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Issue: 11   June 2nd, 2013
Greetings from Beiers! 
Greetings!
 
NOW IS THE TIME TO PLANT!!
It's all about Flowers and Vegetables Now!
Stock up with Beier's Quality Plants Grown in the North for the Northern Gardener.

Marigold Flowers

 
ANNOUNCEMENTS! 
This Weeks Specials
June 3rd Ad  

Check out the GREAT coupons located at the Bottom of this Email!
Upcoming Events & Seminars
Upcoming 2013 Classes and Events at Beier's Include:
(Click on the name of the class to see details about class)
 
Adult Community Education Classes:

 

Youth Community Education Classes

 
If you would like more information or are interested in registering for any of these classes visit www.getlearning.org ocall Community Education at 218-327-5730
 
You can also visit Beier's Greenhouse BLOG for class flyers 
Fairy Gardening Class
This is the PERFECT CLASS for Gardeners of  
Every Age and Skill Level!
 
Date: Monday, June 10th
Time: 5:30pm
Cost: $8

Email or call us to hold your spot!
beiersgreenhouse@hotmail.com
218-326-5357

 

 

   

FEATURED ARTICLES
The Edible Landscape

  Beier's Hybrid Mix

ONIONS

 

Before planting, divide the sets into two sizes. Use the largest sets for green table onions and the smaller sets for dry cooking onions.

 

SOIL TYPEonions

Make sure the pH is about 6.5 to 8.5 and that the soil is well drained, firm and not freshly manured.  

 

PLANTING THE ONIONS 

In early to mid May, you can start to plant onion bulbs. To ensure you have straight rows, you can pull a string across the gardening bed, ad push the bulbs into the earth just along the string. Make sure you watch the freshly planted onions because birds like to peck them out of the soil. For that case, keep a few extra bulbs and plant those when you notice that some have gone missing. If you find that the birds are too large a problem to fix with a few bulbs, it may be helpful to protect the onions with bird netting. The frost will not harm the onion since it likes cool moist temperatures. Make sure you water bulbs thoroughly right after planting.

GREEN TABLE ONIONS
Choose the larger sets, the size of a nickel or larger, and plant in a row, with the roots down, ½ inch apart and 2 to 3 inches deep. Deep planting produces more white edible stems. In just 4 to 5 weeks the onions can be harvested. Continue to plant sets weekly for a continuous supply throughout the summer.

 

DRY COOKING ONIONS

Choose the smallest sets, the size of a nickel and smaller. Plant in a row, with the roots down 2 to 3 inches apart, and only deep enough to cover the top of the sets with dirt. Keep the rows of sets about 12 inches apart. When bulbs are ripe, the tops begin to yellow and fall over. When all tops are dead, pull up plants and spread them in the sun for 3 to 4 days. Store in mesh bags.

 

DURING THE GROWING SEASON

Periodically hoe the ground around the onions shallowly and make sure the plants are kept free from weeds to give them as many nutrients as possible. Fertilize the plants every month with a general fertilizer to give the onion enough nutrients. At this point the bird netting can usually be removed since the green stalks will not be that attractive to the birds anymore.

 

HARVEST AND STORAGE

In late August and early September it will be time to start harvesting the onions. If you want smaller onions, you can harvest them earlier. When the bulb is ready for harvest the leaves will bend over, but usually you can just pull up the onions you deed for table use, or you can harvest all the onions at the same time. For the largest onion it might help if you lift them up with a fork. If you want to enjoy the onions in the winter months, you should spread the onions on sheets of newspaper in a dry, warm place for about 2 to 4 weeks. This place should be sunny, but don't let the onions get rained on or have dew falling on them. This will make the sure the onions are dry and will not rot when you store them in the winter. Once the onions are dry you can store them like store bought onions in net bags, or in slatted trays, or you can tie the dried stems to string and you can hang them in a cool dry place. This method of storing will let you eat onions will into the spring.

 

 

A FROST AFTER PLANTING WILL NOT HARM THE SETS!

ONIONS ARE HEAVY FEEDERS, FERTILIZE WELL AND

A CONSTANT SUPPLY OF WATER IS ESSENTIAL.

 

 

POTATOES

 

WHEN TO PLANT? Potatoes

Potatoes tolerate a cool soil and a moderate frost. Plant in early to mid-spring. Cool nights are needed for good tuber formation. If you cannot plant within a few days of the purchase of your seed potatoes be sure to store them in a cool place

HOW TO PLANT?

Good size pieces increase the chances for a good yield. Cut pieces about 11/2" square, be sure that there is at least one good eye per piece. Set seed pieces, cut side down, 4" deep, 12" apart in rows 24" to 36" apart. The potatoes form on many stems rising from the seed piece.

Apply fertilizer in bands at both sides of the seed pieces at the time of planting. The best method is to make a 3" deep and 6" wide trench. Place seed pieces in a row in the center and work in the fertilizer 1" to 2" deep at the edge of the trench.

WHAT TO DO AS THEY GROW?

When plants are 5" to 6" high, mound soil from between the rows and hill up the plant, covering the stems with soil. Potatoes exposed to light either in the garden or in storage turn green and become inedible.

A steady supply of moisture is necessary. If the soil dries out after tubers begin to form, a second growth starts when the soil becomes moist. The result is knobby potatoes or multiples. Alternate wet and dry conditions will also cause "hollow heart", or cavities near the center of the potato.

 
Growing Clematis
  • The best time to plant Clematis is
    Spring,
    Summer or early
    Fall in a location that gets 5 to 6 hours of sunlight.Clematis
  • Clematis roots are long and run deep and like it cool and damp, but not soggy. A good idea is to mulch the ground around the base of the Clematis plant to help keep the soil moist and roots cool.
  • Loosen the soil to a depth of 2 feet. Mix this soil with peat and sand, and a handful of lime. Carefully set your Clematis plant in the hole so the crown is 1 inch below the soil level when the plant was in the pot.
  • Stake the plant and of possible wrap a piece of screen loosely around this to prevent animals from breaking or eating off the stem for the first year. The stake should be placed towards the trellis, ect. to train the plant to it's permanent support.
  • Keep your Clematis well watered, do not let it dry out. In years to come always soak well once a week in dry weather. Feed twice a year with a balanced fertilizer (Peters 20-10-20) that will get to the plant quicker.
  • Prune your clematis the first spring after planting, back to 10 - 12''. This is very important to get your plant off to low branching and heavier flowering over the whole Clematis vine.
  • Apply mulch around the base of your Clematis through the winter dormant months.
  • With proper care your Clematis plant will give you much enjoyment for many years!

To get more information, talk to a Beier's Greenhouse employee, or stop by the front counter and pick up this flyer to take home some great info!

 

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Garden Art Blue Corner
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Selected at register upon checkout. While Supplies Last.
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Garden Art  

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20% OFF
Seed Potatoes and Onion Sets  

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