine 3 to 4 months later, just not as flavorful!

To sign up as a member of our Winter Egg CSA, simply download this registration form and send to us with a check by February 4th:

 
Or you can sign up for the share on our CSA page on our website through paypal. It's a little clunky - you will have to scroll down a bit to find the egg share info.
Sorry - new website coming!

We usually have extra dozens available at the CSA pickups for $9 per dozen. And we also offer duck eggs in early spring and summer, for $6 per half-dozen. If you want eggs that have never been refrigerated, we can arrange that - just let us know.

And as always, please do not hesitate to email or call with any questions you may have!

And more info on our eggs and what makes them so special can be found below.... Eggs in straw

I also completed an informative article on Thistles, including How to Grow the Elusive Artichoke - please scroll down for article in full.

And thank you to everyone who has taken the time to fill out our survey - your thoughts and insights are truly appreciated and so helpful! I will leave the survey up for another couple days so if you meant to fill it and didn't get a chance to ... please feel free! Here's the link: Our first online survey ever!  

All the very best
,
~Barbara and Mark
Midsummer Farm


Thistles - Growing, Eating, and Getting Healthier ! 
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artichoke head
It seems that most people cringe when they hear the word, thistle. Thistles are one of those plants with all sorts of cultural history and that evoke a wide array of emotional responses. They are everything from medicine to cultural symbols to delicious holiday meals to decorative designs for shortbread!

I love artichoke flavor, and I like growing thistles in general. I understand and accept the spines and spikes - and I make sure to wear gloves or not touch them! I think it is super cool that Artichokes are related to those onerous and sometimes bad-tempered Bull thistles, so I started pulling together an article on All-Things-Thistle.


Let's start with Artichokes
Artichokes are thistles and wonderfully delicious ones! The artichoke that you buy in the store is actually a thistle bud. If you don't harvest it as a bud and let it keep growing it will turn into a giant purple flower just like a Bull Thistle. And it will get all fluffy too!

Artichokes require very rich soil. They love to grow in compost piles. The soil must be well-drained and yet they must be watered regularly. If you they get too dry even early in the season the buds and stems will lack meatiness.

Many people think artichokes are impossible to grow around here because most varieties are zone 7 - maybe zone Purple Flower Artichoke 6. But that is only if you are trying to grow them as perennials. Artichokes are perennials and will come back after the winter for at least 3-4 years. (I have a bunch of artichokes growing in my greenhouse, which is set to get as cold as 33 degrees F.) But you can also successfully grow artichokes as annuals. The first trick is to give them enough time. They require a long warm growing season. And next trick is to vernalize the young plants - in other words, you have to let your young plants experience a cold period.

For several years I would keep artichoke seedlings through one winter and sell them at the Plant Sale as "2-year old" artichoke plants. But I have discovered that simply exposing the seedlings to a cold spell - or vernalizing them - accomplishes the same thing and obviously cuts way back on time!

So my artichoke growing procedure goes like this:
  • First in mid-January I sow the artichoke seeds inside under lights at room temperature.
  • I find that many artichoke seeds are duds or albino - so plant plenty of seeds and cull out any seedlings that look poor or are white.
  • Once the nice, even and healthy seedlings get 4 6 true leaves, move them to someplace cold. They shouldn't be exposed to temperatures less than 30 degrees, but they need a good chill at just around freezing. You can put them in a window in a cold basement or in a cold frame or cold greenhouse. Most varieties and especially the heirlooms need 2-4 weeks of this chilliness.
  • Then move them back into a warm place at around 60-70 degrees F. This process of cold-warm exposure is called vernalization.
  • Once they start growing again, transplant to large pots. They can be planted out in the garden after the last frost date - I usually wait until the end of May. If you can situate them against a south-facing wall or some other particularly warm and protected spot, your artichokes will do very well and they may even come back the following year.

The buds are usually ready for harvesting in late September or into October depending on the variety. Some new varieties like Imperial Star can be ready for harvest in August! As gorgeously dramatic as the buds look, make sure you actually cut them off and eat them! Once the buds start to open up too much, the heart starts to dissolve away to support seed production. (Unless you are trying to save some seeds for next year.) Also, artichokes bud in two flushes if they have enough time with warm weather. The first buds are called 'primaries' and are larger. The 'secondaries' then come in on side shoots off the main stem (like broccoli) and are smaller but tasty and seem to have more meat ratio-wise than the primaries.

When cutting off your artichokes - remember that the stems are delicious and tender and meaty. They are full of artichoke flavor and can be used as cardoons as well. So cut yourself off a lot of stem. But if you get too greedy and cut too low on the stem of the primary buds, you'll cut off where the secondary buds would have come in. Of course, if it is late in the season and you don't think you will have time for secondaries to develop, then take as
globe style
Green Globe Style
much stem as possible and enjoy them!!

Artichoke varieties that we're growing this year:
Artichokes fall into two main types - Green Globe and Long Purples

  • "Imperial Star" Green Globe - is a super fast new artichoke variety bred specifically to be grown in areas like ours as an annual.
  • Romanesco Green Globe - Wide and round globes - we have great success with this Italian Heirloom variety in our greenhouse. Outside, our success depends on the weather...
  • Violetto Precoce - Is a purple colored elongated style artichoke - this choke is tender and flavorful and has been grown in Italy for hundreds of years.
  • di Romagne - Another long regional purple heirloom from Italy. This is our first year trying this one.
    Purple Long Style
    Long Style
  • "Opera" Long Purple - We are considering trying this new variety from Johnny's seeds this year, to see if we get good flavor from a non-heirloom that can be grown in the field, but the seeds are $1 each! I hope they all germinate perfectly at that price!

Artichokes are often viewed as too much work to cook - and they do involve some prep before cooking. And they take some time to eat as well...

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Here's my typical artichoke prep steps:

Start by cutting the top 1-1/2 inch off.
Trim the dried end of the stem off, then cut the stem off, but save it. Make sure the choke can stand up on its bottom, now.
Then with a pair of scissors, trim the spiky points off all the leaves.
Then loosen the leaves slightly and rinse off.
Plunge into some lemoned water to prevent browning while you prep the next chokes.

Then grab the leaves and start  to loosen them -you have to be a bit rough here. Once the choke is relatively open, roughly grab the center leaves and twist them out of the choke. Be careful of interior spikes while doing this, especially as you get closer to the inside.  You need to make a space for the stuffing, which will be about ½ - ¾ cup worth. You will want to get all the fuzzy hairy pieces out of the center too, which are very sharp. After you get the choke open, wash it thoroughly

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Steamed Artichokes are Simple and Easy

Find a pot that would hold how ever many artichokes you want to cook standing up on their bottoms. Prep your chokes as above. Place them into the pot and fill the pot with water about 2/3 up the sides of the chokes. Add a large drizzle of Olive Oil over the tops of the chokes. Some slices of onion and black pepper would be lovely to add to the pot as well.
Cook the chokes with the heat on medium-low and the cover ajar for about 1-2 hours depending on how big and full the chokes are. Test for doneness by pulling on a leaf from around the middle area of one choke - if it comes off easily the chokes are done. If there is any resistance, keep cooking.

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To eat them, simply plop each choke in a bowl, and pull the leaves off and scrap off the meat from the bottom of each leaf with your teeth. A bowl for discarding the bitten leaves makes it easier. When you get to the center, be careful of spikes. Eventually as you approach the heart, there will be a lot of fur (this fur turns into the purple flower). Remove the fur and don't eat it or any of the spiky leaves inside. But under the fur, you will find the meaty and delicious heart!


You can also stuff artichokes! Here's my Stuffed Artichoke Recipe:

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Stuffed artichokes ready to start cooking Artichokes with Clam Stuffing
Per artichoke (but it is best to make a bunch! You can also prep them and stuff them and store in the fridge a few days before cooking.)
First prepare the choke: Follow the same steps as above, but really loosen the leaves and open up the middle of the choke. You have to be a bit rough here, but be careful not to break the choke. Once it is relatively open, grab the center leaves and twist them out of the choke. Be careful of interior spikes while doing this, especially as you get closer to the inside. You need to make a space for the stuffing, which will be about ½ - ¾ cup worth. You will want to get all the fuzzy hairy pieces out of the center too, which are very sharp. After you get the choke open, wash it thoroughly, and then plop it into the lemoned water.

Make the stuffing:
Ingredients:
Artichoke stem, minced by hand
½ of a medium onion, minced by hand
1 clove garlic, minced by hand
¼-1/3 can of chopped or minced clams (drained but save clam juice)
1-2 tbsp dried parsley
olive oil or butter
1 piece of bread
salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oil or butter in a small sauté pan. Add the onions, artichoke stems, clam meats, parsley, and garlic. Cook until the onion and artichoke is soft, and most of the liquid is absorbed. It will smell divine!

Add the salt and pepper, and take off the heat to cool a bit. Once cool enough to handle, break up the bread into crumbs and mix the stuffing by hand. Keep the mixing light don't totally mash it together. If you need more liquid, add some of the reserved clam juice.

Place the artichoke in a sauce pot that is small enough that it can't fall over, but not so small you have to jam it in there. If you have more than one choke, then pick a pot that can fit them all, standing up side by side and not fall over.

Stuff the choke, you may need to re-open the bud as it does tend to close itself again.  Add the rest of the clam juice, about 1/8 cup of olive oil per choke, and some water as needed so the liquid goes about 1/2 of the way up the sides of the chokes. I always add very thin circles of onion slices over the tops of the chokes... or some parsley sprigs or celery leaves...

Cook, covered on low heat for about an hour to 3 hours, depending on how big they are.
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Artichokes have been used medicinally as detoxifiers as well as for indigestion and as a bitter for centuries.

Cardoons Gobbo di nizzi cardoon
Cardoons or Cardi as they are known in Italy, like artichokes, require a long growing season to get to a size big enough to make the preparation and cooking worthwhile. We are growing two varieties this year, the Gobbo di Nizza, which is the one we had last year, and the Cardoon Bianco Avorio. We liked the flavor and the tenderness of the Gobbo di Nizza. It is considered the best cardoon variety for flavor. But we found that it wasn't nearly as large as we expected it would be and the stems were very thin compared to the stems of our artichoke plants being grown right next to them. Maybe if we had a warmer summer and fall Gobbo di Nizza may have preformed better, so we're trying it again. But we also decided we had to try Cardoon Bianco Avorio which is supposed ot be faster growing.

I have heard that people used to consider the roots of the Gobbo di Nizza delectable. I may have to try them!

The buds or chokes of cardoons are very small, these plants are grown for their large meaty leaves. You strip the thin leafy part off the leaves and eat the leaf rib - kind of the opposite of Swiss Chard where most people strip off the green leafy part and disgard the thick stem-like ribs. (Although I have to say I always cook my chard stems...)

Cardoons are a very traditional holiday meal for Italian and French people during Christmas time. The flavor goes very well with Truffles, which are usually in season at the same time in Italy.

Like Artichokes, Cardoons require a bit of prep work. Here's some prepping steps:
  • Loosen up the Cardoon bunch which resembles a celery bunch in structure.
  • Snap off the outer big ribs and work toward the center until you get to the nice tender pale inner leaves.
  • Cut the bottom off the inner leaves so they fall apart, and cut into manageably sized pieces for your recipe. Plop into lemoned water.
  • Then start to trim and clean up the outer stalks.
  • Trim off any brown areas, peel lightly with a peeler and put any strings out just as if you were cleaning celery.
  • Cut into properly sized chunks and place into the lemoned water.

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Baked Christmas* Cardoons

*Delicious anytime on cold wintry days especially!

Ingredients:
about 2 bunches of cardoons
6 tbsp butter, softened
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
freshly grated Parmesan cheese
about 1-1/2 tsp sea salt
fresh black pepper

Bring water to boil in a large pot. Take cardoon pieces out of lemon water and place into boiling water. There is one issue here to be aware of - the smaller pieces will cook much faster than the bigger ones. So you either put all the pieces in together and remove the thinner ones first, or cook them separately. Either way add a heel of old bread to the water as you start cooking the cardoons. This may just be a tradition, but it supposedly helps remove the bitterness and I've always been afraid not to add the bread.

The thinner stalk pieces will take about half an hour to get fork-tender. The thicker pieces may take up to an hour. Once they are all cooked, drain thoroughly.

Meanwhile preheat oven to 350 degrees. You will need a baking dish that will allow you to make 2-4 layers of the cardoon pieces, so it will be a pretty small baking dish. The thicker the better for this recipe. Coat your baking dish with about 2-3 tbsp of butter. Melt the rest of the butter.

Once the cardoons are cool enough to handle, spread some out in a single layer in the baking dish. Sprinkle lightly with some of the salt and pepper to taste and some of the grated cheese. You don't want to mask the cardoon flavor with the cheese - you want to use just a dash of cheese to bring out the cardoon flavor. Continue layering with rest of cardoons. Pour melted butter and olive oil over the top, add a dash more cheese...

Bake covered for 35-40 minutes. Then uncover and bake another 10 minutes or so until it is golden brown and bubbling.

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And Here's a link to a pureed Cardoon Soup recipe that we fell in love with this winter - it was created by our friend Vivian of Food and Style...
We didn't have black truffle carpaccio, but we used black truffle salt instead of regular salt and a nice drizzle of black truffle oil and it came out absolutely wonderfully!

I think right now the vast amounts of cardoons being grown in individual gardens are for decorative purposes - these are gorgeous plants with a strong architectural structure of attractive pointy silvery-green leaves. Artichokes and Milk Thistles are also highly ornamental, large, attractive plants, despite the stickers.

If they are started very early inside and either well-protected from cool weather or brought indoors in the fall, you can get pretty sizeable cardoon leaves. I start my cardoon seeds mid January under lights. You don't need to vernalize cardoons, as we don't really want them to get flower buds. Cardoons may get buds or chokes but if you are trying to get nice big meaty stems for Thanksgiving or Christmas Dinner you should cut these off and let the plant focus on leaf growth. In the fall, about 2-3 weeks before you plan to harvest them, pull the leaves together into a bunch and wrap them in a piece of burlap or newspaper to blanch them. This makes the stems grow fatter and paler and less bitter.

 
Milk Thistle A young milk thistle plant
The seeds of the Milk Thistle are one of the best liver protectors and healers in the plant world. They stimulate the regeneration of liver tissue, guard against free radical oxidation, boost the body's synthesis of glutathione, a major anti-oxidant, and even lower fat build up in liver. These seeds have been reported to reverse mushroom poisoning in Europe. Milk Thistle also acts on the liver as a stimulant - breaking up stagnation of the liver. A combination with Milk Thistle and Mugwort, Oregon Grape Root, Yellow Dock Root, Artichoke, and Bupleurum would be lovely for waking up the liver.

I make a tea with Milk Thistle Seed, Dandelion Root, Burdock Root, and White Oak Bark that I drink as a Spring detox a couple times a day for 2-3 days.  

Like most thistles, the whole plant is edible, but the stickers prevent a lot of munching. So Milk Thistle is mostly grown for its seeds, which are the medicinal part. Once the seeds are ground up, they get old fast - so it is best to not use commercially-made milk thistle products like tea bags or capsules as they tend to be very weak. The whole seeds store very well, so it is best to grind up the whole seeds right before use them. I usually buy Milk Thistle Seeds from Mountain Rose Herbs - they are certified organic, nice and fresh and considering the work I would have to go through to grow and harvest my own, the price is amazing cheap! I have lately been grinding up a tbsp or so of seeds in a coffee grinder and sprinkling over salads. The taste is mild with a slightly nutty flavor.
It makes your salad even more detoxifying and energizing! Even if you try to live a super clean organic lifestyle, your liver still gets exposed to things that damages it or keeps it from functioning optimally. Your liver is your first line of defense that your body has for keeping itself healthy so using Milk Thistle seed as an extra support regularly just makes sense.

Dried milk thistle head Even though I usually buy bulk Milk Thistle Seeds for using, I grow the plant anyway. It is an amazingly handsome and dramatic looking plant. It is tall and shaped like an artichoke or cardoon plant, but instead of dusty silvery leaves, the Milk Thistle plant has leathery, thick, smooth leaves that are dark forest green with a white varigation down the center. Stunning, truly.

Like artichokes, Milk Thistles need a long growing season to get flower or seed heads. I usually start my Milk Thistle seeds inside under lights in late February, transplant into pots in April, and plant them out in the field once it warms up at the end of May. To harvest seeds, you let the chokes turn purple and then let them dry up and turn brown. This happens in late September or October. As soon as they turn brown, I bring them inside and let them dry out the rest of the way on a screen. If you try to let them dry outside they almost always get moldy. Fall tends to be cool and damp and they will ripen fully even cut off the plant. You know the seeds are ripe when they turn brown. You could get 1/4 cup of seed from each plant if all goes well...


Blessed Thistle
Blessed Thistle is a wild-looking, weedy-looking thistle plant. It has a long history of medicinal use for various complaints and issues and is still used to various herbal liquors. Blessed Thistle, also known as Holy Thistle or St. Benedict's Thistle, is rumored to be one of the 27 secret herbs that have been used to make Benedictine Liquor since 1510 in the Abbey of Fécamp, in Normandy.

Blessed Thistle is used by herbalists mostly as a bitter - aiding in digestion and stimulating appetite. In the Middle Ages it was a popular tonic especially among monks and is still used as a general tonic. It is also used to encourage and promote lactation.

I have found that it grows fine around here but doesn't thrive and spread, which is probably just as well because it is similar in appearance to annoying thistles like Sow and Canada thistles. It doesn't get tall like those thistles though - it stays about 1-2 feet high, sports yellow-pinkish flowers, and has a reddish tinge overall.


Wild Thistles bull thistle fluff
Although I would recommend that you work to eradicate all Sow or Canada Thistle from your garden or yard, I do hold a controlled and careful place in my heart for Bull Thistles. I do find that at least in my yard, Bull Thistle doesn't go crazy spreading, but you should keep you eye on it. I think it doesn't get to go crazy here because we have lots and lots of wild thistle-eating birds, and they love the bigger seeds of the Bull Thistle. Too bad they don't seem to want to bother with the Sow Thistles...

Bull thistles are the particularly large and chunky thistles that start as a very dense, very flat rosette of dark green leaves with silvery, and truly impossibly dense, stickers. Most gloves won't protect you from these monsters. Anyway, they get very tall - over 5 feet high often - and they get large, purple flowers very similar in color to artichoke flowers. The flowers are loved by bees - especially Bumblebees. And the flowers turn into fluffy puffs that goldfinch and other birds use for their nests.

The Bull Thistle has a lot of same medicinal qualities as other thistles, but the stickers make it impossible to utilize in any efficient manner. Best to let the bumblebees and gold finches figure it out!


Jerusalem Artichokes or Sunchokes Sunchoke Harvest
Had to mention this - Sunchokes are not related to Artichokes at all! They are a fun plant to grow but they are related to Sunflowers. And you don't eat the flowers, you eat the root rhizomes. Sunchokes are hardy perennials around here and can get out of control. They are also very tall, so plan a spot where they are both controllable and won't shade your sunloving plants in late summer. I use the flowers for cutting so I give mine a very severe trimming in late summer and dig the tubers up toward the end of September. I often have trouble harvesting the roots of perennial plants, but I don't have an issue with harvesting these - you simply cannot irradicate them.


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CHICKENS AND THE GARDEN FARM   Eggs

There were many factors that contributed to our decision to raise chickens and poultry on our farm. First of all, we wanted a nutrient dense and clean protein and fat source in the form of eggs. And we also wanted an animal that could fit comfortably with our farm's size and purpose. Our chickens have had a very positive impact on the improvement and development of our soil, and they are probably the most influential element in why our soil is so wonderful and productive today.

 

 


NUTRIENT DENSE EGGS

Our eggs are from fulfilled and happy hens living in a naturally sustainable environment... 

 

We feed our laying hens certified organic, non-GMO feed as well as allowing them to freely roam our farm all day long every day. This roaming allows our birds to eat a diverse and varied diet and allows them to produce eggs that are nutrient dense and fully nutritious. The nutrient-richness is obvious when you taste our eggs. They are higher in Omega 3 Fatty Acids, Antioxidants, and other nutrients. Eating our eggs will balance cholesterol levels and provide important nutrients for brain development.

 

The hens that do such a wonderful job laying eggs at Midsummer Farm are treated as family members. They are respected as living, feeling beings and thus enjoy spending the entire day ranging in about 3 acres of pasture, woods, wild meadow, & riparian areas all of which are organically maintained. They are only cooped up at night for their protection; the coop is maintained using a deep-bedding method where composting starts in the bedding itself. The manure is treasured for the wonderful compost it makes and is used on the farm to grow our vegetables.  

 

Our flock is a paradigm of good health; we have never had to use antibiotics or chemicals. This is all a part of how we ensure the circularity and sustainability of our farm and land.

 

 

John William


CERTIFICATIONS

Our chickens, as well as the land that they range on is Certified USDA Organic, Animal Welfare Approved, and Certified Naturally Grown.  

 

We are dedicated to making sure that our birds get to experience all the things that make birds feel fulfilled. Their ranging territory is diverse providing interest and the ability to truly forage for what they need. We allow hens to become broody, set their own eggs, and care for their own chicks. We have a variety of ages on the ground, young pullets mixing with the mature hens, being able to establish relationships and hierarchies normal to chickens. We never cull older non-laying hens. Part of the egg price you are paying for with these eggs is to help feed the older non-producing birds, who deserve to live out their lives naturally and in peace. 


Animal Welfare Approved.  We felt that the USDA Certified Organic and Certified Naturally Grown certifications did not demand the level of humane animal care that we believe in. Animal Welfare Approved has the strictest standards for humane animal care in the country, and we want to support them and be a part of their organization.  

 

Beyond the natural diet of insects and diverse vegetation our hens get while ranging, the grain we feed our birds is always certified organic, local, and never genetically modified. This high-quality food insures that the eggs will also be of high quality. These eggs have extremely dense yellow yolks. They are not only naturally high in Omega-3 fatty acids and a bounty of other nutrients, but they are also the epitome of the goodness of fulfilled and happy hens.

  

  Tapas in Field


HOW TO PURCHASE OUR EGGS 

Our Eggs can be purchased at the farm during our open sale days and workshops or by appointment. We sell to individuals and to groups. 

 

Our Eggs can also be purchased in the springtime at the Hungry Hollow Co-Op in Chestnut Ridge, NY and at Harvest Moon Health Food store in West Milford, NJ.  

 

Most of our eggs are sold through our CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) Program. We offer both a Winter Egg Share and a Summer Egg Share. More information and sign-up dates can be found on our  CSA page.   

 

 


WHY AREN'T MIDSUMMER FARM EGGS

Snowy Chickens

AVAILABLE YEAR-ROUND? 

Eggs are actually seasonal. Hens that are truly outside on pasture realize winter is on t

he way by the daylight hours waning and temperatures dropping. When they realize winter is coming, they slow down in laying eggs and start molting their feathers and growing in new winter feathers.  

 

For a hen, eggs are not just for our breakfast, they are for producing chicks. And any good, naturally-raised mother hen knows she doesn't want to raise babies in the cold of winter. So hens usually slow down in egg-la

ying in the Autumn and wait until they see the daylight hours getting longer again, before they start laying eggs in earnest again.  

 

We usually see a big increase in egg laying starting around Groundhog Day. So we start selling eggs in February, which is also when our Winter Egg CSA session starts up again. Our official egg season is usually February through August.

 

 

WHAT IS THE BIG DIFFERENCE BETWEEN MIDSUMMER FARM'S EGGS AND OTHER LOCAL, FRESH EGGS?Just hatched

The main way that our eggs are different from other local and farm fresh eggs is the feed we feed our birds. Our chickens never eat any feed made with GMO corn or soy or any GMO ingredients at all. The brand of feed we use is also certified organic. We only allow our chickens to eat certified organic vegetables and garden scraps. It is the cost of this super high quality non-GMO feed that determines our egg pricing.  

 

We only break even on egg sales at the prices we charge, and the caring for the chickens is a lot of work and time, but we think it is worth it. It is something we do because we believe in it, our eggs sales do not contribute to our farm's profits! We want to eat the cleaniest and healthiest form of eggs ourselves, and we are very happy to have enough to share with others in our community as well. 

 

You may be wondering why our eggs are so much more expensive than grocery-store eggs. The reason is that they are produced differently. We are a small farm, our products are hand-produced. Grocery-store eggs come from factory-style farms - even the ones marked 'Organic' or 'Free-range' or 'Cage-free' are still produced in unbelievably large masses and in production-line style. 

   

 

Buff orpington head shotCOMPARABLE BRANDS TO OUR EGGS?

A couple years ago we ran out of eggs in the middle of December. We usually save enough to get us through the autumn and early winter, which is off-season for eggs. But somehow we used more than we planned for. I needed eggs for holiday baking.

So I went to Whole Foods and looked over the egg selection. There were a couple brands that actually seemed, 'on paper' or 'on the carton' to match our eggs in caliber. In other words there commercial brands were animal welfare approved or some other strict humane certification. They were certified USDA organic so no GMO grains in the their feed and no chemicals used in raising them. The labels mentioned pasture raising and had photos of green fields. They were all from Southern locales, so I thought, 'well, that makes sense - they'd still have green grass and more sunlight to induce laying down in the South.'

The price also seemed to suggest that same raising techniques that we use here. These brands were sold by the half dozen and were prices at $6.99 - $8.99 per half dozen. Economically that made sense to me and matched my experience in costs for raising chickens properly.

So I bought one carton of each of the brands. But when I got home and started using the eggs, I was disappointed in all of them. When I broke them open, the insides fell out  - all loose and watery, making it quite clear that they were very old despite the date on the carton. The yolks were so pale it was obvious that the hens that laid these eggs hadn't eaten green grass in a very long time, if ever. It goes without saying that these eggs were tasteless and terrible compared to our eggs. So sad. I can't imagine what lower quality supermarket eggs are like. I'm seriously spoiled. But maybe not - we work hard to raise our birds and have such nutrient dense and brilliantly tasting eggs. So maybe I'm not spoiled - I just have high expectations for my food and prioritize and work hard to achieve those expectations! eggs in basket

Anyway - now we save lots of eggs for the winter. The hens have just started laying again, and so we just ate the last eggs that we saved in late September. It is January 12th today. So the eggs were over 3 months old. And they were still quite good. Dark yolks of course, but with looser whites and less flavor overall. Not the best for a breakfast egg dish, but just fine for other uses like baking.


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Upcoming Workshops at Midsummer Farm!  
You can register for a workshop by visiting our website, and either downloading and mailing in a registration form and check or through our PayPal option. You must register in advance; I will send you a confirmation email a couple days before the workshop. 

 


Inga - Speckled Sussez
Backyard Organic Poultry Rearing Workshop

Sunday, January 25th, 11 am - 1 pm

For anyone who has dreamed of walking out to your own chicken coop and collecting fresh eggs for breakfast, this course will guide you through starting up your own flock and in organic and natural rearing methods. We will discuss all of our secrets to Organic chicken care that we have discovered over the years. Chickens are wonderful stewards of the earth; and kept in proper conditions, chickens are valuable assets to the garden, lawn, and compost pile. They also provide backyard joy. They are easy to take care of, are not noisy or smelly, and are an important part of the Organic garden. (Please be sure to check with your town to make sure that chickens are allowed where you live.)   

 

This is one of our most popular workshops, here is an outline of topics we cover: 

  • Preparing ahead - coops, fencing, tractors, runs, etc.
  • It is extremely hard to break habits in birds!
  • Pasture-Raised vs. Free Range
  • Predators
  • Roosts for sleeping
  • Nest Boxes for laying
  • Deep-Bedding method for Composting within the Coop | Cleaning | Composting of fowl manure
  • Resting of Runs - cover cropping (mustard, grains, clover)
  • Chicks vs. Pullets
  • How to care for chicks
  • Choosing Breeds - Winter-hardy vs. Mediterranean | brown vs. white egg layers
  • Roosters or not ?
  • Incubating your own chicks
  • Feeding - what is Organic Feed? GMO free? Soy free?
  • 'Alternative' poultry forages
  • Supplements for chicks
  • Effects of what the birds eat on the eggs - "Omega 3 high eggs"
  • Cholesterol myths and eggs
  • Calcium - oyster shells, eggshells, dark leafy greens, other Calcium sources
  • Granite Grit and ranging
  • Problems to be Prevented - common parasites, diseases, issues, etc
  • Chicken First Aid kit
  • Dust baths
  • Older Birds in the Flock
  • Heat in Summer and Winter cold

Workshop takes place at Midsummer Farm |Cost is $36 ($38.50 online)|  

Registration closes 1/22/15

 

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You can register for a workshop by visiting our website, and either downloading and mailing in a registration form and check or through our PayPal option. You must register in advance; I will send you a confirmation email a couple days before the workshop. 


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Disclaimerness

© Copyright 2015 Barbara Taylor-Laino, HHC / Barbara Taylor Health. All Rights Reserved. This content may be copied in full, with copyright, contact, creation and information intact, without specific permission, when used only in a not-for-profit format. If any other use is desired, permission in writing from Barbara Taylor Laino is required.

 

This information newsletter is designed as an educational tool for better health. Recipes and information are included as examples for you learn from; they are not diagnostic or prescriptive. Everyone's health needs are different. This newsletter is not to be used as a substitute for medical advice, diagnosis or treatment of any health condition or problem. Any questions regarding your own health should be addressed to your own physician or other healthcare provider. The entire contents of this newsletter and the websites of Barbara Taylor Laino and Midsummer Farm are based upon the opinions of Barbara Taylor Laino, unless otherwise noted. Individual articles are based upon the opinions of the respective author(s), who retains copyright as marked. The information on the www.midsummerfarm.com website is not intended to replace a one-on-one relationship with a qualified health care professional and is not intended as medical advice. It is intended as a sharing of knowledge and information from the research and experience of Barbara Taylor Laino. You are encouraged to make your own health care decisions based upon your research and in partnership with a qualified health care professional.

Midsummer Farm Contact Info:
Barbara and Mark Laino
Midsummer Farm
156 East Ridge Road
Warwick, NY 10990
845-986-9699
info@midsummerfarm.com

Holistic Health Counseling Contact Info:
Barbara Taylor-Laino
Barbara Taylor Health
156 East Ridge Road
Warwick, NY 10990
845-986-9699
info@barbarataylorhealth.com

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