 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Vogue's List ~
My "Because"
Controlled hair, makeup & presentation, because now society is more competitive.
Age matching, juvenile looks for juveniles because adults want to do business with adults.
More realistic fit, coverage and function because it has to last longer & will cost more.
Sportswear with couture cut (McCardell) because in this transient society who you look like IS who they think you are.
Textile innovations continue, textures, wearable tech because tech can.
Off-darks, charcoal, grey, brown navy -- no black -- because the offs are more flattering for adults.
Rustic luxury, safari, ranch, because nature rules and the 1% know it too.
20's Influence (no waist) because few have one, young or old.
Gingham, because it's both down home farm (nature rules again) & tech, looks like pixels.
|
|
Shingo Sato's new book is out!
Transformational Reconstruction 2, with 4 DVD's!
This volume takes it right over the top -- that's what happensd when you give a guy a few more years to think about it! There are new shoulders, closures, lapels, pockets, ties coming out of nowhere, collars, swirly things and lots more -- including 2 more DVD's to go with. Details.
The Real Deal
Vogue Spells It Out
On the editorial page of the heavyweight Fall Issue, the compass for the year, is THE ANNUAL LIST, what vibes Anna gets for the new year and this year it's an itemized prescription for grown-ups of all ages -- it's in the brain, you know, not the years. This year's list is designed to sell real clothes, no fooling around with theatrical fantasy. The combination of the flat economy and the aging of America has moved the needle of the peak fashion market from youth, perpetual that is, to adult, where the money is. In 2015 most people have something professional to lose and most get it that a public and a private life are not all one. It's one reason we are seeing a return to the 60's & 70's on the runway, they were the most recent times and circumstances that came with limits.
Don't think it will be less creative. Limits force genuine thinking, not just reacting or trending. Thinking produces breakthroughs. This 15th year in our 21st C. will set the stage for the duration, as it has for previous centuries. Take notes. Plan ahead. Design well.
|
On the Pattern Front! Been busy with election issues here so am late -- apologies! Please vote, otherwise we all have to live with the iffy agendas of small odd groups who win because no one else shows up. Simple -- your feet vote and you get stuck in the shoes.
For some time now I have been experimenting with pleating and how wonderfully it accommodates all the "issues", a la Babette, she of the ever-perfect, ever-ready piece. Pleating at home just requires a stove pipe from the hardware store ($10), an electric teapot, some string and some poly (no nylon). Since the stores rarely have anything else these days, there is a goldmine to pick from out there and it all looks more classy pleated. One wraps the cut piece (pattern enlarged for the spread of the pleats) around the pipe, pin, then wrap string around tightly every 1/4 - 1/2". As you wrap, stop and push the string-wrapped sections down until they "pleat" or compress at one end. Continue until the whole piece is wrapped and compressed into a small clump at the end. Boil the potful of water, hold it over the sink and pour the boiling water over the pipe and fabric. It's instantly permanent and you can take the string off right away. VOILA!! Now, THINK, anything you can wrap and crunch over any odd object and throw hot water on can be a fascinating pleated design. Oh, and remember, the pleats only go one way with the pipe method so decide that upfront.
Some fun things so far -- all poly, all pleated in the studio with the teapot!
 | | Poly chiffon double wrap dress a la Fortuny |
|
 | | Poly sheer drapery fabric in an evening coat |
|
 | | Poly crepe de chine as a shawl |
|
 | | Metallic poly/cotton in a jacket |
|
The Palazzo Pant-Dress Pattern
 | | Palazzo Pant Dress with cap sleeves. |
|
 | | Palazzo Pant Dress with straps -- Coat is the Bias Tier Coat Pattern. |
|
This one might be a shot-in-the-dark but I had to do it. I wanted to wear a long flowing pant that was cut on the bias with a top that had a low back and an elegant bias front -- a dressy jumpsuit, so I could just step in and it would follow the body without clinging. I figured it would be easy to wear to dinner, back porch parties, be comfortable, cover the works, go with lots of shoes, jewelry, wraps and still look classy with graceful movement and a bit of that essential "mystery". Still have to do the instructions so its coming soon. Only 2 pattern pieces!! There will also be just the Bias Palazzo pant, no top. BIG THANKS, Mrs. Clooney!
The Pleated Crescent Jacket Pattern
At this point in the pattern game, I rarely bump into something that refuses to let me get it but this one did (I'll put a warning in the instructions.) It has only one pattern piece but the assembly is counter-intuitive and then when you add pleating, it becomes a tricky right/left, up/down, inside/outside thing. Have coffee first. This one is done in the poly window sheers too. Out next month - stay tuned.
Then there is another COLLECTION SALE (& more to come)!!
I am clearing much of my vintage knitting hardback & paperback books, magazines and instructions -- 3 banker's boxes full, ranging from the early 1900's all the way up. These are heavy so shipping will be pricey -- I am hoping that a local customer will come along. Email me if you are local and
interested and we can discuss price and pick-up/drop-off in the CA Bay Area.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
