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Happiness reigns! Getting through 2015 was a triumph as we all look forward to fresh starts, smarter decisions and a new definition of 'life balance'. There is renewed focus on the basics, not the frosting, on long-term planning instead of feel-good-now (think the Marshmallow Test), on cooking in and practicality, witness climate effects and the gaps, income and generation.
In fashion, this dictates more "athleisure" wear that is body-centric, more customized cutting and valuing performance and comfort over style. But it also means we lose more visual cues that more highly styled fashion conveyed and we'll have fewer choices in the marketplace. It's the era of uniforms and anonymity, pushing privacy to a level not found in one's social media brand.
In this context, luxury's new measure is shark jumping, as people note who has guarded their original concept, defined worth as quality over price and growth as longevity, rather than real estate or income. Maybe the fashion leaders who do that going forward will be followed again in 2016. P.S. Barney's just bought their old homestead in a return to their roots.
It will be the year in this century that people of all incomes stop chasing and start building; patience is short. For past young centuries, the 15th year proved a major turning point -- in the 16th year the next reality gained serious traction. One hundred years ago, WWI changed the world, the Victorian era was over and the modern era began and now we meet it's limits as we start the next 100.
So in this new pivotal year and month, we begin again.
The decisions we make will define the Century. Give it your best.
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New at CFPD: The Vintage Collection
A new page is up featuring lots of vintage patterns that have special potential. If this feature proves popular, it will be repopulated each month with explanations about why the pattern was collected to begin with and what is its main advantage it from the standpoint of pattern design and fit. In general, patterns from prior eras were designed to work flatteringly with the body, the actual body. If you are tired of having to choose between clothes that stretch or don't "work", time to go back and make the contemporary version.
And . . . the Bias Pullover and the
Four Square Dress are back in stock! Plus, 4 coats are on sale. They are all-season, depending on fabric and do-able in an afternoon, so you can roll with the weird weather.
Transformational Reconstruction 3
by SHINGO SATO
Coming soon this spring, the third book! Shingo goes to new lengths, actually folds, to blow us away again and again. And he continues to tour the world, having just been to India and will prepare soon for a new European tour. Stay tuned . . . Here's one of his new sleeves, yum, yum! Volumes 1 & 2 here. |
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Cutting
The 2nd International Conference for Creative Pattern Cutting, February 24 & 25 at University of Huddersfield, UK. Fashion journalist, Brenda Polen described creative pattern cutting as: "illuminating, inspired, intricate, whimsical, subtle, complex, challenging, eclectc, weird, dramatic and sculptural" (Rotor, 2014 p.14). The second international conference is designed to promote contemporary research into the art of creative pattern cutting and its significance to the fashion industry. The conference provides a platform for pattern cutters, fashion designers, students and educators to explore the direction for creative pattern cutting. ______________________________________________ Rickard LindqvistWe have an emerging star in the pattern design world as Rickard Lindqvist comes out of Sweden with a new PH.D. and some remarkable research into the relationship between the kinetic motion of the body and the cut of garments -- integrated, if you can believe it, into the already complex problems of one-pattern-piece garments. Lucky for us, his paper, Kinetic Garment Construction - Remarks on the Foundations of Pattern Cutting, is online with loads of great diagrams and patterns. Click on the link above with his name, then the paper. Have fun! (I am trying to talk him into putting some patterns online -- wish me luck!)________________________________________________ Half Scale Forum -- Cornell University, New YorkIn a wonderful turn of events, top tier educational people are embracing the half scale concept at Cornell University's Half Scale Forum for Creative Patternmaking, a new 'platform' for the 21st Century's draping breakthroughs (go there, sign up). Susan Atwood is working on the program within the Cornell Institute of Fashion and Fiber Innovation (CIFFI), a collaborative research institute launched in 2013. She is working with Alvanon to body scan participants and create a half scale custom dress form from the scan. This means that you can drape your own body in half scale, print the pattern at 200% and have a custom pattern that fits perfectly. Alvanon already has the most anatomically correct forms out there. She and I were delighted to find each other so more soon on her project. Thank you, thank you, thank you, Susan!! PLUS -- they also run a program called Style Engineers, About Style Engineers, "an NSF-funded partnership between Cornell University and the University of Minnesota, Style Engineers uses hands-on activities to introduce young people to smart clothing and STEM (Science, Technology, Engineering and Mathematics) through their interest in fashion." ___________________________________ Maryhill MuseumAnd more on half scale . . . Steve Grafe at Maryhill Museum, home of the Theatre de la Mode Collection from occupied Paris during WWII and also the Vionnet Identique Collection, both in half or quarter scale. Maryhill is one of the few, maybe the only place where you can see couture originals in miniature in fashion fabrics. Steve is moving ahead in developing their niche in the fashion museum world and has invited me to speak at their Spring Luncheon, April 23 -- can't wait! More on that in the next issue.
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Tailoring
Sten MartinBlog: THOUGHTS OF A TAILORThis fellow is great, an accomplished tailor and writer! A sample: "Do you suffer from wardrobe obesity? Wardrobe obesity is something you get after having bought too many garments that, neither fit your figure, are comfortable to wear or can be combined with clothes you already have. A well known symptom would be the feeling of having nothing to wear, despite having your wardrobe full." The man has a gift. _____________________________________ Men of the Cloth
Men of the Cloth is an inspiring portrait of three Italian master tailors who confront the decline of the apprentice system in the twilight of their career. The film features U.S. tailors Nino Corvato and Joe Centofanti (who both work as traditional custom tailors) and Checchino Fonticoli, who spends his entire career at Brioni, the luxury clothing firm based in Italy. These artisans possess skills honed over the course of a lifetime, and create clothing that's as beautiful inside as it is outside. Filmed over the course of eleven years, Men of the Cloth reveals how their passionate devotion to their Old World craft is akin to a religion.
And now you can order your own DVD copy!! It's great. Since I have been nagging Vicki Vasilopoulos, the film's producer, to bring it west, she called and said she is aiming for the Oregon/SF Bay Area stops in late spring. Hope so -- do not miss! You can reach her here if you would like to suggest specific venues.
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Dressing
Dress the Part, and It's Easier to Walk the WalkBy Carl Richards, New York Times, DEC. 7, 2015 "The way we dress affects the way we feel. And the way we feel affects our ability toget stuff done and influence people. Call it superficial if you want, but researchershave a different name for the link between what we wear and how we feel:"enclothed cognition." This fellow is a financial planner and his essay relates his success to his appearance -- directly. Finally the millennials are getting it -- had to happen. News flash: brain and body are related and 60% - 80% of communication is non-verbal! Multi Multi Purpose
Photo worth a thousand words: Can't attribute, so if you know, let me know. As closets get smaller, multi-purpose clothing is the way to go. F.I.T & The Art Deco Society in DC
In case you missed it last fall and you are a 1920's fan -- what waist-less soul isn't, these days? The era has lots of potential now, so for inspiration check out the elegance of their fashion show in this video, moderated by Tim Gunn (last half of program video):
Show & Tell: From Chanmi Hwang & Ling Zhang at Iowa State, there is this, a technique called Dekoboko from Nakamichi in 2012 (Pattern Magic). It is an ingenious use of 3-D pattern design and digital printing to emphasize the 3-D.
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So, for now . . .
Promise to be real, make the basics perfect, make them last for a long time, taste everything and let your message be your best self.
Sandy
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