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L U M E N N E W S
I N S P I R A T I O N * I N F O R M A T I O N * I N V I T A T I O NO C T O B E R 2 0 1 2
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 THE NORTHERN LIGHTS, VIK
A J O U R N E Y T H R O U G H I C E L A N D
"Not all those who wander are lost."
J. R. R. Tolkien
 JOKULSARLON (THE GLACIER LAGOON), SOUTHEAST COAST

YOUNG SHEEP HERDERS, HIGHLANDS
A touch of background ...
After my visit to northern Norway in early September of this year, I flew to Iceland to co-lead a nine day travel workshop with Daniel Bergmann, an acclaimed Icelandic photographer and environmental advocate. The program sold out several months earlier. Ten guests joined us for the journey.
The other-worldly character of this volcanic island and Daniel's unique experience guiding groups and producing imagery were primary draws.
I was fortunate to support the leadership and share in the exploration.
Returning to Iceland held much appeal. I welcomed the chance to re-connect with this world of glaciers, rock, moss, ash, waterfalls, rivers, black sand, and dramatic light.
Our trip began in Iceland's capital, Reykjavik, and rolled through Iceland's highlands before heading to the southeast, central, and west coast.
I worked as a tour guide, driver, photography partner, and fellow traveler. The images and short stories in this note provide a glimpse of our experience. Much to savor.
"Bizarre travel plans are dancing lessons from God."
Kurt Vonnegut
BASALT STACKS, HALSENIFS BEACH NEAR VIK
 HIGHLANDS AT SUNSET NORTH OF SELLFOSS
Sheep, sheep, and more sheep ...
The timing and itinerary for the trip was designed to coincide with Iceland's sheep herding that takes place once a year.
Entire communities unite with horses, four-wheel drive vehicles, and their very excited dogs for three to seven days to pull a large herd sheep together. Later, the sheep are separated by ownership into each family's temporary pen.
As a team, the community members cover large tracts of open countryside in an ancient ritual that includes prodding, herding, searching, sitting, laughter, singing, some drinking, dancing, and celebration, and much hard work. We watched the later stage developments at two of these colorful events. It's a family affair.

SHEEP ROUNDUP, SKAFTHOLTSRETTIR, HIGHLANDS
YOUNG SHEEPHERDERS AFTER A SEVEN DAY CAMPAIGN
At times, the dogs take charge. It's fascinating to watch these hard working animals direct and energize a line of slow moving, anxious sheep.
After watching this spectacle, I reflected on the tall tales the lead dogs likely tell their canine companions around the campfire at night. Laughter.
THE MAGIC OF SHEEPDOGS AT WORK, HIGHLANDS
1953 VEHICLE USED FOR ANNUAL SHEEPHERDING, HIGHLANDS SHEEP IN A TRAFFIC JAM - A FAMILY'S HERD - POST ANNUAL EVENT
FUTURE SHEEPHERDER - REACHING TO FIT IN DAD'S SADDLE
Iceland's coastline is dramatic and, at times, serene.
There are colorful stories and endless riddles in the black rock, sand, and flowing movement of the sea.
It's powerful to just sit quietly and absorb the color, motion, and sound of these scenes.
 BAY NEAR PORBERGUR PORDARSON
RUGGED COASTLINE NEAR HILNAR, WEST ICELAND
"I have not been everywhere, but it's on my list."
Susan Sontag
The Northern Lights
From the start of our trip, each evening, we held hope for a minor miracle in the night sky - the chance to witness the northern lights (the aurora borealis).
This beautiful phenomena is named after the Roman goddess of dawn, Aurora, and the Greek north wind, Boreas. Experiencing this natural display requires a combination of clear sky and a high level of activity in the "magnetosphere." I am told this occurs only in the far north and far south of our planet with strong solar winds and a specific type of magnetic field from earth. In simple terms, the sky lights up with color. Smile.
From all accounts, the northern lights often appear suddenly and may disappear quickly. In certain years, these stunning light displays are seen above Iceland during nights in the month of September. In other years, the northern lights are not visible until deeper in the winter months. So, our odds of catching a glimpse of the aurora borealis were uncertain. We needed luck and some serendipity.
Experiencing the northern lights had been on my bucket list for many years. Friends from Alaska, Iceland, and Norway had shared stories of mesmerizing moments watching these lights dance in the sky. I had read articles. Pictures from magazines and web sites lingered.
For the first five or six nights during our trip, we checked weather reports, northern light projections, and set alarms to wake up and survey the sky well into the night. Nothing. Nothing. Nothing but stars, clouds, and wind.
Then, one night, at about 9 PM during our stay in a small guesthouse near Vik, I heard a scream. Mary, a guest on our trip had noted a strange green band in the northern horizon. At first, she thought it was a cloud. Then, she realized it was the start of the northern lights. Our entire group ran outside. Within minutes, the sky exploded.
 NORTHERN LIGHTS STREAMING FROM THE EASTERN HORIZON, EAST OF VIK
I watched the green, purple, and moss colored bands of light flow through dark blue night. Stars sparkled. Waves of light flowed forward in streams of color. I stood, danced, and wobbled about in a state of wonder.
We grabbed our cameras and fired up the four-wheel drive van. As we drove to a large, dirt airfield nearby, shouts and enthusiastic pointing continued.
Two hours later, we were still captivated. The northern lights were alive - surging, pulsing, swirling through the sky.
Each time I turned my head, a new visual pattern emerged. Green, purple, and red strands of light pulsed and gently spread above the horizon.
NORTHERN LIGHTS BEHIND AN AIRFIELD'S WINDSOCK
As midnight drew near, the group returned to the hotel. Yet, I longed for more and more and more of this immersion. I led a new charge. Four of us went out in a jeep to further explore the night. We drove to an iconic church (the image in the beginning of this newsletter) and stood for hours in the freezing cold breeze as the sky shared it's gifts of color and motion.
Next, we drove to a nearby beach, hiked down to the soft sand, and watched flowing color drizzle up and over the basalt rock and paint the sea and waves with vibrant color (image below).
 NORTHERN LIGHTS OVER THE BASALT STACKS NEAR VIK
I loved the entire night. Magic.
Happy, lucky Jeff ... and gang.
The feel and emotion tied to that night sky will stay with me for a long time.
On to other moments ...
Much like other regions of the world where high winds exist, the clouds are often incredible.  HIGHLANDS NORTH OF SELLFOSS
Despite powerful and relentless weather, there are moments of calm when one feels a sense of serenity and quiet beauty.
 QUIET COASTAL POOL NEAR HOLTSOS
 SUNSET AT JOKULSARLON - THE GLACIER LAGOON
The deep green, orange, red, and black colors and undulating shapes of the landscape remain captivating.
HIGHLANDS CRATER NEAR LANDMANNALAUGAR
Memories from the large glaciers and raw coastline linger.
COASTLINE EAST OF JOKULSARLON
SUNRISE, JOKULSARLON
"If you are not living on the edge, you are taking too much space." Anonymous Proverb
After a few decades, raw volcanic ash is covered with moss and touches of colorful flowers and other vegetation.
HIGHLAND CRATERS NEAR LANDMANNALAUGAR
When I close my eyes, I can still hear the sound of large powerful waves crashing against Iceland's shore and the flow of thousands of smooth rocks rattling up and down the beach.

COASTLINE NEAR HILNAR, WEST ICELAND I love to watch the reflection of the clouds slide across still water.
COASTLINE EAST OF JOKULSARLON
The beaches often reflect the dynamic geological history of the island.  SOUTHEAST COAST
Fishing and a connection to the sea remain central in many Icelander's lives.
PORT REFLECTIONS, STYKKISHOLMUR, WEST ICELAND The colors and textures of rocks and sand on each beach are fascinating - from surreal black sand to smooth colored pebbles and stones.  OCEAN PEBBLES, DRYHOLAOS WEST OF VIK Near the glacier lagoon, icebergs flow into the sea. The remnants of these floating chunks of ice light up in the early morning sun.  SUNRISE JEWELS, JOKULSARLON Horses are abundant. Their gentle spirit and beauty often cause me to pause.

WEST ICELAND 
HORSE'S FLOWING MANE, HIGHLANDS

HORSE'S FLOWING MANE, HIGHLANDS Throughout the highlands, one finds signatures of volcanic activity. Over time, the land and water flow together to form a tapestry of color and shapes.
 HIGHLANDS CRATER NEAR LANDMANNALAUGAR

CANYON WALLS NEAR LANDMANNALAUGAR
If you travel to Reykjavik and time permits, I encourage a walk along the sea. At sunset and sunrise, the views and expressive artwork are quite stunning.
 THE SUN VOYAGER, BY JON GUNNAR ARNASON, REYKJAVIKDuring the trip we used two four-wheel drive vehicles. I drove the rig pictured below. One day we traversed roughly thirty glacial rivers. At times, the water rose above the wheels and up to the top of the hood. Great fun. Much playful learning for a city kid.
WORKSHOP VEHICLE
One of the guests on the trip used his iPhone to take pictures at each site we visited. He set "location services" on. As a result, he had GPS coordinates tagged on his images for all the areas where he shot more formal pictures with his other cameras. He ran the iPhone pictures through iPhoto and then used an integrated GoogleMaps link with the GPS Metadata to show each picture's location within Iceland's map. Cool.
Here's the outcome ... 
ICELAND LOCATIONS
One morning, after a trip to an iconic glacier lagoon, we returned to our guesthouse and found the reflective ocean scene displayed below.
I jumped over a fence and stumbled and splashed through a boggy meadow in my black rubber boots to arrive at the shoreline. Good fun. 
JEFF AT WORK, PORBERGUR PORDARSON
PHOTO: GRANTLY MAILES
I finish with an image I enjoy and a quote from a well-known philosopher ...
"If you reach a fork in the road, take it."
Yogi Berra
THE "BIG DIPPER" WITH PURPLE AND GREEN NORTHERN LIGHTS
Best wishes, Jeff
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About Jeffrey Davis
Jeff is an award winning public television producer, documentary film director, passionate photographer, advocate, nonprofit fundraiser, management consultant, wilderness fan, athlete, and lifelong student. He brings twenty-five years of marketing, general management, and strategy experience with leading commercial and nonprofit organizations to his work. Jeff's photography website is at: www.jeffreydavisphotography.com
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