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Got Pharaoh Ants? Don't Spray!
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Pharaoh Ant, Monomorium pharaonis, With Sugar Crystals, Photo by Julian Szulc
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In the pest control world we treat all sorts of ant infestations. Of all the species commonly infesting structures occupied by humans, the Pharaoh Ant, Monomorium pharaonis, is probably the most difficult to control. According to Washington State University, this tiny invader is a problem for humans all over the globe. It can be found anywhere human populations are established.
This species is an important public health concern as it is known to carry more than a dozen pathogenic organisms such as Staph, Strep and Salmonella. Because it can transfer these disease organisms it is a serious threat when invades food storage areas or hospitals, more importantly burn units or rooms where I.V.'s are in use.
With workers measuring only 1/16 of an inch, the two-node, honey-colored Pharaoh Ant is one of the smallest of ant species. It is a species that is well adapted to living with humans. On its website the University of Florida notes that the Pharaoh Ant, "doesn't nest outdoors except in southern latitudes." It nests almost exclusively in human habitations. Pharaoh Ants commonly nest underneath potted plants, between books, in stacks of paper, between linens that haven't been disturbed for a protracted period of time, inside the walls of a home or office building and other areas you wouldn't normally expect to find ant colonies nesting. The nest may or may not be near a food source. These ants will travel up to 115 feet from the nest to forage for food, which they bring back to the colony. They will feed on a variety of foods from sugary sweets to their preferred foods, which are proteins & fats.
Pharaoh Ants don't have mating flights like other species, instead mating takes place within the nest and, at an opportune time the colony will split (called budding), with each new colony going its own way and growing in numbers. The colonies of this species typically have multiple queens, so budding may take place at any time of year. It is this budding habit that makes these ants so difficult to control. Attempts to treat for Pharaoh Ants by traditional spray treatments often succeed only in alarming the colonies, causing them to split (or bud) and multiply even faster, resulting in an even worse infestation than prior to treatment. According to researchers at the University of Florida, the preferred method of treatment for this species is to use baits containing boric acid or another, slow-acting, non-repellant insecticide such as hydramethylon or sulfonamide. Insect growth regulators (IGR's) may also be used in baits but control will be much slower since the action used is to cause failure of larval development into adults. Baits should be placed on or very near active ant trails so they will be located quickly, be consumed by the foraging workers and taken back to the colony for its complete elimination.
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SUMMER 2013 NEWS 
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Greetings!
Summer is upon us and pests have arrived in full force. In this newsletter we discuss three of them: Earwigs, Pharaoh Ants and Aphids. Each of them poses its own unique challenges to both homeowner and pest control professional alike. We hope you find these articles informative and helpful. Enjoy.
Sincerely,
Your Pest Control Center Team
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Earwigs: Not the Fearsome Creatures of Folklore
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European Earwig Male, Porficula auricularia, Photo by James K. Lindsey
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Contrary to folklore, earwigs, don't crawl into peoples' ears or bore into their brains. Nor do they attack humans with their forceps although they can pinch you if you pick them up. The forceps, which are curved on the males and straight on the females, can be used to defend the nest, capture prey, probe into cracks & crevices or assist with folding and unfolding their wings, which are carefully folded and hidden under their relatively small elytra or wing covers located on the thorax, just behind the pronotum. Most species or earwigs are capable of flying but rarely do. Their preferred means of escape is to quickly scurry off to safe shelter under a nearby object.
Earwigs are mainly nocturnal and outdoors typically spend daytime hours under garden mulch, leaf litter, boards, rocks and other objects where conditions remain dark, relatively moist and cool. Indoors they will hide under furniture, in cracks, crevices and voids or under baseboard moldings. They naturally live outdoors but sometimes walk into structures when naturally attracted by light shining through an opening. They may come in to feed on insects attracted to the light or enter seeking refuge from temperature extremes or very wet conditions such as heavy rain. Earwigs don't usually reproduce indoors, but may sometimes enter in large enough numbers to give the appearance that they do. Occasional invasions of hundreds or thousands of earwigs have been observed.
Outdoors some earwig species can damage live plant material by feeding on tender seedlings, shoots, leaves and soft fruit, but most feed on harmful pests such as aphids, and dead or decaying insects and vegetation. Indoors they will feed on sweet, greasy or oily foods, other insects or house plants. Typically they don't find enough food and moisture indoors and may die within a few days after invading.
Controlling Earwigs involves more than simply treating
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Female Earwig With Wings Extended, Photo by Sean McCann
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with a chemical. Prevention is really the key. Prevention begins with the elimination of conditions conducive to earwigs. Eliminate all potential hiding places near places you wish to protect like your vegetable garden, fruit trees or your home's foundation. Things like lumber, pieces of cardboard, firewood, compost, leaf litter and thick ground covers. Keep garden mulch at a maximum depth of two inches. Avoid excess watering. Be sure that the area under your deck is dry and free of clutter or debris. Pick up any ripe fruit that has fallen from trees and carefully remove loose bark from tree trunks. Also remove leaves from rain gutters as earwigs may harbor there as well and be sure that your attic and crawl space receive adequate ventilation. Eliminate earwig entryways into your home. Repair gaps around doors and windows, repair door, window attic and crawl space ventilation screens, caulk gaps in siding and cracks in the foundation. You should also be sure to caulk or otherwise fill in any gaps where pipes or wires enter the structure. If these measures fail to adequately address any earwig problems a chemical treatment around the foundation of your home may be in order. If earwigs enter your home and you decide to treat the interior be sure that you use a material specifically registered and labeled for earwigs or general pests indoors.
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Aphids
Have you ever noticed that sticky mess under your roses,
 | | Ant Tending Aphids on an Apple Tree, Photo by Fir0002 |
Crape Myrtles, Hackberry's, Ashes, Maples & other aphid-prone trees and shrubs? This is honeydew. It is secreted by the insects as a byproduct of their feeding, their waste. Interestingly, it is also a food source for many ant species. These ants, which may also invade your home, will tend, transport and protect aphids. Honeydew is an excellent growth medium for black sooty mold and other fungi. These fungi will grow in the honeydew no matter what surface it's on; Plant material, patios, walkways, lawn furniture and automobiles. Sooty Mold is unsightly and can, when present in sufficient quantities on leaves, block sunlight, thus reducing photosynthesis and carbohydrate production. This can have a significant, negative impact on the health of your trees, shrubs and other landscape plants.
Aphids are responsible for other problems as well. These little, sucking insects are directly responsible for the disfiguring damage caused by the enzymes they inject while feeding. Over time, severe aphid infestations have the potential for serious damage, decline and death of important landscape plants.
Pest Control Center's Horticultural Division has cutting-edge methods and products available to effectively control aphids for the entire growing season and prevent the sticky mess they cause. Call us to have our horticultural experts at one of the numbers listed above and schedule a free, no obligation evaluation of your landscape. One of our horticultural experts will design the appropriate program for your lawn or landscape.
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Proper Lawn Watering
 In recent years California has experienced lower than normal rainfall, resulting in our governor declaring a drought. Although, always a concern, water use has, in recent years, become an issue that is front and center. One of the major uses of water is irrigation and of all the plant materials in our landscapes, turf grasses use the most. In order to conserve water, limit fungal diseases and promote the over-all good health of your lawn, the following practices should be incorporated:
1. Deliver 2 to 1 1/2 inches of water to your lawn weekly.
2. Water in the hours just prior to dawn to reduce loss due to excess evaporation, yet allowing the moisture to evaporate from the leaf blades in the early part of the day. This aids in reducing the incidence of fungal disease. Alternating watering days is another way to allow proper drying to discourage disease.
3. Water on alternating days, three days per week: Divide the amount of time it takes to deliver the required amount of water by three. This tells you the amount of time to water each of those three days.
4. Rather than deliver the entire daily amount of water at once, divide your watering up into two or three cycles of your system. This will minimize runoff and maximize absorbtion.
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Center Has a Blog?
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